Bulgaria – Sofia

Sofia, Bulgaria.

Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria with a tremendous history. Founded 7000 years ago by the Serdi tribe, fought over by Greek Kings, Roman Emperors (who named it Serdika), Huns, Byzantines, and 14th century Ottomans. It was then invaded by Russian Soviets in WW2, threw off Communism in 1989 and later joined the EU. Each historical period left its lasting imprint on the city. It houses one of the Iconic buildings of Europe (Alexander Nevsky Cathedral) … and I remember it as the city where I got innocently told off in a Church, so funny. Why? – read on for that info!

All the roads had been perfectly cleared of snow n pavements had been cleared n salted n snow piled onto the side – they even shovelled paths through the park so everyone can still go in it….why can’t we in UK be so organised and efficient when snow comes, instead of being the usual “victim” of the weather – we could learn from these guys!

I looked out my hotel window at the park across the road and was greeted with the snowy scene – beautiful, can’t wait to get out there. So, breakfast was whizzed through as I was rearing to go to see this city. These are a few shots of the snowy sights I saw walking through a winter wonderland  Sofia that uplifted my heart …. so atmospheric!

It is free to enter as the underground caverns also form part of the underpasses. An Amazing way to preserve the foundations, as you go under the modern buildings which are built over the Roman excavations and see another world.

A bit dim inside though and lit more by candlelight than electric lights. Full of brightly painted walls with tons of figures and religious icons in frescoes.

Strange event in the church !

I had the strangest encounter in here today. I was admiring the painted frescoes and noticed some Italians were talking very loudly, laughing n generally not respective of the solemnity – and they were their 50’s ! A Church official marched over to them and sternly bellowed at them and did the big “ssshhhhh” and they stopped.

She then turned and glared at me – me thinking “what have I done wrong?”, marched over and spoke in Bulgarian to me. I did the “sorry, I don’t speak Bulgarian” bit, so she indicated to my left hand and did a motion as if asking me to take it out of my pocket. I did so, surprised at why she was doing this. She at least said “Yes, thank you” in Bulgarian which I did understand and walked away……. Shocked, I thought, have I just been told off for having one hand in my pocket? (it was minus 6 outside and my hand was cold).

After I left the church I just had to google it and to my utter surprise found out that a hand in a pocket in an Orthodox Church is considered insulting. How about that !!!!! I now have a phobia whenever I go anywhere near a church here I remove hands from my pockets even in minus 6 degrees temperatures !

Sofia in the snow!

Sorry, you’re gonna get more snowy pics now – I took so many as I love the snow and just couldn’t resist showing more ! Skip the scroll on this set if you wish, but you will miss some lovely white-out shots.

Within one area, 200 metres square, there are the Banya Bashi Mosque, Sofia Jewish Synagogue, Holy Trinity Romanian Orthodox Church and Roman Catholic Cathedral of Saint Joseph. How about that for living together! It could almost be called “The Religious Quarter” ! It also makes sightseeing easier as I managed to see them all within an hour. Pics inside are of the Mosque and the Synagogue. Unfortunately (as usual) no pics are allowed inside the Orthodox Church, and the Catholic Cathedral was closed !

Unfortunately (as usual) no pics are allowed inside the Orthodox Church, and the Catholic Cathedral was closed !

It also had other craftwork style stores and stalls on other levels and many little cafes and bars that were very busy, dotted around the Halls. If you want a rest for a bite to eat and a drink on your travels this would be an atmospheric and inspiring place to stop.

Inside it is quite small and contains the tomb of St Serafim but it is quite dark and the frescoes are hard to see in the low light. It is set in the small but gorgeous Pushkin Park right next the National Museum of Natural History.

History lesson over – it is actually quite dark inside for such a huge buildings (this seems to be a theme in Sofia’s Orthodox churches). It is also in need of repairs in several areas internally. Unfortunately – again- no pics allowed of the interior, so you just have to take my word that it is massive inside.

Street Market

An area near the Cathedral has a daily bric-a-brac Market and was selling all sorts of curiosities – Soviets army fur hats, Russian dolls, old watches, religious icons, old books and relics of Soviet days, – really interesting. Despite the snow and cold the vendors had cleared pathways and made access easy and kept themselves warm with blankets and flasks of hot drinks – these hardy guys know how to deal with snow and cold weather!

It has a huge modern extension with a courtyard with sculptures and was remarkably quiet – but then I suppose it’s Winter and it’s off-peak for tourists. The actual displays are very eclectic from 17th Century to present day.

Don’t wanna bore the non-arty readers, I totally understand art galleries and museums are not some people’s cup of tea, so have put a selection of my favourite pieces in the scroll through displays below, for you to look at or give it a miss.

In the 6th-century a Byzantine church with a largely brick exterior/interior was constructed. The city of Sofia gained its name from the church (St Sofia) in the 14th Century. It was converted to a Mosque in the 16th Century, abandoned after an earthquake damaged it in the 19th Century and restored in the 20th Century….quite a history ! The crypt underneath is fascinating as you walk on raised walkways over the mosaic floors and foundations and can peer into burial tombs and remnants of rooms.

Various civic buildings as I wandered around the streets of Sofia.

No particular order, but I just had to include these to show the variety and majesty of so many buildings here.