Slovakia – Bratislava

Bratislava, Slovakia

Bratislava is one of the smallest capital cities in Europe and only carrying its present name since 1919. The dominant feature of this city is the famous, big, turreted and walled castle, high above the city, illuminated gloriously at night. It sits next to the mighty Danube river and although it is often synonymous with stag celebrations by drunken Europeans, it is also a small, perfectly formed old city of pedestrianised streets, pretty buildings and atmospheric churches.

Here is an affluent city with a beautiful Presidential Palace near the centre and a great restaurant/bar scene. It is also the only place I have stayed in where my hotel room looked straight into the President’s garden across the street!

My trip to Bratislava.

Not much on this trip I’m afraid. It was part of a three city train trip from Vienna, Austria (see blog post here) and then from Bratislava to Budapest, Hungary (see blog post here).

If you need to know how to get from Vienna to Bratislava here is the link to my post on the train journey I took between these two cities. Click here for the link.

I somehow managed to lose many of the photos I took of Bratislava but there are enough here to give you a good impression of my travels. It was a two day trip in which it absolutely poured down with rain each day and I got so wet on just a small trip out of the hotel.

My umbrella was in constant use when walking into town from the great hotel I stayed in.

Where I stayed in Bratislava.

It was stylish, modern with huge suites for a very good price. I would recommend the Loft Hotel, (click for info here), as it was superb, with a great country kitchen styled restaurant and bar and so near the centre, being just behind the Presidential Palace.

The rooms were very spacious and modern and our studio up on the top floor was so comfy and homely. As I said the view from out window was on the Presidential Palace opposite and its trees and gardens. Service was good and they gave loads of information on what to see along with a city map.

Presidential Palace

The Presidential Palace, called Grassalkovich Palace, was just down the road from us and each day we passed by it, to and from the city. Built in 1761 for Slovak nobility, it later had many uses, including a military headquarters and culminating in a school. In his day the composer Haydn was a visitor to this building, invited to play by the nobles who owned the palace.

After the Velvet Revolution of 1989 it was totally renovated and reopened in 1998 as the seat of the President. The gardens to the side are public with a large imposing government office also sitting in its grounds. In front are several large modern buildings that juxtaposes with the historical building and there is an interesting modernist water fountain with a globe in the centre of the square.

The centre of Bratislava was accessed via several pedestrianised roads. Many of the shops were newly renovated in what was clearly an attempt to reinvigorate the centre by the local authority in wake of the new wave of tourism.

Hope you love graffiti.

There was an obscene amount of ugly graffiti that had been sprayed or written onto the new fixtures. Although I understand this happens everywhere in the world there seemed to be no attempt to remove it from newly placed refurbishments. Perhaps the local authority did not have the funds but it was an eyesore in what would have been otherwise a charming city centre.

I have heard and seen photos that this has now changed and I can hopefully report better on my next visit. I have seen recent photos of Bratislava and the central area in 2019 and it now looks stunning. Lovely new pavements, refurbished buildings and all so gloriously colourful. I would now reconsider this city for another visit to do it the justice it now seems to deserves.

The Castle is dominant up on the hill and can be seen from many areas but because of the relentless rain we did not venture up the hill to it. We heard it was under renovation anyhow and not much could be seen.

St Martin’s Cathedral

We instead concentrated on the old part of town and headed for St Martins Cathedral, (click here for info). There is a huge dual carriageway directly in front of the site and it leads to a nearby huge modern bridge which really spoilt what should be a peaceful setting.

The Cathedral inside was however beautiful with ancient walls and decorations and well worth the excursion. Inside we saw a beautifully decorated music book at the altar area for all to read.

Old Town area.

Around the Cathedral is the old part of town with its narrow roads, old and sometimes dilapidated buildings. These buildings were  just crying out for refurbishment and had a real atmosphere of the past.

Main Square, Hlavne Namestie, Bratislava.

The Town Hall is set in a pretty square with a Jesuit Church to one side. There is a small Palace building on the other and the French Embassy on another. In the square itself was Roland’s Fountain with a statue of Maximillian to one side – a very picturesque and well preserved area.

Restaurants are everywhere so do not worry about finding somewhere to eat! Walk along the main central area and they are everywhere. They include coffee shops and bars and are somewhat encroaching onto the walkways in their efforts to attract customers.

There is a main thoroughfare, bordered by trees, that has the National Theatre at one end and leads to the Holy Trinity Column monument at the other. Divert off this street down to the water way for a spectacular view of the River Danube. You can look towards the border with Austria on the horizon.

Well, that was a short but very wet visit to Bratislava. I really hope to come back one day in better weather that allows me to get around the city more. Hopefully the castle will have finished its restorations and be ready for a full visit next time.

Sept, 2014.