Serbia – Belgrade

Where does Belgrade get its name from?

Ok, let’s go way, way back in time, as Belgrade is known as one of the oldest settlements in Europe, if not the world. Evidence of settlement here dates even as far back as 7000 BC but the first name of the settlement was Singidun. This name was given to it by the Celtic Scordisci tribe around 279 BC, who inhabited the area on the headland between the Sava and Danube rivers. That name meant the fort (“dun”) of the “Singi” tribe, the previous inhabitants of the area.

When the Romans took over the settlement around 50 BC they continued the name in a Latinised version – Singidunum.

So when did it change to Belgrade? Well, the theory is that  When the Slavs under the Bulgarian Empire became the dominant tribe of the area in the 800s AD they changed the name from “Singi fort” to “white fort” in their own language i.e. “Beo” (white) “grad” (fort). The first record of the name Beograd (or pronounced as Belgrade in English) being used officially was in 878 by Pope John VIII.

There you have it Belgrade means “White fort”.

The city flag and coat of arms has the symbolism of the “white Fort” in its design. It depicts a white towered fort overlooking the river with a boat.

A quick history lesson on Belgrade

I’m going to be as brief as possible on this, as Belgrade is one of the oldest permanently inhabited settlements in Europe, if not the world. Talking about that amount of history can be lengthy so I’ll get to the important bits.

I’ve visited several other worldwide locations that have a similar claim i.e. Amman in Jordan and Larnaca in Cyprus, so it’s interesting to read up about this latest claim.

So, way back in history, evidence of settlement from stone age artefacts found here, date the settlements as 50,000 to 20,000 years old. That’s a long time ago!

Settlement proper though dates from around 6200 to 4500 BC, metal working and an ancient basic form of writing was found here.

The Singi tribe lived in present day Belgrade from around 800 BC. The area got its first recorded name when the Celtic Scordisci tribe kicked them out the area and actually named the area after their conquered people – Singidun- fort of the Singi. We’ve covered this bit already to let’s move on.

Fast forward to 22BC and the Romans took it over and built it up as an important town, renaming it Singidunum – still no mention of the name Belgrade as yet!  The Romans now built a stone fort – the remains of which can still be seen today in the Kalemegdan part of Old Town fortress area. Kalemegdan is old Turkish word meaning “fortress battlefield”

Personally I found the Roman walls section, albeit altered and added to over the centuries, one of the most impressive sections of the fortress. The walls are hugely tall, fairly uniform, still intact and thus form a magnificent scene to represent this era of Belgrade fortress.

Singidunum’s ultimate claim to fame was that the Roman Emperor Jovian was born here in 332 AD.

Successive invasions in the area after the fall of the Roman Empire meant the Huns captured it and virtually destroyed it in 441 AD. The next 400 years saw it destroyed and rebuilt several times by reconquering Romans, Huns, Byzantines, Avars Slavs etc – you name them, at some point the fortress was conquered by every invading tribe/kingdom in the region. Even the Crusaders arrived here in 1190.

Stephen Dragutin, regarded as the first Serbian King, received the city as a gift and ruled here in 1284. His successors built a citadel, towers and huge fortifications that are still on show today and the city flourished to around 50,000 inhabitants. The gates he built can still be walked through.

Quick fact – from 1427 to 1521 the Hungarian Empire acquired the city and called it Nandorfehervar (“Bulgarian white fort”). It was a short-lived name as the Ottomans with 250,000 soldiers attacked the city in 1521, completely razed it and expelled its inhabitants. They then built it up into the second biggest city in Europe, after Constantinople, in the Ottoman Empire, housing 100,000 inhabitants.

The city-fort has been destroyed and rebuilt so many times in history its surprising anything exists today!

In 1594, the Ottoman Vizier destroyed the revered relics of Saint Sava (founder of Serbian Christianity), on a raised area of the city. This was done publicly as retribution to a local uprising that was put down. Today the newly built Saint Sava Cathedral stands in the area as a commemoration.

For the next 200 years it was again fought over by Hapsburgs, Holy Romana Princes and Ottomans, each time being destroyed and re-built – there’s that theme again!

When do we get any sense of stability for Belgrade? – well, that essentially came after the successful second uprising by local Serbs against the Ottomans in 1815. Serbia achieved a rough semi-independence and Prince Mihailo Obrenovic ruled and made it his capital in 1841. He was assassinated in 1868 but the monarchy continued and it gained its full independence in 1878.

That stability however ceased when WW1 broke out and Belgrade was shelled, attacked, invaded, lost to the Austro-Hungarians, retook by Serb and French forces …. but a devastated city remained – that theme again! After the war, Belgrade became the capital of the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. It was renamed Yugoslavia in 1929.

Belgrade now experienced huge growth and grew into a major European city, with industry and culture taking the forefront. Huge river bridges, an airport, radio stations, public buildings and a growing population ensured its continued growth.

WW2 came and Belgrade was heavily bombed by the Nazis when its citizens rose up against its king signing a pact with Nazi Germany. The citizens installed a new king in the take-over which then led to Germany invading it and effectively slaughtering many of its citizens. A huge anti-Jewish mass murder programme was carried out.

It was eventually taken by the Russian Red Army after the war. Josep Tito as its leader, declared the Republic of Yugoslavia in 1945. Belgrade’s history then joins the rest of the evolution and disintegration of Yugoslavia.

Where to stay in Belgrade.

There are several areas in Belgrade that merit looking at depending on what you want to see in the city.

The area to the west of the city, across the river from the old town is a safe bet if you are after the top end 4/5 star hotels eg Hyatt, Crowne Plaza, Falkensteiner, Tulip Inn etc. These will be in the newer area, with its grid layout of streets and are much more business and spa orientated. However you are going to clearly be paying top notch for these hotels and you have to take into consideration the taxis fares to get into the city, across the bridge, some 4-6 km away.

However, you will also be much nearer the airport here for a quick entry and exit without having to go into city with its associated traffic jams.

There is a relatively good tram system that you could use for this area too and there is a light rail system that goes underground in the centre of the city. Belgrade doesn’t have an integrated Metro system as such, despite it being talked about, planned and funds allocated for over 50 years,

Secondly you could try the east of the centre giving you the Hilton, Metropol and many good  smaller hotels. This would put you close to the Saint Sava Church, Parliament and Tesla Museum. It does unfortunately also put you further away from the airport  and quite a way from the bus and train central stations

My preference would be central area of the Old town/main streets. The choice of hotels here is enormous from the opulent Moscow Hotel through to boutique hotels, apartments and lesser star hotels but of great value and comfort. It places you bang next to most of the main attractions and probably as close as you can get to the main attraction – the fortress.

The galleries and museums are here and the shopping and restaurant choice is fabulous. You are nearer the bus and train stations and the many bus/tram links and bang in the most pedestrianised area of the city. Prices for central hotel (smaller and varied styles) are very good and although I usually avoid city centres because of noise, I did stay here and found it actually very quiet.

Where I stayed – Feel Belgrade Aparthotel 

I did quite a bit of advance research online, (as usual for me), to find the best placed and priced accommodation for my 3 days in Belgrade.

The best offers were coming from more central hotels. Whilst this was good for being near most of the sightseeing places I am always concerned with city centre hotels for the traffic and general street noise (bars etc). The place I chose for the price and what looked like amazing apartments was on a side street however. It proved to be extremely quiet and a fabulous choice.

The apartment block is situated on Lomina Street, Number 44  (Feel Belgrade Aparthotel). The company has other apartment blocks in the city so make sure you chose this one.

These apartments are HUGE. I got a two bedroom one as the one bedrooms were all taken and the price was so cheap. I was wary of the cheapness but in truth they are amazing – clean, modern, very comfy … HUGE … and in a renovated building. The apartment’s lounge/diner was bigger than my whole apartment in the UK!

The furniture was great – big comfy sofas, big TV, big modern kitchen with everything you would need to even live there a while. I was very impressed when I walked in and absolutely loved it. Size and value were along a 5-star place, wifi was great and the whole apartment was scrupulously clean and well maintained.

I’ve rechecked the website and the apartments have all been totally refreshed and are even better (they were pretty good to start with), so I would have no problem recommending these.

They are located just a few mins walk up from the bus station, which is also where the easy bus link to the airport leaves. The Parliament is 7 mins away and the main shopping areas/ museums 10 mins walk – excellent location

To top it all the apartments actually have a small office at ground level where you check in. No confusing passing of door codes via email on arrival. The office also arranges all type of sightseeing and guides too if you need them – I didn’t.

The receptionists were all very professional and helpful and spoke excellent English. They allowed me to store my bags pre-check in and held them for me after check out for my evening flight home.

If you want an excellent super-modern, comfy, clean apartment near the centre for a very reasonable price for the quality, then this is the place to stay. Check them out on Expedia  or Click here for their official apartment website

Let’s go see Belgrade

My arrival in Belgrade was after a roughly 4.5 hour bus journey from Zagreb, Croatia, so I arrived a couple of hours before check in time. The receptionist however was ready to welcome me and effectively took all my details and got me registered. She offered tours and a guide if I needed, which I didn’t and gave me a map of Belgrade.

They were happy to hold my bag until I returned much later and then it would be a simple matter of just picking up the key and going straight to the apartment.

My phone map came in handy as it also showed cafes and bars en route and I wanted to get a bite to eat at some point. I use the phone app maps.me, click here for info. I find this app so helpful as it not only shows streets but also pedestrianised lanes and step ways between levels which Goole maps etc do not.

Instantly I could see that the route I wanted to take, if by car, would be circuitous as it involved going up a level on the city street plan. Nearby were steps that led up to a terrace that would halve the distance needed to walk – I love my maps.me app. It also uses no data, just GPS so costs nothing, except battery power. The park terrace was were I was to start my first glimpse into Belgrade itself.

Pioneers Park

This park was previously the gardens of the adjacent Old and New Royal Palaces. Those buildings are still here but now are Belgrade City Hall and the President’s Palace respectively.

There are two smaller parks attached. One directly between the two ex palaces called Andricev park with a formal layout and benches. The other is a terraced one called Devojacki Park with a statue of Tsar Nicolas II.

The Communists, who were victorious in Serbia in WW2, removed the palaces’ walls and opened the areas up as public parklands. Pioneer Park also contains artworks and statues.

These are very green oasis’s in the city centre and if you want a long and peaceful walk or jog, here is where to come.  It has an interestingly shaped fountain, several commemorative statues and plenty of benches. If you really want you can even extend that walk, as I did, to encompass the nearby Tasmajdan Park.

Kajmakcalan observation post

A curious but poignant monument in Pioneers park is remarkable. Blink and you may miss it, or think that this it is just a decorative mound in the gardens.

In WW1 the Serbian army were in a battle on the Greek/North Macedonian border against the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The then King of Serbia and the chief army officer had an observation post on Kajmakcalan on the mountains. From here they saw the battle that cost the lives of 5,000 soldiers but they were victorious. The battle is considered one of the largest in Serbian history.

The monument here is that actual observation post that was brought here in 1929 and re-erected in situ. It was then shown to the public in 1945  when the nearby Royal Palace garden walls were removed to turn the area into a park. The observation post is a small symbol as a reminder to the great heroism of the Serbs,

The stone fortification also has commemorative plaques on its stone walls, to all the generals who participated in that battle front.

It’s a small but quite unique little monument.

There are several building of merit that line the edges of Pioneers Square. Let’s start with some a little Royal!

Old Palace or Stari Dvor Belgrade 

This was the Palace of the old Obrenovic Royal Dynasty who rued Serbia at various times in the 1800’s.

The land here was originally marshland that was drained by a businessman in order to build his private house here. The Obrenovic Royal family bought the house as their residence and  built a small palace next door in 1858.  In 1882 a new even bigger palace was designed and built (knocking down the prevoius small palace).

The royal family resided here with their officials. Remember, as I said before, the present Pioneers Park was their own private walled garden entered through ceremonial gateways until 1945.

Both world wars severely damaged the building as it was bombed and then restored twice each time. The last restoration works altered its appearance and it eventually came back into use in 1947 but not as a palace! Communism had taken over the country and it was initially the National Assembly building. Then in 1962 it was converted into Belgrade’s City Hall and remains so today.

I came back later in the eve one night and realised that the all the buildings in the area are gloriously lit up at night. I took a few pics but if you get the chance, do revisit the park area at night, to see the creativity of the lights and the atmosphere it produces.

New Palace or Novi Dvor Belgrade

Upon the accession to the Yugoslav throne of the new king in 1903 after the assassination of the old one, he wanted a new palace constructed. The Old palace was, in his mind, unsuitable for Royalty so in 1911 the construction of the new palace began, literally at the opposite end of the then Royal gardens (now Pioneers Park).

No sooner had it been finished in 1914 than it was heavily damaged in WW1, which started in the same year. It wasn’t till the restoration were complete in 1922, after the war, that it became an inhabitable Royal Palace again and the royal family moved in. They stayed until 1934 when they moved to the suburbs to a newer building and the Palace became a prestigious and well-known Museum in Europe.

After WW2, with the change of government and eradication of the monarchy the building became an administrative office of the new Republic. The walls around both old palaces were removed and a new Government administration was set up in the Parliament building across on the opposite side of the now park.

In 1953 it underwent some big structural changes that altered its appearance (those huge two-storey columns along one side facing the old palace was the biggest alteration. It was then the assembly building for Serbia, one of 6 Republics within Federal Yugoslavia.

Today it houses the offices of the President of the independent nation of the Republic of Serbia.

Amazingly I could walk up to the front door and walk alongside the building. There were a few guards around but they were not interested in me being close by and I got some good close up shots of the building. I did, however note that the were many CCTV cameras all around the building – probably all watching me!

Parliament Building Belgrade

The last building to see that lines the edges of Pioneer Park was the actual Parliament Building. Its official title is House of the National Assembly of the Republic of Serbia. Let’s just keep it short and call it Parliament!

Its was built in a neo classical design and was originally conceived in 1891, but work did not begin until 1907, due to delays in its design. It was finally finished 29 years later in 1936 ready for its first session.

The Russian-Serb interior designer modelled everything even down to the door handles.  Thus it can be said that the interior is definitely the work of one man.

I could not get up close. In fact there were anti-protest style barriers all around it so I got a pic from across the road. I had read that its interior contains offices, halls, a 60,000 book library and many artworks. Many of these works – paintings and  sculptures were stolen in the 2000 uprising against the government when crowds stormed the building, also causing damage to the structure itself.

You can go inside the building but only on a pre-booked tour available online. Click here for their website to book and info

In the eve it is creatively lit up along with the other buildings on Pioneer Square and again worth a visit back in the dark to see its magnificence.

Constitutional Court and Central Post Office

Look out across the street from Parliament and you will see a monolith of a building, classic Stalinist style in heavy concrete and functionalism. They sit just off the square in one corner facing the Parliament side-on.

My 3 days in Belgrade was accompanied by cold, very grey and misty weather. I struggled to get decent outdoor pics often. with such bad light and hazy atmosphere. Pity as there were some excellent landscape pics I really wanted to get in.

This is a mixed-use building as it houses the Constitutional Court and the Central Post Office. Whilst they both suffer from that very overbearing, plain, rationalist form, at night they are lit up splendidly. Again another reason to drop by the Pioneer Park area at night as all the buildings are decorated in bathed light – this time in colours!

St Mark’s Orthodox Church.

Right next door to this monolith building, in the big Tasmajdan Park, sits this relatively modern church. It was built here in 1941 on the site of a previous important wooden church that housed the remains of notables and Emperors. That church was heavily bombed in WW2 and so it was dismantled and this much bigger one constructed.

From its inception it was the biggest church in Serbia until the new St Sava Church was completed in 2019 further out from the centre.

It’s quite plain on the outside, built in beige brown blocks with terracotta mortar and very little exterior ornamentation. It doesn’t help that it is surrounded by very plain and solemn buildings and even a dilapidated car park. Its saving feature is that it is set in the grounds of Tasmajdan park that has masses of trees and walkways and several cafes with nearby fountains.

The crypt contains the remains and tombs of bishops and members of the old Serbian Royal family that were transferred here from the old church before it was levelled.

As I entered I noticed there was a ceremony taking place in the centre. A large group of well dressed people were gathered around an ornately dressed priest reciting from a book loudly. I noticed two people in front of him then noticed the suits and white dresses and realised a wedding was going ahead.

I stood to one side not wanting to interrupt and wondered how I had been allowed in when this was happening. I stood back and watched the solemn ceremony. Lots of reciting by the group, religious texts being read aloud, a headpiece being kissed and placed on the couple’s head and removed. It was all very new to me – I’ve never been present at an Orthodox wedding and it was so different to the ceremony I was used to in a Protestant church environment

I then noticed several other worshippers entering, crossing themselves and heading off in various directions around the church to pray at side chapels etc. More came in and went out and I realised that the church is not closed off privately as in the UK for a wedding. No-one seemed bothered by the various attendees coming and going and they did not interfere with the ceremony.

In total, I probably spent around 20 mins watching and observing and taking in the atmosphere, it was enchanting. As the ceremony seemed to move into the central area I left and skirted round to take my pics and explore the church – without getting near or obvious to those attending the wedding.

The interior is quite plain in many areas and a lot of the internal decoration and frescoes actually date from the 1970-90’s.

Parts of the interior have a more modern take on the altar frescoes found in Orthodox churches. In fact, the frontal piece is very colourful and beckons you in. The huge single circle overhead chandelier floats in the air above everyone’s head and gives most of the only light in the central area.

The sarcophagus on Emperor Stefan Dusan, known as Stefan the Mighty sits here. In the 1350’s he was the King of Serbia, Emperor, and Tsar of a huge Empire that covered the Balkans. Thus it made him one of the most important monarchs of his era. I got a pic here of his tomb.

Outside I walked through the park. It was quiet as it seemed semi-deserted but I did notice a few parents with their toddlers using it for recreation. There are several statues, fountains and shaded walkways with plenty of trees. One side has a whole terrace of cafes and shops that actually overlooks a huge amphitheatre on the other side.

I was now getting dark and I was aware i still needed to pick up my keys and my bag from reception for my apartment. I crossed the main boulevard and headed towards a large modern supermarket ready to stock up on food for the next couple of days.

It was good that this time I had an apartment as it meant I could eat whenever I liked. I could prepare things I knew I would enjoy and actually be able to relax watching TV in a homely environment rather than the four walls of an hotel room. Food was fairly cheap, especially alcohol. I got a bottle of what looked like decent wine, (and it turned out to be delicious), for around half what I would pay in the UK and the choice was actually quite varied.

I now headed back to the apartment, which despite the quantity of places I have seen was actually only about 15 mins walk away…… easy!

Day two in Belgrade

It was great to wake up and get breakfast when I wanted rather than have to be dressed and in a room in another part of the building for breakfast if I was in a hotel. I ate some breakfast goods that I bought at the shop the previous evening and used the coffee sachets I had brought with me from the UK.

Weather was still grey and overnight there had been a dusting of snow – wasn’t expecting that! It was colder than yesterday but I had enough layers and my jacket to keep me warm

Today was going to be a somewhat cultural day as I had read about a fabulous private art gallery in the city centre that was outstanding in its modern art. Modern art is right up my street and I was certainly looking forward to seeing what this gallery would offer up.

Hotel Moscow and shopping area

The walk on the way would take me past this iconic building. A creative design, half art nouveau, half art and craft but definitely with a Slavic touch.

The hotel was once the prima donna place to stay.

Way back in the 1900’s this area was well out of the city itself and was actually a plateau filled with chestnut trees that locals used as a market place. Few buildings were around here but a inn was built that was subsequently sold to a Russian Insurance company eager to expand into Serbia. They then commenced a huge construction plan for a small palace size building in 1905, as the insurance company’s HQ.

Hotel Moscow (only 36 rooms then), was part of this building called the Russian Palace that had apartments, offices and a restaurant it was at the time the biggest building in Serbia. Its Russian Secessionist style was controversial but created huge interest. Being such a big building over time it had prestigious occupants – political parties, newspapers, writer’s clubs, bank HQ’s and even the Serbian Olympic Committee was founded here.

Ominously, in WW2 this was the Gestapo’s HQ when Germany took over Serbia.

After the war it was the place to be seen in, the cafe was full of masters of the literary and artistic worlds.

Today, it has one overriding famous feature. The now famous Moscow Snit cake was invented in 1974, in its cafe and patrons till flock to partake of a slice (around 250 slices eaten per day is usual!)

I wouldn’t usually place so much emphasis on my reviews on just a hotel, but this one is a landmark building and connected with Serbian history intrinsically. The names of famous hotel guests who have stayed here is so long I can’t list them all here. I could easily state 30 names on the list and they would all be world-famous. I’m just going to say Einstein, Audrey Hepburn, Robert de Niro, Indira Gandhi, Richard Nixon, Pavarotti and Frank Sinatra and you get the idea,

Did I go in for a slice of Snit cake ….. well I intended to …… but …. as I approached the cafe from the outside I could see into the interior through the big glass windows. Business men in suits and older ladies in Chanel dresses filled the interior. I felt embarrassed in my cargo trousers and t-shirt and felt sure there must be a dress code. I would defo fail it and to avoid the embarrassment I just ogled the cafe from the outside …. maybe next time!

Republic Square

A short walk away from Moscow Hotel lies Republic Square. It is roughly the central area of the old Singidun town of the Celts, Though the Roman fortress was built further along from where the present fortress lies, this area was also used by the Roman non-military inhabitants. In fact underground tombs from the Roman ages were found on this square when the Statue to Prince Mihailo was constructed.

It’s probably famous for being the location of the National Museum and the National Theatre, both quite imposing buildings lining the Square.

The bronze statue to Prince Mihailo also stands here in front of the Museum. He was famous for attaining the expulsion of the Ottoman Turks from Serbia and is depicted on a horse pointing in the direction of Constantinople (Istanbul) indicating the direction the Turks should take.

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Originally called Theatre Square until 1945, a huge palace and city gates once stood here – nothing of either remains to be seen above ground of these as they were demolished to make way for the present buildings.

The National Museum was originally the Govt’s Treasury building from 1903, and along with the National Theatre from 1869 became a focal square for the city.

This square has had so many proposals for redevelopment over the last 60 years (nearly every one not materialising or abandoned), that it has become a running joke/issue in the city. An Opera/Ballet House has been planned/rejected for most of that time.

When I was there, after Xmas, there were still a few market stalls selling artisan goods which gave it a Winterland look. The statue was being renovated and the Museum was closed for renovations.

University buildings 

Although not on the must see list a little further along Studentski Street, sits several of the University’s Faculties. I’m an ex-Uni student so University’s always get my attention. When I got there, I was a little disappointed. There is a large somewhat unattended big square with gardens and trees and a faculty building from the 1950’s? somewhat unmaintained.

However across the street is an interesting beige and terracotta building in an Ottoman style. It’s actually the University Rectory and has a Ceremonial Hall inside.

Luckily after a bit of a let down here, my next place to see was literally behind these buildings and I took the side street down past the Rectory to Kneza Mihaila street behind.

Zepter Museum Belgrade

It’s located on Kneza Mihaila – a pedestrianised shopping street on one of the main thoroughfares of the city. Mixed in among shops and stores it doesn’t seem to be the most logical of places to have an art gallery.

Housed in an old bank building from the 1920’s, it certainly still looks like that from the outside. Look carefully for its entrance as it is just a doorway between large commercial windows in the block, as its contents are inside at the back and higher floors. Look for the “Muzej Zepter” wording above the archway of the door.

This art gallery was opened in only 2010 and has already become a major centre of culture for the city, in fact it was the first privately owned museum in Serbia at the time.  Click here for ticket and opening info at the Museum.

The interior itself is a delight of white marble and dark brown stained wood. The stairwell looks like part of a mediaeval castle and the balcony walls have inlaid patterns within the marble.

The entrance fee is a ridiculously cheap 200 RSD or around £1.50, the opening hours are incredible – every day until 7.30pm and Thurs and Sat’s until 9.30pm. It is closed on Mondays however – how can you not come here with that price and opening times!

It currently exhibits 570 artworks from 164 Serbian artists from the second half of the 20th Century. It also houses, meeting and function rooms and regularly hosts music concerts – a veritable centre of culture.

For me the artworks here still form the most lasting impression I have of Belgrade. Yep, the Fortress overlooking the Danube is huge and unforgettable and Tito’s Mausoleum is a unique piece of history. For me, however, here was where I enjoyed the best time I had in Belgrade, an amazing 3 hours of visual delights.

The artworks were precious and inspiring, such a plethora of styles and interpretations. It fulfilled what had been promised as a great visit to the museum and I spent more time here than I planned.

The building is on three floors and absolutely filled with artworks on its walls and floors.

It remains, for me, one of the most captivating art galleries I have seen in Europe

I wanted to stay here longer as I was so enjoying the artworks and there was even a cafe to tempt me. However, I also knew that I had a lot to see today and if I lingered too long here, I would not get to see all of the other places on my tight time schedule.

So I reluctantly left the gallery and carried on along the street the museum is on and headed towards the fortress at the other end of the street, about 20 mins away.

Belgrade Fortress

This place is massive, do not underestimate the time you will need to see it all. It’s 60 hectares big!

There are masses of individual places to go inside – rooms, halls, towers, museums, separate building, wells, statues areas and memorial gardens, view over the Danube and surrounding landscape, parks, gate entrances …. the list goes on. That is before you even get to visit the several historically important churches within its confines too, that just cannot be missed.

Click here for fortress website for opening and ticket info 

I did it all in around 4 hours from one end to the others but I admit I didn’t go into everything. You can buy a combined ticket that gets you into the 5 main attractions and to see the grounds. This tickets costs 450 RSD (about £3.30) will save over 50% than if you paid for each place individually. At 450 RSD , it is so cheap, who cares if you don’t even go into all of them!

There is a huge park that pretty much runs around the whole of the fortress area, from where you can look up to the various walls and towers and this is free to enter. You’ll see locals enjoying the shady trees and kiddies running around on the grassed areas enjoying the freedom and even a few playgrounds and small eatery stands.

To get into the fortress itself you’ll need to enter one of the many gates and explore.

A map is advisory. I’ll say again …. its huge … and unless you know where you are heading, you’ll get lost as there are few signposts. The acreage is so big that you will not necessarily see ahead what you need to head for and with the number of walls you need to traverse and go through to the next part it can be confusing.

There’s not an easy “one path” to follow and you’ll need to divert off a route to see something then return to continue. Give yourself plenty of time !

At various points on the walk around you will come across the places to nip into. There is a military museum here that actually has a lot of the military equipment stored outside to see.

At certain points you will meet walls that could be from the Roman times, Ottomans, the 15th Century additions or even later. A map or guidebook from the souvenir shop on the way in will help you differentiate these. I’m not going to list a site by site comment as I would be here for ages.

There are several viewpoints across the Danube to the hinterland on the other side, that will portray what a massive defensive site this was. It effectively controlled the passage of any craft along the Danube and smaller Sava River.

Parts of the fortress can even get a little Games of Thrones in style as almost fully restored buildings and gateways come into view. It can take on a village/castle atmosphere at times in the surrounding architecture.

Don’t miss the large flat area, basically a big observation area of the two rivers and across the New Belgrade district. Here is the Royal gateway and on top is a tall slender column with a figure holding an eagle. It was built to commemorate Serbia’s victory over the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empires during the Balkan Wars and the First World War.

Nearby is a memorial area and the tombs of several Serbian Patriots from WW2

Here I had an interesting encounter. A local saw me looking at the tombs and probably saw the “I don’t know who these people are” look on my face. She asked me where I was from and then explained in perfect English, who they were and what they achieved. She explained how Churchill sent in planes to rescue the men and how one had tragically died just after.

It was one of those delightful encounters that enlightened me and all so expertly explained from someone who clearly appreciated history and her country’s past.

The light was now beginning to fade -it was already a grey and misty day to begin with and the illuminations of the fortress walls were starting to come on. I had one last chance to see the height of the defence walls and previous walls built below the now larger ones above them,

The fortress was continually added to and redesigned over the centuries and here the enormous casements and intricate gateways were opened up from above.

I took one last panoramic shot of the Danube from the fortress walls before I needed to head home.

Church of the Holy Mother of God  or Ruzica Church

Now, I did see this and the next church, almost adjacent to it, on my walk around the fortress, so don’t get confused thinking it is not within the fortress. I didn’t want to mix these two churches up with the Fortress info, but actually you will see them while exploring the Fortress.

Ruzica church, to give it its informal name, is translated as Little Rose church in English.

It’s not easy to find so have your map ready (or use your maps.me app as I use). The church is located in the eastern wall or outer bailey section overlooking the Danube. It quite near the Zindan Gate if you need a focal point and the Jakšić Tower. When you get there you’ll see the tower looming over it above. The area is on a walkway that slopes downhill and a left turn down steps is needed.

If there are plenty of people about just follow them as everyone anywhere near here will be going to this well sought after church.

The origins of the church dates from the 1400’s when it is said that a woman called Ruzica established the church. The nearby spring was said to have miraculously appeared when the relics of Saint Petka were rested here. Belgrade however is full of underwater springs as a natural phenomenon.

The relics are no longer here (apart from a finger) as they were sent for safekeeping to Lasi in Romania when the Ottomans invaded.

It’s worth a visit, as its reputed to be the site of the oldest church in Belgrade. The site has been continuously demolished in wars and then rebuilt. The invading Turks even used it as a gunpowder storeroom until 1867.

What we see today dates mainly from the restoration in 1925. The walls and ceiling are beautifully painted in iconostasis and all around, the walls have old seats. There are several small canopied-like areas with books and items in for prayer and huge commemorative plaques in marble on the walls. The checkerboard black and white was unusual to see in an Orthodox Church but so was the small gift shop at one end.

Luckily I got a great visit as I was the only one inside at the time.

Saint Petka Chapel Belgrade

This is a very small chapel but for me one of the most wonderous. It sits just below the prevoius Ruzica Church, down a small winding pathway.

The paved area opens out onto a small courtyard with three other “doorways” with painted icons above them. The far left one is the chapel but the others can be visited. They are about the size of a living room and seem to be small, extra chapels.

I entered the chapel and immediately heard a service was in progress. I could see quite a throng of people in the small chapel that probably only holds about 30 people at a time. It was full so I stood to one side and just observed the mass.

I’ve never been in an Orthodox mass so was keen to see what happens. Several people turned to look who had just entered – me – so I kept my phone in my pocket and stood nearby as if part of the congregation.

Lots of chanting, bowing, reciting of verses, people crossing themselves in unison at certain points and repeated amens and certain verses.

All very solemn and calm and it was quite spiritual. It felt that the congregation were so attentive and devotional. I also noticed that many were in their twenties and thirties, rather than an older generation I was used to seeing in Christian churches. It was also noticeable that it was equally men and women participating,

I stayed and watched till then end, quietly taking it all in. When all the people had left I was able to move around in near solitude now and explore the interior more.

The painted iconography was amazing. Clearly some was peeling with ages but the images seemed more cathedral like in the ceiling as they were large frescoes. The walls were covered in iconography as well, as is usual in an Orthodox Church.

The images were amazing. They looked restored but they gave a enormous feeling of space to the interior, especially the ceiling, which was painted to appear open to the skies.

I got as near as possible to the front, as I saw the image of Saint Petka there and quietly wandered the interior glad of the peace and lack of crowds. I left with a very solemn and calm feeling.

I walked back the way I had come done and continued my fortress exploration from the above walls.

Eventually, it was time to leave and I exited via one of the massive gateways. I made my way downhill, outside the fortress walls, towards my next stop

Holy Archangel Michael Orthodox Cathedral Belgrade

A church has been on this site since the 1500’s but it was later rebuilt as it was not large enough for the number of worshippers it attracted. Four successive churches were either destroyed in wars, fires or looting over the centuries.

The Serbian Prince Milos ordered the penultimate one to be demolished and a brand new one built in 1837-40 – this is the one we see today. Its old bell, which was rung on the first day of Serbian autonomy in 1830, was transferred to another church in Belgrade

The Cathedral is today regarded as the most important Christian place of worship in Serbia. Past rulers, Patriarchs and Kings of Serbia are buried here as well as several famous Serbs in literature and reforms.

The interior was very dark on my visit and try as I might I just could not get a decent photo of the painted ceiling. There were “no flash” signs around and as usual there was a guardian inside so I couldn’t sneak a few,

The walls were heavily gilded and large wooden carved throne-like embellishments stood out. The ceiling was extremely tall but again a lack of natural light on what was already a gloomy grey day coming into the evening just meant I had to enjoy was I could be in the fading light.

Again, I was on my own inside. It felt that today was either an extremely quiet day for worship (apart from inside the St Petka Chapel earlier), or congregations are getting smaller in Belgrade,

Outside and across the road was a building that stood out. Its tall white washed walls and balconies declared that it must be a building of religious importance. The crosses on the domes also suggested that,  but I could also see that it was not a church.

This was the building of the Patriarchate – the administrative centre of the Serbian Orthodox Church.. It was definitely not old and I guessed it was from the 1930’s judging by some of the architectural features on it.

Next door was a small palace known as Ljubica’s palace who was married to Prince Milos, the ruler of Serbia. It was used as a royal residence and today is a museum dedicated to displaying furniture and the palace as it was in its heyday.

Tunnels were discovered in the 1930’s that lead from the residence to the old Patriarch house and the nearby Cathedral, presumably so that the royal family could visit them all in secret.

My second day here was now finished and luckily I ended my route not too far from my hotel. I definitely needed the rest now and the wind was beginning to increase on what was becoming a very cold day – even the overnight dusting of snow had not fully cleared in several areas of the city.

Day three in Belgrade

This was to be my last day in Belgrade and as I had a late evening flight back to London I effectively had a whole day to kill.

I checked out of the apartment early but not before rechecking with reception where the bus to the airport left. I knew it was at the bus station but that station was a bit chaotic. It’s a general sprawl of an area, badly maintained, with buses arriving and departing from all areas with little signage.

Indeed when I arrived from Zagreb the bus pulled up outside the bus station on a wide side street. That meant I had to get my bearing on my GPS to know exactly which street I was on near the station.

They confirmed that the stop was indeed not in the bus station but outside it on a kind of big square next the the adjacent train station. There is a bus stop shelter with signage for the airport (as I found out) so it is clear enough where to wait.

My first visit was, I reckoned, going to take me about 30 mins to walk there. I hate using taxis, I avoid the polluting cars when I can. I love walking and taking in the atmos, shops, buildings and seeing the way the locals get around the city.

The walk was quite direct along straight and obvious streets and it gave me an insight into the city. It reaffirmed what I noticed before. Lots of derelict buildings and empty shops of businesses that seem to have gone to the wall. It definitely felt like the city had seen better days and that it was still in the midst of a lingering depression.

Occasionally a newer building appeared and the hotels eg Hilton, along the way were the beacons of any progress in trade here. Small shops, run down shop fronts and apartment blocks from the 1950’s-80’s were prevalent, many needed some maintained and past their prime.

Streets were generally clear and a lack of street poverty was evident ….. but graffiti on walls was a definite problem. It was adding to the sense of despair and past pride.  I definitely got the feeling that Belgrade needed an economic boost.

My estimation of 30 mins to get there was absolutely correct to the minute but I enjoyed seeing the city from a different viewpoint on the way.

Arrival here revealed the church is built inside a small park area which is itself a kind of traffic hub on its outer edges.

Temple of Saint Sava

This Temple – it is actually the Cathedral building of the Serbian Orthodox Church and biggest church in Serbia, was conceived way back in the 1920’s. The first stone was not laid until 1935 however. Its location is supposed to be where the reverend, in Serbian history, relics of Saint Sava’s were burned by the Ottomans in 1595 as retribution against a local Serb uprising.

WW2 came and construction stopped. Nazis used the area as a storage ground and even after Tito took over it was still left unfinished. The communist era banned its continuance but in 1984 it gained permission and a massive crowd attending its restart convinced the authorities to not interfere further.

By 2004 the exterior was complete. In 2017 all windows and domes were in place and it stood awaiting its fitting out of the interior which was to go on until 2020..

It definitely reminded me of the Alexander Nevsky Orthodox church in Sofia in Bulgaria in its design. It also has those telling cascading domes, central high dome and high walls similar to the Hagia Sofia in Istanbul.

The white walls were matching the white dusting of snow that had gently laid overnight.

There is a small church right next to it which looked so pretty also, a kind of mini version of its neighbour.

I entered the church via a small side door as the main front doors were still shut.

What I met surprised me. I had heard that it was not finished inside but this was not what I understood by that. The bare bones of the interior were there. Crude concrete arches, exposed stucco and sections fenced off with rusty fencing. It felt like a true construction site …. which it still was in reality.

The banging of tools and plain windows shocked me, huge sheets covering columns shone out from the sides. I guess I just was expecting anything so unfinished. It was cold inside, like I was still standing outside!

I wondered what I was to see here, took my pics and wandered a little. I noticed lots of people heading off immediately in one direction, among them noticeably tourists …. so I followed.

We went down a marble wide staircase that seemed out of place – so clean and bright – in the construction area and it was not fenced off.

Now I entered into the most gloriously gold and white crypt that I had ever seen. There was a moment of a gasp of WOW. The extreme from unfinished to marvellously ostentatious was a shock.

The vaulted ceiling were lit beautifully and a small altar was in place at one end ready to accept worshippers. Here was where the tourists (yes, I know that’s me also) were snapping away with their cameras and everyone was wandering the walkways admiring the views.

The iconography on the walls and ceiling was shining so brightly, clearly freshly made. The floors were of polished marble and each turn brought another series of frescoes and mosaics that merited a picture.

There are many pics here, I couldn’t stop myself. Maybe it was a reaction to the bareness above but it certainly was also a reaction to the splendour of the huge undercroft.

It was daytime and all the lights were on to spotlight the scenes. I did think how expensive it must be to light this area permanently.

After some time underground I resurfaced and wandered the ground level again. There were a few areas of semi chapels, somewhat finished for prayer. I made a mental note that if the undercroft was anything to go by, then when this is all finished, it will be a spectacular interior. I do hope the funds extend to make it so after the near 100 years it had so far taken to plan and build.

If anyone is here after 2020 when it is planned to be finished, please send me some pics or show on your blog. I really want to see what it looks like in its finished state.

From here, there was another 30 mins walk to get to my next place.

Again, a walk through building complexes, past apartment blocks and shops and even a pedestrian bridge over the motorway were all good sights to take in on the way.

House of Flowers -Tito’s Mausoleum

This building was finished in 1975 as a winter garden for the dictator of Yugoslavia, Josep Tito. He later had a villa built next door in which he was to reside but actually died before it was complete. President Milosevic lived in that villa for a year until his arrest in 2000, as his Presidential Palace was bombed by NATO.

It was called House of Flowers because when Tito’s tomb was placed here in 1980 the central area was filled with planted flowers, until it was closed to the public after the breakup of Yugoslavia.

The gardens, mainly lawned  now contain several statues including one of Tito himself.

The exterior is quite plain, a mainly beige brick and glass canopied entrance area with a small circular driveway and decorative fountain.

Inside the building lies Tito’s tomb. It a quite plain marble striated rectangular mausoleum with simply his name and birth/death dates on.

You can walk up close to it and pictures can be taken. There are a few guards around but the men are dressed in smart suits and the female guards in dress suits. Different, but it definitely lends a more informal air to the setting.

Beside the tomb area is Tito’s office area that looks out over a terraced garden. The office is now a museum, filled with his artefacts – eye glasses, pens and stationery he used. An exhibition of his life and times is in the building too.

There is even a hanging white military suit that he wore. His desk and chairs are still in the room, which you can see through the glass wall,as you can’t actually enter the room. He certainly had a nice view through the large windows here.

Tito’s birthday was celebrated every year by teams of baton-carrying relayers who ran from his birth-place town to Belgrade in stages, A baton with a birthday message inside was carried each time and these batons are now on display in the building.

The designs are many and varied and reflect the artistic tastes of the times.

My time in Belgrade was now complete and I wandered the grounds of the next-door Museum of Yugoslavia, not wanting to go inside. Click here for info on this museum if your intentions are to visit it.

I rested on the park benches before I had to recommence a long walk back of around 45 mins to get to the apartment to pick up my bag and eventually head to the airport.

My impressions of Belgrade

What did I think of Belgrade? My overriding impression is that it is a city a little down at heal and seemingly lacking in funds (both private and public) to keep the maintenance of some building up to scratch. The main ones Palaces, Parliament etc are well maintained but there is a slight depressive feel in the monotonous 1960’s style plain buildings that fill Belgrade. The abundance of street graffiti was generally off-putting but I knew I needed to see beyond this

However, what did astound me was the amazing Zepter art Gallery, honestly one of the best I have seem in Europe. The fortress was a complete surprise – huge in size and extent and the small chapels and churches inside a real delight and assault (in a good way) of colour and iconography.

I was definitely glad to have seen this city and I encourage you to do the same – tell me your impression of what you see and find here

Jan 2018

Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.