Spain – Benidorm

My Benidorm trip was a bit of a lad’s holiday with a group of friends, which I don’t often do. The opportunity arose so I went and it was more the chance to relax after a year of extensive travelling.

It was my first seaside trip in many years, but I quickly bore of beach, bars and sea and so needed a bit of a cultural break mid-stay.

I took a day trip to Alicante – a city that surprised me in its beauty and affluence. It was not the semi-seaside tourist city at all ! Click for the link to my post on Alicante

So where do I start with Benidorm.

There are so many stories and reputation bashing articles on this town and a lot of conflicting info. Here I shall attempt to clarify exactly what Benidorm is and how it got to have the reputation it has.

A brief history of Benidorm

Benidorm has an interesting past – quite trail-blazing in many ways and actually has a cultural past way back in time.

History starts nearby. At the end of the Poniente Beach is a hill outcrop. It has another small tourist community there called Cala Finestrat but in the hill was found remains of a settlement from the 1st Century BC along with previous Phoenician and Roman Ruins and artefacts.

Fishing nets were found that shows its dominant industry from then up until the 1920’s. This effectively gives Benidorm a tenuous but important link back to 2000 years of history and more. Surprising eh?

“BENIDORM” doesn’t mean buen dormir or dormir bien (sleep well) from the Spanish language as many suggest . It comes from the Arabic words “Beni” ,meaning “sons of”. and “Dorm” the family name. So in English we would say “House of Dorm “.

An Arabic style of tuna fishing with off-shore permanent nets was used for centuries. These were based on what is now the Levante Beach area and gradually the town grew up from the wealth this fishing brought.

In 1325 it was officially recognised as a town by the local King and given royal protection.

In the 1600’s it expanded around a castle, situated where the present day St James Church and the Balcon Mediteraneo sits.

Nothing remains today of the castle, but its clear sea look-out point, on a high cliff promontory that juts into the sea, was a clear military advantage.

In 1885 water was channelled from the nearby mountains into the town. This was the first time fresh water was available on demand in the town.

With this water, the surrounding areas were traditionally farmed, with olive, orange and lemon plantations springing up.

Benidorm was still isolated from the rest of the interior but once the main road to Alicante was built and the railways arrived here in 1914  a new expansion happened.

In the 1920’s a local noble built a palatial villa on what was the foundations of the old castle (today it is a hotel). The first tourist “hostal” (B&B style lodgings) were built alongside the Levante beach in 1925.

A guy called Barcelo (a famous hotel chain of that name today) built the first hotel in Benidorm in 1926 …. it still exists today ……. a precedent was set!

The Arabic style of tuna fishing with off-shore permanent nets finally came to an end in 1952 and they were dismantled.  A new form of employment was desperately needed – and so we begin to enter the Benidorm we know today.

The Bikini War and Mayor Zaragoza

Now this is a great story and in many ways was the start of Benidorm as a major beach resort.

A new Mayor, Pedro Zaragoza, was elected in 1950 and what a trail blazer he was to be. He had a vision for Benidorm which was for it to become a successful beach and tourist resort.

The fishing industry decline after the dismantling of the nets in 1952 meant a decline in population and he needed to stop the emigration.

At the time Spain was ruled by the Fascist dictator Franco and morals and life was very Catholic and conservative. He had seen bikinis were the norm on European beaches but the powerful Bishops of Spain only even reluctantly allowed one piece female bathing costumes on Spanish beaches

In 1953 Zaragoza authorised the wearing of bikinis on Benidorm beaches, when no-one in the country had attempted this. The local Catholic Church and masses were aghast and there was an uproar.

The local Archbishop threatened to ex-communicate him and the local Police regularly hassled anyone wearing bikinis, despite the mayor’s ruling.

So what does Zaragoza do? He gets on his moped and drives 8 hours to Madrid for an audience with the dictator Franco to plead his case. Amazingly Franco agreed with him.

Franco wanted to open up Spain commercially as a tourist destination and probably saw the economic benefit rather than the moral case ! The Bishops backed down. 

The bikini had legally arrived in Spain, in Benidorm !!!

Zaragoza now set about building the town with his Urban Planning programme. Wide Avenues and larger hotels sprung up in a very well controlled town plan centred along the Levante Beach.

Every hotel was rigidly placed so as not to encroach on another’s views and strict delineation was enforced, which still exists today.

The Old town, a roughly shaped triangular area meeting the sea at the terraced Balcon was kept as it was.

Remember that Benidorm was still a holiday destination mainly for the Spanish.  All that changed with the opening of Alicante International airport some  60 km away in 1967.

Modern jets and package holidays now brought in the foreign tourists, at first Dutch, then German and culminating in a British wave. However the largest number of visitors today are still Spanish.

Benidorm became a future model for many tourist resorts. Benidorm hit its peak in 1977 with 12 million visitors, a record for the town that still stands today.

The expansion in the 1990’s continued onto the southern Poniente Beach. The Balcon promontory separates the two beaches and this area became a more sedate and up-market tourist/residential zone.

Well, that’s the history tale sorted – let’s find out a bit more about this place.

Lets start with the area that Benidorm is most famous for

Playa Levante area

Literally meaning the Sunrise beach  – because its position is in the most eastern part of the resort and thus the sun rises over the horizon in front.

This is where the cheaper hotels area is, that accommodates those sunseekers on a booze and beach holiday.

The beaches at the height of Summer can get very crowded but there are areas where you can rent sunbeds and parasols tightly packed together that will give you a modicum of comfort .

There are areas too where it is more free-for-all and you will need to stake out your space with your towels on the open sand. Joining in here will mean having to put up with those close to you. That could be a bunch of drunken lads, a family with screaming squabbling kids or a couple of old age pensioners who have been coming here for years and absolutely love this atmosphere.

Move further towards the Old Town promontory and away from the corner area of this large beach and you will encounter more space and a freer area to spread out.

The only disadvantage in this is if you want or need the backdrop of the large open-front bars along the beach promenade, then you are further away from them.

These bars can be overwhelming in their plethora of men, and to a lesser extent women, still in their beachware knocking backs pints of lager and swaying by mid-day in various levels of intoxication – and that’s just the women !  The English sounding names of the bars and pubs would make you think you are back in the UK if not for the weather.

If recourse to a bar is what you need daytime, for heavy drinking, to be with your mates having a banter and still be near the beach for sunbathing …… then here is where you need to be.

If you still want closeness of this but not in the midst then you need to go further south but not beyond the jutting out rocky promontory. As you gradually near the cliff area and get further away from the crowded masses then you will also notice that the bars become less crowded, the bars become stylish restaurants, and the atmosphere more relaxed and quieter.

If you do want to get a great view of the Levante Beach then take a walk up to the Old Town promontory and from one side you will get a panoramic view along the whole length of the beach.

Even better, if you can, find one of the many roof top bars in that area in the early evening. You can then see the sun reflecting off the glass of the newer hotels and the lapping water, as it sets over the other side of the mount (the Poniente beach).

I should say that not all holidaymakers on the Levante beach side of Benidorm are doing the same thing, but a walk around the entertainment streets gives you very little choice of anything remotely more up market.

There are a lot of (mainly British) families here too but let’s just say that most are after the cheap booze, home-made (British) food, beachlife on a cramped shoreline and the nightlife of tacky bars, strip clubs and pole dancing, open air venues.

The Square Levante Benidorm

The action is centred around an area called “The Square” – it doesn’t even have a Spanish name !

The names of the pubs and bars in the area just give it away that this resort is so working class British. “The Queens Arms ” , “The Red Lion ” etc, all just so classically British to make them feel at home and each place competing in advertising the cheapness of its drinks.

The strange thing for me was to see a strip club next to a Big Massage Parlour and then a cheap takeaway, greasy food joint next to a sex show club ….. aiming at a particular type of market indeed.

Ok, I mustn’t knock this area too much – one of the drunk, shaven headed, bare chested drunks might hit me for saying it! My friends and I ventured into this area just to see for ourselves that the horror stories are true … and they are.

I felt like I was on a waking trip into a savageland or in a zoo looking at the various caged spectacles as we walked by them, frightened to go in them. We decided  to experience just one and picked one of the less offensive ones – tempted in by the hassler outside promising two drinks for the price of one.

We entered into a cavern of a place, the floor sticky with spilt beer, music so loud it hurt my ears and none of us could speak to each other as the music was deafening. The clientele were so drunk – it was only 9pm. Lads falling around, swearing as part of normal language and the women scantily dressed, dyed blonde hair. I’m sounding like a grumpy old man but it reminded me of the worst excesses I had seen in bad reputation British clubs …. and a lot more  We got the drinks (watered down !), knocked them back, laughed at the experience then got out quick. My ears were still ringing from tinnitus the day after.

Film set of Tv series “Benidorm”

Anyone here familiar with that British TV series called aptly ” Benidorm”? Click here for link to find out more about this tv series 

Its a drama series (quite comedic though) about British families holidaying in Benidorm, what happens to them, their behaviour and their interaction with the Spanish local employees. I love it for its fun and have to say that many of the comedy scenarios are actually quite believable.

Well, the hotel they all stay in is called the “Solana”. It is an actual hotel in Benidorm and its is shot on location here.

The cabaret bar area of the hotel is also a location just across the street and is still a cabaret bar when not in use for filming. We just had to see them both and even went into the bar and saw a cabaret ourselves.

Yep, full of the Levante holidaymakers but the show’s quality was actually very good. We stayed for a couple of drinks just to soak up the atmosphere of where the famous amorous Spanish barman serves drinks to the often clueless Brits.

Outside however the Union Jack flag and tacky takeaway unit reminded us that we were still in low-down Levante.

Our pilgrimage done to the TV set, we all hailed a taxi and set off for The Old Town area for a better atmosphere.

Old Town area.

So Benidorm doesn’t have a true “old town” in the sense that it has streets of historic 400 year old buildings and a massive Cathedral.

It has many of the buildings that still remain from the 1920’s and 1950’s when it underwent expansion and growth in business. These streets have now been paved, pedestrianised and the exteriors restored so that they give a southern Spanish village feel. They are not overly modernised and even the newer ones have kept to what we would regard as a traditional style along more modern lines.

Old Town is here, in a triangle that extends to one tip reaching the Old church and square adjacent to the terraced Balcony over the Mediterranean.

The older bars and small restaurants that cater for the mainly Spanish locals and tourists are located here. The scenes are of families and small groups of well dressed people (men with their tops off are not encouraged here). There are foreigners but they tend to be of a different persuasion to the Levante Beach crowd.

The restaurants serve classic Spanish dishes not pie and chips like your mum makes. The bars play Spanish music, the chatter tends to be more Spanish.

The stores are evidently catering to the Spanish locals, signs are in Spanish. There are often foreigners here just wandering the area to take in the views and they tend to be more affluent middle-aged couples and non family groups.

We stayed in this area after recommendation from my friends that it is a better, quieter and more enjoyable area than the brash, cultureless area of the Levante.

Dove Fountain

At one side of the Old Town area is a well known fountain in Benidorm. It’s simply where doves, (white pigeons?), gather daily to be fed grain by the locals.

The quaint blue tiled fountain has a small set of water cascades and the birds prance around its exterior waiting to be fed.

Whilst the locals seem to enjoy feeding the birds they are often interrupted by a toddler playfully racing into the flock of birds who scatter.

What the town developers hadn’t reckoned with, was that by putting the town’s children’s park play area next to the fountain they would have kiddies running across from there to also play with the doves!

The fountain is actually in a palm fringe square surrounded by local apartments and small B&B establishments and can be a little oasis in the shade.

Plaza Santa Ana/Castelar 

The high rocky sided promontory that juts out into the sea and effectively splits the beach into two seperate beaches – Levante and Poniente, contains a pretty little square.

This the original site of the Arabic castle – none of it remains today. A walk around this takes you totally out of a seaside context (apart from the views across the sea) and into a Spanish village feel.

Its chequer-board flooring, small trees and hedges and somewhat older buildings, is so relaxing.

The views from this plaza are amazing, as you get a full panorama of the sea in front and the two massive beaches stretching out to the horizon on either side.

There is a memorial obelisk to mariners nearby. A white painted pergola area and even old canons and a huge ship’s anchor are displayed here to give it atmosphere.

The church of San Jaime y Santa Ana lies to one side.

Balcon del Mediteraneo

This white washed steeped terrace of steps and balustrades leads almost down to the sea.

It white colour stands out against the blue of the sea and is a striking design from which to look across to the uninhabited island just off the coast of Benidorm.

This viewpoint attract the crowds, especially in the evening to see the sun set. It is strangely un-commercialised and such a breath of fresh air from the modern high rise buildings further along the beaches.

The nearby hotel was once a residential home to an aristocrat from the 1920’s.

Church of St James and St Ann 

The church of San Jaime y Santa Ana also sits on this promontory and was built between 1740 and 1780.

It is probably the only old building of any significance in Benidorm. Its rather classical but plain exterior hides a beautifully ornate and understated interior full of traditional Catholic opulence.

The side and back area of the church faces onto the Plaza de la Senoria, with its white and black tiled flooring. The exterior of the church is plain and is painted white, with tints of ochre.

The cupola is covered with blue tiles. The front entrance of the church however is on Plaza del Castillo/San Jaime and facing the more modern apartment blocks there.

Inside you can see a statue of the Virgen del Sufragio (Virgin of the Suffrage), who is the well-loved patron saint of Benidorm.

The statue is actually a small wood sculpture and sits in its own small chapel. It was allegedly found on a boat adrift on the high seas and brought to Benidorm.

Tapas Alley

There are several small streets next to each other in Old Town that are quite narrow but filled with small bars and restaurants. Many have outside tables and one street is basically a street lined with tables from restaurants all selling tapas. Its colloquially called Tapas Alley.

Tapas originally were (and still are in non tourist bars) small nibble sized saucers holding snack food of eg fried squid, slices of bread and anchovies, cuts of potato omelette etc. They were to keep hunger at bay in pre lunch drinks before going home for a full meal.

They have now been developed, under tourist influence, to become larger plates of the foodstuffs, almost like a personal mini buffet. The idea now, is to buy several small plates of these varieties of delicacies and even to order enough to turn them into an evening meal, accompanied by wine.

Everyone has their favourite one here so get along and just chose which takes your fancy as they are all good !

Cala del Mal Pas Beach

There is one other beach that I must mention here. It actually sits at the base of the promontory and is wedged between the rocky coast of the cliff and the newer Marina with its defending concrete and stone filled walls.

Before the building of the Marina, this area was an extension of the Poniente beach but now sits alone in its sheltered position.

It is a popular beach but can probably only hold a few hundred people due to its small size. It is sheltered from the elements by the tall backdrop of the cliffs – the only beach protected in Benidorm in this way.

Access is from the road alongside the Marina next door or by taking the steps down from the promontory.

Marina

Benidorm does have a small boat Marina that, nowadays, is used mainly by pleasure craft giving sea trips along the coast and a few private fishing trips.

There are trips across to the island off-shore, which is a protected wildlife reserve.

The Marina is probably the latest addition to Benidorm as an amenity and many locals have their small sail boats moored here.

Commercial fishing no longer exists in Benidorm but many locals still use their boats for private fishing expeditions and recreation.

The long protective wall of the Marina with its block-drooped defences can be a bit of a jar on the eye as its not particularly attractive. However it is clear that even sun worshippers prefer this wall for the privacy and remoteness it gives in their pursuit of the sun.

Aiguera park Benidorm

An area just to the north of Old Town has a rather modern extension. Here was developed a linear park running from the modern Town Hall up to near the train station.

It has marble walkways and massive urns (presumably for flowers but looking unattractively empty and unattended).

The walls have been laid in shades of white and pink marble that needed some attention and many of the marble flagstones were now cracked and chipped. It still retained some element of grandeur especially when it opens out onto the big open-air amphitheatre.

This arena is used for local music festivals and open-air band concerts .

There is an annual International Music Festival that, despite the reputation Benidorm has, gets quite a prestigious world-wide following and attendance.

The famous Spanish singer Julio Iglesias  (who had a equally famous son Enrique Iglesias) was born and lived in Benidorm.

Julio sold more than 100 million records worldwide in 14 languages. It is estimated that during his career he has performed in more than 5000 concerts, for over 60 million people in five continents. Fame indeed !

To that end he is commemorated with a bust of himself in the park

Playa Poniente

My last comments here on Benidorm have been left for the Poniente (Sunset) Beach.

I have to say that this is probably my favourite area of Benidorm. This beach is so much less commercial than the Levante Beach.

Here you don’t find the garish, tacky promenade bars. There are quaint restaurants, local filled and owned bars and a colourful tiled floor walkway and decorative balustrade along the entire promenade wall.

Yes, it has a few high-rise buildings along the sea front but these tend to be higher class hotels and apartment blocks with decorative gardens.

There are high-rise buildings a bit further inland and in fact the two tallest buildings in Benidorm are on this side of town. However they do not infringe on the promenade as they are set well back inland.

There are even attractive promenade private villas and boutique small hotels here too.

The beach is much more a family beach, more local and there are even beach volleyball nets and a wooden boardwalk and showers.

The feel is less of crowds and mass tourism and there is room for everyone to spread out in privacy.

The 2 km beach ends in a rocky promontory too with small villas and houses overlooking the sea.

If you want the peaceful and higher class feel to a beach head for this one. The  beach is deeper and so the Poniente promenade may be a bit further away, but you will avoid the masses!

So, did I enjoy my week in Benidorm

On balance yes . We went to several local clubs, bars and restaurants that were better quality than the mass area of Levante and stayed in the Old Town and used the Poniente Beach or the Levante area near the cliffs away from the tacky end of town.

The local feeling wandering around the town made me feel I was in Spain. I lasted 2 hours in the tacky “British” end of Benidorm as the atmosphere was just too like home for me.

I did need to spend a day in Alicante midway through, as I needed my culture fix. I’m also not much of a beach person as sitting out in the sun, doing nothing for hours is as boring as it can get for me. I need to be active, even on holidays and my legs needed long walks and intellectual stimulus.

My friends loved our venture and it was good to be with them, even though none wanted to do more than beach, bar and relax.

Benidorm has been seen and done. It was good for the experience and reality check, I feel I know the two sides to Benidorm now. I would definitely do the same again if I ever went back there i.e. stay in Old Town and use Poniente Beach …. avoid Levante Beach at all costs!.

June 2017

Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.