Slovenia – Ljubljana

Ljubljana, Slovenia.

View the city from the medieval fortified castle walls overlooking the city after a captivating ride to the top in a funicular cab on rails. The streets of Ljubljana are just full of restored beautiful building after building . When you arrive at the central area with the triple bridge leading into the picturesque square, turn and look back up at the castle you have just been to on the hill. You can stock up on all your fresh foods needs at the fabulous permanent farmer’s market before hitting the numerous art galleries. Pass by the Opera House and get inquisitive at the many statues and figurine scenes on the Parliament building. It’s a very walkable city but don’t let the excessive vandalising graffiti on the walls in some areas detract from the beauty of the city.

This was part of my 3 nation trip that involved arriving in Ljubljana, read about this in my post here. From Ljubljana, I then travelled onwards by bus to Zagreb, click here for the bus Journey post. After a three day stay in Zagreb, (click here for Zagreb post), I travelled onwards, again by bus to Belgrade. See Belgrade review here.

A little history on Ljubljana

First mention of this place was that is was founded by Jason of the Argonauts. Being a Greek mythological tale it is hard to believe but some Greek ruins have been found nearby.

If you really want to go back in history, then the Romans built a fortified settlement in the city in 15 AD , Called Emona. It housed around 6,000 soldiers, merchants and craftsmen. Again, if you really want to be precise the crossroads of Slovenska Cesta and Rimska Cesta would be the rough centre of the Roman fortified town. I actually walked across the centre and on both streets without realising it.

The main roads out of the Roman town are the present day north, west and east roads leaving this central area, to the west of the castle, on the other side of the river. Several present-day streets still follow the line of the Roman walls and there is a very long section of it preserved on Mirje Street. The Roman public baths foundations were discovered when they built the new National and University library over them.

From 408 to 660AD Visigoths, Huns Slavs, Franks (German) and Magyars (Hungarians)  and others took turns in invading the area.

It suffered seven total destructions of the city during the Middle Ages and formally took on, its local name of Leibach around this time.

For centuries it then prospered but no major events or constructions of grand merit happened. From the 1200’s until 1697 it was under Habsburg control. In the 15th century, the city became recognised for its art, particularly painting and sculpture. After the 1511 major earthquake, the city was rebuilt in stone, (wooden structures were banned), to prevent more fires and many of it present day famous buildings started to appear.

In the 16th Century, it gained its first public Schools, library and printing press. Along with religious infighting between Catholics and protestants, it  became a centre of learning, speaking mainly Slovene, rather than the past German.

1597 saw Jesuits and Capuchins religious orders arrive and the Catholic domination. Many of the famous churches eg The Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity  were founded then (it’s still there) and baroque music and architecture filled the city.

In 1809 napoleon took over, then the Austrians re-took it in 1815  and it even hosted major political congresses and events.

In 1895 a catastrophic earthquake hit the city again, necessitating the rebuilding  of some 1400 building in a modern style. They took the opportunity to install electricity and a modern grid floorplan along with huge improvements in public buildings, health and education. The main architect Joze Plecnik, rebuilt much of it in a Art Nouveau style whilst maintaining the older Baroque buildings.

After WW1 it became part of the Kingdoms of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes – the forerunner of Yugoslavia.

Fast forward to WW2 and it came under Italian then German occupation. Post WW2 it was the capital of a separate the Slovenian Republic within the reformed  federal Yugoslavia. We all know about the collapse of Communism in Europe and Russia and in 1991 became an independent nation.

Where does the name Ljubljana come from?

How the name Ljubljana became to be is not quite clear.

Some historians say it is named after the river Ljubljanica that runs through it. Others say the river is named after the settlement that locals called Lubiana. The ancient word “ljub” is often cited meaning “to love” and that the full name thus means “a loved place”. Cute but that is often rubbished by many as an explanation

Some have said it is derived from the old Slavic aquatic deity Laburus – interesting that water is used here again.

Yet another version says that the name comes from the Latin word for a river in flood – aluviana. Interestingly, the Romans (Latinists by far) called the town Iulia Emona …. similar?

A slightly different take is that it comes from the old Germanic word “leubagh”, suggesting a hill in the shape of a skull, on which Ljubljana castle stands today.

Another theory  claims that the name derives from German word “Laibach”, (lukewarm brook or marshland). The city was called Leibach from the 1200’s  up until Napoleon took it over. Yet another states it is named after the founder of the settlement who was called Ljubovid.

Take your pick!

The city officially used the name Ljubljana from 1918, after WW1

Ljubljana Card

Something to bear in mind. You can buy online or at the tourist office, the “Ljubljana Card”. This gives free access for 24, 48 or 72 hours to 20 plus places. It also includes a free guided city tour, castle funicular ride, bus rides, a river boat cruise and the Zoo.  Do the maths on how many places you are definitely going to visit as it can save you a lot. If you are paying to go in just a couple then it’s not worth it.

This was probably the first time that I didn’t buy such a card as I usually see EVERYTHING,. I didn’t want to visit the Zoo (hate the caged animals scenario), wouldn’t have time for boat trips, was going to walk anyhow and I would never need a bus. If I was staying 3 full days and was going to do them all and had time I would have bought it – this was a quick visit however.

I had previously decided that a couple of the Museums/Galleries, whilst historic and no doubt had great Slovenian treasures, would have limited interest for me. I hardly ever go in a history Museum and the main art gallery was by, (unknown to me), Slovenian artists that I possibly would not enjoy.

Click here for the online website 

I skipped it but did acknowledge it has great savings if you are going the whole hog on attractions and are there for 3 days plus.

Ljubljana graffiti

This may be a contentious point but I’m gonna discuss it here.

On my travels around the world I often come across graffiti on walls. lamposts signage, even the pavement so I don’t find it unusual. It is often political “X for President”, “no more corruption” etc, etc and I find that a lot. However, in Europe I increasingly find vandalistic graffiti – not even good or pretty enough to be called “street art”.

The tagging of buildings, spraying of names etc to me is just an unlawful mess, an eyesore and often a ghettoisation of an area. It leaves it looking unsightly and overtaken by gangs …. yep you got … I hate it. I love proper street art and I’ve seen much where designs are colourful and brighten up a shabby area with meaningful art and attractive works and they are beautiful. See the pics in my Tirana, Albania and Quebec, Canada posts to see what I mean for wonderful street art.

The destructive scribbling on private property in an attempt to impose some idiot’s narcissistic influence on a street annoys me. It is selfish and wanton damage.

So, imagine my horror as I walk 20 paces from my hotel to see these images.

These were not abandoned building, The first is a university building and the second a residential building, both nearly opposite my hotel.

I was shocked and put it down to some local factor. It would no doubt get better as I walked away from these buildings.

I crossed the road and went down a few small streets that opened up onto a pedestrianised cute shopping street of low, old houses with eateries. A few steps into the street and I was met with this.

I stood shocked. Clearly buildings over a hundred years old and this is what had happened to them. I could see that many were businesses, restaurants and some homes. I questioned why no-one had even attempted to clean off the mess and establish some sort of fight back. Some of the graffiti was clearly years old as they had dates.

Why would a business expect anyone to come into their establishment if it looked like this from the outside, uncared for, lack of pride. There must be a reason for this ….or was I simply overreacting from the perspective of a person with a very tidy, organised mind that loved beauty.

I looked around at the many passer-by’s to see their reaction. Clearly locals they passed by without even looking at the mess, obviously used to it. It stopped me in my tracks and I did wonder if I was walking into a ghetto/rundown area of town with huge social problems. No, people walking by were actually well dressed and were going in and out of the stores despite the graffiti.

Ok, go with the flow I thought and walked along the street. It got worse and I was even afraid to take pics in case some local turflord saw me and reacted to me. The whole street of a few mins walk was covered in this, even the beautiful cobbled floor and windows.

My heart sank ….. what have I unwittingly walked into? Was the whole city like this? This can’t be synonymous of the city, could it?

I got to the end of the street after 5 mins.

So, in a nutshell, be prepared to see many whole streets totally grafittied, even historic buildings. I saw it in many other nearby streets, some even worse. It was an overriding factor that tarnished my visit here. I had never seen a city so vandalised in this way, (Bucharest in Romania comes a close second though!)

Rant over !

Don’t let it put a damper on your visit (sorry if it has put you off already). The city has some wonderful buildings and vistas and there have been attempts to clear this up in the old town centre, hopefully more is being done to counter this now.

I exited the street and saw ahead of me to my left the thing I had been heading for.

Dragon’s Bridge

The symbol of the city of Ljubljana is the dragon. It appears on the city’s emblem and flag and is supposed to engender grandeur and power. It is a city mascot, symbol on many clubs and is a city trademark also. It also appears here as statues on both sides of the otherwise art deco bridge from 1900.

There is the Greek old legend that Jason of Jason and the Argonauts stopped at the site of present-day Ljubljana on his way home. They came across a large lake and a marsh where a swamp monster lived. Jason heroically fought this monster (or dragon) and finally killed it. Jason was supposed to be the first citizen of the city.

Alternatively, the dragon is also supposed to come from St George (and the dragon) fame. The castle has a St George chapel and St George killing the dragon is supposed to represent Christianity overcoming paganism.

Take your pick which you prefer!

Dragon’s Bridge is a relatively small vehicular bridge but there are several exquisite green coppered street lamps on it wall. It does attract a lot of people to it however to see these wonderfully creative dragon statues, arching in aggression.

It does give great views down the river and across to the riverside arcade to one side. The spire of Ljubljana Cathedral can be seen in the background.

Ljubljana Central Market

After walking over the bridge towards the castle – you can’t miss it as its atop that huge hill in front of you, turn tight.

Here is an old arcade that lines the river. The units in this covered arcade are full of small eateries and shops and if it’s raining or you need shade from the sun in an open-air environment, then here is where to stop. Alternatively, on the opposite side are many old buildings converted into restaurants with awnings under which to sit and people watch.

The square in front, along with the classically styled building to one side, is the open/indoor central market

The market is split into sections. There is a general clothing, homewares, trinkets area with semi covered permanent stalls. They are mostly filled with cheap and everyday clothing items and associated goods but worth a wander.

The other side is a big square, that doubles as a car park when not being used as a Farmers Market on certain days. The stalls are regular ones and everyday fruit and vegetables can be got here on a fairly non- descript design of stalls.

The square called Vodnik Square, houses a statue to Valentin Vodnik at one end, that was placed here in 1889. Valentin Vodnik was a Carniolan priest, poet and journalist (1758−1819). The statue, made of bronze on a stone pedestal, has a famous verse from his writing on one side in Slovene.

Funicular to the castle

Well, you’ve guessed from the title where I am headed next !

Look up towards the castle perched on the top of the wooded hill. The view from the top is astounding and there are several ways to reach it. You can go off to your left and follow the road and then the roadways up a long and winding road to the top. Great if you have the time and energy or you can take the easy way, by paying to use the modern funicular.

There is a large City Hall looking type building in a square to one side and opposite the Central Market area. Head towards this building and cross the square heading to the right. Set among older, classic buildings right beside this building, (it is the well-known Puppet Theatre), is a modern glass and steel entrance and waiting area for the funicular. Click here for info on the funicular

There is a modest, each way fee for the funicular and if you are doing a lot of walking today, as I always do, then its worth paying to use it to get to the castle. It runs every 10 mins approx’ and the journey is a very short2 mins or so. You can also buy your entrance ticket to the castle here.

It is amazing though, as it is basically a big glass box set at an angle to the rails that slowly raises itself heavenwards. The views through the floor to ceiling glass panes are amazing, so position yourself facing outwards from the hill to get the best views (and photo opps).

The alternative is, I reckon a long 25 mins walk up the sloping walkway beside a road to the top.

Check the timings for the funicular as at certain times of the year it doesn’t start until 10am so you earlybirds will have to take the walking route.

Ljubljana Castle

To get to the top of the hill there are several ways of doing it. As suggested here, the funicular is the quickest and least exhausting, but there are several up-hill routes from the base of the mount.

Some are long and sloping others are short but with steps and sharper inclines. You can drive up and park and there is also a bus that drops off at the top. Click here for the castles website for tickets and more info on how to get up that mount!

The castle started life as a wooden defensive fortification from the 11th Century.

Little remains of this, as the castle was completely rebuilt with new towers and walls in the 15th Century and a chapel – St George’s, which is still here, constructed.

Today it is used for civic functions (including weddings) as it has large function rooms. Concerts and even plays are often performed here There is also a cafe and a small museum here.

The funicular takes you into the castle under the walls but the original drawbridge entrance (now with a stone bridge) is on another side of the castle. Here is also the Gunpowder room and the prison.

I entered via the funicular whose entrance comes out into a section of the inner walls and then via a walkway in the central massive open courtyard.

This courtyard is enormous and shows the surrounding buildings off beautifully as there are no trees or other constructions in the middle to obscure the views. It was originally a gathering ground for the army before marching off and then the open yard for the prisoners kept in the prison.

Part of the courtyard contains the older stone worked buildings that face towards the plateau of the hill. The newer buildings raised above the walls are whitewashed and face towards the precipice and the main city area.

Near the whitewashed walls is a well, (I could find no info on it onsite to tell you more about it) and the entrances to various buildings, which can be explored at will.

St George’s Chapel, Ljubljana Castle

If you want a glorious assault upon the eyes then head for St George’s Chapel. The interior is magnificently restored and the ceiling a wonder of colour in pinks and blues. There was a guide here who was happy to speak to anyone in any language and described the heraldic coats of arms and a little about the history of the chapel.

So why do most people come to this castle? To put it bluntly, apart from enjoying the history and architecture of the place, I reckon most are here to get the views across the city from its walls. It certainly doesn’t disappoint on that and even if only for this reason, the castle is a must see!

I could see right across the city to the outskirts and even to hills on the outer edge of the city that I never realised were there.

The pics are a little burred. The day was very misty when I awoke in the morning (more like a light fog) and I was worried if I would even see anything once I got to the top. I could see enough to know that this vista was stupendous and luckily the mist cleared enough by the time I was there to see enough.

The castle also contains a high class restaurant, a small museum and plenty of walkways around the interior and exterior.

If you really want some added excitement you can climb the wide steps to the top of the tower or look out through its windows over the old Town area of Ljubljana.

Ljubljana Old Town

Taking the funicular back down I arrived at the Central market Square area again and from here was to be a short walk along the main street. Beautifully restored 19th Century buildings lined the route. They had been impressively restored and show the grandeur that the city once held at the time of building these edifices.

Many were restaurants catering to the obvious tourist around but I noticed locals were in big numbers with their kids doing the shopping and general “retail therapy”. The streets are mainly pedestrianised in the centre which adds to the calm and peace of being able to wander at will.

You can see from the pics that several side streets are still awaiting their restorations. I suspect that these are private dwellings and have so far escaped being converted into hotels, B&B’s or restaurants. Anyone with cash for the redevelopment would be well advise to look at Ljubljana for the opportunities it provides in this field!

Ljubljana Cathedral

The road I was on eventually leads to what could be called the centre of the Old Town area. Before we get there, you will see (or maybe not because it is well disguised, intentionally or not) the Cathedral. I say disguised because the street is lined with magnificent houses and palace type buildings and the wall of the cathedral is just that, a wall .

It has a few larger windows that may give it away, look for the odd shaped semi-circular ones, where the bottom half has been filled in. The small stone cement bollards in front with an unassumingly decorated entrance is another giveaway.

This is actually a side entrance despite being on the main road and is often not used.

To get to the main entrance, and the one best used to gain the full majesty of entering, slip down the alleyway just further along. The doorway sits under a large metal curved canopy with modernist 1966 bronze (now a dark green metal) doors. It were created to commemorate Pope John Paul’s visit .

I almost missed it as it is so small and discreet as an entrance to a Cathedral!

There is an entrance fee for tourists but its worth it to see probably the most ornate Baroque church in Ljubljana. The ceiling fresco is amazingly colourful, dare I say over-the-top and the pink marble columns standing out against the white marble walls, with gilded embellishment is a grand sight.

It’s officially called St Nicolas’s Church and has been burned down twice since its origins in 1262. The present day form dates from its reconstruction of 1706.  The belfry still contains an original bell from 1326 (second oldest bell in Slovenia) and is complimented by the newer ones from 1706.

A stop by here to admire the opulence and richness of the design is a must. I would advise going on a bright day or early morning before any darker afternoon as the sun shining through the higher windows does show of the ceiling fresco to its best. I visited on a dull, misty day and the interior was dim – no flash photography allowed. The pics here are thus duller than they could be.

Do check opening times beforehand though as it was closed (don’t know why) at midday when I first visited, but was open a few hours later.

Town Hall square 

Walking out from the Cathedral and back along the wide main street through Old Town, you will come to the Town Hall Square (more of a meeting of roads than a square as such). In font of the Town Hall to the left, with its extension into the street and topped by a turreted clock, is the Robba Fountain.

If you want a photo opp of a creative fountain with classic buildings as a backdrop, here is where you will get it.

The present fountain is actually an identical copy. Its design was inspired by the fountains the artist saw in Rome. The original was seen as too important to remain unprotected in the street and was removed to the National Gallery in the city, in 2006, where it can still be seen on display.

The fountain dates from 1751 and is full of symbolism. The steps represent the mountains, the fountain is shell shaped, the three men holding jugs represent the three nearby rivers and ancient territories.

Wandering Ljubljana Old Town areas

I had seen quite a lot today but the day was still young as I was up early to get in as many sights as possible. Also the central area is mostly pedestrianised and actually quite small. The sites are concentrated together so it is literally as case of popping into the next place en route and definitely no having to catch public transport between them – they are a few mins walk away!

I decided to indulge and just take in the views of the wonderfully restored buildings and the general olde worlde but significant atmosphere it was creating. The main Old Town street just follows round the base of hilltop castle so I continued along. It winds slightly but at each few steps I encountered yet another masterpiece of architecture.

As you walk down the street look out to the left. About halfway down this street you will see a side street to the right and a bridge over the nearby river. Take the street and walk onto the bridge.

Cobbler’s Bridge

The original bridge dated from the 13th Century and was one of the oldest bridges in the city. It originally house butchers shops on it but the stench was so bad they were removed and shoemakers installed instead (hence its present name). Several bridges of various designs (wood, metal and stone) and been built here but the one we see today dates from 1932 by Joze Plecnik – we have heard of him before as he was the city great architect at the time,

The bridge holds Corinthian columns as decorations and also Ionic columns holding the lamps. in the centre.

For a great shot of the castle do as I did. Stand on the opposite side of the bridge to the hill and look upwards. You get a marvellous view of the perched castle through the side street and picturesque old houses with the bridge columns framing the pic.

So, from here continue walking back down the original street.

Yep, I love my walking, wandering and watching – it was just so relaxing to see these beautiful edifices and imagine the history they contained. Many were now artisan shops or stores selling more high-end goods – clothing, wine shops, creative food and grocery stores – delightful.

I wanted to get to the end of the street to a couple of places and then cross the bridge to return along the opposite embankment of the river.

St James Church and St Mary’s Column

The street ends with St James Church, which was closed. Pity as I wanted to see the interior but the exterior didn’t disappoint. It had an almost alpine feel to its design, despite being built in 1615 with its long sloping tiled roof and grey stone plain belfry/clock tower. Unusually the slender spire had grey slates, unlike the traditional red terracotta tiles.

Outside is St Mary’s Column, commemorating the Hapsburg victory over the Ottoman Turks. Its almost unique in the city and whilst neither were particularly famous, they caught my eye in their more rural village-like settings.

The side streets around here often lead up to pathways and walkway up the the castle mound. The properties may be less well maintained (clearly some are a few hundred years old) and in need of reparations, but again the rural village-like atmos hung over the area.

From here, I decided that I had a couple of hours left before I would tire and would need to get to the hotel to rest and eat.

The nearby St Jame’s Bridge was to be my crossing point across the river and and a chance to get some shots of the houses lining the river embankment

Once over the bridge I was to enter into what was the old Roman Rectangular fort area of ancient Ljubljana (or Iulia Emona as the Romana called it). The Roman walls are still here – well a long section further away. Whilst they were of importance I’d seen pictures and it was …. a long low wall. I decided to skip it, as it meant a long walk there and back, and headed down a side street.

The side street leads eventually, on the left to a small rectangular square.

French Revolution Square

Curious you may ask yourself. Why would there be a Square in Ljubljana commemorating the French Revolution?

Well, Napoleon conquered this area, which he renamed Illyria. He actually liberated it from the Austrians and returned semi-autonomy, the Slovene language and culture back to the Slovenes.

The locals appreciated this and a 13 metre high stone pillar was erected. On the north side is a bust of Napoleon inset into the column and on the south side one of Illyria. On top is a crescent moon with three stars.

It is the only monument to Napoleon in Europe outside France and this square was thus renamed.

On one side sits the pink-walled, green domed Our lady of help Church (again unable to enter). On the other sits some classic 18th Century (now) apartment buildings. To one side is the entrance to BRINA and at the other, the column.

BRINA is an event venue. You can wander into the entrance area which is a large courtyard with old buildings attached (not sure if they once belonged to the attached church). There is a modern outdoor theatre/amphitheatre beyond but the peace within the courtyard was astounding. An ancient setting that was quiet, especially with me being the only person admiring all this.

From here, my route was to be just passing by the buildings and places of merit and admiring from the outside. These places were either off limits to visitors or just not worth entering as the exterior was enough to see.

My walk would simply take me down this long main road, eventually ending in Preseren Square, which was my finishing point.

Next up was

National and University library.

Now this would not normally get my attention – a library is a library, full of books and usually not worth entering. Unless you are visiting the Alexandria Library in Egypt (which I was to do later in the year), or Trinity University Library in Dublin to see the famous Book of Kells, I wouldn’t advise making the detour.

This time there was no detour and everything I had read said the building was worth a look from the outside …. and it is. It’s a strange design in what is essentially a very grand 17-18th Century majestic building strewn Ljubljana.

The walls are set with irregular and contrasting grey stone blocks and orange bricks. The effect is a dappled one of colour blocks and quite avant-garde and different for the city.

The Slovenian National Library has been around in many forms since 1774. This building was actually constructed in 1936-41 and to me had a warehouse/industrial aspect. The famous architect Joze Plecnik, who was responsible for much of the period architecture of the city, designed and constructed it.

Every publication in Slovenia is required by law to send a copy to its archives.

Noteworthy is that the building is to be replaced as it has outgrown its present site and the modern digital age does not fit in this old building. However, they have been discussing and planning this new building, which will be built literally across the road for over 30 years!

Walk further on down and you will see one of the University buildings almost on the opposite corner from the Library. It kinda gives the view why they needed to expand from these classic but small historic buildings into something a bit bigger!

Once you reach the view above of the rectangular plaza surrounded by painted classical buildings, with a view across the river and upwards to the castle, you will know we have arrived at our next location..

These views, effectively down wide side streets, are a common sight along this route. They encapsulate a past era in the buildings with a view upwards, showing how the castle, perched on the hill, dominates the city.

Just remember also that this street is pretty much following along the line of one of the walls of the old Roman settlement.

Congress Square 

Here, the street opens onto a large square with several noteworthy buildings. One side of the square is paved and houses most of what we are about to see. The other side houses a shady arrangement of trees, lawns and walkways.

To one side you have the strange but interestingly shaped Church/Monastery of Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity. Strange because the curvy, pointed roofline seems overly large. Its set upon 18th century classic columns and looks like a semi-church, semi-residential building. If you were to go to the other side of the building that faces the modern shopping complex the view is very different – almost Slavic castle in look.

This side of the street holds a collection of buildings that blend into one another so you don’t see the end of one and the beginning of another. They contain the church and monastery but also the Slovenian School Museum, hotels and eateries.

Two other impressive buildings here are the University building and the Philharmonia building.

The white faced and grey roofed University is very imposing and almost like a “Grand Dame” Hotel. The massive entrance portico and the small turrets on the roofline give it a atmosphere of grandeur and was clearly designed to impress. The small circular driveway to its entrance, despite being in a pedestrianised area ,shows that in its day, carriages were supposed to drive to its entrance.

Thus, the much smaller and plainer home of the Slovenian Philharmonia Orchestra dating from 1891 is dwarfed by this building. Its design is almost understated, looking more like a bank and only the lettering above the front gives away its purpose.

Among the walkways in the park area is a replica statue of an Emoniian (original Roman occupants of Ljubljana when it was called Emona). It was discovered when excavations were done to build a nearby building in 1836 and there are explanation info boards about Roman Emona that are worth a read.

The park also contains a small bandstand, that seems relatively unused.

A walk through the leafy shade in Summer gives you respite from the sun and there are many benches to rest on. Most people however seem to be using it as a cut-through from one side to the other.

Below the square is a large carpark – you will probably see the glass and stone entrances leading downwards. It is probably the most central car park in the city centre and have the added bonus of public toilets here too. However, I would park, for free, further out and walk in. Wherever you park will probably mean you need to pass some sightseeing place on the way in and out.

Walk along the side of the square containing the Philharmonia building and pass the bandstand. Ahead of you, just as you get to the cafe, look right and there is a view of the latest addition to the river’s embankment. Take the small side street that leads to this bridge

Ribja Bridge 

This small but significant bridge was finally built here in 2014. It design is so minimalistic – a flat stone walkway with glass low walls that it feels more like a shopping mall walkway. It is brilliantly modern but so low key that it does not detract from the surrounding historic buildings.

Called Ribja Brv, or ‘Fishmarket’s Footbridge’, it has been erected in the exact location originally envisaged by architect Joze Plecnik (the master-planner who designed much of Ljubljana’s city centre in the first half of the 20th century).

The bridge was never built as the architect died before implementation and so here is its replace around 100 years late!

Blink and you might miss it. It’s worth the slight detour to one side just to stand on this thoroughly modern design bridge that is such a wonderful addition to the old town without detracting from its elegant history.

Now carry on either along the river embankment on either side in the direction we were going or go back to the corner at take that road (full of small cafes and shops. Either way you will arrive at what is possibly the iconic view of Ljubljana in its most famous square..

A heavy mist, almost fog-like was now beginning to descend on the city. With the fading late afternoon light I was aware that my pics were becoming less sharp and a bit mist-like. I needed to hurry now to get shots of what I needed and to be able to enjoy the rest of the day before it ended early!

Preseren Square 

The square used to be called St Mary’s Square after a church that stood here. Now the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation dominates the area.  It was redeveloped as a central meeting of roads in 1895 after the famous earthquake here that destroyed much of the city. The older small buildings were torn down and more palatial ones built that we see today

It was further redeveloped in 1980 when it was resurfaced in granite blocks and in 2007 as part of the general pedestrianisation of Ljubljana city centre. Today a statue to the Slovenian national poet Preseren stands here (placed in 1905) along with tress planted some years later.

The area is used so often as an events centre, protest meeting gathering point and general outdoor events that it rare to see it actually empty of some type of paraphernalia. Indeed it was on the times I visited.

The building standing prominently to one side is not what it seems. It’s grand enough to be a bank or opera house but is simply a central pharmacy – practical enough! Another decorative building housing a bank stands here too with what is a overhanging roof end. The whole scene is slightly surreal in its semi-hotchpotch of positioning of buildings and bridge but does give a fabulous atmosphere of Ljubljana’s architectural splendour.

The views from the centre show the Franciscan church (more on that later) on one side. On another there is a view across the triple Bridge and up to the castle perched on the hill. In fact from most places in the city it is usual to get a view of the castle up on high, so prominently is it situated. Another gives views along commercial streets and more along the river embankments.

On any given day this is probable the most tourist-laden area of the city – in many ways justly so due to its magnificence. Try visiting early or late to avoid the crowds and be able to get the views freely.

The Triple Bridge

There was a bridge here in 1280 and successive ones constructed in 1657 and the latest main part in 1862. They have been called Old Bridge, Lower Bridge, Spital Bridge, Franciscan Bridge and now todays version called The Triple Bridge.

It was not originally designed as it is today. The central bridge was the one from 1862, but the architect Joze Plecnik – here’s that name again – decided it was congested. He built two smaller pedestrian bridges to each side, at an angle to the central one. Today all three are pedestrianised and form the link across the river from next door Preseren Square, up to the old town’s Robba Fountain in front of the Town Hall.

The effect is unique. At first I did not see the river below as the bridge being flat and level with the square seemed a mere extension of the square. I wondered what all the balustrades along the walkways were and when I got closer realised they were balustrades to the sides of the bridge.

The balustrades and side bridges are made of concrete and formed a somewhat Disneyesque look that seemed slightly out of place but definitely original. It somewhat blocked the river in its size which seemed a shame but there are plenty of beautiful river views further along its course nearby.

Just before I left the bridge area, the skies suddenly lit up and there was blue sky through the clouds. The daylight suddenly reappeared for 20 mins and I got in a few better shots of the area before I needed to move on.

Franciscan Church of the Annunciation Ljubljana

You have probably noticed the terracotta building in the background to many of the Preseren Square shots. Well, this is possibly the most visited church in Ljubljana.

I have to say that while it is very popular I didn’t personally find the interior that amazing. Don’t get me wrong, it was interesting and no doubt historical as it dates from 1660. It is very pretty and eye catching from the outside and that was one of the reasons it also caught me in its web to visit the inside.

It’s interesting that its Baroque styled exterior incorporated ionic and corinthian columns just as the Cobblers Bridge we saw earlier did.

The interior was also mainly designed by Robba – the Italian architect who built the Robba Fountain opposite the Town Hall that we also passed by earlier.

It did suffer damage in the 1895 earthquake and its ceiling frescoes were renovated in the thirties as a result.

What was interesting inside was the several small side chapels. Each was decorated in its own style and colours and were extremely peaceful and quiet. Nothing unusual in that I suppose as we are in a church which usually carry those attributes. I think it was because the chapels were small and on the cozy side. with vaulted ceiling and painted murals on the walls, that the sombreness emanated all around .

The attached Monastery was founded in 1233 and contains over 70,000 important books and manuscripts.

If you want a feast of architectural delights of commercial and residential buildings from the turn of the 19th century, then wander up the long Miklosiceva street and others nearby alongside the church.

These buildings show the grandeur of Ljubljana in its heyday when stone buildings full of pomp and ceremony were built. The 5 star Union Hotel here is just one of these beauties.

My day was now done and all that was left to do was walk the 15 mins back to the hotel from Preseren Square.

I took the side street next to the big pharmacy building and walked along the embankment back to the Dragon Bridge where it had all started. On the way I re-entered into the graffiti-strewn street that I had earlier remarked upon. Despite the less pleasant view it was the quickest way back and my legs were telling me it was time to rest.

Surprisingly on that street I came across a row of shops that had decided to repaint their walls to get rid of the graffiti and what a welcome sight it was. It just shows how attractive the old street could be if repainted and there was even a sign outside one advertising that “It’s always wine o’clock”. Something I could well agree on in this street!

Day two in Ljubljana

Today was going to be a cultural/art day I decided.

I had seen enough churches and old restored buildings to the point that another church may not impress me at all. I was determined to enjoy the better weather, in the open air and  see some of the more modern buildings …. at least that was my intention, it didn’t quite work out that way.

My first stop was at the other end of town so I decided to walk there and work my way back towards the centre. That way my final walk back to the hotel would be a short one, after what I assumed was going to be a long walking day.

Museum of Modern Art Ljubljana

The Museum was formally opened in 1948, when Slovenia was then a Republic within the Former Yugoslavia. It seems there was a need for this Museum as the next door National Gallery was running out of display space and the modern art section was placed here.

The building itself is a rather plain and functional affair, typical of the East European style of the time. It thus has a much less grand look than the nearby National Gallery. The style certainly indicates that the works inside are similar – at opposite ends of the art world.

It’s not expensive to get in – 5 Euros when I was there – and you can buy a combined ticket for its sister Museum of Contemporary Art at Metelkova street in the city. Effectively you get the second place for half price. I bought the combined one as I planned to see the other one too.

The museum’s entrance is at a particularly well sited place as the wide promenade walkway to the massive Tivoli Gardens is right in front. These Gardens give great views over the city and is a well maintained green oasis in the city full of benches and walkways.

I didn’t go there. Partially because the park is so huge and the walk there and back would be long and to see most of it would take ages – time that I didn’t have on this occasion. Many times I wish I had given myself a couple of extra days here as there is more to see than I envisaged.

The museum’s collection covers modern art from around 1900, much of it Slovenian

The exhibits were inspiring. There were some thought provoking artwork from the Yugoslav dictatorship times and some from Slovenia as it emerged into democracy.

The paintings were what I would expect to find in a museum of modern art so didn’t disappoint and the fact that most (but not all) were Slovenian artists made it all the more eye opening.

I definitely felt that the Museum was worth more than the 5 Euros it cost and I was looking forward to seeing what its sister Museum would offer in the form of Contemporary Art.

Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church Ljubljana

Walking out of the Museum I saw a small building across the way. I immediately recognised it as being an Orthodox church from the golden crosses surmounted on its 5 domed roof.

It intrigued me as although I knew there was a church here, (and I did say to myself that today there was to be no church visits), I had no plans to visit it.

I wandered closer and the beige walls grey roof and cuteness of it just drew me in….. I went in.

Just to say … you must visit it. It has wooden carved walls and separators that are amazing and well maintained. They only date from the 1940’s, in fact I was surprised to read that the church itself was finished in only 1936. The inlaid gold icons were shimmering even though it was not bright inside.

The painted frescoes completely filled the walls and ceiling and were so colourful and decorative.

All the time I was virtually the only person in here so had free reign to go anywhere and take pics. It smelt of incense and the shade gave it a reverent air. I loved it. I would even say that this little church was more splendid that the big famous one everyone goes to visit in Preseren Square.

National Gallery of Art

I couldn’t get into the National Gallery. I hadn’t planned to go inside but when I walked past this elegant building its exterior changed my mind. The edifice dates from 1896 and was originally designed as a national cultural centre.

Click here for Gallery info

The art that went into the gallery in 1925, as The national Gallery of Slovenia, had been housed in a palace near Preseren Square previously.

Artworks are mainly by Slovenian artists and thus it was not on my list to see. It has a big glass extension to the rear in which the original Robba Fountain (a copy sits opposite the Town Hall presently) is displayed. I’d seen the replica so was I even going to notice the difference with that and the original here?

Never did find out why the Gallery was closed – opening times said it should be open and there was no sign on the doors saying why it was closed.

Opera and Ballet House

Opera was first performed in Slovenia on the site of the Philharmonic Building we saw earlier in 1732. Today’s Opera and Ballet House was built in 1892 and started with theatre and opera. Ballet joined the ensemble in the building in 1918.

The box office and info desk is actually located at the side of the building – right hand side as you look at its decorated facade.

There is a huge black extension that sits at the back. It jars against what is a beautiful belle époque style building and is basically the new stage area.

I didn’t go in – all was locked up as it was daytime but click here for the website if you want to check out in advance for any performances.

Slovenian Parliament building

This building certainly came as a surprise. With all the classically inspired architectural wonders in the city, it is based here.

It is definitely an austere, modernist building built in 1959, so I guess copying the functional, plain style of the era. The three storey, concrete building resembles an office block and has only the main frontage area at ground level with anything on it that may state its importance. Uniquely both the Upper and Lower chambers of Parliament are housed within.

The entrance area has four big oak wood doors and four large rectangular windows above. The surrounds and top area have a multitude of simple naked figurines representing workers and is actually very artistic. The darkness of the metal does make it somewhat hard to see the definitions on a gloomy grey day such as today’s.

I was hesitant about taking photos, fearful that guards may not appreciate it and come out, so I gradually walked forward. No-one came out and I was virtually able to reach the doors. It was refreshing to be able to take pics of the building that represents democracy for the relatively new country.

It faces the huge, plain and empty Republic Square, with its two mini skyscrapers in equally plain and unattractive style. Next door, in again a plain building, is an upmarket shopping Mall with a car park below.

Just got to say it, whilst the entrance sculptures are interesting, the bland building on a bland square does represent for me one of the most boring settings for a Parliament that I have seen.

Presidential Palace 

I did take a pic of the American Embassy as I passed by on the road from the Parliament Building to the presidential Palace.

Why? Well, it just caught my eye as it was a little Transylvanian with its turrets, wooden exposed beams and cladding and with a tall but narrow style. Here was where a guard did watch me as I took a pic but luckily he did no more than that. I wanted to get a pic of the next door Russian embassy but did not dare.

The US Embassy stands right next to the Russian Embassy. In fact if someone threw a stone from one or the other embassies window they could easily reach the other one across the fence.

Is there anywhere else in the world where the Russian and American Embassies are next-door to each other?

The Presidential Palace was huge. In a beautifully classical building of carved stone and arched windows. It’s set on the roadside and the pavement, which pedestrians use along its sides, means that you could virtually touch the building as you strolled by.

Ok, the city centre was complete now and there was only one last place to see before I could effectively tick the box for Ljubljana.

I now had to walk back to the hotel as the Museum was literally round the corner from my hotel. At least it will be a short walk home after seeing my last place and my legs were telling me that too.

I reached my hotel, but walked past it. Just behind my hotel, about 4 mins walk away was the sister museum to the Modern Art Museum that I had seen earlier.

Museum of Contemporary Art Metelkova

This Museum was built from renovated old military buildings on a large square. The older Museum of Modern Art I had just seen had such a huge stock of artwork that another was needed to display much more and in 2011 this newer one was opened. Here was to be centred much later works and more avant-garde ideas in art, some works were less than 20 years old.

The complex is one of several other small Museums here, all facing onto a huge courtyard. Several of the facades to the blocks have had a modern makeover of different styles, some concrete, some glass and one that looked more like scaffolding.

The setting is quite unique as there are residential apartments nearby and the central courtyard has a lawn with modern artwork and an underground cinema.

I was left in two minds about the modern extensions. I get that glass and steel etc can be added to 100 year old building to compliment the design but a couple of these just looked ugly to me. The main museum just looked like pre-fabricated strips of asbestos like stone at sloping angles with slit windows. I defo didn’t get the juxtaposition or compliment it added to the building.

Click here for the website for opening times and ticket info 

It’s sad to say, and its possibly only the second time I have said this of any museum ….. I didn’t enjoy it.

I’m quite the culture vulture and art lover and am constantly astounded at works I see around the world, often the wackier the better. They promote thinking and stimulus and I always, always get into as many galleries/museums as time merits.

Here, I was not impressed. Yep, as always there were a few items that I liked but the vast majority were not particularly what I would call art. They were so simplistic and unimaginative that I just kept walking through rooms not even stopping to inspect further much of what I was seeing. Artworks were ….. coloured squares on a floor …. what? Another was just an everyday worn cane chair literally stapled to the wall ….. and? Another had pieces of coloured curved and rolled paper on a box!

Nope, this was childish and pretentious to me and showed little artistic ability or thought. I probably spent around 20 mins in the whole building and left deflated – glad I got it for half price!

So, if you get here tell me what you think. Am I right or wrong? What are your thoughts on this art gallery?

My final thoughts on Ljubljana

So, Ljubljana all finished. I have to say the city surprised me. I was not expecting so much to see and such a well organised place. The Old Town with the castle perched on the huge hill overlooking the city is a delight. The newer modern part from the 1920-40’s was equally interesting – well layed out and with the important buildings all close to each other.

A few surprises in a couple of places I did not like (unusual for me) but the overwhelming feel was of a small capital, steeped in history and architectural delights. It had a somewhat affluent feel despite a few buildings in old town still awaiting their renovation, which they will surely get.

If like me you are using Ljubljana as a staging or starting post it is ideal. Frequent and easy modern coaches and trains depart to the many nearby other “must see” places – Zagreb, Venice, Graz, Rijeka etc etc.

I notice budget airlines have now made Ljubljana a major fight hub and my flight there was certainly very cheap due to this. I even saw many coaches that link the airport with others cities waiting outside in the small coach parking area.

Klagenfurt, in southern Austria, even had its own dedicated bus lane with coaches arriving often for the cross-border trip. Clearly Ljubljana is a nearer airport to southern Austrian cities than Vienna or even Graz.

Ljubljana is getting busy as a tourist centre – get there before it becomes too busy!

Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.