Monaco – Monte Carlo

Monte Carlo, Monaco

The yachts, the mega cars, the Palaces, the Marina, the 5 star hotels, the best restaurants, the events where everyone seems to be a millionaire. What can I say about Monaco – the playground of the rich and famous.  So, take your best and fit in as best you can ! One of the smallest countries in the world – I walked from one end to the other in 1.5 hours ! However, the thing you just must do, is go to the Casino …it’s not just for the privileged. Take your passport, dress well (no suit or tie needed actually), play the tables, dine in the restaurant and have a cocktails -“shaken not stirred” and lap up the vibe … I did and it was unforgettable. Oh, and while you are there, check out the hairpin bends and tunnels where they race Formula 1 through the actual streets!

I flew into Nice airport to get to Monaco- remember that Monaco is so small, an airport would not even fit into the whole country. The travel time between Nice Airport (Gare Saint Augustin) and Monaco – Monte Carlo varies from 16 to 38 mins depending on which train you catch but most take about 34 mins. They run from 05:54 to 23:29 and Monaco is only 18 Km from Nice Airport. Tickets cost between 5 and 10 Euros. See my post on how to get to Monaco by train from Nice airport here.

How to get to Monaco from Nice Airport by train.

There are buses to Monaco and of course taxis but It is super easy to catch the train, even though the station is not physically in the airport itself. It is about a 15 min walk though. If you arrive at Terminal 2 catch the shuttle bus to Terminal 1. From here outside the Terminal 1 building look to the left and you will see a road that enters the area via an underpass under the main highway.

The road goes between the two main car parks. There is a pedestrian route under this bridge so take the left-hand walkway and after the underpass you come to a roundabout. Take the first off the roundabout alongside the big semi-circular modern building. Follow this a short way and turn right at the junction onto Boulevard Rene Cassin. You can actually see the overhead train cables on the other side of the road so if all else fails follow these!

Follow the boulevard for a few mins till you come to a big intersection with a flyover. Go under this flyover via the various pedestrian crossings and turn immediately right and up the inclining Boulevard Edouard Grinda and the station is ahead of you on the right in what looks like a Provencal two storey house. Tickets can be bought at the machines or at the ticket office.

You are getting off at Gare de Monaco, right near the centre of town …. well Monte Carlo is so small that anywhere is pretty much near the centre ……. easy!

Arrival at the Gare de Monaco is subterranean so you have to take the lift/escalator to get to the exit. Our hotel was a short walk away downhill. Remember that being a city on a coastal slope invariably means that you will find yourself walking up or downhill and occasionally using steps between streets. There are even underground walkways and the train station has a big tunnel system to get you to various areas of the city.

How many Millionaires live in Monaco?

For such a small city/country, it has much to see but its size is something of an anomaly. Although it is the second smallest state in the world it is the most densely populated in the world (read high rise everywhere!) – over 39.000 residents live in a country about 1 square mile in size!

At no point is it wider than 1700 metres and its only border is 5 miles long – with France. In fact the border is invisible as one side of a street is France while the other in Monaco and it isn’t even displayed as such ….. and get this, 30% of its population are officially millionaires !!!

The Princess Grace Rose Garden Monaco

Big walk now, you know I love my walks, right over to The Princess Grace Rose Garden. This long walk takes you along walkways raised above the roads and through pretty gardens and plazas, stopping off at a Starbucks on the way for well a needed coffee break.

The Rose Gardens had just been refurbished and many areas replanted so the sight was underwhelming but must look great when they are in full bloom.

Nearby was a hotel that we had considered staying in, howver in view of the proximity of the noisy heliport I’m glad we chose not to.

Monaco Heliport

Nearby is the heliport and if you wait a few mins you will see helicopters ferrying the rich and famous into Monaco (no slumming it on a train transfer for them!). Heliicopters were landing every 10 minus or so, ofloading passenegers and then flying straight out again.

There is actually a regular helicopter link from Nice airport to this heliport, that gets you here in a few mins – rather than the 30 mins by train, if you prefer it and have the finances!

Port de Fontvieille Monaco

A walk around one of the Marinas shows how big a yacht and motorboat destination Monaco is, with many people actually living on their yachts here. The apartments were fairly new build and somewhat monotonous in their planned construction but every one selling for at least £1 million, just for a 1 bedroom apartment.

Surprisingly the area is very public despite some well-known celebrities living in these apartments. There is also a scattering of up-market bars and restaurants.

These shots were taken of Port Fontveille from the clifftop overlooking the marina, from the terrace near the Royal Palace.

However, the views from the port area are to the sea and the imposing building that is the Musee Oceanographique up on the opposite cliff-face..

The whole area was eerily quiet and peaceful. Just the clanging of metal cables on masts broke the silence …. and no sign of any of those celebrities that reside here!

Returning back through the Jardin de L’Unesco there are views over the bay and beyond and up the escarpment to the Royal Palace.

Jardins de l’ Unesco

The small, well-kept park is full of greenery, with typical Mediterranean species such as olive and cypress trees. The raised beds also accomate more exotic shrubs and trees There are several fountains and modern sculptures sculptures, a children’s playground and a spectacular viewpoint.

This garden may not be on everyone’s visit list but I found the colourful floor tiles, the well kept lawns and bushes such a delight that we rested here a while and took in the peacefulness of the zone.

Royal Palace area of Monaco.

Cross the road and follow the wide and very long sloping walkway up through the fortified walls of the castle. Then go through its protected gateway, to emerge (somewhat out of breath at the climb) at the big square in front of the Royal Palace. If you plan it right you will see the changing of the guard ceremony.

This is the official residence of the Prince of Monaco and the views are across the wide, semi-circular frontal plaza.

Even the buildings that flank the Palace are classical in design and do not detract from the importance of this plaza area.

Wander hilltop old Monaco

Wander the old streets and you will come across the Palace of Justice, the Cathedral, restored old buildings housing govt offices, private schools. There are also up-market restaurants, private villas, artisan shops and wonderfully restored grand edifices with terracotta tiled rooves and painted walls.

The views from the walls of the hilltop promontory that juts out between two marinas must be the best in Monaco. Look out to sea, look inwards to the Palace and city, then look upwards to the mountains behind in France and understand the sheer slope that Monaco sits on going down into the sea.

Monaco Cathedral

Monaco’s Cathedral was consecrated in 1911. It was built of the site of a former church dating from 1252 called St Nicolas. Many locals even refer to the Cathedral as St Nicolas’s even though its officail title is Cathedra of Our Lady Immaculate.

It is somewhat sombre inside and plain, needing illumination to see its full glory.

Many of the present ruling Grimaldi family are buried here and of course the most famous ones are also here from the recent past.

Here are the Tombs of perhaps its two most famous persons – Prince Rainier and his wife, Pricess Grace Kelly who died before him in a car crash.

They are both entonbed in a section of the  floor, with a viewing walkway around their resting place

Port Hercule Monaco

Don’t forget to go to the side that overlooks the other Marina, the biggest in Monaco- Port Hercule with the mega yachts, cruise ships and if you are wealthy enough, the Monaco Yacht Club, with its exclusive membership.

Here is where the stands for the Monaco Grand Prix, (click here for info), are erected for thousands of spectators and of course free viewing for those who own yachts moored to the quayside that the cars come roaring down.

Remember the Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix?

Talking of the F1 race, we took in the various tunnels and famous corners that are part of the road race. You can see the track markings and tyre skid marks but it defies the imagination how they convert the normal streets to a race track so effectively. We stood at one hairpin bend and saw many Maserati’s, Lamborghinis etc recreate the race feel with fast turns with roaring engines – the neighbours must be fed up with that noise each day!

Japanese Gardens.

On our final day we decided to explore the opposite end of Monaco, so headed for the Japanese Gardens. Eventually, later in the day, our final destination would be the border with France at Larvotto.

The gardens are on the coast promenade just before the Exhibition and Trade Centre and are an oasis of tranquillity amidst the towers of excess. From inside you can see the 30 storey towers outside but the noise is non-existent and peaceful.

A wander around these gardens, their Japanese bridges, tea houses, sculptured grounds and pavilions makes you forget where you are. The fish, the ducks, the mini waterfalls all just remind me of Japan, even down to the little stone figurine shrines ……. Lovely.

Larvotto and Monaco’s border with France

Continuing our walk from the gardens we entered the beach zone In Larvotto. This was yet another change of scenery, into what now felt like an affluent high-rise Med beach town. Wide and deep sandy beaches with sun shades and the necessary backdrop of bars and exclusive restaurants – yes we ate at a great seafood one that was not actually too expensive, with a view over the beach and Med.

Something that I had wanted to do since we arrived, was to see this invisible border between Monaco and France. Stupid and childish as it may seem I wanted to cross the border officially.

It is not marked but I had my GPS on my phone and could locate its exact position on a street. The border came down the side of the nearby house, across the road and crossed the pavement before crossing the stone sea wall and out to sea. I stood with one foot in Monaco and one foot in France with no demarcation line in sight!

The border is there but no guards, markings signs etc. It is gegraphical only, you walk from one side of the road in Monaco to the other side in France and carry on up the hill. No passport or documents needed. Its like the present day old border between the old West and old East Germany. If you weren’y looking for it you would never know you were now in another contry!

There, I did it! ….

Monaco was definitely ticked off the list.

A night at the Monte Carlo Casino, Monaco

That evening we had planned to go into the Casino, (details for entry here). Excited or what! I had visions of being turned away as not being part of that scene or underdressed. However, I had read up and many tourists do it and as long as you are well behaved and smart you can get in. Remember they will ask for your passport however. So we dressed smartly – proper shoes, trousers and jacket but a tie is not required.

We arrived, politely nodded to the doorman, as if we knew the procedure (we didn’t) and he smiled and opened the door – we’re in! That was so easy and they didn’t blink an eyelid. We’ve been accepted!

We walked confidently over to the reception. I had read up what to do, so I didn’t look an idiot tourist (but I was). We asked for two entry tickets, I had read they were 17 Euros – not expensive really for what is the most famous Casino on the world.

The receptionist asked for our passports, which were checked, handed us the tickets and said there is a 10 Euro voucher that can be redeemed against a drink or meal. WOW, not expensive at all. We walked in to the marble and gold anteroom then into the Casino itself. There were huge gaming tables, plush carpets and various small areas to the side. I’m not a gambler, so really didn’t know what they were, but are smaller card playing areas apparently.

A few people were playing at the big card table and some at the roulette table, but it felt really quiet. We were quiet, as if we had just walked into a Cathedral and there was a wedding going on! We whispered to each other. then realised how silly that was and laughed at our state of awe.

We watched from afar – I have no idea how to play cards or roulette but we saw a guy playing, who obviously kept winning. We watched him for 10 mins till he seemed to decide he had won enough and retired with a smug grin.

“Shaken not stirred” – 007.

We walked over to the bar and had to think what drinks we would have …… suddenly I remembered this is the famous 007 Casino so it had to be … vodka martinis. We giggled and ordered them.

I so wanted to say “ shaken not stirred” but felt silly, as no doubt the barman had heard that thousands of times …. but it was on the tip of my tongue and I had to bite it to stop it coming out! The drinks, after our voucher deduction, were about 6 Euros each – pretty much what I would pay for that in a cocktail bar in the UK.

We chatted to ourselves, keeping an eye on what was going on around us. It was still quiet and there were only about 25 people in the main room.

We were quickly getting through our first cocktail and it was making us relax in the opulent surrounding

Anticipation mounted, so we ordered a second cocktail. This time we went for the champagne cocktail – a favurite if mine. It just had to be done. We were here this once and I doubt I’ll get to return, so we decided to make the most of it.

As we sipped the champagne, we tried to remain regal, but were in awe at where we were. The waiter was actually very chatty and friendly and we noticed that everyone was quite professional but friendly and smiley so we felt a bit more at ease.

After the cocktails were finished, I was fascinated at the paintings and wall art and wandered looking at the them and then into an adjacent big room. There was a sense of opulence and grandeur but not over done or ostentatious, it just felt rightly decorated for such a prestigious place.

Fabulous restaurants.

We watched some more games and walked around more till we noticed the two restaurants – didn’t know they had them inside! I casually looked at the menu of the first one and the prices were not exorbitant but the food style was ornate and too gastronomic for my taste so we walked over to the other one. This one had a more usual menu and actually had foods that I liked and we were shocked at how normal the prices were- pretty much the same as our 4 star hotel’s restaurant.

We were getting hungry and had planned to eat back at the hotel but after seeing the menu, we looked at each other.  Both our eyes pretty much said in agreement to each other – “come on, let’s just do it, we will only be here once”. So we entered, were greeted pleasantly, shown to a window table in an elegant Parisian Napoleonic style room and our drinks order was taken … champagne cocktails …. it just had to celebrate.

Food was ordered, the waitress was really chatty and friendly, not at all pompous and we had a great conversation with her. Food was great, service impeccable, atmosphere while quiet was delightful (apparently it is busy late at night our waitress said). The bill was not a shock and for what we received and experienced it was very reasonable, not unlike what I would pay in an up-market London restaurant.

What an experience!

So, so glad we did the works, it was an experience to never forget, made better by the lovely and charming attendants and a story to tell friends at home …. “We went to The Casino at Monte Carlo, had champagne cocktails, dined and loved it” we can boast. I just need to learn how to play whatever card game they were playing or how roulette works for my next visit.

If you are there just do the visit, dress well, take your passport and live the dream that 007 stood just where you are standing now!!!

March 2017.