Latvia – Riga

My tour around the Baltic States 

My trip to Riga, Latvia was part of my 10 day trip to visit the three capitals of the Baltic States.

I flew into Tallinn, Estonia, for a 3 day stay in the capital of Estonia. Click here for my post on Tallinn.

From here I then took the Lux bus to Riga, Latvia, Click here for my post on my Tallinn to Riga LuxExpress bus experience

Riga, the capital of Latvia was another marvellous stay of three days. Read all about this fascinating city in this post.

From Riga I then travelled onwards, again by Lux bus to Vilnius in Lithuania. Click here for the Lux Express Riga to Vilnius post.

I stayed in Vilnius, the small but enchanting capital of Lithuania for 3 memorable days. Click here for my post on Vilnius.

At the end of this wonderful ten day trip I flew from Vilnius back to the UK.

A little history on Riga, Latvia

So, let’s get a bit about this city’s past, to understand its present.

Riga, the capital of Latvia has a population of around 630,000. Not a huge amount, even though this makes it the biggest city in the 3 Balkan States on my tour. It however attracts around 1.5 million visitors every year.

Like the city I had just come from, Tallinn, it has a UNESCO world Heritage “Old Town” centre and renown for its heritage buildings and architecture.

It certainly does not feel like a capital, in the sense of tall skyscrapers, huge Palaces or having a world-famous Parliament building. It is a low-rise, but majestic and grand city steeped in history and quaint old buildings that are gloriously restored.

Do I prefer Riga, as a capital, to more famous cities such as Paris or Washington DC? Yep, I do. It captivated me in its small but huge charm and character.

So where does it all begin?

Where does its name, Riga,  come from?

Well, there are many claims, as always. The most widely accepted one is a corruption of the word “Rijas”, a local word for the granary buildings that were built in abundance on its river bank.

Other derivations are from a nearby river with a similar name. Another is from a similar Latin word that describes its conversion from Paganism to Christianity. Yet another from the word “Ringa”, a local word alluding to the loop shape of its river harbour.

Take your pick!

Riga through the centuries

Historically the area was part of the Viking’s overland route to what is now Istanbul and nearby in the 2nd Century was a local Livonian settlement. The Vikings between 800-1000AD used its harbour for trade in crafts, fishing and animals

1158 stands out as a milestone when German traders named it for its harbour and trading position. In 1200 Crusaders under religious instructions to convert and rule the local populace, took over the area and Riga became the dominant town around.

1207 brought fortifications to the town and local Livonians were ruled by Bishops, Emperors and Popes from far away.

Riga’s founding stone for the Cathedral was placed in 1211 (it was finished in 1225), just as it started minting money. In 1282 it joined the Hanseatic League (like Tallinn to its north) and it finally gained stability and entreprise.

Jump forward to 1522 and the city became a “Free city” for 20 years under the Holy Roman Empire. That was short-lived though as wars with the Poles, Swedes and Russians dominated the scene. Sweden held onto it till 1710 when Tsar Peter the Great captured it and the city flourished enormously.

All very familiar to the Tallinn story I had written about earlier.

The city’s wealth grew and its importance was huge in the area, being the biggest timber and trade exporter in the region. By 1900 the city was the fifth biggest in the Russian Empire, even though its population still regarded itself as around 40% ethnic German

Obviously, being a Russian city, it went through the 1905 Russian revolution and the advent of WW1 which saw it taken by the Germans in 1917. When the Germans left in 1918 after losing the War, Latvia declared independence, before the Russians could come back in and was independent until 1940.

1940 saw Russia invade, then the Nazis retook it in 1941 and held it till 1944 when the Russians retook it. All this in the face of huge bombing and destruction of the city. So many heritage buildings were severely damaged or completely destroyed but were carefully reconstructed.

Probably the most famous building in Riga, the beautiful House of the Blackheads is actually a total reconstruction of the building from 1995 !

 A few facts on Riga

The city generates more than 50% of Latvia’s GDP as well as around half of Latvia’s exports. The biggest exports are in wood products, IT, food and beverage manufacturing, pharmaceuticals, transport and metallurgy.

Riga has one of the highest concentrations of Art Nouveau buildings in the world. This was mainly due to its huge expansion of wealth and construction at that fashionable period. I saw so many of these and beautiful, grand other styles too – even my apartment was in a listed 19th Century building.

You would not sense it, but a third of the entire population of the country actually live in the capital – that must be one of the highest ratios around.

Riga was the European Capital of Culture in 2014.

Where to stay in Riga, Latvia

There are generally five areas in Riga, Latvia to look for hotels.

The area to the south of the central area – by the bus station – is one is a good area. Here you have the benefit of the important bus station if you travelling in or onwards by bus.

It also has the fabulous indoor market opposite, (apparently the largest in Europe), and is an easy walk to the centre in 15 mins.

The area a little further east and and an extra 5 mins walk, near the train station, also has great hotels. They tend to be more modern and bigger, and a little less pretty, as the modern buildings blend less sensitively to the older ones.

The area across the river will hold some big international names and may be a little cheaper. However you will have to contend with a taxi ride or public transport – buses and trolleybuses cross the Vansu and Akmens bridges. They will be in more sparsely built up areas from the redeveloped older areas of the city.

The central “Old Town” contains relatively few hotels. The few that are here tend to be grander, expensive traditional ones or boutique styles with an appropriate price tag.

My favourite area would be the hotels east of, or along, Elizabeth Street. A few modern design are here but generally they are in large grander renovated buildings on wide but quiet avenues and pretty side streets.

You also have the benefit of being in an area with lots of commercial interests eg restaurants, bars, shops, malls and other up market residential blocks.

You are also usually around 15 mins easy and safe walk to the “Old Town” – often a walk through a park to get there too.

I often walked the side streets and took different routes back to the apartment from the centre along many of these streets. They had impressive architecture of eras long gone and the buildings could be stunning to pass by. The area is also well connected by trams and buses and just 20 mins walk to the central station and next-door bus station.

Where I stayed in Riga, Latvia

I stayed at the RigaLux Skolas apartments complex. The Riga Lux Company has two apartment blocks in differing parts of the city so make sure you know which one you want to book – one called Skolas and one called Ernesta. I stayed at the Skolas one.

I had booked an hotel in Tallinn but I wanted  something other than an hotel for Riga and Vilnius. One of the reasons was that I was travelling light with hand luggage and thus would probably need to wash some clothing to reuse during my 10 days travelling. The Riga apartments have a washing machine so this was one deciding factor for me.

The company emailed me beforehand to inform me of the security code to get in through the large impressive iron gates at the entrance and to check on my arrival time.

The building itself is a gorgeous and pastel mauve coloured edifice, artistically illuminated at night and very well maintained. It certainly gave an air of luxury and prominence as its name suggested.

I arrived early morning, tapped in the code and the gates entered and I walked through the tall wide archway to the sumptuous office round the left corner of the building.

As I had arrived well before check in time they happily stored my bag in their office until I returned after exploring the city on my first day.

The staff could not have been more friendly or helpful, speaking perfect English and very professional. When I arrived back later, I was lead to my apartment, shown how everything operated, given a map of the city and explanations of what to see and they gave me several recommendations for food shops and places to eat and drink.

The office is manned daytime and if there are any issues I was encouraged to contact them immediately. There was only one issue, where I could not get the TV to work (unfamiliar with the set-up) but the office guy came over immediately and politely showed me how to do it. Excellent service.

I also wanted a quiet place to stay and most of the apartments here look onto a large central courtyard rather than a noisy road. I ensured my apartment was a courtyard view one and it was perfectly quiet.

The big courtyard can accommodate a few cars and scooters for guests bringing their own transport but I never heard them.

The apartments were super modern, very stylish, clean and in relaxing tones of colours. I immediately felt at home here and the large kitchen area with kettle, microwave, oven and stove was ideal. A full set of crockery and utensils were there, so I had everything I needed to cook a meal.

The lounge was so comfy with a big sofa and TV with plenty of channels, (many English speaking ones too). The bed was ginormous and super comfy. The bathroom was a little small but very practically designed and contained the washing machine.

A table and chairs meant I had huge space to sit for a meal and to set up my laptop for the excellent wifi.

My apartment had a small sit-out balcony overlooking the courtyard – it was bliss to open the doors to let in a cooling breeze. There is no air con but the windows open fully and it is so quiet. I love my air con but I found the apartment fine, even in the Summer sun.

If you are looking for a stylish, up market, quiet apartment, an easy and pretty 15 mins walk to the centre of town, then this is the place.

Its location meant that I never needed to take transport to get to the compact centre and all its attractions. The walk to and from the centre is actually along nice streets of grand buildings in a very safe and quiet area of the city.

I would have no hesitation in recommending this apartment complex. If ever I go back to Riga this place will be at the top of my list to check out again.

Centrs area around my Riga Lux apartment 

I wandered around the area of my hotel just after leaving my bags, as I was intrigued by how opulent the architecture was.

There were so many art nouvea, classical and grand buildings. This was clearly an affluent area in the past and I noticed several more upmarket eateries and stores. I had to explore more!

I found buildings, that whilst of no great historical or tourist interest, were beautiful in themselves .

Here are a few of those buildings. A church (that would be a major attraction in many other cities), the pastel coloured belfry of another old church, a hospital (brown ornate stonework), and an apartment block (complete with coloured lead roof). I was impressed by all this and I hadn’t even seen the important buildings yet.

The map says the area is called Centrs – central – well, it kinda is unless you go too far north or east before the next suburb.

What to see and do in Riga, Latvia

I had seen quite a lot of art and churches during my 3 day stay before I arrived here, in Tallinn, Estonia. I thus decided that unless there was an outstanding museum in this city I would restrict my visits to more outdoor and varied sites.

It just so happens that I had seen the biggest Art Gallery in the whole of the Baltics in Tallinn. That would be a tall order to beat and after researching I found little art here that would seriously entice me in.

Luckily my apartment was about 8 mins walk down an attractive street (Skolas Street) of stores and cafes to to get to my first site to see – Esplanade Park.

Esplanade Park and Gardens

This large, leafy park on a warm Summer day is a delight to wander around. There’s plenty to see, in the sense that there are various artworks dotted around the park, along with monuments and statues. The three large buildings here are worthy of individual attention too, more on those later.

The artworks here lie at various points as you work around the park. Some are presented in front of a large open, paved area in which to stand and admire – presumably those in past times did. Others are placed on the walkways and are a clever combination of art and “tricks of the eye” sculptures.

Two statues – one of Rainis, a poet, dramatist, politician and theatre director (that’s quite a C.V. !) stands hewed from beige carved stone in an open area. He was a nationalist in his writings and publications as an newspaper editor and a fighter for social justice and national freedom.

He was imprisoned by the Russians and then emigrated in 1905, returning in 1920, after Latvia gained independence from Russia. He became a member of Parliament and a government Minister in 1926 but died only three years later.

The other is a restored bronze statue of Mihaela Barklaja de Tolli. He was a distinguished commander of several Russian-Prussian armies and fought against Napoleon I. He rose to high military command, governor of Finland and eventually  commanded the Western Army of the Russian Empire. He was born in Riga, so is a local lad, even though he fought under a Russian Emperor.

The statue is large and impressive, again in an open area of the walk . It’s unfortunate that its backdrop is the ugly 1970’s Radisson Hotel skyscraper, so make sure to take a pic from the right angle!

The first building I encountered walking through the park was the

Nativity of Christ Cathedral Riga

I decided to start at this end of the park away from where I entered as I wanted to see the nearby statues first and this would lead me to the Cathedral.

I would then double back to where I entered the park to walk in the opposite direction towards my next place to see

This is a intricately designed Russian Orthodox Cathedral with gold domes and carved marble walls. Its neo-Byzantine style stands out in the park and from across the tree lined boulevard opposite.

The building dates from 1883 and is the largest Orthodox church in the 3 nation Baltic States.

Tallinn held the largest art Museum in the Baltics. Riga has the largest Orthodox Cathedral. So I wonder what Vilnius in Lithuania will have the biggest of, when I get there in 3 day’s time!

There are no pics to show of the interior of this Cathedral – photos are not permitted  – quite common in Russian Orthodox churches I have found.

Whilst I have none, I can say that from what I saw, the interior is stunning. There is rich gold panelling in front of the altar and much gold ornamentation around individual saintly icons. The walls are heavily patterned and decorated in a blue theme,

Just remember that the Soviet authorities closed this Cathedral in 1960, as they did with most in those days. They converted it into a planetarium of all things! It was fully reconverted back to its present glory upon Latvia’s independence in 1991

I can vouch that it is worth going in to see.

Latvian National Museum of Art

This is a fairly recent building in that it opened in 1903 to house the then overflowing art works of the then region of Russia.

It houses Latvian artworks specifically but has many temporary, changing exhibitions too. The combined ticket to see both the permanent and temporary exhibitions was only 6 Euros (cheap where I come from). The French Napoleonic design was interesting from the outside however.

I was tempted, but as the artworks no doubt would be interesting, there were no overriding or world famous pieces there to see.

I’m a great art fan but there was so much more to see in Riga, and possibility had more time value to me, so I skipped it. Maybe another day if I have time at the end.

If you need info on this museum, click here for opening times, tickets etc

Walk further along the main road facing the Latvian Nation Art Museum and you will come to a building that looks like a pseudo Gothic Edwardian train station. This brick building with church like arched and rosette windows is actually the Art Academy of Latvia.

Art Academy of Latvia

Outside stands a Michelin man-like glitter ball statue. Its space age shiny glass contrasts sharply with the building dating from 1905. The Academy however was founded in 1921 and was set up in this building.

Today it is an institution of higher education and scientific research in art. It houses a small art gallery of changing exhibits, but today was not an art day for me.

It is worth stopping by to admire it from the outside. Then consider that the grand Latvian National Museum of Art next door, in its completely different architectural style, was built only a couple of years before this one. Look at the contrast in style and design!

Click here for opening times etc for the Art Academy

Bastion Hill Park and surrounding area

The streets that face Bastion Hill Park on all sides contain some of the most spectacular edifices in Riga. There are University buildings, hotels and a couple of Embassies and some just down-right beautiful apartment blocks.

Here are just a selection, in no particular order. I just love it when you are walking down streets of ornate and opulent buildings, that are not historically remarkable in themselves, but just lend a serene and grand atmosphere to the street ….. Riga has many of these streets!

The shops around here also tend to be high-end and many stores on the ground floors of some of these buildings contain tourist elements i.e. travel agents and up scale eateries.

The streets are also remarkedly quiet for such a central position. Trams trundle by and cars drive at slow speeds.

Bastion Park

This is one of the most serene and quiet parks that I have visited for a long time .

In 1859 it was decided that the old defensive sand bulwark on a raised area along one side of the centre of the city was no longer needed and it was removed.

What was left was a bastion (old hill) and an elevated area from which today you can get marvellous views across the park. Little pathways take you along the short walkways to reach the hill from different angles.

There are a couple of small bridges. One has the now often seen padlocks attached to the balustrade of the bridge. The just married leave their padlocks here, which, according to belief, brings a long life and happiness.

Ducks and swans have taken over much of the canal waterway and it is usual to see them gracefully gliding along the water surface. There is even a special swan house on the bank

In Summer a traditionally designed pleasure boat plies the waters and you can take trips that navigate the canal system. A huge water jet fountain spurts out of one area of the waterway and people can hire rowing boats for that slow drift across the waters.

Today cute paths, alleys of trees, a stone garden, lawns, water features and a canal waterway system make the park an idyllic area for strolling and lying in the sun. Benches are dotted everywhere. The trees, planted beds of flowers and immaculately maintained shrubbery are a green oasis in the city

Within the park are several important statues.

One is to someone who is acclaimed as the mot important and renown playwriter in Latvian History Rūdolfs Blaumanis. He lived in Latvia and Russia, publishing works as he went. He was so renown his works were published to great acclaim in neighbouring Estonia as well. Nearby a small stream with stone banks passes by

You can continue across the park via the pathway under the higher bridge. The bridge holds one of only three roads that pass through the park – all on overhead bridges.

Or, as I did, leave the park here to actually cross the road to get to the other side of the park. The reason to cross the road was that from the bridge top there is a grand view down the wide boulevard to one of Riga’s most prestigious monuments

The Freedom Monument

This is a 42 metre tall needle-like column of granite surmounted by a blue-green coloured copper-bronze statue. It is considered an important symbol of the freedom, independence, and sovereignty of Latvia.

It was placed here in 1935 to honour the soldiers killed in the Latvian War of Independence (1918-20), against the Russians. Even though the Russians retook Riga in 1940 and twice considered it for demolition it was never done. It was felt the demolition would be a flash point for an uprising by the people against the authorities.

The statue (Liberty) is holding up three stars in a gesture that is supposed to resemble the phrase ” Shine like a star”.

After the restoration of independence there has been an almost permanent ceremonial group of honorary guards on  duty at the column. On my visit the column was undergoing renovations and so the guards were absent.

While you are standing admiring the Monument from afar, turn around and look down the street towards the famous 5 star Hotel Roma. On the corner nearest you will be a small, square, black and white clocktower with the worlds Laima on it.

Laima Clocktower

It is a landmark in the city and a well known meeting point. The original clocktower was put here in 1936 and shortly afterwards the Laima Confectionary Company acquired the right to place its name on the top for advertising purposes.

It has been reconstructed twice since then, each time keeping the original design true. In Soviet times it was used as a news info (propaganda) point.

Not a massive monument to see but quite quaint in its typical 30’s art deco style

Walk back into the park on the other side of the road.

The small pathways here will take to towards the Opera House, through small tendered flower beds towards the canal again

Latvian National Opera and Ballet House 

This elegant, columned Greek classical style building has been here since 1863, housing the original Opera and Ballet company that started in 1782. Its façade is decorated by 6 ionic columns under a triangular portico. Its walls and higher platforms are decorated with various statues and embellishments symbolising comedy, tragedy and the arts.

If you wonder why it has such a grand view across the park to the other side, then it is because it was built on one of the original bulwarks defence bastions.

The building has had so many variations of its title over the years as Soviets, Latvians and Nazis tried to influence its name according to their political will.

Over history the building has also been totally rebuilt twice after two devastating fires in 1883 and 1919. It was totally renovated again to make it viable for a modern-day audience’s needs in 1995. Click here for ticket info on The Opera House

I was lucky on the day to see it framed by the beautiful flowering plants in the beds in front. The trickling waters of the opposite Nymph Fountain added to its elegant setting.

Its setting facing the semi formal garden area of the park and the opposite Nymph fountain is so picturesque. I was lucky to see it when the flowers were in fill bloom and the fountain trickling its waters.

Nearby are the life size statues George Armitstead, Mayor of the city (1901-1912 and his wife Cecilia Pichlau. George Armitstead was one of the most successful and efficient mayors in the history of the city. Being life size the statues are a magnet for selfies and group photo calls. Their cute little dog accompanies them as well.

It was now late in the afternoon and my legs were telling me I had walked enough. If I carried on any further I would be going into the Old Town area and that is a day’s worth of visits in itself, so I decided to call it a day.

My apartment was also conveniently just 15 mins away across the park and up the main street so it seemed appropriate to stop now and head home.

Old Town Area 

The Old Town area of Riga is a UNESCO World Heritage protected site.

It is absolutely chocca-full of over 500 Buildings built in various architectural styles – Romanticism, Gothic, Mannerism, Baroque, Eclectic, Modernism, etc. It grew up protected and enhanced by guilds of craftsmen and artists who ensured opulent and grand buildings were erected in their honour.

Two of the most important Guilds still have their buildings preserved here.

Many of the streets are cobble-stoned or lined with flagstones and most are car-free. It even has one street Rozena Street that is so narrow it is famous for its pedestrians to be able to stretch out their arms and simultaneously touch the buildings lining the street.

My walk through this area is accompanied by pics where I feel it adds to the descriptions. To be honest you could lose yourself in the myriad of streets and just perform a free wander. You will rarely get lost as its not huge but it will take a few hours I reckon to walk every street ….. and every street is beautiful in the variety of perfectly restored buildings they contain.

I started my day pretty much where I left it yesterday. I headed through the two parks and picked up my starting point at :

Powder tower and Latvian Coats of Arms wall 

The old Powder Tower is actually a reconstruction of what was here originally in 1650. Forming part of the original defensive wall, it has been amazingly rebuilt to not given away its relative newness. It was rebuilt just before WW2 as part of the Latvian War Museum of the time – it is still here today.

The 5 floor Museum is free to enter and will give you a great viewpoint of the history of Latvia through its many wars.

As you approach this area from Bastion Hill Park, before you get to the Powder Tower, just note the building in front.

Its an old building but its curiosity is the huge side wall filled with the coats of arms of Latvian cities.

Jacobs Barracks are probably the biggest buildings along Torna Iela – Tower Street. These 18th century yellow pastel buildings were built alongside what were the city walls to the back of them. Mostly cafes, small artisan shops and offices now, they recreate an old world feel of a military building in a defensive street,

The whole street is just lined with well preserved buildings from various centuries that would have served the local garrison. Clearly store houses, Inns, taverns and boarding house would have been the interiors of these lovely edifices.

The Swedish Gate Riga

This gate forming the entrance through the city walls dates from 1698 and is reputedly called this because the barracks and gate were built when Sweden controlled Riga. Its the only old town gate left to see.

According to the legend, there’s a girl inside the tunnel wall. If you walk through the Swedish Gate with your beloved and hear the girl, you’re meant to stay together forever.

Parliament Building and Barricades memorial

The small but important Barricades Memorial stands near the parliament Building.

This memorial commemorates those who fought during Latvia’s struggle for independence from Soviet Russia 1990-01.

In Jan 1991 the local govt called on its citizens to rise up, which was overwhelmingly supported and done. The people built barricades in the streets in an attempt to prevent Russian military moving through the streets. Long story short …. the Latvians gained their independence, though scores of people were killed in the ensuing struggle.

Parliament in Latvia is called the Saeima, the word being an old Slavic word meaning “a gathering, a meeting or a council”.

In today’s Latvian democracy, it is a 100 seater chamber voted in by proportional representation. Its building dates from 1867, although it was not used as the Saeima until 1917 – Latvia’s year of independence from Russia

It was taken over from an aristocratic group of  regional nobles that swung great power from 1561 until it was disbanded in 1920.

The building is well known as not having been built in any of the established classic designs but is rather a free-hand mixture of many.

It was taken over by the Soviets as a regional Govt office and when the Nazis invaded Latvia it became the HQ for the infamous Nazi SS.

Three Brothers Buildings Riga Latvia

This is one of the weirdest views in Riga. Why do I say weird, well the three houses are of totally different styles and elevations sitting next to each other. Together they however form one of the most interesting sights here.

They are actually the oldest complex of original residential houses in Riga and sort of tell the story of the evolution of architecture from the 15th to 17th Century.

The square stepped totally white building on the right as you face them is the oldest. It dates from the 15th Century and is the oldest surviving stone built house in Riga. It was originally a very basic large, single roomed house with an attic.

The building in the middle carries clear Dutch architectural influences – gabled roofline and large small paned windows. It dates from 1646. if you think that the stone entrance portal look out of place  then you are correct. It was added in 1746 and somewhat stands out from the colourful of the rest of the building.

The house on the left was the last to be built – in the 17th Century. Built in the Baroque, decorative style it is the narrowest and shortest of the three.

The Three Brothers complex today houses the State Inspection for Heritage Protection. It also houses the befitting Latvian Museum of Architecture.

Riga Castle – Presidential Residence

Riga’s original castle was in the centre of the town but a local rebellion against the Lords of the Livonian order meant the populace destroyed the castle. The Lords decided to rebuild but chose a site outside the then city centre on the riverbank in 1330.

That didn’t last too long when another rebellion destroyed that castle in 1484. In 1621 the Swedes were the new masters of the area and its was expanded. When the Russians defeated the Swedes, they took it over and it became the Law Courts and Governor’s residence

It was declared the official residence of the President of Latvia upon its independence from Russia in 1922, The intervening occupation of the Soviets twice and the Nazis from 1940 meant that the Castle, ceased its Presidential role. It wasn’t until 1991, again upon Latvia’s independence from Russia, that it resumed its Presidential residence status.

This castle today resembles more a tall walled fortified mansion with symmetrical (and many) windows. The round end towers probably give away its origins as a castle. It also houses a museum in part of the buildings.

You can walk right up to its walls from the street, despite a sentry guard present.

Walk round the building and you come to the riverbank from which you can get shots of the high walls and towers. It is quite unassuming as a Palace as it blends in with the plethora of other grand buildings in the area.

The high walls are now roofed and windows installed in its facades, so the corner towers are the only giveaway that it used to be a fortified building.

There is a long riverside walk nearby – the only issue you may have will be getting across the busy highway between the castle and the river.

Riga Cathedral

Originally dating from 1211, this cathedral is often used a symbol for the city. It is formally known as the Cathedral Church of Saint Mary and often called the Dome Cathedral.

It has undergone several extensions since that date and is presently the largest mediaeval church in the Baltic region,

Its interior is somewhat plain – white walls, carved wooden altar, vaulted roof. The exterior shows the extensions over the years in their clearly differing styles of architecture.

The most eye-catching part of the Cathedral, for me, were the Cloisters. The brick and limestone walls were still roughly shaped. The contrasting coloured edges of the arches extenuated their curves. The area is often used for exhibitions and on the day I visited there was a modern sculpture exhibition in action.

As was common in all the Soviet Republics from 1919 churches and cathedrals were closed or turned into alternative venues. Riga’s Cathedral was used as a concert Hall and there was even a small Museum in part of its interior.

It returned to religious services from 1991. In the small square outside the Cathedral, there are often markets and streets Fayres .

Riga Stock Exchange Art Museum

The streets around the Cathedral are full of architecturally differing styles. Just take a walk and look upward, as well as at street level. Here you will see the Art Nouvea, Stalinist, Classical and ornate 1800s styles everywhere.

On the other side of the square from the Cathedral is the Riga Stock Exchange Museum. As the name indicates this used to be the Riga Stock Exchange Building but is now part of the Art Museums collections of the city.

It was built between 1852 and 1855 in the style of a Venetian renaissance palazzo symbolising wealth and plenitude. Today it house art collections, travelling exhibitions and promotes various art and cultural events.

It is sister to the Latvian National Museum of Art I talked about earlier, in the Esplanade park. Here the Bourse Museum (its alternative name) displays artworks form the Orient and 16-20th Century European art.

Click here for opening times info etc 

Riga Town Hall Square 

Wandering through the side streets, you will arrive at Town Hall Square. Here sits possibly the icon symbol of Riga and one of its strangest designs in buildings.

Originating from the early 1300s is the House of the Blackheads. Again not only an interesting looking building but one that has a strange sounding name. I had seen the House of the Blackheads in Tallinn, Estonia only the previous week and here it was again. So what was a Blackhead in Riga.

It was originally a military order but its social aspect came to dominance later. It represented the unmarried merchants, shipowners and foreigners of the city. Sounds a bit like a dating agency !

So why the name Blackheads ? ….. This is unclear but the main theory is as follows – the Patron Saint of the Brotherhood of Blackheads is the ethnically black Egyptian Christian Saint Maurice. He is also depicted on the Brotherhood’s coat of arms. Maybe  a bit un-PC but there you have it

Facing the House of the Blackheads is a more classically styled City Hall. It has been beautifully renovated and restored. I saw a picture of this square just after WW2. The House of the Blackheads and neighbouring buildings had been bombed out.

In fact, the House of the Blackheads is a rebuild in the original style, as it was flattened by German bombing. What was left of it was flattened by the Soviets on their retake of the city. The only original part that survived were the underground cellars that can be seen on a visit today.

It looks a lot like a church – I remember a church in Warsaw looking similar but without the external decoration. Today it serves as a civic reception building for visiting VIPs, Presidents etc and an events location.

What we see today is a perfect copy of it, that was reconstructed 1996-99 …. I wondered how a building dating from the 1300’s looked so crisply new! Interesting fact – it served as home of the Latvian President 2012-16, while Riga Castle was being converted for that use today.

Nearby is a very heavy looking Stalinist style statue/monument to the Latvian Riflemen. This troupe was raised and fought against the Germans in WW1 on the side of the Russians (under whose political control the country was). It consisted of Latvians only and is a strange notion of Latvians fighting to support Russians, who they later rebelled against.

You can walk down towards the river here, passing the heavy looking, brown brick, 1930s style building, of the Technical University on the right. Look across the river to get a closer view of the modern triangular shaped Latvian National Library Building.

The rather unfortunately brutalist, modern building in green slab cladding sits adjacent to the House of the Blackheads. A jarring eyesore in its design, it holds the Latvian Museum of the Occupation of Latvia 1940-91

St Peter’s Church Riga

Dating from 1209, this church – the size of a Cathedral – was built in stages over the centuries and actually incorporates the distinct styles relating to each expansion period.

The old bell tower was replaced in 1456 and a 135 metre tall steeple added to the tower in 1491. The tower was rebuilt several times after fires and lightning strikes, with a the taller 146 metres tower, reputedly the tallest wooden tower in Europe in its day. This never survived yet another fire and a smaller 120 meters tower was reconstructed.

Bombing in WW2 destroyed it yet again – I wondered what, if anything, of the original building was now left. On the exterior it still looks centuries old but the interior has that crisper, clean-lined look.

In the 1950’s and 60’s it underwent further restorations and a clock was placed here. According to tradition, it has only an hour hand. The bell rings rebegan in 1976 and it plays a Latvian folk melody five times a day, The clock bells ring out on the hour.

The interior walls were plain white-washed but vast areas were just plain terracotta coloured bricks. It felt a bit industrial rather than an impressive arrangement for religious services. Maybe this was the rework that was done in the 1950’s?

On my visit there was an art exhibition on the interior walls – the first time I’ve seen an art gallery of this size inside a church and it was impressive.

You can take the lift, for a fee, to the top of the tower. I chose the cheaper stair climb and it was relatively easy on wide stairwells.

From the top of the tower is the best view, from anywhere, of the rooftops of Riga. I could see across the city to the far parks and look down directly on the beautiful, stylish buildings and streets of Old Riga.

I could even see across to the huge triple domes of Riga indoor Central Market and across the Daugava river. Downstream, the modern triangular and, in my view not particularly attractive, library on the opposite side of the river stood out.

The stair climb can be exhaustive if you are not fit but can be taken at a leisurely pace. You mustn’t miss it as has the best views in town. If you really can’t face the climb take the lift but there may be a little wait during busy times.

St John’s Church Riga

The Church is built on the site of Albert, Bishop of Riga’s Palace. He is seen as the founding father of the city having brought Christianity and Papal powers to the area around 1206. He also laid the cornerstone of Riga Cathedral.

It was originally a small chapel but extended in 1330 and several more times over the centuries. A spire was added in 1677.

Being plain and almost set into a line of buildings on many sides, I nearly missed it. Only the larger windows on one side gave it away. The interior like many Lutheran Churches here is somewhat plain.

However what is eye-catching is the enormous lattice/fretwork pattern on the vaulted ceiling. It really brings the interior to life in its design. The altar resembles a more traditional style with its porticoed altar surrounds, carving of Christ on the cross and higher framed painting.

I couldn’t test it, but it is said that it is chosen as a concert hall by many musicians for its fine acoustics. There were in fact concerts going on the month I visited and these were displayed on notices near the entrance – if only I had the time to stay longer to catch one of these events,

St. John’s Church area Riga

The area around the church is possibly the most captivating section of the city.

For me it was like wandering through a town in the 15th century. Cobblestoned courtyards, flagstoned walkways surrounding by decorated houses, tiled roofed buildings with painted walls and leaded windows. There was even a long wooden balcony that looked like an outdoor Minstrels Gallery. The area is steeped in history and charm.

I took my time to explore – and you should too. There are just too many old buildings here to list and all just being used as homes, offices, residential places despite being a few hundred years old (if not reconstructed from the devastation of WW2).

Livu Square Riga

I took a long road that lead from this are towards my next stop.

Livu square is a charming area but is quite diverse in its architecture. The centre of the square is mainly set to lawns and walkways and often has small craft stalls placed here for various festivals.

One side of the square has terracotta tiled, sloping roofed buildings, often only two storeys high, Their painted walls and large windows hark back to a golden era but they also seem a little Disney-esque in their perfection. They resemble more a village atmosphere and if they are reconstructions they they did a good job!

One side also has grander Parisian looking buildings from the 1900 – in fact one houses the Russian Theatre and others a few hotels and up market eateries.

Another has a line of trees that hides the interesting buildings behind it – more on that in a moment.

The other looks a bit unfinished. A large plain end wall, with a modern restaurant complex at ground level beside it.

The central wavy patterned grass is interesting. In all a delightfully styled square of differing buildings and architectural designs. It is quite touristy though and numbers here can be a bit heavy in peak season due to its attractive setting.

The Small Guild and the Great Guild

The large Great Guild, also known as the Guild of St Mary, stands on Livu Square, built in a gothic form in 1859. It was principally designed to bring together German craftsmen and traders although weddings and events were held there too.

Although the building dates from 1353 and the stained glass windows of 1888 in part of the building depicts events of the day, it is mainly an English Gothic revival style. Various rooms are richly decorated and one of the rooms still survives from its original 14th Century origins.

Today it serves as home to the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra, after the interior was converted in 1965.

The Small Guild building is also officially known as the Guild of St. John. Built in 1888, It was similar to its neighbour in being set up as a fraternity of master craftsmen that existed from 1352 to 1936. Its exterior is also remarkably similar.

The interior, especially the hall, lobby and staircase floors are lined with terrazzo mosaics. The high arched windows are full of artistic colourful stained glass,

Today it is also used for presentation, conferences, events etc.

Both buildings do look a little out of place due to their design. Set amongst more classical and less ornamental edifices, they stand out.

Cat House Riga

This beige stone family house was built in 1909 in a mix of mediaeval/art nouveau style by a wealthy merchant.

There are two cats with arched backs and raised tails on the very tip of the two conical turrets on part of the building. Whilst the building looks very grand the tourists flock here to see the two cat statues.

So why two cats sticking out so strangely on its roofline?

Well, legend has a story that the owner had a major disagreement with the Guild, who denied him membership. It is also said that he had a disagreement with the Town Hall. Both buildings are in the same direction as the rear end of the cats. It is said that he was showing his displeasure at one or other (according to which tale you believe) and the cats are expressing his hostility towards then in an undignified way.

Intriguing storey as the building, admittedly big and grand is no different from many others in the area ….. it’s just the storeys of the cats that attract people here. You will know when you have arrived here from the number of tourists standing and looking at the buildings roofline, so you can’t miss it !

Vermane Gardens Riga

My day had sort of finished and I now had a short walk back to my apartment. I had left the last visit as a pass-by on that walk back as I would be going that way and the Gardens are not a must see in themselves.

However I had read that there was an impressive flower market next to it – and if the one I saw in Tallinn a few days previously was anything to go by then this would be a colourful sight too.

Indeed, right next to he Riga Courthouse building – impressive itself in its 18th Century French style – was the market. Selling all types of flowers and arrangement, it was smaller than Tallinn’s but just as colourful and varied.

I walked past the stalls and into the gardens.

Inside is a quiet green oasis of calm and shade. It does have an imaginative fountain and couple of statues but the walkways, benches and shade were what I needed.

It’s a restful place and if you bring a snack and drink is a great place to recover from all the sightseeing.

The local menfolk were enjoying the open air and were seated in groups at the benches and tables playing chess and draughts. It was eerily quiet as they were all in deep concentration and competition! They had their lunch with them and it was clearly a regular event amongst friends. I watched a while as they battled and admired their calmness and determination.

Riga trams

I love trams, maybe because I grew up in cities in the UK that never had them so they were never part of my life until I travelled abroad and saw them.

Trams have been around in Riga since the horse-drawn version of them from 1882. Electric trams came along in 1901.

With 11 tram routes, 29 bus routes and 27 trolleybus (buses connected to the overhead electric cables like trams) routes, you are never far from public transport in Riga. A tram ride cost a flat-fare, any distance 2 euros.

The trams are mainly modern but every now and again an older version noisily trundles by (the new trams are eerily quiet however).

Buses, trolleybuses and trams are all painted in the blue and white colour of the one company that runs them all.

I just had to take a pic of this oldie one as it went by!

Getting back to the apartment now meant my time in Riga was over. I had loved this city, very affluent, well planned and with a great central park and Old Town area. It had impressed me more than I was expecting and I’d love to get back here some day to explore more.

Sept 2017

Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.