North Macedonia – Skopje

Skopje 

I visited Skopje as part of my week trip to here and then onwards by bus to Pristina in Kosovo a few hours away. Click here for the Pristina post

The cities are so close to each other and so easy to travel between that I would definitely advise anyone visiting one or the other of these two cities to consider adding on the trip to the other.

Both can be seen in a couple of days, and if you travel between them by coach over the mountains you get to see the countryside of this area of the Balkans too.

A short history of Skopje, North Macedonia

Skopje is the capital of North Macedonia and pretty much everything revolves around this city, It is the political, cultural and economic hub of the country as well as being its largest city. At the last count 18 years ago over half a million people lived here – 25% of the entire population of N. Macedonia!

If you really want to go back in time to find out the city’s first origins, then artefacts found in the Old Fortress (commonly called Kale fortress), date from 4,000 BC. However it starts as something tangible when it is named as Scupi and becomes the capital of the Dardania area in 200 BC

Like most places in the Balkans, it was captured by the Romans in the 1st Century and was a military fort.

Slavs captured it in the 6th Century, destroyed it and it remained derelict until the Byzantines came along in the 8th Century. They recognised its strategic importance near the river and rebuilt the city.

Again, Skopje’s history follows that of all the Balkan cities in that for the next 1000 years it was fought over, captured, lost etc in succession then by the Byzantines, Bulgarians (who made it their capital), Normans from France in 1081 and finally the Serbs who declared it as its capital in 1346. The King of the Serbs was actually crowned in the city and it flourished.

The Ottomans took over in 1392, calling it Uskub and keeping it for 500 years and it generally prospered under their rule. It went through a “Golden age in the 1600’s and had a population of 60,000 – considerable for that time. Many of today’s Mosques and the Old Bazaar area were constructed at this time although Christians were forced to convert to Islam or flee the city.

Disaster struck in 1689 when the Austrians invaded the city, ousted the Turks and burned the city to the ground. The city was in ruins and most of the population had fled, It did recover …. slowly, yet by 1835 its population rose to only 10,000.

It wasn’t until 1871 when the city was invested with new religious buildings that it stabilised itself. The railways arrived two years later and with it the economic growth it needed. Christians returned and in by 1877 the city was large enough to be named as a regional capital by the Ottomans. By 1905 it hit the dizzy heights of 32,000 people – still only half its 1600’s population.

Liberalisation of the Ottoman Empire (who still controlled the city) eventually led to uprisings in 1908 and then the onslaught of the Balkan war  in 1912 (just before WW1. Whilst the Ottomans were expelled from the area by the combined Christian forces infighting occurred and eventually the area became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes – the forerunner of Yugoslavia.

Serbian influence was great now and expansion of the city and economy followed. Yet again that all was squashed with the Nazi invasion of Yugoslavia and eventually Skopje and N. Macedonia. 4,000 Jews were deported from the city to Treblinka concentration camp, never to return

The Jewish Holocaust Museum near the National Theatre in the city centre has a poignant statue outside remembering that deportation .

We all know about Yugoslavia, the rise and eventual fall of Tito, but under his rule, Skopje expanded enormously. Major national institutions were built there and agricultural and industrial growth expanded.

Disaster struck in 1963 with a major earthquake that killed over 1,000 and left 70% of the population of the city homeless. The city took 20 years to rebuild itself and its modernist skyline of concrete apartment blocks and grid pattern streets mainly date form that time. Massive manpower emigration from the countryside to help in the reconstruction boosted the city so much that by 1981 it housed over 400,000 people!

The country gained its independence in 1991 and the new city planning and reconstruction, called Skopje 2014, brought the Greco-Romano style buildings and oversized statues into the city as a beautifying aspect. They are still here but attract various complimentary or derogatory comments still.

Personally, I see the abundance of oversized, roman columned and portico buildings, as a bit out of place and slightly Disney-esque. The over-abundance of statues in the area, especially those that are monstrously big compared to their adjacent buildings also look out of place. However, I agree with the fact that they are beautiful, hail a new view of the city and certainly better than the concrete functionalist buildings they replaced. They leave me in two minds but certainly provided me with a captivating exploration of them.

Where to stay in Skopje

There is generally a good variety of hotels in Skopje.

If you are looking for the best then the Marriott on Macedonia Square, right in the centre of town, with its 5 star rating will be top of your list. It’s an international hotel with the highest standards (I dined in their restaurant one night so can say it definitely is that). The rates however are much less than you would pay for that quality in many European cities.

There are a few other Global brands in the city but they are limited. The other global branded 5 star hotels include Double Tree (a little bit further out from the centre), Holiday Inn, and Marriott in the centre. There are local 5 star hotels with impressive reviews too.

The is a plethora of great 4 star hotels, so look at the details as to exactly where they are and their facilities

Best Western and Ibis come in at 3 stars along with other centralish 3 star hotels. I found rates in Skopje much less for the quality, compared to many European cities. I get the feeling that mass tourism and demand have yet to influence prices, so get there quick!

The city is flat – ok, there is a rising slope in the Old Bazaar and the Fortress but otherwise its easy to walk around with wide pavements and safe streets.

Where I stayed in Skopje

As usual I did lots of research and using the facts that I wanted a hotel centralish (but quiet), of a good standard and at a cheap price for the value, I chose the 4 star Hotel Opera House.

It’s located just 6 mins walk from the river and central area. I guess it gets its name from the fact that the Opera House is probably the nearest well-known building to it a few mins away. The price was very cheap for the standard and it proved to be a good choice in many ways.

Rooms were modern, comfy, clean and quiet. The balcony was large although due to it being January and cold it got little use from me. I had a view across the rooftops to the nearby fortress walls and at night with them being lit up, was quite a sight from all windows and balcony.

Wifi was excellent and although I had an issue with the TV not working, they resolved it immediately – something with the remote control not being synched to it properly.

The room was a suite and was less than I would pay usually just for a room. The lounge with TV and desk was in a seperate room and both the bedroom and lounge had access to the huge balcony that had chairs and a table to relax outside on.

Staff spoke excellent English and were helpful, especially when it came to recommendations for places to eat.

Breakfast was a quite simple affair – plenty of it but it could do with a little more variety and for me a few more of the cereal/pastry type foods I am used to as they tended to be rather Macedonian types of food.

The only downside was that when I booked it says it has a restaurant and cafe (it still does). On my stay however the restaurant was closed for the week as reception says the serve meals daytime but not evening. There is a large bar however.

They were able to recommend the restaurant that was literally a 2 min walk down the street from the hotel, which was a great choice. One other downside was that one morning they apologised that the water boiler broke but was being mended and thus no hot water available that morning – a cold shower was not inviting in January. It was fixed by the afternoon. They offered free drinks etc in the bar in the evening as an apology, which lessened the blow somewhat.

Click here for their link on Expedia

The walk from the hotel to the main central attractions is around 5 mins – Skopje is so small that most hotel put you within 10 mins of the city centre where most attractions are. The higher floor balcony views are quite spectacular as the main building are lit up at night so a colourful vista is seen over the rooftops.

The bar /restaurant area has both indoor and outdoor areas – unfortunately North Macedonia still allows smoking inside buildings so you will have to put up with the cigarette fumes inside.

They also arranged for a car to pick me up from the airport at a good price.

Old City House Restaurant, Skopje

As the hotel restaurant was not open, reception advised me of the Old City House restaurant a 2 min walk along the road.

The building is indeed just like someone’s traditional house from the outside. It even has a high stone wall to one side so it even looks somewhat private.

It faces Boulevard Philip II of Macedonia and is really inviting from the outside with its big wood windows, stoned walls, tilled roof and trees/bushes in the courtyard entrance area.

The receptionist said that the food was very traditional and good and I read reviews that gave it great praise – it indeed was exceptional.

He did say that for Macedonians the prices were high as it is known as one of the best restaurants in the city. Fortunately for a Brit like me, the prices were actually on the low side for such quality and style.

Stews and meats in big portions, tasty, flavoursome and large. The starter of meats they brought me was enough for two and the main course beautifully arranged in an oven clay pot. I had local cheeses and breads to finish with a couple of local beers and again, divine.

Service was quick and friendly but their English was more broken but we managed.

Click here for their website and online reservation system

This house was originally built in 1836 and has been in the same family’s possession for 6 generations. The inside does have a homely feel as higher windows look out from the original building with the lower area sensitively added later. The somewhat mis-mash of design stems from the fact that it was originally designed as a home not a public building which gives it a somewhat homely affair.

Tables and chairs are rustic and there was even a big oven type fireplace, burning logs to keep the place warm. There was a central feature (maybe too large) that incorporated a water feature, plants and pottery. Strange to see but it was certainly different and added a local feel to the interior.

The weird thing was the TV on the wall in one part playing (in mute) the, local news and football – it just looked out of place.

It was quietish on my visit but I have heard it gets very busy , especially at weekends etc so do reserve if you don’t want to miss this excellent restaurant.

How to explore Skopje in 2 days

To be honest Skopje is so compact that you really don’t have to worry too much about where your hotel is.

Unless you are planning to stay at the airport or some out of town Spa Hotel, the majority of hotels are within 15 mins walk of the city centre where most attractions are.

The Vardar River runs through the middle of the city and makes for a convenient splitting to see the sights.

North of the river

To the north is the Fortress (fairly extensive so will require a lot of walking, especially if you want to walk the walls with their extensive views over the city).The Old Bazaar area next to it, contains traditional Mosques and Churches, the Museum of Contemporary Art and a few minor museums. Further south but not beyond the river you will find the Opera House, National Theatre, Museums, majestic govt buildings and modern squares and monuments.

It can all be walked at a leisurely pace in a day or even less if you don’t want to enter into every museum etc you come across. I found just getting lost and following the maze of streets in the Old Bazaar area such fun. You don’t really get lost as its not extensive and it was part of the fun (I kept a map handy though!).

South of the river 

Here is the modern area of Skopje so the Parliament building, Presidential Palace, Warrior Park, the famous Macedonia Square and the warrior on a horse statue lie here. The city is more apartment and hotel blocks style and the modern chapel of Mother Teresa and the location of her birth is here too. There is an impressive Church here too and the statues that sit along the riverside on this side are worth a visit.

Skopje in eminently walkable – in fact the Old Bazaar and fortress are pedestrianised. Many of the squares and modern streets on the southside are too, so leave the thought of catching taxis behind. Buses will not be needed and the city doesn’t even have an underground Metro system anyhow.

For me, this was one of the great attractions of the city – I wandered by foot everywhere and my hotel was just minutes from most of these places.

Day one 

Ok, I have to give a little backdrop to what we are about to see in many parts of the city.

In 1963 Skopje suffered a catastrophic earthquake, 70 % of its buildings were destroyed or damaged. The quick and easy answer at the time was to rebuilt quickly and cheaply. Hence so many functional, bland concrete buildings went up. The result (like Pristina nearby) was a quite unattractive and plain cityscape, lacking creativity and beauty.

In 2010, the government decided to start a 4 year process of beautification of the city with a massive project called Skopje 2014. This basically envisaged the wholesale reconstruction of huge areas of the city, costing an eye-watering amount of money. Many objected on cost and social grounds (high unemployment and a faltering economy being the biggest reasons).

The project however went ahead. This meant that many new govt buildings, Museums and cultural centres, public buildings, theatres, commercial/local institutions/buildings, bridges and refacing of buildings took place on a massive scale. The ancient monuments eg the fortress and old squares were redeveloped, the Old Bazaar was renovated, fountains and parks refurbished and created. The list was endless – 136 refurbishment/reconstructions, 20 new buildings and 40 monuments was the rough final tally.

Statues and monuments filled the central area (I personally did wonder why there were so many – you virtually trip over them at every turn). It all happened during a period of rising Macedonian nationalism after their recent gain of independence in 1991. It was also a subtle attempt to “Macedonianise ” much of past history but hit obstacles with their neighbouring countries who also felt they were part of that history line.

The result of this costly project is pretty much what we see today. Do I Love it or loathe it? It’s hard to say not knowing what was there before.

Some buildings like the Mother Teresa House look bizarre and weird to me and not very reverential. Several of the statues on pedestals are massively oversized for their settings. Some like the Art bridge feel overly ornate and almost Disneyesque.

The placing of a clearly imitation basic design sailing boat from the 1700’s, next to new Roman style buildings with black glass windows just looked absurd.

Some however like the refurbishment of the Old Bazaar, Fortress and stone Bridge are beautiful and I really loved the return of antiquity to function. Certainly, the openness of the squares and the wonderfully airy and green parks were fabulous.

In general, I feel it was a success but I really wished they had been less ostentatious in some of the style of the buildings and created more understated, but creative monuments. The smaller street level, fun, bronze statues and creative artworks, worked better for me, than the gigantic over-the-top monuments to the past

Riverside area 

The banks of the River Vardar probably hold the most prominent buildings from this project. The large scale developments along its northern embankment are probably what most people will recognise as the iconic symbols of the city. The two squares connected by the Stone Bridge is probably one of the most memorable results of the project.

Macedonian Philharmonic Building

This brand-new building, opened to much fanfare in 2017, takes over from the older, plainer building elsewhere in the city.

It went 6 times over budget (the whole Skopje 2014 project was massively overbudget too), but most agree it is superior to the old one.

Its design is very different to the surrounding classical style of the nearby building (as well as the bunker -like Opera house next door. It is futuristic in its design but I did giggle inwardly to myself at first glance as it just reminded me of a large, grey sports bra, sat on glass walls. Maybe my wry sense of humour but I warmed to it eventually.

It has a 1,000 seater main hall and a small 310 seater function hall.

Sitting in front of Mother Teresa Square it is quite an imposing building in what is a cultural oasis – the Opera and Ballet House is next door as well as a couple of Museums across the way.

The Macedonian National Philharmonic Orchestra (naturally) resettled here when it opened, but recitals and performances of all types are given here.

Macedonian Opera and Ballet House

This building dates from the 1970’s and is definitely a prime example of the Socialist, functionalist concrete buildings so prevalent at the time.

Today it looks so dated and to be honest resembles a white concrete canopy with a large, flat, wide entrance area more akin to the entrance to a car park. There is a real absence of windows and features around the front eg tress, fountains, artwork etc. It is set to one side of the flat paved square and is desperately calling out for something to break up the white concrete monotony of its setting.

I would say it is one of the ugliest or most unimpressive Opera and Ballet buildings I have seen in the world. It’s so bland I would have missed it if I hadn’t seen it was on the map. However I have read that the performances are good and the tickets prices very cheap for such a venue, so it claws back its reputation there.

I suppose it doesn’t help that it is outshone by its next-door neighbour the Philharmonic Hall, which was part of the Skopje 2014 rebuild. Pity they did not rebuild the Opera and Ballet House too or at least try to remodel and beautify it.

The steps around here were in use by several skateboarders, crashing their way around – give it a few years and the steps will be all chipped and damaged by skateboarders if they don’t stop it.

Mother Teresa Square

This Square really needs some decoration. It has an historic and person-worthy name but it is big, open and flat. Some trees, a fountain, artworks or some other structure to break up the blandness and give it some attractiveness would be great.

The nearby colonnades have Greek-inspired bronze statues of toga dressed goddess-like figures. The arrangement is quite unique and allures to Skopje’s classical past.

The nearby Public Prosecutors office – again a new, classical Roman style building holds various plaques with quotes from Mother Teresa.

The plaques are conveniently in English too and the choice of quotes is beautiful. They refer to man’s need for love and help to others and epitomises Mother Teresa’s work in her life-time.

Stop a while and walk along the wall of the building reading each one as you go. They raise the spirit and show just how much the Macedonians revere Mother Teresa, who was born in this city.

The Square leads onto the wide waterfront promenade and it is here that you can look along the embankment at the newly built edifices in a Greco-Romano style.

The glass walls behind the ornate columns give away that the buildings are not from the long distant past and the cleanliness and perfection of the stonework also easily gives that away.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs building Skopje

I wouldn’t normally comment on a government building but the Ministry of Foreign Affairs here is eye-catching. It is one of the Skopje 2014 buildings and shows a regency revival theme in its styling.

The building is oddly taller than it is wide for this style and looks too thin. That alone gives away the fact it is not a genuine building of the 1800’s but adds to the general tone of the riverside development.

At night the waterfront buildings are lit up (see pics in end section of this blog). It thus creates atmosphere in what would otherwise be a dead area of the city at night.

dd

Public Prosecutors Building

Or the Public Prosecutor’s Office of North Macedonia and Directorate of Financial Police, to give it its full title.

Again this type of building would get no mention from me but it is part of the riverside development and is an interestingly shaped building. It is basically a rotunda shape mixing neo-classicism with post-modernism.

Another govt building from the Skopje 2014 project erected here in 2013, it stands as apart from the others. Its shape catches the eye and its standing at one end of the art bridge, gives it a focal point.

What I found hilarious here were the big paint splodges that had hit the entrance walls of the building.

Presumably someone was not happy with the prosecutors decision and had decided to make their views known by throwing paint balls at the building. To be honest, even though it was vandalism, the colours lightened up what was a very two-tone exterior.

Archaeological Museum of Macedonia

Opened in 2014 this museum contains over 6,000 pieces on three floors from the pre-history of North Macedonia to the Middle Ages.

It has paintings, mosaics, statues and glassware and a lot, lot more.

The contents are no doubt interesting and I did have it on my list to venture inside if I had enough time. This type of Museum usually doesn’t gain my interest, despite its cheap entrance fee so I skipped it for another day. Unfortunately, that day never came.

I’ve read glowing reports of its contents so if you have the time and inclination, pop in. It’s on my list for the next time I am in town.

It sits at one end of the Eye Bridge so if you want a perfect Instagram pic this is where to take one.

The building also contains the National State Archives and the Constitutional Court in another part of the building.

The Bridge of Civilizations or Eye Bridge

Another Skopje 2014 project. A new bridge that has 22 statues along its sides representing civilisations. It enhances the river view and is a good place to get a pic of the two bridges on either side of it.

I found it a little kitsch, the lamposts reminded me of a Disney film as they are new but made to look old. The statues are well created and it reminded of the Charles Bridge in Prague which has similar statues along its sides.

Why is it nicknamed the “Eye Bridge”? I have no real idea. I’ve heard several reasons. One is that there is an eye shape in the bridge sides to see the water through – I never got that. Another was the “eye” shape in the middle of its walkway. Again, didn’t get that. The middle section widens and is eye shape-ish but is that it?

If anyone know the real reason, let me know!

Art Bridge

This bridge is kinda similar to the Eye Bridge except the statues are from Macedonian cultural history. When I first relooked at my pics of the day, I struggled to see which bridge was which – the lamposts are the same and the balustrades similar.

The statues will probably mean a lot to Macedonians but not being up on my Macedonian cultural people, they were just pleasant statues to me.

The big difference being that the Eye Bridge widens in the middle and this one doesn’t.

Having seen all these bridges and buildings it was now time to move to the other end of the river and see the massive and most famous bridge of them all.

Stone Bridge Skopje

This structure is one of the best known symbols of Skopje. It even appears on the city’s flag and coat of arms.

Its origins are Roman. although we see very little of this as the Ottomans built this 12 arched, 214 metre long and 6 metre wide stone block bridge on their foundations in 1469.

The delicate watch tower at one end, built in the style of a Muslim Minbar, was reconstructed in 2008. Despite its age, the careful preservation of this beautiful low and long bridge, still makes it look relatively fresh today.

The Nazis planned to blow it up in 1944 to prevent the Allies’ advance but it never happened. One of its claims to fame is that the well-known Macedonian nationalist, Kaposh, was executed on the bridge in 1689. There is a plaque on the bridge that marks the spot.

The view from the middle of the bridge, with the river on either side, the two squares at either end and views across the river to the embankments and the higher fortress must be one of the best in town..

Take a look into the river on the right side as you are facing the fortress. Near one of the arch supports in the river are two statues. One about to dive in and one already in the water. According to the water level you will see more or less of them. A quaint little piece of modern artwork, the likes of which I’ve only ever seen in Singapore – quite unique!

The bridge is pedestrianised, despite it large size and the peace that affords, adds to the beauty of this ancient edifice.

Monument to Phillip II of Macedonia

This is again part of the Skopje 2014 project. It’s an imitation, Greek style, massive statue on a column in the centre of a fountain.

Controversy with Greece over calling it a statue of King Phillip of Macedonia lead to calls to drop the name…. but we all still know that is what it is. The surrounding buildings on one side are pseudo-Romano in style on one side, and modern on the other. A mixture, but it works.

The fountain was turned off – looks like for maintenance, when I was there.

King Phillip II lived 359 BC to 336 BC and was assassinated by his bodyguard. He led armies to conquer northern areas of Greece and the city state of Athens, performing a uniting act. His son went on to become Alexander the Great.

Ancient Macedon was mainly northern Greece and King Phillip was born, lived and died in what is now Greece. Macedonia’s claim to their history often centres around the physical location of that Kingdom..

These statues were all about the reclaiming of Macedonian heritage and history (too closely aligned with Greece for the Greeks’ liking however). The statue feels slightly too big and the fountains below would seem more at home in a huge city. due to their size. rather than one of the smallest capital cities in Europe.

The nearby open, grassed and paved area at least gave it some space to one side of the square.

Church of St Demetrius Skopje

Most of what we see today of the church dates from 1896, although it was built on the foundations of a 16th Century Church.

The first two Archbishops of the Macedonian Orthodox Church are buried here, as it was technically a Cathedral in their time. This title has now been relinquished back to a church.

Despite being damaged by the 1963 earthquake, it was extensively repaired and still holds service today.

A funny fact about this church – in 2012 the frescoes on the walls miraculously cleaned themselves overnight. The conservators could not agree how it happened so it was declared a “miracle”.

It sits next near to the big Phillip II column in the same square and, to be honest, you can’t miss it due to its 4 storey tall bell tower that looms over the area. Its pinkish/beige walls and terracotta tiled roof give it an almost Italianate look.

Standing alone it is a somewhat solitary looking church with a huge tree next to it – foliage is not a big feature in Skopje. For me the big part was the decorative interior.

The colours of deep reds, gold embossing and white stone floors really gave it a rich and almost Royal air.

Much of the walls is covered in carved painted panelling and woodwork. Gold urns and clerical artwork is present. Several framed artworks of portraits of saints stand on pedestals and you are free to walk around anywhere.

Several large glass and gold chandeliers hang from the ceiling but the interior is quite dark and sombre.

A huge spiral staircase stands prominently to one side of the centre with painted metal fretwork walls. It is quite a work of art in itself and leads to a raised pulpit way above your head.

There is no access for visitors up this staircase. A mezzanine floor with carved wooden walls sits high up and what the church lacks in floor space, it gains in use of the above heights. Incense and the smell of heavy fabrics lay in the air and I was able to wander almost on my own.

dd

Macedonian Holocaust Museum

I never got to go inside the Holocaust Museum. I thought I’d pop in on the way back but my route eventually took me another way.

The building is quite a modern glass and stone design with a bronze memorial outside showing suitcases and shoes of departing children. The very unique feature of the museum was that it was built from the sale of the victim’s property and funds, where there could be found no heir to pass them on to.

It holds mainly photos and documents of the events but also an original train wagon that was used to transport the Jews to Treblinka.

The Nazis deported and murdered almost the entire Jewish population of Skopje which is now reduced to a few hundred from the original thousands. In total over 7,000 Macedonian Jews were sent to Treblinka concentration camp to be murdered.

Museum of the Macedonian Struggle

Another relatively new building despite its grand style. It was opened in 2011 and it covers the period of the struggle of the Macedonian people from the times of the 15th Century Ottoman invasion, to its declaration of independence from Yugoslavia in 1991

It contains exhibitions detailing that struggle through countless invasions and occupations and even the Communist rule period.

Exhibits in the many rooms display a huge number of painting, wax figurines and scene setting with furniture, artefacts and military paraphernalia. Documents and maps feature a lot and you leave with a distinct impression that the fight for independence was long, fierce and bloody! Click here for its website – remember it is closed on Mondays though

Macedonian National Theatre

The origins of the theatre date from a relatively early date of only 1945. However what you see today is a rebuilt one – apparently very similar to the old one – after it was destroyed in the 1963 major Skopje earthquake.

Seating around 730 people it has a long history with over 8.000 performances to date.

The interior is a resplendent show of gold and red velvet, plush, padded seats and is actually quite ornate. It certainly gives the feeling of a national institution of the art of acting.

The exterior is very grand, an almost French belle époque style despite its newness.

Outside are several comedy statues as well as a few more serious ones of famous actors.

Skopje Kale Fortress

This marvellously renovated fortress stands on a high hill overlooking the city and the River Vardar.

Its origins are around the 6th Century AD and was initially built from the stones of a nearby earthquake-ruined city of Roman Skupi. Emperor Justinian I of the Byzantine empire ordered its construction. It’s probably notable that the fact that he was born not far from here, may have been an influencing factor.

Its locally called the Kale (which means fortress in old Turkish).

Fortified further in the 10th and 11th centuries it was a Bulgarian Empire capital

In 1346 Stefan Dusan had his coronation in the fortress and crowned himself Emperor and created Skopje as his capital.

Much of the fortress was destroyed, like so much of Skopje, by the 1963 earthquake and it wasn’t until the millennium that renovations and reconstruction started.

Artefacts here found woodwind instruments and clays pots that dated to around 3,000 BC during the renovations in 2007. Proof the hill was occupied long before the fortress was built.

The walls have now been fully restored and are impressive in their size and outlook over the city.

The flat interior land is immense with a small museum and walk ways but what you should not miss is the walk along the wall tops.

This walkway is long, well maintained and gives amazing views down to the city buildings and river below. I walked the entire length and it took around 30 mins. There are steps and declines along the way and the chance to visit a few interiors of the turrets. It was certainly one of the best 30 mins periods I experienced in Skopje and you must try it.

My day was a little foggy so I could see most of the city below but the low sun on the horizon kept me from taking many shots outwards towards the land below and into the glare of the sun.

Towers and gates are all here and even some of the ruins of pervious foundations of buildings bit there are not many habitable buildings surviving.

The fortress can be seen from most places in the city, looming on the horizon. A great viewpoint is from the stone Bridge as you see the walls and several towers in one shot and the curvature of the fortifications as they snake around the side of the hillside.

Mustafa Pasha Mosque

This Mosque is old! Built in 1492 by Coban Mustafa Pasha, the Vizier (prime minister) of the ruling Ottoman Sultan of the time. It was restored to its glory in 2011 but is actually pretty much intact from when it was originally built. It sits in one part of the Old Bazaar area of Skopje just a little way from the exit from the fortress.

As was common at the time the Mosque is built on the foundations of a previous mediaeval church. The Vizier is buried inside the Mosque and his daughter is buried in an adjacent tomb outside.

Non-Muslims are not allowed in, so I was not able to get any interior pics – pity as I had heard it was quite well decorated inside.

The Mosque has a beautiful small garden of bushes and trees in front with a Turkish style pavilion. To one side is a small but creative rose garden.

More in the Old Bazaar area

This area contains so many more museums and buildings that you could spend a whole day here just visiting these. Here nearby in the Old bazaar area is the Military Museum, the Museum of Macedonia, the National Albanian Theatre and yet more Mosques and churches

The Museum of Contemporary Art is right in the fortress grounds up an incline. I visited it in its concrete modernist style typical of the period (it was opened in 1970).

This small museum was very much a glass, white concrete and steel style building. Whilst small, it did have a few gems of well-known artists from the 1950-70’s eg Picasso, Masson, Leger and Calder which are among my favourites . The majority of the space is unused and it feels rather empty for an art gallery. Several temporary exhibitions were on display at the time, but of little interest to me.

Strangely no photography is allowed inside – something I’ve never come across before in an art gallery, so I have no pics to show. If you are passing by, it’s interesting but not worth a trip in itself.

Skopje Old covered  Market 

At the end of the Old Bazaar area is the covered market. Full of locals going about their business buying and selling, it was a hive of activity.

Here everything was being sold and bought  -fruit n veg, textiles, technology, clothes, shoes and household goods. They even had local snack bars and a few currency exchanges. As I wandered I got many people’s attention. Probably because I was taking a few pics and looking at stuff rather than buying caught their eye.

I was clearly the only tourist there, of the hundreds that were shopping and I guess the market doesn’t attract many tourists, I loved its activity, seeing prices and the excellent farm produce

I did see two guys notice me and said something between them, one then looked back at me and said “Americani” to the other – nope, but close.

Clearly the currency exchanges were there for people who were working abroad and bringing in foreign currency to change. They were not set up as offices more just a counter through a large window,

Funnily enough, I did need local currency and was able to change some Euros for Macedonian Denar and I checked their advertised rate on the board. Surprisingly it was better than the bank rate (maybe black market), I had seen advertised in town and had no fee either. I exchanged my Euros and counted them back out when he gave them to me and was happily reassured that I did get the correct rate (no tourist lower rate).

If you want to see city life away from the mall or paved streets of the central area, come here for a very different scene.

Skopje Old Bazaar area

So, if you think this area would be just a few streets full of stores selling tourist trinkets in a pseudo-ancient environment, think again.

This is the Ottoman or Turkish area of the city where a high percentage of the Muslim population of the city trade, work and live.

Its origins are in the 12th Century and under the 15th Century Ottomans, this was the main commercial area of the city. It hit its peak during the 16th and 17th centuries and was known as one of the biggest Bazaar area in the whole of the Balkans.

The streets are relatively wide i.e. not alleys as I’ve seen in many Arabic bazaars and they are open to the sky, not enclosed. The atmosphere was great. Small family shops selling everything , with one area in particular being the silver and gold selling zone.

The store fronts were fabulously merchandised – see the pics – and I just had to stop and admire each one as I walked by.

Each time I stopped, I was expecting to be pounced upon by the salesman encouraging me in for a good price, but no. I wasn’t hassled at all. That made the experience even more delightful and actually enticed to look further. If I was in the market for some silver jewellery etc I would have defo walked in.

Stores had amazing manikins dressed in local silks and traditional robes, food stores were well displayed and even the bars looked enticing – again not hassled to come in, as I had experienced in many other countries.

What was so charming was that I noticed that it was locals in this area – again, was I the only tourist around? Ok, it was off peak season but the weather was good, yet still I never saw an obvious non-local for hours.

Locals were in bars drinking and their styles were definitely unique and traditional, many with outside seating.

One street was certainly trying to be different. It had hung multicoloured umbrellas from cables above the street to give an artistic feel to the area,

Whilst this was not unique – I had seen this concept many times before, including in a city I lived in, in the UK – it was eye-catching.

Ok, if you look closely you can see that some of the umbrellas needed repairing and reattaching. I still liked the concept that someone had tried to be a little different, even if it meant copying something they had seen elsewhere.

The buildings in the old bazaar area were mainly just one storey high, clearly the first floor was a flat where presumably the owner lived above the store. The street flooring has obviously been renovated sometime in the recent past but still looked in keeping with the area. The whole area was pedestrianised and clothes and food stores were mixed in with small offices, many Mosques and even a few travel agencies.

This area was the one place that really stood out for me. It was like no other bazaar area I had visited, it had atmosphere and history, a local feel and non-touristy (everything I love in a visit).

You can use a map, but I just spent an hour wandering and getting lost. It’s not that huge that you will not actually get lost, but just go with the flow here.

Cifte Hammam Museum

These bathhouses, dating from a 15th Century hammam, were in use up until 1915 and its name means “double baths”. This was because it had two identical wings, one for men and one for women.

It has now been converted into a smaller gallery to the main National Gallery of Macedonia in the Daut Pasha Hammam that we will see later. It has been converted into a gallery with permanent and temporary exhibits.

Many of the permanent exhibits date from the 14th Century and the setting is quite unique. The restored hammam shows the different rooms and much of the old interior architecture in situ.

In fact, part of the gallery has an exhibition of artefacts and sculpture/stone blocks from the ancient hammam itself.

The huge domes and vaulted arches of the original building are all still in place and these almost become an attraction in themselves.

Light shines through from the small circular sky-lights, pierced into the ceiling and the embossed carvings on the wall and arches create an ancient atmosphere.

The exhibition I saw was of old Christian paintings and iconography from the 14th and 15th century. Hung on the old Ottoman walls of the Hammam, the dichotomy of that setting was not lost on me.

What did surprise me was that there was one attendant at the door to take the entrance fee, and that was it. No security anywhere else.

Several of the rooms (and there were many) are accessed via small doorways wide enough only for one person and once in the room I was alone and cut off from view of anyone. The devil’s advocate in me wondered how they would know if someone damaged a painting whilst in that room.

It was another unique experience – an art gallery of Christian works in an Islamic hammam now converted into an art gallery.

Skanderbeg Square

Here is the well-known Albanian warrior-leader’s statue. Skanderberg (thus the name of the Square) was a nobleman who was born 1405 and died in 1468 and lead numerous rebellions against the Ottoman expansion. He united the region, that today comprises most of the Balkan nations, to fight against the invaders.

He won numerous battles and is so revered in the region that there are statues to him (that I have also commented on, in my other posts on those cities), in Tirana and Pristina.

Suffice to say that he is of such huge historical importance that Wikipedia devotes pages and pages to his story and deeds, so nip over to there to read all about him.

The square itself, whilst housing the statue, also houses a vast mural from the Communist era on a wall. If you want a quick synopsis of North Macedonia in pictorial form, of its history, here is the place to see it, complete with famous people.

It’s very colourful and tells a lot of the history of the area and its politics and worth a closer study if you are in the area,

Daut Pasha Museum

Like its smaller sister the Cifte hammam Museum a little further away in the Old Bazaar area, this building was originally an Ottoman hammam (bathhouse).

It was constructed by Daut Pasha (hence its name), a Vizier (leader of an Ottoman area) in the 15th Century.

Today, its 15 rooms, with 13 domes, is the main building of the National Art Gallery in Skopje and was opened in 1948.

Pic here is of the outside, as I never got to go inside. It closed early on the day I wanted to see it and was closed the next day. Memo to self – remember to check opening times and days in advance!

Day Two

I had seen one side of the river, that is the old part of town and it was wonderous- really found it so interesting.
Today I was to explore the other side of the town – the newer part. Wonder if it will excite me as much as the other side did?

Skopje Macedonia Square

I guess Macedonia Square could be called the centre of the city. It is certainly the largest and more resembles a vast open space than a traditional historic square.
It was part of the Skopje 2014 beautification of the city – the grand large scale building of public monuments and buildings

The thing that you just cannot miss here is the huge, and I mean huge, statue of the Warrior in Horseback. The warrior, saddled on a rearing horse, actually looks too big for the square. It dwarfs everything in the area and mounted on a wide circular platform atop a thick column, is as tall as many of its surrounding buildings.

The story goes that the statue is supposed to be Alexander the Great. When the dispute over the name of Macedonia as a country and the birthplace of Alexander embroiled the country with Greece, the statue changed name to appease Greece.

The whole square is full of other statues of Roman Emperors and ancient Kings in an attempt to beatify the area, However the huge flat screen public TV on one section of a building certainly detracted from that look.

Here is the luxurious Marriott Hotel in a prime city centre location. I ate here one evening and it was worth it (it was actually not that expensive, but then North Macedonia is not an expensive country).

Senigallia

This is by no means a major attraction in the city, but if you want something a little quirky and different then here it is.

This is a basic reconstruction of a 17th century sailing ship, moored on the river quayside, slap bang in the centre of the city.

It’s an 18 bedroom floating hotel with a large public restaurant. The novelty being that you can sleep/eat on a boat in the city centre.

The ship is not even particularly well designed – it clearly looks fake and simple, but if that floats your boat (pun intended), then this is where you should head.

The sight of an imitation sailing ship on the river next to the imitation Greco-Romano buildings there just looked too Disney-like or Las Vegas for me!

Mother Teresa Memorial House

The desire to commemorate Skopje’s most famous person – Mother Teresa – resulted in the building of this memorial house that opened in 2009.

For this who do not know, Mother Teresa was born as Anjeze Gonxha Bojaxhiu a few doors away from this house (there is a memorial plaque in a small garden commemorating the site).

She was then baptised in a church that once stood upon the site of the new memorial house, and lived in Skopje from 1910 to 1928.

She became a missionary nun and went on to become a famous charity worker/leader in the slums of Calcutta, India. She went on to win a Noble Peace prize, (the only Macedonian to ever do so), for her charity work and was eventually was made a Saint after her death in 1997 in Calcutta.

I warn you now, be prepared for a surprise. When I first saw it I stood shocked.

It may not be to everyone’s taste but it certainly is an unusual building. To me it looked like a cross between some Gaudi-esque fantasy and well …. Something that was put together by different people building different sections that did not refer to the other about what their style was.

Greenish glass, rocks, white stucco, an unbalanced overhang – it certainly is something different. To me it just dd not feel reverential or homage like, more like someone on drugs inventing bits of the building having forgot what style he made the other parts in the day before.

Harsh, I know but I just did not like it – unusual for me who adores creative modern works.

The gallery contains a copy of her Nobel award, documents in her handwriting and her recognisable white sari robe with blue stripe edging. There are numerous photos and statues of her

The basement is a multi-media centre for exhibitions, meetings and an amphitheatre. The upper area of the house is a chapel where masses are held on dates relevant to her life.

You can walk up to the house, as there is no barrier and through it via a flat arch and overhang and have a general walk round the outside unhindered.
Its set on the street opposite, 1960’s buildings and in a commercial area with stores nearby – surreal!

Macedonia Gate, Skopje

Another edifice of the Skopje 2014 project. Opened in 2011 this 21 metre high triumphal arch is supposed to celebrate 20 years of Macedonian independence. It has reliefs caved into its walls of Macedonian historical events and even has a souvenir shop and public lift to its rooftop.

Yep, you guessed it, there is a carving of Alexander the Great on its walls.

Again, it looks somewhat out of place – a Roman style archway next to modern buildings on either side.

Woman Warrior Park

Woman Warrior Park is particularly well supplied in the number of statues that it has, in this smallish park. The grassed area has a plethora of styles and images and a walk round passing by each one is the only way to take them all in. Some commemorate events, some important figureheads and others are just symbolic – especially the glistening woman warrior one.

The country. and especially Skopje. seems to fill its public spaces with numerous and sometimes large sculptures and statues and this park would confirm their love of or addiction to them.

However, the shade alone on a hot day should bring you here, as the greenery in the area is delightful

I couldn’t tell you what each statue or sculpture represents but they must have cost a lot to produce judging from their size and materials.

I noticed lots of locals here sitting on benches enjoying a snack or a rest in the open air.

Apparently, Skopje has some of the worst air pollution in any European city. Can’t say I noticed it at all and here there is definitely a respite from any pollution.

Assembly of the Republic of North Macedonia

Or Parliament for short!

This is a typical functionalist, block-shaped building of the time is was built – 1938. It was built for the republic of the time as an administrative building and even served as the Constitutional Court at one time.

After Skopje’s liberation in 1944 from the Nazi’s it was put back into use as the local govt building under Tito for the Republic of Macedonia and underwent extensive extensions in 1954 and again after the devastating earthquake of 1963.

1967 saw it finally extended with yet more halls and meeting areas and took on the shape we see today.

North Macedonian declared its independence in 1991 and every two year or so the interiors were refurbished and remodelled as funds and time allowed. It was even renovated as part of the Skopje 2014 project.

It sits facing the Woman Warrior park – still in its 1930’s basic, functionalist form in the beige stonework it always sported. It can look a rather glum building on a grey day like today, but certainly carries a sense of authority and importance in its setting.

Orthodox Cathedral  of Saint Clement of Ohrid

This is such an interestingly shaped church. It is the largest church of the Macedonian Orthodox religion. It’s actually a Cathedral but locally simply called the Congregational Church.

It took me by surprise – is it modern or old? The adornments and colours had a 15th Century look, but the dome and curved side arms made it look modern. It’s set in a paved open area surrounded by communist era 1960’s buildings, so again looks a little out of place.

It was actually finished in 1990 after 18 years of construction and was opened on its namesake’s 1150th birthday.

Interestingly there is a second church in its basement dedicated to the Holy Mother.

The interior gives away its age as you can see from the concrete pillars and white-washed walls that it is modern. The painted wood panelling however is extensive and richly coloured, full of depictions of saints and events.

The huge dome has a painted Jesus looking down on you and the walls are a myriad of mainly blues, reds and yellows. It’s all lit up by light flooding in from the base of the central dome.

The usual side chapels and framed depictions of saints adorn the area and a huge chandelier of 400 lights hangs from the centre.

The modern outside belfry holds three bells and the cute fountain in front was donated from the local Islamic community. There is also a large bronze statue of the Saint Clement himself to one side of the open patio area around the Cathedral.

Presidential Palace

Ok, I know where this Palace is but I don’t seem to be able to find much info on it.

It’s a rather grand white marble Romano style edifice, suitably palatial and set back from the road behind high protective black painted iron fences.

I couldn’t find anything about seeing inside and there was no obvious route to approach through the gates so I guess it’s not possible.

I thus saw it from afar, as it’s not far from my previous stop-off at the Cathedral of St Clements.

I walked towards the river and saw the imposing pedestals topped with lions that seemed to form a gateway indicator of the the palace along the main road. Crossing over the road I was able to wander the small adjacent gardens with a patriotic partisan memorial of soldiers and admire the place from one side.

A few other locals were walking nearby enjoying the outdoors with their toddlers and I noticed a grassy walkway down beside the river which I followed to walk under the nearby bridge.

This was virtually my last sight to see in the city and the walk back to the hotel would again take me through the city centre and across the Stone Bridge that I have visited before.

I now want to show here, as the parting pics of my visit, two things that I found unique and interesting about Skopje

Skopje Street statues

It felt like Skopje must have the highest number of statues per head of population. Everywhere I wandered I encountered bronze memorials, street sculptures and modern works of art. They were often in the grander style  that we have seen already but many were also patriotic statues on stone pedestals.

The sheer number was amazing. It was as if the city wanted to make this a feature that people would remember about the city – it certainly worked for me.

At times they could be a bit overwhelming – I found eg the eye bridge had probably too many on it and it just felt over the top. Many were clearly trying to make a statement by their size (a few I felt were just too large and overwhelmed nearby buildings).

However, many I found charming and a real addition to the streetscape. Ones with comedic musical instrument players just placed on a pedestrian street, entertained me, Others that cheered me up were of comedic characters posing to the audience

In all it was a delightful way of furnishing the city in something a little different and adding atmos to the area – I loved them.

Skopje at night 

Something else that caught my eye- and this time it was by night.

The main central buildings in the city are all lit up at night. Some were admittedly just lit up too much and almost glaring to see as the light simply overwhelmed the building in bright glare. Others were very creatively and artistically illuminated.

At times the building lights made street lightning unnecessary and it lit the walkway beautifully.

Others were lit with colour and mostly (but not all) conveyed a different impression by night than by day.

It was simply intriguing to see a city use light at night in such a creative way – I mostly really liked it,

My impressions of Skopje

I did really enjoy this city.

What impressed me most was its potential. The potential to have a clean, historic-centric city with the addition of newer buildings mostly adding to its beauty.

It was small and eminently walkable – two things I love about any city. Pedestrianisation was king and even the roads had wide safe pavements beside them.

The street art and statues were adorable (as I keep saying, however a few were just too over the top).

The Old Bazaar area was my favourite part of the city by far. Loads of pedestrianised streets to get lost in with an historical Ottoman atmosphere with stores, Mosques, Museums and markets – really loved it.

The Romano new build central area was ok, but a bit Disney-esque for me.

People were welcoming helpful and the store staff non-pushy.

If I am really honest, something that also made my stay so great here, was that for me the city was cheap. It is inexpensive to stay, eat and buy. Entrance tickets were low – I even came back with money I took to spend that I never got to use! A good sign in my book.

Get here quick, as no doubt people like me find it and spread the word and mass-tourism will arrive on the budget flights…. maybe I should I keep quiet about it then?

North Macedonia is encouraging tourism on a big scale so it will happen, I hope it maintains everything that I mention as attractive as ever  however.

Onwards from Skopje to Pristina, Kosovo by bus

This trip was also to include a ride to Pristina in Kosovo by bus

The two cities are only around 100 km apart and it just seemed so advantageous to take in the other place as well.

Online info about how to get between the two cities is pretty scarce. There seemed to be a train route but finding info on it was difficult. The train website kept coming up in non-English and I even read there isn’t actually a link …. who knows.

Bus transport was better – I found a timetable and a rough price guide and my ticket eventually cost about 10 euros  …. a bargain.

Despite the short distance between the two cities the bus journey takes between 2-2.5 hours on the schedule (mine took longer – around 3 hours. The route is across some spectacular mountain scenery although at the time I was travelling it was a very white wintery scene outside and somewhat foggy.

The bus station is fairly modern but not overly big. It’s located on Boulevard Kuzman Josifovski Pitu on the south side of the river. I could see it was a 20 mins walk from my hotel down a straight route, so I walked it. No problems there as the route has a wide pavement. It actually passes by a small shopping Mall which I popped into for a bit of excitement along what was a fairly boring urban landscape.

The bus station is located underneath the flyover part of the train station and looked a little like a bit of an afterthought structurally. Fitting it in under the platforms at street level in a strange wrap over roofed building.

The station itself has a big open waiting area with those aluminium non-descript chairs. There’s also an ATM, cafe, toilets, a couple of shops and even a currency exchange but it all looked a little dated and suffering from overuse but was clean and organised enough. The buses stop outside, mostly under the flyover at numbered stops and a large arrivals/departures board indicates which bus go where.

Don’t expect punctuality – I notice few arrived/left on time but within 20 mins of the published time was the rough norm.

Bus was ok, comfy enough  fairly busy and it was an easy process to buy a ticket at the counter. Busses leave roughly every hour so I planned to catch an early bus in case that was full I could catch the next one and still get into Pristina at a decent time.

There was no online booking available but my 12 euro ticket was excellent value.

Despite the short distance between the two cities, the bus journey takes between 2-2.5 hours on the schedule (mine took longer – around 3 hours, due to snow en route. The route is across some spectacular mountain scenery, although at the time I was travelling it was a very white, wintery scene outside and somewhat foggy, so I didn’t get the chance to fully appreciate it.

The border control was pretty basic. The guard gets on the bus, walks up the aisle taking passports, gets off, they get checked in 10 mins, he comes back on board and hands them back and on you go. This was quick  – I had been warned that the border can get busy and delays happen but it was a breeze for me.

I did wonder if the guard would take exception to my Serbian passport stamp (Serbia regards Kosovo, where I was crossing into, as a breakaway state and doesn’t recognise its independence). No problem however, and I even got a Kosovar stamp put in my passport as well!

Jan 2018

Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.