Casablanca, Morocco
The film “Casablanca” just kept ringing through my head every time I thought of my trip here but I was sure not to find Bogart still around …. But I did find a replica, wonderful “Ricks Café” that even showed the films inside on a loop that was the highlight of my wanderings. The city has one of the biggest Mosques in the world and despite the relative poverty I saw around the city it was superbly crafted and decorated. The central square with its 1920’s French-Moroccan architecture and now the new National Theatre and refurbished fountains are a real throwback to its colonial past. It has a Medina but not the best I’ve seen, lacking beauty or even a safe feel to it.
Train journey from Marrakesh to Casablanca.
My Moroccan venture was actually a 3 city tour by train from Marrakesh where I flew into. I then went by train to Casablanca and then onwards, again by train to Rabat. Click on the name of the city here to see my individual city reviews. Click here for Moroccan trains service.
So, I choo chooed it in from Marrakesh on the train. Train was a little dated but perfectly clean and functional and in no way affected my journey’s enjoyment. I wanted to travel this way to see the countryside between cities here. I had the impression of Morocco as a desert haven and wanted to confirm or otherwise this theory …… I was wrong! The journey through the big windows showed me a much more rocky and green land than I imagined.
Lush fields of crops were interspersed with stoney areas of some barren rocks and hillsides. It also fluctuated between cultivated land and small holdings of goats and animals with associated farm buildings. To my surprise, it was incredibly flat in most areas.
I did initially get a view of the Atlas Mountains in the distance as we left Marrakesh, but after that the vistas were less dramatic. Just goes to show that you need to see something in real life to dispel or confirm your pre-conceived impressions!
Train arrived in Casablanca, Morocco’s largest city, at Casa Voyageurs station.
Walk from train station to city centre.
From Casa Voyageurs train station it is a 30 mins walk to the Place des Nations Unies, where my hotel was just around the corner. Yes I keep talking of walking as it is a passion of mine as a mode of transport! I travel with one small bag usually so I find it quite easy, healthy and cheap. The route is pretty much a straight line – the whole length of Boulevard Mohammad V – and goes through a couple of squares on the way.
It interestingly passes by old French colonial style 30’s buildings that have clearly seen better days and was presumably a grand avenue in its day (not now!).
On the route, there were so many street sellers, clearly from other African countries further south. They had spread their pitches with blankets on the pavements, selling anything from toys to household kitchen paper. I definitely got the feeling that these people were eeking out a living this way.
Still perfectly safe though and it was quite busy, with the occasional tram trundling by at various intersections. I again enjoyed my walk and insight into the local’s reality. As I keep saying, you see more by walking, as this would not have been encountered from the back seat of a taxi.
Got to my hotel and rested from the walk and day’s travel for 10 mins before I was out to explore!
Where to stay in Casablanca
Hotels are spread throughout the city but there is a bunch of the most popular and international brands near the Casa Port area and associated streets leading to it.
Here would be a good place to stay, as it is fairly central to most places you will probably want to see. These hotels will give you standards you possibly already have experienced from their brand images. Everything from a cheaper Ibis to a sophisticatted Softel or Grand Hyatt will be nearby.
Further out will be more local hotels and the standards will therefore be less guaranteed. There are some excellent ones and the benefit of checking reviews etc and selecting a good one will be rewarded in their much cheaper prices.
However, if it is right out of the central area, check if it is on a tram route. The trams are modern and clean and are an excellent way to get about the city, for a comparitively cheap price per journey – I can vouch for that from personally using them.
Where I stayed in Casablanca – Kenzi Basma Hotel
I did my usual extensive research to get a good price with good quality.
The international hotels had prices quite a bit higher than local ones – understandable, but I wanted a cheaper price. Several local hotels stood out and a national chain kept coming up with good reviews. I checked it many times and their hotels in other cities and they had a consistently good record … I booked it.
The hotel was clean, modern and surprisingly busy – always a good sign.
As I arrived I noticed several big coaches parked next to it and realised that major tour companies used this hotel – another good sign. On my visit a cruise liner had guests staying here before they embarked on their ship. There was also a major American tour company with groups here. Whilst this did mean at times I had to endure well dressed – but incredible loud and vocal – Americans en masse in the resatuarant, it was a really good choice.
Room was modern and very comfy, bathroom modern, wifi very good and everything as expected. The breakfast was excellent, big variety and fresh and service was outstanding.
Beware however, that the glass is not soundproofed. so I heard street noise more than I was expecting. Moroccans use their car horns incessantly for the smallest of reasons, so traffic noise can be an issue. I guess the way to avoid this is request a room at the back of the hotel. My room faced the road and although it had a view across the city, Casablanca is not reknown for its picturesque rooftop views.
The hotel had great facilities -two restaurants, a bar and an enormous side lobby (seperate from the main entrance lobby) with tables and chairs. I used this a couple of times just to use teh internet on my Ipad to escape the boredom of being in my room all the time I wanted to send emails etc.
It’s situated just 5mins walk from the central square of Place des nations Unies so really well placed for walking around the city.
I recommend this hotel if you want a reasonable rate with international standards of the more expensive brands 10 mins away. It’s modern, clean, stylish with helpful English speaking staff in a great location. Resataurant are food were really good and inexpensive and the bar huge and inviting.
Mohammad V Square.
First place to visit was one of the main attractions of the city – Mohammad V Square.
Here you can stand in the middle of this huge rectangular pedestrianised area and see the city at work. The Main post office (Moorish arches and green tiles), the Law Courts, the 1930’s Art deco French/Moroccan style City Hall with its clocktower, the main Bank, and Government departmental buildings.
The French Consulate with the enormous fountain is at one end the newly built Grand Theatre de Casablanca is at the other. The Theatre was nearing completion when I visted, so my pics show you it being built, at the same time as they were refurbishing the square.
This is one huge hit of the main buildings in Casablanca!
Stand back near the only road that travels through the square though and wait for a tram to come along. They are superbly modern and sleek and a pic of this eye-catching vehicle, against a backdrop of traditional buildings, must be one of my all-time favourite pics I have taken!
From here I decided to walk to the next big attraction in Casablanca – the Hassan II Mosque.
It is a long walk, so take a taxi if you are not into city hiking as I am. However this walk showed me how the locals live, street scenes and views and smells on the way.
The city clearly has poverty and planning issues but the walk was entirely safe and easy. You need to experience the good and the bad, to get a true picture of life out of the classic, polished tourist areas and this walk certainly did that..
Hassan II Mosque.
Now this is something to behold for its size, decoration and sheer placement, perched on a platform jutting into a rocky coastline with waves tumbling in around it.
It was built in 1993, so modern in age but traditional in styling. It holds a few records too as it is the largest mosque in Africa, holding 105,000 worshippers including the outside worship area.
It has the tallest minaret tower in the world at 210 metres tall and was built mainly by public donation. There are bathhouses (hammam) underneath that are gloriously coloured and nearly all the construction materials used where taken from locations in Morocco.
Visits are only by guided tours but you can turn up and pay for a ticket and join the next one. During the tour we were told it is the biggest in the world! – I have been told this in 5 different Mosques around the world so that claim is open to discussion!
The mosque is wonderfully embellished, horseshoe arches, has 58 chandeliers, Moorish columns, and air conditioned through concealed ducts in the pillars. However, the roof is actually retractable!
The guides were very friendly, humorous but also very well informed with several interesting facts divulged to us on the way. They happily answered our many questions and I would advise you to find out the tour times on the web and arrive here early to ensure a ticket.
This is one place in Casablanca you must not miss!
From here there is a modern office and residential quarter across the street which juxtaposes strongly with the old traditional feel of most of the city.
Modern Casablanca.
Think Casablanca is just old Souks, the Medina, Mosques and a waterfront – think again. It has a ultra modern, office block strewn Business District overlooking the Med.
Gleaming towers and stylish apartment blocks overlooking the sea, with a lovely seafront promenade and gardens made it almost surreal to walk this area.
Look across the road and you see the ancient walls of the old Medina area. Such a contrast but it does seem to work.
“Ricks Café.”
Now, do you fancy at trip into the cinematographic past?
Well, cross the Boulevard from the modern Business area you have just been in and walk down it away from the Mosque.
Eventually to the right you will see Boulevard Sour Jdid and a small square with a few palm trees. Here is the well-known “Ricks café”, (click here for info). Ok, so this is a bit indulgent but a must do. If you have seen the Humphrey Bogart/Imgrid Bergman film “Casablanca”, then here is a homage to the film.
It isn’t the actual café/casino in the film but is a building from the same time period of the 1930-40s, plays the Casablanca film on a loop in the bar and has an atmospheric café/restaurant/bar emulating the feel of the film. You can pop in anytime during the day for a coffee or drink in the bar or dine at lunch or evening (reservations best in eve) and just soak up the “Casablanca” film feel.
I did and drank coffee in the bar as a welcome break in my walking and watched the film as the famous “in all the bars in all the world”…. and …. “play it again Sam” lines are heard on the screen.
He actually says something slightly different in the film but those are the lines we all know! ….. Pure indulgence!
Other places to visit in casablanca.
By the way, you can pass by the Cathedral in the city but it has been closed for several years. It still is to my knowledge but it is worth seeing from afar, through the fence …. pity, it looked quite resplendent in its day.
The Medina was huge and worth a walk through but to be honest I have been to better old Medinas. There are a few old noteworthy buildings inside but it was so easy to get lost in the narrow alleyways and not a place I felt particularly comfortable in, as poverty is an issue here.
The Medina gate near the Place des Nations Unies is worth a look as it gives the fortified impression that it once was and there is an attractive, free-standing, old clocktower just next door. The clocktower was built in 1908 but destroyed, then rebuilt in 1994.
Places to eat in Casablanca.
For eats there are several options.
I chose to splash out (not actually as expensive as I thought though) and went across to the 5-star Hyatt Regency in Place des nations Unies. I had a great 3-course meal here of tradional foods and local beer at at their Dar Beida restaurant.
They have a cool, stylish bar with well-dressed clientele and it made a welcome change from the rather rough and ready experience that I had endured the last 6 days, so was a welcome alternative.
However, if you want cheaper, the options are more limited centrally but Boulevard Felix Houphouet-Boigny has masses of hotels with bars/restaurants (ibis to the Novotel).
The Casa Port railway terminus has a huge modern two level shopping centre/restaurant/café areas for the budget conscious. You can also get standard-fare like Starbucks and MacDonalds here, for those who miss home !
A walk down Avenue des FARS will also bring you to well-known hotel restaurants and a few eateries with a Pizza Hut there too! On other nights I ate at my hotel restaurant
Casablanca in a nutshell
Casablanca is not a tourist town. It has touristy things to see – the big Mosque is unmisable as it’s opulent, famous and very tourist friendly. It is one of the few Mosques in Morocco where non-Muslims are allowed to enter. However that entrance is by guided tour only, for a ticket fee, but so worth it.
It has an old Medina area which in my view was a bit decrepid and, whilst historic, was not well maintained or tourist friendly.
The Place des Nations Unies and a walk down to the port is pleasant – a few old buildings, clock tower etc but more of an eating and shopping experince than anything else.
The Mohammad Square with its colonial past, French-Moroccan design buildings is worth walking around. The fountains here are beautiful and a pic of the modern trams trundling past older buildings is a great shot to take.
However, how can you travel around Morocco and not explore its biggest city. It’s a working city with modern trams, a modern business area and the hustle and bustle that a large city should have. Morocco is not all about beaches and the alleyways of Marrkaesh and here Casablance will impress that upon you for sure.
Jan 2017.
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So much detail on this post, I’d love to visit Morocco one day. Thanks for sharing
Glad you liked the post. It is actually even easier to travel between the cities now as new improved super modern trains have taken over – why restrict yourself to one place
Play it again, Sam.
Thats pretty cool! I never would have thought Morocco would have fields and green scenery. I also didn’t think Casablanca was that modern looking, so that’s something new for me. Glad to see that for the most part it’s a walkable place. I love walking around and exploring places on foot, so this seems like a good place for that!
The area between the Atlas Mountains (Marakesh)and the coast can be quite green or semi-barren. It’s after the mountains, when you head neareer the Sahara that it’s really sandy/rocky. The scenery surprised me too.
The hotels are so beautiful. I definitely would not have imagined that.
The one I stayed in was very good and there are lots of international big brands near the port Its clearly a working city rathet than a tourist destination but there was enough to see that enticed me there, eg the beautiful mosque.
I’ve wanted to visit Casablanca for as long as I can remember! It looks like such an interesting mixture of the past and present. Walking through the city seems like a great way to really see all the beautiful buildings – especially the mosque! I would definitely indulge my cinema nerd side and head to Rick’s cafe. There’s something amusing about watching Casablanca in Casablanca.
Watching Casablanca whilst in Casablanca was such an unexpected highlight for me. These are the little unplanned things that suddenly become memorable afterwards and add value to the trip. the Cafe even made it worthwhile for themselves as I ordered another coffee to ensure I watched the film to the end!
I only watched the movie late last year and loved it. The city looks amazing too. I think visiting a non-tourist town lets you see the real people and culture. i don’t really enjoy the resorts too much. Thanks for sharing. I will get there someday.
Casablanca is the biggest city in Morocco (although not its capital), so you do get a feel for how the locals live in a less touristy environment (for the good or bad that may seem). I’m like you in not enjoyed touristy beach resorts and try to avoid them.
I’ve heard mixed things about Casablanca. Although I love the movie, I was worried the city might disappoint, so I’m glad to read some of your accounts if it that make me realize it’s not bad, just different from most people’s expectations of Morocco. I’d still be interested in visiting, and good to know there is a mosque you can visit. The modern look against the traditional is very cool, although I guess you get that in some European cities too so I shouldn’t be so surprised
The Mosque in Casablanca is THE big thing to visit. Make sure you look up and arrange a tour inside as well as it is magnificent. The architecture, whilst on a huge scale (it is claimed to be one of the biggest Mosques in the world), is also quite elaborate in areas. The city has a commercial and business feel, more than the tourist towns of Fez and Marrakesh.
I spent over two weeks in Morocco, but I ran out of time for Casablanca. I must go back there to see this incredibly iconic city, especially since your article is fascinating and you give many tips on organizing a trip. I like the idea of going to Casablanca by train. The Kenzi Basma Hotel seems like a great place to stay. I would like to see Hassan II Mosque and “Ricks Café.”
I so glad I did this as a 3 city tour as I got to see three different sides to Moroccan life. It is worth the detour but I am also acutely aware that I should have stayed longer and seen at 3 more of Morocco’s lovely cities.
As soon as I saw the word Casablanca, it recalled the classic Bogart and Bergman film. We adore it and have seen it many, many times over the years. You’re right that no one actually says, “Play it again, Sam!” So Rick’s Cafe would be an essential visit. The Hassan II Mosque is remarkable for its architecture, as well as its dramatic location on the coast – I didn’t know that the minaret was the tallest in the world. Interesting that the Medina didn’t seem to be particularly inspiring. We very much want to visit Morocco and would absolutely want to ensure that Casablanca was a part of our trip.
Casablanca is worth the visit if you wat to see another side to Moroccan life. here you will see the business and commercial life more than the tourist life. Whilst it contained some shocking urban planning it also contained such unique structures as the Mosque and modern commercial district. It’s also well connected to the rest of the country by bus and train.
As a Moroccan, I’m always interested in other people’s perspectives of Morocco and I think you did a pretty good job summarising Casablanca. It is not a touristy destination as you say but it is authentic and one of the few places where you can still see the fusion of cultures that once co-habited in the city, the art-deco French design,the Jewish quarter and the Neo-Mauresque architecture. One area I would recommend is the Habous quarter where the royal palace is. It is far and you need a taxi to take you there but it’s one of the oldest and historically important neighbourhoods, it’s also very quiet and a great place to escape to from the noise of the city and enjoy a quiet afternoon.
I missed out on the Habous Quarter and to be honest didn’t know about it – pity. I noticed the art deco French design buildings a lot and several were beautiful, although in a dilapidated state of repair. I agree that Casablanca is very much a mixture of cultures and environments. I did like the modern business and high-end residential areas as a contrast to the older areas.
The Hassan II Mosque is very cool. I would love to see it with the 105 000 worshippers it can hold, that’s gotta be a sight! I love that so many mosques claim to be the biggest. I’ve actually never seen Casablanca but I will go to that cafe and watch in on loop for sure! Love that you consider it to be not too touristy.
Yes, a gathering of 105K worshippers would be quite a sight. Look up the Casablanca film – it’s such an iconic 40’s film and so good.
I have a huge fascination with train travel, combining a train journey with a fascinating destination made the beginning of this post make me curious about the trip right away. The contrast between the architecture and the modern is fantastic. Even though Casablanca isn’t exactly a tourist destination, it reveals a lot of the country’s identity and is an incredible city. I have never visited Casablanca, but I was really looking forward to it.
I am glad it has encouraged to to think about a visit to this intriguing city. It is one of the few Moroccan cities where you can see the juxtaposition of the old and new architectural styles. Like you, I love train journeys – my favourite form of public transport. Moroccan trains have developed well other the years and now are well rated in Africa.
As usual I enjoyed exploring alongside you on your walk around Casablanca. I appreciate your honest feedback and setting the expectations low, in terms of tourist-infrastructure and sights to see. Casablanca strikes me as a place that would make for a day trip and get a different perspective of Morocco (for those who seek out a break from the tourist centres and aspire to experience the local life and business working world). The modern developments reminded me a lot of the new communities they are building en mass in London, so no surprise when you learn where they seemingly get the inspiration from. If you were to go back and revisit Casablanca a second time, which areas would you go back to and check out if there have been any changes?
Carolin | Solo Travel Story
Casablanca certainly portrays a different Moroccan perspective to the traditional one that we know. It is clearly a business and commercial city. The Habous area is an area that has been highlighted to me as one of interest for its architecture and location of the Royal Palace. This is where I would head to experience something else about this city.
Casablanca is not at all what I envision Morroco looking like. It’s so modern for the most part with very little history. The mosque looks nice and it’s good that they do tours.
Casablanca is certainly different in that it is more of a business and commercial city than a tourist attraction. Given that, the Mosque is one huge attraction for teh city and world famous for its size.
I love that your feet are your desired mode of transport because nothing beats a good old mooch about! We’re big fans as well!
I was happy to see another BarryFind hotel; you have a knack for finding good hotels at decent prices. It seems to be a common theme worldwide, with hotels offering poor sounding. You’d have thought this would be an area not to skimp on.
Wow, Hassan II Mosque is really big. That surprised me a little. What a fascinating place to explore and beautiful photos.
Lovely to see that you enjoyed your meal and that it wasn’t too expensive. Rick’s cafe also looks like a cool place that needs to be visited.
Thanks for sharing.
I do a lot off research before booking hotels and so usually get good hotels of high quality at cheap prices – I love a bargain. Yep, noise is the one thing that hotels do keep forgetting about but I always carry ear plugs while travelling! Ricks Café was a fantastic find. In fact I would list it as a much visit in itself.