Malaysia – Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

This city hosts the tallest twin towers in the world (…..the tallest single tower lies elsewhere). As a building it is a mere 8th tallest now. This vibrant city holds its colonial and historical past, as show-pieces to any visitor. It reminded me a lot of nearby Singapore, possibly because it shared a somewhat similar past over the last 200 years and like Singapore, reflects a cosmopolitan mixture of cultures and beliefs. A must see is the Petronas twin tower complex with its scary sky bridge, scary for me as I’m not always good with heights but will never miss getting to the top of any tall building as a challenge. It has not one but two fabulous Mosques (old and new), beautiful colonial buildings, magnificent parks – there is a stunning one next to the twin towers. In town is the most magnificent semi open-air artisan market separated into Chinese, Malay, and Indian sectors. It is here that I had the best watermelon and lime iced fruit smoothie I have ever tasted, made in front of me from fresh.

I visited Kuala Lumpur (KL) in Malaysia during my month-long tour of South East Asia.

On this trip I also spent time in Singapore, Indonesia, Brunei, Philippines, Vietnam, and Cambodia. It was an amazing time of differing cultures, sights, sounds and smells and remains my most magical long-stay venture so far.

Read how you can combine several of these countries into a easy tour and get the most of the region while there.

Click below for my trip and reviews of these places.

Singapore

Indonesia: Bali

Indonesia; Jakarta

Brunei: Bandar Seri Begawan

Philippines: Manila

Vietnam: Ho Chi Min City

Vietnam: My To and Ben Tri

Vietnam: HCMC to PPen by bus

Cambodia: Phnom Pen

Cambodia: Phnom Penh to Siem Reap by Bus

Cambodia: Siem Reap

Malaysia: KL to S’pore by train

I flew into Kuala Lumpur from Siem Reap, having seen the famous Angkor Wat there and indulged in a couple pf Spa days of rest and relaxation.

I was now nearing the last few day of my month long trip through S E Asia and although I had rested up somewhat in Siem Reap, I was definitely feeling the effects of exhaustingly long, but so rewarding, sightseeing days for the past 26 days.

Now, I was here in KL and the thought of flying back home was somewhat enticing – to get the rest and plan further – but also sad as I had genuinely loved my travel round this part of the world.

I had made it so far with no accidents (touch wood), no arrests, no illness, no robberies/attacks, no setbacks (apart from that rerouted Jakarta to Brunei flight that just meant a different route and arriving a few hours later).

From KL, there was just my much anticipated train journey thought the (hoped for) jungle to spend one day in Singapore where I started this trip, to catch my flight home.

KL airport to Sentral in KL

Ok, so you have arrived in KL and need to get to your hotel.

Depending where your hotel is situated may influence your mode of transport, but beware that there are quite big price differences between them all.

Check below for transport info

•  Bus – takes around an hour, goes to Sentral KL station, leaves every 30 mins, costs about £2, air con and modern coaches, get your ticket on the ground floor at KLIA (Kuala Lumpur International Airport) at Airport Coaches desk. If you arrive at KLIA terminal 2 you will have to catch the Skybus to KLIA T1, takes about 15 mins longer for the same price but leaves every hour. This is the cheapest but longest duration option.
•  KLIA Express Train – leaves KLIA1 and KLIA2 every 15 mins, costs around £10, takes around 30 mins, modern air con trains. Goes to Sentral KL station. This the fastest option and medium prices
•  KLIA Transit Train – this is a train passing through KLIA going onward to KL and beyond. Goes to Sentral KL station. Costs around £10, stops at 3 stations on the way, taking around 40 mins. modern, air con intercity style train. Same price as the Express but takes longer.
•  Airport booked Taxi – Book one inside the airport, they give you a voucher which you give to the driver outside, costs around £15 for budget cars.  Modern and comfy. More expensive than the first 3 methods of transport described if you are travelling solo. It will be cheaper if you are 2 or more or need to get to an obscure area of the city. Depending on traffic takes 40-60 mins
•  Regular taxi – these are available for hailing only outside. They are the most expensive as they will try to trick and charge you the most possible and the driving and safety is less assured. Why use them when the other great methods are available. Takes about 60 mins. This is the most expensive and most time consuming.
•  Info on all the above click here for KLIA transport info guide 

KL Travel Pass

If you are in town for 2 days (as I was) I found the KL Travel Pass invaluable.

I knew I would be using public transport to get around town (metro rail public transport is very good, modern and well connected).  For 120 RM – about £22, I could use all the Metro and rail trains in the city.

I checked and all the places I wanted to see, including my hotel and they were all near MRT or LRT train stations so it was ideal.

The return trips on KL Express train would be £20 alone and the pass includes two return trips on the KL Express. So my city travel cost would be a paltry £2  … bargain!

You can buy the ticket for less if you need only one trip to or from KLIA and even top it up like a normal travel pass if you are staying longer or need to travel outside the limits of the card.

Click here for link to KL Travel Pass

Where I stayed in Kuala Lumpur

I did a lot of research for hotels in KL and to be honest its fairly easy to say that as long as you are near a train/Metro link you can easily get around town.

Trains are modern, air conditioned, clean, safe and convenient. I used them extensively and never had an issue with them. In fact I would say that the system is one of the best I have used in the world.

So I chose a hotel that was offering an incredibly good rate for a 5 star hotel. Cheaper than many 4 star places. Ok, it was a little out of the centre and looked a little dated but I was prepared for that. The Metro was across the road and I was getting not only a great rate but my Gold Plus status with Expedia meant that I got breakfast for free and a room upgrade.

Seri Pacific Hotel Kuala Lumpur

Arrival here was easy as I took the express train from the airport to KL Sentral station and changed onto a Metro line using my KL Travel Pass that I had bought at the airport. It was indeed literally across the road from the Metro station, next to a big Mall and in a very busy area both pedestrian and traffic-wise.

The initial reception was ok but there was a little queue to get served. Check in was easy except that they did not know about my Expedia Gold status and thus did not offer my upgrade or complimentary breakfast. That was sorted out when I got Expedia to contact them to remind them what they should do.

By the evening when I returned it had been arranged and the room upgrade, whilst without the view of the Petronas Towers I originally had, was much bigger and more luxurious. I wasn’t bothered about the view as I was going up the Towers the next day anyhow.

Room was comfy, spacious, huge bathroom, great wifi  and air con so no issues, just wish they were more informed so I didn’t have to haggle with them at check-in.

The only downside was that they were offering so many cheap dining deals in the main restaurant to obviously attract non-residents in that it became uncomfortable. Families with screaming kids running around making it feel more like a MacDonalds.

There were others that had brought in entire generations of families at one table that were not used to high class eateries, ie shouting and dressed in their village working clothes it felt more like a drive in but with sumptuous surroundings.

Food was good but the atmosphere more like a full canteen at times, They had achieved their goal of getting more people but at the cost of the quality of atmosphere and peace. Food however was very good but service slow and erratic.

I had to remember that I was paying about half the price of the next cheapest 5 Star KL hotel so I couldn’t grumble as I was very happy with the price and my room was fab.

A bit of KL history

As always with me, let’s get some facts and figures to orientate us around this city of Kuala Lumpur before I go trekking through the streets.

It is the capital and biggest city in Malaysia with a population of over 7 million in its greater urban district.

It is among the fastest growing metropolitan regions in Southeast Asia, in both population and economic development. The standard of living is remarkably high and although, like most cities around the world, it has its poorer areas there are a lot of affluent and upwardly mobile areas in the city too.

KL, as its affectionately called, has an extensive range of public transport networks, such as Mass Rapid Transit (MRT), Light Metro (LRT), monorail, commuter rail (KTM), public buses, and an airport rail link.

Kuala Lumpur is one of the leading cities in the world for tourism and shopping, being the 10th most-visited city in the world in 2017. It houses three of the world’s 10 largest shopping malls. It ranks second, after Singapore, as the most liveable city in S E Asia.

So where does KL get its name from.

Well, Kuala Lumpur means “muddy confluence” in Malay. Kuala (confluence) is the point where two rivers join together and Lumpur means “mud”…. hence “muddy confluence”. Strange name but there you have it.

The original centre of the city lies where the Gombak and Klang Rivers meet. The Jamek Mosque sits there presently as the historic centre of the city.

As cities go it is relatively new. Chinese and Indonesian miners lived nearby in the 1700s. The town grew up from a hamlet to a town in 1857 as the final river drop off point for supplies to local miners.

The city was flooded and burnt down many times but under a local chief and a British govt official was turned into a thriving trading town and incorporated into the Federated Malay States. It incorporated brick buildings, wide avenues and improved sanitation and railway links.  The rubber trade expanded its fortunes into a bustling city of 20,000 by 1890.  It was occupied by the Japanese in WW2 and like its neighbours suffered atrocities and mass murders at their hands.

After the war, elections came in 1952, then the declaration of independence from Great Britain in 1957. It has grown rapidly since and is now one of the most important cities in the region. History lesson over! Now lets go explore.

My first day here and I was excited to get to THE attraction that this city is famous for –

The Petronas Twin Towers

These had been on my must see list since they were built, but not just because at one time they were the tallest building in the world. They overtook the Willis building in Chicago in 1998 (which was the tallest for the previous 25 years). They then reigned supreme until 2004 when they were surpassed by Taipei 101, in Taiwan.

Having been the tallest in the world in its day, it is currently the 8th tallest building. Just goes to show how buildings have been successively overtaken in only a few years, each having just a few years of reign!

I had been to the top of the Willis Building in Chicago (click here for link) and the year after my KL blog entry, I was to stand at the top of the building that pipped the Petronas Towers – the Taipei 101, (click here for link). 

So a few facts before we see the pics and travel up the towers. 

• It is 451.9 metres tall,
• It’s the tallest structure in Malaysia
• It has 88 storeys
• It’s the 8th tallest building in the world
• It reigned as tallest building in the world, for 6 years from 1998 to 2004. 
• It is still the tallest TWIN tower building in the world.
• It has the world’s highest skybridge that connects the twin towers, 170 metres up in the air. 
• It took 2 years to build from scratch
• It has the world’s deepest foundations 
• On 1 Sept 2009, French urban climber Alain Robert, using only his bare hands, feet and no safety devices, scaled to the top of Tower Two in 2 hours

I had read that tickets are restricted to about 1,000 per day to go up to the observation deck. Many people had arrived only to be told the day’s tickets had all been sold out. I cleverly ordered my tickets online in advance just to make sure I could get in.

No point in travelling all this way just to be told it was full and I was on a limited time schedule. It paid off as there was a queue for tickets and I skipped the line and went in straight away. The ticket is timed so ensure what time on your day you want to go up and buy online in advance!

The tower’s skybridge

The lifts actually take you first to the skybridge on the 41st floor. No lift goes all the way up in one go so you get off here, see the views, walk the bridge then re-board a different lift to the top. Yep, my ears popped on the way up – a good sign to me that we are going high!

The bridge itself is not connected, as in sealed to the towers. It is designed to slide slightly as the towers sway slightly in high winds and also give a bit of stabilisation to the twin towers. It also acts as an emergency exit if only one tower needs to be evacuated.

The views were magnificent and for someone like me with vertigo, a bit nerve inducing to walk across the void between the towers. It’s a weird feeling to see two enormous towers on either side of you and you are standing in mid air between them. I was so glad the bridge had a handrail for comfort to hold onto as I walked across it !

We now re-boarded a fast lift, yep more popping of ears, to reach the 86th of the 88 storey building.

View from the top

Here is the big display area of the model of the tower and surrounding area. It shows the future towers which were being built nearby and we could see their upward progression through the windows.

It also gave an idea of the contents of the 16 hectare park below with dancing fountains, kid’s pool, jogging tracks, shady walks through trees and greenery and the statues that abounded there.

To be able to see across to the horizon from this height was amazing – I was so caught up in the views that I almost forgot my vertigo. We were looking across to the other tower and could almost see the people moving around in it.

The view was a bit hazy due to the bright sun and KL’s somewhat car fume polluted atmosphere, but it certainly gave a great idea of the lay of the land.

We were now looking down on the skyscrapers that I had been straining my eyes to see the tops of at ground level. It was not crowded at the top and so I could move freely around and get all the shots from the windows that I wanted. I could even see across to the sights that I had planned to visit later in the city.

The view of the top of the opposite twin tower was surreal. This close up it looked like some thing from a 1930 Mega city film of the look of the future. The spiny columns and semi Darlek like slots for windows, with an oversized spire on the top, didn’t seem to come from the 21st Century.

KLCC District

So I mentioned that the area around the Twin Petronas Towers was called KLCC and a huge 16 hectares site it is too,

The Suria Shopping Mall inside is a shopaholic’s delight. Full of high end stores and beautiful eateries and actually quite busy most of the time. It has 5 storeys of retail therapy and when I was there was celebrating a festival. Colourful displays, brightly lit up animated animals and signage was everywhere adding to the glamour of the place.

It was refreshing to walk through the air conditioned walkways and grab a coffee at a nearby coffee shop and relax for a moment.

The areas around the towers still have buildings being added to it. It is not only a tower complex but also has an adjoining leisure park, a Philharmonic Hall and is hone to one of the biggest shopping malls in Malaysia at ground level. The area it sits in is called KLCC for short (Kuala Lumpur City Centre) and boy, is it some centre. It would be great to go back when it is all finished and see the other towers.

KLCC lake area

Outside the plaza reminded me much of the open air plaza in front of the Burj Khalifa Tower in Dubai. It had a similar huge water pond with dancing fountains that sprayed water in various shapes into the air in a carefully choreographed dancing water routine.

Kiddies paddled in a nearby pool and people sat on the nearby steps admiring the view and taking in the sunshine and the water display.

KLCC Gardens

The gardens and lake that nestled beside stylish residential blocks took away the feeling of being in a major capital.

I wandered through areas of lush semi forest, ancient swirling rooted trees, slender bright red barked trees with fanlike green canopies. There was even a big modern sculpture of a silver whale leaping from the waters of the lake as I walked over a slender bridge.

No traffic here, except passing cyclists and joggers and families enjoying a stroll through what was a relaxing and stylishly designed green getaway.

Back out of the idyllic walkways and water views I stepped back into the modern skyscraper area again, previously hidden by the tall trees.

The skyline reminded me of a smaller version of the waterfront in Singapore where I started this trip and would be seeing again in a few days. These buildings were so tall and slender they reminded me of Obelisks in the sky.

One complex had again, twin buildings connected by a skybridge (copy cats !) but was draped entirely in foliage as a modern-day eco building, nurturing nature from the heights – a wondrous but welcome sight indeed.

Another building had striped black and brown marble coating like a layered cake , towering high in a section of spurting fountains and trough waterways resembling the gardens of the Alhambra in Granada.

I felt the area had been magnificently put together and arranged, modern mega buildings mixing with playful fountains and acres of jungle like foliage with lakeside walkways. I made a note to myself to find out how much an apartment would cost in the residential blocks that overlooked this area!

To get to my next port of call from here meant a short Metro ride. The Petronas Towers and KLCC are kinda on their own in the city and a about 25 mins walk from any other major attraction. I also wanted to make the most of my pre-paid KL pass and the free transport.

So after the walk around the park in the heat and sun of a fabulous day, I was ready for some air conditioned comfort on their amazingly modern Metro system.

Masjid Jamek Kuala Lumpur

So the translation of Kuala Lumpur in English is “Muddy Confluence” – or where two muddy water rivers meet. This meeting point (where the Klang and Gombak Rivers join) is still here today, although having gone through much reparation in the centre of the city it appears more like the fork in two wide canals.

The present Jamek Mosque (or Friday Mosque as it is locally known), was built in 1909 and at first sight surprised me. Its style reminded me of those London Victorian/Edwardian houses that have an Indian design influence. The arches are Mughal in appearance but its white and pinkish/brown brickwork looks very English.

The domes were definitely Indian/Asian, almost Taj mahal-like but the Minarets and columns had a British Colonial feel to them. It was quite unlike anything I had seen, or indeed expected to see in S E Asia and I really could not make out why it was in this unique style.

My research afterwards revealed why. It was built by a British architect with contributions from The British Colonial Govt of the day. He built it in the Mughal style but used brick extensively rather than marble or stone (maybe why it looked so British to me!).

I also found out that bricks were actually used as a normal part of construction here, so it was not a purely British influence in this. In fact one area of KL held so many brick factories it was called Brickfields and still exists today with that name, as an affluent area.

The Mosque’s buildings are really low rise, no more than three storeys high but they are surrounded on almost all sides by skyscrapers. They dwarf this heritage building and as most of the surrounding buildings are 80s in design, they do not afford an appreciative backdrop.

Walking up to the building, it is clear that the mosque is fairly small despite it being the biggest Mosque in KL in its day, holding around 1,000 worshippers.

The actual original small interior prayer hall is enclosed and quite plain in design with high windows for light.

The main payer hall (which was built as an extension afterwards) is actually opened to the elements and you can see straight through it from one end out to the buildings on the other side. Different again to any Mosque I had seen elsewhere.

As I entered I was greeted by a well dressed young man who welcomed me into the Mosque.

He said he was the official guide for the Mosque and was there for any information to any visitors and asked if I had any questions. I immediately, from so many times in recent past experience, assumed this was a trick to get me to pay for a guide. He however politely accepted that I had no questions and did not persevere, which I was surprised at.

I saw him do the same to several other who entered, who did have some questions but he wanted no tip or payment for answering and explained he was there to encourage questions on Islam and the building.

After seeing this several times I did approach him and asked some questions that intrigued me about the design and the books on show, He answered everything politely, informatively and I actually had a great chat with him.

He did not want any payment, which I found very endearing, as he said it was his pleasure to help in the Mosque. Another example I found of generosity and grace in places I travelled round the world.

On the way out I did drop an offering into the discreetly placed donations box as a thank you to him however as I liked this approach.

On the way home later in the eve the train went past the Jamek Mosque. From the carriage I was able to look down and capture its domes again, against the darkening sky and surrounding buildings, in what I felt was a colourful display of light and religion.

Sultan Abdul Samad Building, Kuala Lumpur

These were the original offices of the Colonial British, ruling during the time they were built.

They were finished in 1897 and their style, having a similar style to the Masjid Jamek built 11 years later are something unique in KL. Just like the Masjid Jamek they have that “blood and bandages” design – a term used to describe the walls being in two -tone stripes of colours with bordered arches.

Its style is a mixture of Moghul Indian, Moorish and Arabic. It was quite the surprise as nothing around it still exists in this design.

The beige coloured brickwork, cream stucco topped archways with all three towers topped by a copper-clad onion dome are a photographer’s delight. It looked more palace-like than office-like and really stands out against the near empty opposite Square.

The original opening commemoration plaque in carved stone is still there.

It is now a heritage building and was renovated in 2012 to maintain its glory. Today there are just a couple of minor Govt ministries in there, the law Courts having moved out many years ago. Entry is not permitted unless on business.

For me it is one of the most unique and fascinating colonial building in S E Asia. The curving external staircases, the many curved arches, the tall clock tower and those onion domes are just captivating.

Dataran Merdeka / Merdeka Square

Or to give it its full translated name “Independence Square”

So, this area has quite the old British colonial past history. The whole area was bought by the British to be used for a Police station and training grounds with the next door Govt Offices overlooking it.

Later the British rulers set up, in 1884, a club for themselves (The Selangor Club) – still there on the opposite side of the square and still rather plush and private it is too.

They built a church – St Mary’s – on another side (it’s still there) and to top the Britishness of it all, they turned the training ground into a cricket club grounds for the Selangor Club members. The city council did not get this land back from them till 1987.

This set up all changed in 1957 when Malaysia gained its independence from the British and raised their flag here. There is now a 95 metre tall flagpole (one of the tallest in the world) flying the Malaysian flag where the original was located.

The side of the Square that hosts the gigantic flagpole also houses the Kuala Lumpur City Gallery, telling the history of KL with the “I love KL” sign displayed prominently outside.

Here are several colonial style buildings, one an ex Bank, making a picturesque backdrop to the flagpole.

Central Market area Kuala Lumpur

I next wanted to get to the Central Market Area, just a 5 mins stroll away. I crossed the road from the Kuala City Gallery, took the road between the Sultan Building and the next door Textile Museum and crossed the Klang River.

If you want a viewpoint down to the Masjid Jamek Mosque there is one on the bridge. However, I found this a little far for viewing so got up closer along the river walkway for my shots.

The street down to the market is the first left after crossing the bridge. There are some interesting pastel coloured 1930 art deco buildings along this road and you will eventually arrive at the entrance, a covered walkway between buildings.

You cant miss it, as it displays a huge elliptical colourful plaque at its roofline. The roof is actually an open sided glass roof supported from the ground on huge sloping pillars. Surreal but something similar to what I had seen in Singapore’s Chinatown a few weeks earlier.

The biggest part of the market is housed inside a massive blue pastel 1930 art deco single storey building.

To my somewhat, perhaps warped mind, the symbol looked like the one the characters from Star Trek wear on their uniforms ! Weird I know but thats the way I think!

The shops below were creatively decorated and painted in pastels colours along with the usual bright advertising but it was enticing. To the right was a huge indoor market area but these were small craft shops in their hundreds selling many homewares and souvenirs.

So many had artisan wares of textiles, home decorations and hardware. There were a few eateries but mostly they were craft shops and some looking quite exclusive in their styling. Sections were called “Little India” or “Chinatown” and were dominated by artworks and foods from these regions.

It was magical to stroll among these stalls and see what was on offer. I never got hassled to buy, which made it even more enticing to continue my retail therapy!

I now needed refreshment but the coffee shops were not evident around here, so I was deflated. Then I walked by a magnificent smoothie bar that had the biggest list of freshly made smoothies and ice drinks I had ever seen. I read through its list displayed prominently on the wall and the combinations were amazing.

Never had I seen so many fruits and mixes – some if the fruits I had never even seen before.

I needed a cooling drink so I went up to the large open counter front and asked for one that sounds scrummy – a watermelon, lime and papaya juice frozen smoothie. The guy behind the counter selected each fruit fresh from the enormous chilled counter area in front of me. He sliced and peeled them, added juice and ice and whizzed them up in a blender while I watched. Very clean and hygienic, I’m a stickler for food hygiene. It was dispensed into a cup, a straw added and voila, my smoothie.

It was honestly the best one I had ever tasted. If you get the change go here. It’s called Juiceee – yes with three e’s. It is on the main outdoor walkway area under the huge canopy. Look for the signage that I show here and it can’t be missed.

My next place to visit was again about 10 mins walk away. However getting there was going to prove to be not so easy. Between me and the Mosque stood a wide highway with no visible bridges or underpasses from where I was standing.

I eventually did a circuitous route using small side roads, overpasses and underpasses that left me baffled as to where I was going but I eventually arrived at the back entrance to the Mosque. I made my way round the building via the well maintained gardens and from a walkway that gave me a vista towards the nearby Old main Railway station and buildings.

Unfortunately, I arrived at a time when it was closed to visitors, worshippers only allowed in at the mo’ – memo to self – ensure you check opening times next time! It would be back open in an hour so where would I go.

I knew that the Majestic Hotel was nearby and this hotel had a reputation for old colonial splendour and grace ….. I headed towards it and caught some other landmarks on the way back.

Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur

The entrance was off a wide avenue and I could see some immaculate gardens in front and a long covered walkway to the entrance. I could do with my daily coffee and cake fix and now was about the right time for it.

Horror of horrors, I realised that I was in shorts and t-shirt and looking a bit bedraggled from the heat and traipsing around ….. would they refuse me entrance for being inappropriately dressed?

I cautiously walked towards the entrance and saw a costumed concierge in full Indian regalia turning towards me. I composed myself in my best confident – self as if I knew where I was going – and thought I could always pretend I was staying there.

He nodded at me and bid me a good day ….. so far so good … ! I walked further, gave him a cheery hello and he held the door open for me. WOW, no problem. I walked in and along a wide outdoor corridor that lead to a sumptuous olde worlde colonial style reception area and lobby.

My first sight was staff in tails and bow ties and exceptionally well groomed. Walking out were well healed guests and a few women in expensive-looking evening wear. I felt ashamedly dowdy and out-of-place.

I walked towards the extensive open plan lobby with comfy chairs and tables and saw the lobby café. Here were people enjoying afternoon tea and cocktails as it was happy hour – all well dressed and bejewelled.

I sat down and immediately a white suited elegant waiter with bow tie and cummerbund who could have been out of a 1930’s movie approached me and asked me what he could get me.

Relieved that I was not being asked why I was there I relaxed. He was charming and did not even blink an eye at my shorts and trainers and scruffy t-shirt. I ordered coffee and cake from the menu he gave me.

He came back with a silver tray and placed the items before me. I had coffee from a china pot, china cup and saucers with a silver spoon. silver sugar tongs in a china bowl. linen napkin ….. impressive. The surroundings were light coloured wooden panels, velvet and rattan chairs, wooden shutters, potted palms and pictures of old KL. It was looking so sumptuous and atmospheric.

Here’s my order, banana and toffee cake with white coffee …. absolutely yummy !

Now refreshed and cooled down I could relax for the next hour or so and admire my surroundings and watch the comings and goings of this opulent Heritage Hotel.

Eventually, my time was up and I paid my bill and exited the hotel, saying thank you and goodbye to the cheery doorman that greeted me upon my arrival.

Old Kuala Lumpur Railway station

I walked back up the road I came down and took some shots of an iconic building that was now past its former grand self but architecturally unique – the old KL central train station.

This used to be one of Kuala Lumpur’s most photographed buildings but since the new bigger modern Sentral Station was built it serves only a few trains and has been left somewhat neglected.

Built in 1910 in the “Neo-Moorish/Mughal/Indo-Saracenic style”, quite a mouthful for a name for a building style. I call it Indian Raj style for simplicity but any name given to its style fails to convey its unique structure. The Masjid Mosque and Sultan Building were built in similar styles at around the same time.

The façade of the station is completely plastered, as opposed to buildings of similar styles that opt for exposed brickwork, and striped brickwork as we have seen in the other mentioned buildings.

Standing opposite is another locally inspired design of a building – the present Malay Railways HQ. On the opposite side of the road stands a grand 1930′ art deco building facing the Majestic Hotel. Quite an architectural gem of an area of Kuala Lumpur.

The last place to visit on my Kuala Lumpur tour of the city was now ahead of me as I walked away from the old station area.

National Mosque of Malaysia Kuala Lumpur

It took me a while to get the lay of this Mosque as its design was quite unlike the dozens of others I had visited on my world travels.

Outside was a stall loaning shawls and robes to those inappropriately dressed so they could enter, I asked if I needed one as I was wearing long shorts. Usually most Mosques say that is ok. A couple of Mosques have preferred me to wear a long covering robe or waist wrap around and this one did too.

The wrap around was actually very colourful and as so many others were also wearing them we all looked rather delightful in our various outfits wandering about.

As I approached the front entrance it seemed like the entrance to a Shopping Precinct or modern Museum. I say this because the front had huge concrete white awnings and long wide walkways with no initial view of the actual Prayer Hall.

The Mosque was completed in 1965 and built as a confirmation of its Independence in 1957. Its style is classically late 60’s

You have to climb a few dozen stairs to get to the Mosque level and then walk through marbled floor raised walkways with gardens below you, with views across fountains and the nearby landscape. Quite interesting and different but less atmospheric than the 500 year old other Mosques I have visited.

As I walked along the passageways it was not at first obvious which way to go as there were pathways all around the building. I spied a group of purple robed women ahead who seemed to know where to go, so started to follow them at a distance.

I eventually arrived at what seemed like an open hall. High slender columns supported the roof and lattice-work blocks formed the exterior walls, allowing air and a cool breeze to pass through the area.

This was clearly the usual overspill area for the Prayer Hall nearby and several people were using it as a meeting/rest point area.

The walls, ceiling and columns were all painted white and felt very 80’s – rather plain and austere but the patterned open blocks on the walls gave it a secluded and more sombre atmosphere.

The Prayer Hall itself was in a circular layout with light shining in through the stained glass triangular windows that were set into the reef eaves. The roof was of a 16-pointed star with angular roof pitches coming down from the centre. This pattern was just as evident inside the Mosque just as it was outside.

However, outside, the roof was painted in shades of azure and the ceiling inside was plain – a reversal of what I usually encounter in a Mosque.

The separate 73 metre tall minaret was slender and square rather than round and the blue sky was setting it off beautifully for a camera shot.

Heroes’ Mausoleum

In the grounds to one side, at the end of one of the walkways is a 7-pointed star concrete roofed pavilion. It’s called the Heroes’ Mausoleum and its sides are open air. The roof covers an area of the 12 tombs of past Malaysian leaders. Set in marble and in green lush gardens it is very peaceful and sombre.

The nearby gardens contain further tombs set among beautifully maintained and clipped shrubs and hedges.

My sightseeing in Kuala Lumpur had now come to an end and I was exhausted after a full day in the neat and sun. There was however one thing left that I wanted to see and try …. and it would conveniently transport me back to my hotel.

Kuala Lumpur has a monorail. It is only one line, but fairly long and it’s quite different to the usual Metro of the city. This one is completely above ground and it reminded me of the one I rode on in Seattle USA, many years beforehand.

I just had to do it and experience the smooth ride and the ability to see the skyscrapers and buildings as we passed by them at second floor level.

I saw the Petronas Towers nearby as we sailed through the city and saw the traffic below us struggling to make headway.

It’s modern, clean and inexpensive and was just a “must do” for me. The only issue I had now was that the mosquito bites that I had gotten a few days earlier in Siem Reap Cambodia were now getting red and painful.

The mozzie spray I used had not been that effective clearly but I was so glad for the anti-malaria tablets I had taken and continued to take during my trip!

Kuala Lumpur was now definitely done and dusted.

There are a few other places I would have liked to see ie the Batu Caves but on this trip there was not enough time to do everything. There is plenty of time for a second visit one day and I felt I had covered most bases with this trip.

The city was remarkably modern, clean, tidy and organised for me. A kind of mini Singapore in many ways but with a stronger Muslim element. I was expecting a less affluent and more rough round the edges city, so Kuala Lumpur surprised me pleasantly.

I really, really loved the old colonial buildings and the sense of history they portray (for good or bad!).

I was surprised at the number of skyscrapers, especially in the KLCC/Petronas Towers area and the amount of new build going on – again similar to Singapore.

I loved the eclectic mix of Chinese, Malay and Indian – less obvious than Singapore but definitely there in the mix. Everyone I encountered here was friendly and polite and it was one of the safest feeling cities I have been to in the world.

Would love to spend a few months living here and use Kuala Lumpur as a base to get to know the other cities and areas of this fascinating country.

Bye KL, until next time !

Oct 2017