Egypt – Giza Pyramids

The Giza Pyramids, Egypt

One of the Seven Wonders of the World – if you are not impressed by these massive monuments then nothing will impress you! This was a crowning moment in my travels. They had been one of the first things on my list of “world must-sees” and now I am here staring in amazement at these wonderful constructions. Walk through the sands, enter the pyramids and clamber to the central burial chamber. You can even take a camel or horse and carriage ride around the site and climb the walls of a pyramid. Remember to take the selfie with a backdrop of pyramids that will leave your friends green with envy. If you want something different, catch the nightly “sound and light show” and return home satisfied that you have visited one of the most important historical sites in the world.

This is one of the four sites I visited in Lower Egypt. The others being Alexandria, Cairo, and finally Sakkara and Memphis. I also compiled a gude as to how to get from Cairo to Alexandria by train. Click on the names to see the others and get the whole Lower Nile experience.

I feel a little history is needed here to give context to this incredible place. The Pyramids are one of the most iconic sites in the world (the only one of the “Seven wonders of the World” still in existence) and a must see for any serious world traveller. The size and bulk of the colossal structures leave you gasping …..well they did me !

Giza Pyramids

The Giza Pyramids site is actually more than just Pyramids, as it is an archaeological site in itself. They are actually situated in the area called Giza, (hence why they are called the Giza Pyramids!), 9 km from central Cairo – but Giza is the name given to almost one half of the city of Cairo as the city extends up to the banks of the Nile and up to the walls of the complex.

The site is actually a complete mortuary site, as it was constructed to house the remains of the deceased Pharaohs who ruled over Ancient Egypt in the 4th Dynasty. Remains have been found here that date from 2500BC ie about 4500 years ago ! Amazing.

There are 3 main Pyramids, each built for a Pharaoh – Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure, and you can go inside each one and also go inside one of the mini pyramids near them. which are often not explored. There are the remains of the workers village, a ruined commercial area and cemeteries for workers. The sphinx sits/lies near one of the entrances.

Ok, history lesson over as this could go on forever but I seriously invite you to read up on the history of the Giza Pyramids site as it will give you such a better insight into what you are seeing and why. It will help you understand the area and to ask yourself – “how on earth did they build these when we would struggle even today to do the same”?

Right, let’s get with the pics and my adventure today, exploring these wonderful structures.

Luckily my hotel sits directly in front of the site and every morning at breakfast and evening from the bar or breakfast terrace I get this sight while I munch/drink away! …… fabulous!

The hotel’s position could not be better and there are actually several others in the surrounding streets with a similar view. I was not expecting to be up so close and it was a real perk of staying here. The view alone was worth it !

I went inside one of the 3 major Giza Pyramids and one of the three mini ones to the side of the Khufu Pyramid called Queen Hetephere’s Tomb. The entrance ticket is £15 but this just gets you into the site and a free entrance to this mini tomb. You have to pay about the same again to go in each of the 3 major pyramids so it is not cheap to visit this site! Wear trainers, not sandals or flip flops as your feet need protection on the climbs and lots of the way is like walking on a beach, so sand/stones get everywhere!

Where to buy your tickets to enter the Giza Pyramids.

I entered from one of three entrances, but mine was the entrance in front of the Sphinx. You buy tickets for the site to get in but if you want tickets to go inside the major 3 pyramids they don’t sell these tickets at this entrance. People outside may say you buy them inside but what that means is that you have to hike across to the other (main) entrance near the Khufu Pyramid.

I learned this to my cost despite the hotel and other Egyptians saying I can get tickets at my entrance – I learned to take Egyptian advice often with a pinch of salt after too many times being given wrong info by them. I paid and went into the site and having studied my route beforehand started to make my way up the tarmacked road past the huge Sphinx to my left.

Street sellers at Giza Pyramids – like ’em or loathe ’em?

Yep, the street hawkers were on me within minutes and literally every 10 paces someone is (often quite aggressively) trying to sell you t-shirts, souvenirs, wooden mini Giza Pyramids. You have to get used to saying no thank you, head down and move on ignoring them – unless you want something of course.

Stop to look or reply fully and you are in a non ending question conversation with which they follow you along the road, till they get the message. “Where are you from?” was the constant question. If you reply you are from UK they reply “Luvely jubbly” or “Tally Ho”……. Funny the first time, excruciating by the 50th. Such is the experience here !

I walked past the Sphinx knowing I would be coming back to it later and headed to my right up the road and then a small detour right to go inside a small temple.

Nice, but fairly ordinary but it was good to get the lay of the land from here. After coming out I carried on up the road and then turned right down a walkway with the first major pyramid on my right. There is a modern structure in front of one face of the Great Pyramid – this is the display building of the ceremonial boat found buried at the base of the pyramid. Ticket to go inside is extra.

You go past various walls and stone blocks till you see three smaller, much worn pyramids to your right with lots of rocks and blocks scattered around on the ground. A small shack appears on the right and you head to it, via a small walkway, above a carved stone drop-wall below.

Pyramid of Queen Henutsen

The mini Pyramid is the only one that is included in your entrance ticket. Here the entrance is via a little shack almost hidden to one side, so best to somehow get a map of the site to orientate yourself or you will miss some things.

The guys at the entrance help you in and there are disclaimer signs up and warnings about the cramped conditions. You have to bend down and gently, step by step, lower yourself down along a wooden sloping board with small raised bumpers to give you traction as you walk down.

Warning – entrance to any tomb is not recommended if you have mobility problems. issues with lots of steps or are not reasonable fit. I am quite fit and found it hot and a little strenuous at the effort needed to get inside and back out of them all…..but I would not have missed this for the world. !!!

The descent is about 6 mins and you have to literally semi crawl or squat walk up or down as you cannot stand upright in this mini pyramid’s corridor down (as in pics). You then come out into a small stone cut, fairly non descript, chamber. No paintings, hieroglyphics or monuments, just a roughly hewn chamber with some steps and what looks like a big bath tub area!

It did feel a bit of a let down for the effort and expectation and it can get a bit busy if lots of tourists are here but this is 4000 years of history you are standing in ! Remember that you may have to even give way on the very narrow boards going up or down, so is not for the faint hearted ….. !

Giza Eastern Cemetery

I clambered out and decided to walk around the large Eastern Cemetery. This is now just tumbled down huge walls with sandy walkways but I found it enchanting.

It was like a deserted and tumble-down walled village and is not really mentioned on the tourist guide, but is so atmospheric.

Not much to see but I wandered and soaked it up and ended up nearer the edge of the complex with views from here into the neighbouring suburbs. It is surprising to see that housing blocks are built virtually up to the complex’s walls and you do get a long-range view over this area too.

Back to the road and a walk around the Khufu Pyramid on my way to the far ticket office. You get a sense of the height of the pyramid from here as you have to strain to look up at the height. You can see that the walls are actually stepped, with huge blocks.

Originally these stepped areas would have been infilled with another smooth stone to create a perfectly flat smooth surface rising to the pinnacle. The creamy beige colour surprised me as I had always expected them to be more granite coloured.

Here you will see donkeys, camels and horse-driven carriages go by, often with a tourist on them. Get ready for the shouts to get your attention, as you will be constantly yelled at, to see if you want to buy a ride.

Not for me, as it seemed a little too cheesy/touristy and I had my own route I wanted to take anyhow.

I headed to the ticket office and from the road it is not easy to see where it is so asked a nearby policeman who pointed me in the direction of it (still couldn’t see it). I headed towards where I could see people walking up a hill toward me a little way away from a large coach park in the distance. I found I had to go out of the entrance to get the extra ticket to go inside a main pyramid.

I explained to an attendant what I needed and I needed to come back but that I had already paid and he understood and waved me through . Prices are per Pyramid so I chose one as I thought I would be Pyramided out if I bought for all three and had heard they were all similar anyhow. Back in and on to the first, nearest pyramid. Climbed the walls to get up to where I could see people going in/out.

The Giza Great Pyramid/ Khufu Pyramid/ Cheops Pyramid.

Well, it has three names – “Great” because it is the biggest and “Khufu” or “Cheops” according to how the Pharaoh’s name is interpreted and pronounced.

Remember there are no signs whatsoever as to where to go, walkways, directions to get to something on site etc so make sure you know where you re going and have a map. Outside are big signs saying “no photos inside”. Hid my camera as I went in and discreetly took a few pics – no-one monitoring as usual anyhow!

Inside is one heck of a climb up a huge long sloping board and steps contraption. At the halfway stage you have to go semi stooped as the ceiling, on the what is literally a corridor of steps, is so low. It is very hot inside and by the time you get up into the centre of the pyramid after 15 mins of climbing sweat was pouring from all of us – it felt like a sauna.

Take water if you are prone to dehydration as it will be uncomfortable otherwise. You are warned before entering how cramped and physical it is to get to the central tomb. The central Tomb is just a blank, dark stone, big room as all decoration has gone and there are no windows (obviously) but the sense that you are now in the middle of this huge monument, where others have stood thousands of years ago, is thrilling.

Take in the moment (the guards watch everyone now to ensure no photos are taken …why is photography banned?) and just think back 1000’s of years.

Well , I had done it. I had been inside the centre of the biggest Pyramid on earth – can anything else on this site beat this ! ? I came out to the fresh air and sat on the slopes looking out over part of the site to the ruins of buildings nearby and cooled down, while resting my weary back and legs.

Pyramid of Khafre and Pyramid of Menkaure.

So, on to the next pyramid, which really just became a walk-by admiring it, and onto the very last one. The smallest one – Menkaure – has a huge, kind of gash in one side. Why I don’t know as the entrance is lower down. I assume at some point this was an entrance cut into it, to explore the insides.

Between these two I walked through the sand for ages and I think many of the hawkers thought I was weird walking as everyone else rode donkeys/camels or was in a mini bus. I loved the walking and feeling the air, and occasional sand blast and felt honoured as I walked into the shadow of one pyramid and out in to the sun later as they are so high they can block the sun.

I walked back past old ruins and headed for the Sphinx. This is approached via the causeway which is really a huge wide stone walkway but when you are on it you don’t see it as a walkway as it is so big. You only get to see its outline when, for example, I sat on the hotel terrace and could make out what looked like a perfect smooth processional way. DI now continued on down to the Sphinx entrance, which is entered via a temple in ruins but perfectly restored.

Valley Temple of Khafre

The rectangular cut columns looked almost new compared to the weather worn stone of the pyramids and we were moved along the corridors. I approached what was the entrance and heard some guys there calling out and people hastening to get through the gate.

I joined and quickly got there, being the actual last person to enter, before an iron gate was shut behind me ….why I wondered. Later found out that the Sphinx part closes at 4:30pm and I was the very last person allowed in that day …. luck or what ! We now were allowed to walk the elevated walls next to the Sphinx and look across at it, in its glory.

Giza Sphinx.

Apparently it is agreed that the face is of Pharaoh Khafre (the middle Pyramid Pharaoh). There were so many people doing selfies here and it was funny to watch tourists doing the shot where someone takes a photo of their friend and it looks like they are kissing the Sphinx. Very funny and something to definitely remember the visit by!

On the way out you pass an area that has seating arranged ready for the evening “Giza Pyramids Light and Sound display”.

Giza Pyramids Light and Sound display

I had heard of this and the hotel said I would not need to pay to go back and see it as it is totally visible and audible from its terrace at 7:30 pm. I went up later and sat in a comfy chair with a drink and watched the sun set over the pyramids in the fading light with the sun lighting up the clouds in different hues. Later the event started and I easily saw the coloured light spectacular from the terrace.

The pics don’t do the show justice as my camera is not good at night photos but I was totally amazed at the sight of it, free and in such great surroundings. What a memory of my visit to the Giza Pyramids!

Jan 2019.