Qatar – Doha

Doha, Qatar

This city hosts one of the prettiest sea front promenades in the world, with the architecturally stunning Islamic Museum and old Gold Souk at one end and the mega modern skyscraper filled Business District at the other. It is a long but gratifying walk between the two, watching the fishing boats sail out and boat trips around the bay coming back. The city has a Venice inspired Mall, complete with canals and gondoliers. The Souk has camel and horse pens belonging to the Emir and annually in April hosts a fabulous outdoor international food festival complete with bands, amusements and a fantastic fireworks display ….. put April in the diary to attend and enjoy this city for the 4 day festival alone.

I Visited Doha, Qatar as part of my 4 country, 5 city tour of the Southern Gulf area, specifically to Muscat in Oman (click here),  Dubai in U.A.E (click here),  Abu Dhabi in U.A.E (click here),  and Manama in Bahrain (click here).

Doha, Qatar.

Before I went to Doha, I really knew nothing about this city in the small state of Qatar. I knew it had some big neighbours i.e. Saudi Arabia and the UAE with their fame for tall structures, powerful economies, big Mosques and vast wealth.

This is probably why Qatar gets overshadowed and lost in the middle of overwhelming entities nearby but I was interested none the less in how this small state survived.

The only thing I had heard about it was that it was indeed a wealthy country, governed by an emir, and had a world renown Museum of Islamic Art established here.

That was defo on my list of places to see – but what else was here to fill my 3 days in the city. I went onto review sites and “what to see” blogs and discovered so much more – in fact I did not get to see everything possible but feel I achieved a good insight into the city and seen events that are not usually on my itinerary (more on that later).

Where to stay in Doha, Qatar.

Three districts come to mind and depending on what you are wanting to do/visit could influence where you want to locate yourself.

For the Museum of Islamic Art, Pearl Monument, Souk Waqif and the newly opened desert rose crystal shaped National Museum of Qatar then look for hotels in the Al souk, Al Hitmi, southern part of central Doha.

If you want the National Theatre, Al Bidda Park and Gardens with the central Corniche area look up Al Bidda and Al Rumaila area.

Wanting the skyscrapers and business area then look around West Bay, the Diplomatic Area and DECC.

If you really want to stay out of town then the Pearl Qatar, Katara and West Bay is your option but here are the exclusive apartments, villas and hotels with prices accordingly matched.

I say again that Doha is not huge so wherever you stay taxis are plentiful on the street and from your hotel and are cheap.

Where I stayed in Doha, Qatar

I had stayed in fabulous hotels during the month in Muscat, Oman and Manama, Bahrain on this Gulf States tour and was hoping the same luck would continue in Doha.

Having given all the above advice, I actually went against my own suggestions and stayed a bit out of town – but for a very good reason. My hotel, The Warwick Doha, ( click here for hotel website), had received great reviews, was 5 stars but was doing a fabulous offer that made it cheaper than many 3-star central ones.

Even factoring in a return taxi each day, it still made it hugely cheaper than a central hotel.

In fact, one day I did walk into central Doha  just to see how long it took and it was about 45 mins along a nice safe, clear route with an insight into the shops and life on the way. I did catch a taxi back (takes about 7 mins from The Corniche) after sightseeing however as I was too tired to walk back!

If you follow my blogs, I love walking and seeing stuff on the way, it’s an adventure in itself, so I understand if you are not up for a 45 mins hike.

Warwick Hotel Doha

The hotel was fabulous, 5 stars for a 3-star price and nothing was skimped or cut back for the price. It is a modern hotel with a classically styled apartment build look but inside is quite majestic with marble, wood panelling, chandeliers and the most helpful and friendly of staff.

Just around the corner was the Wyndham Hotel, Doha and a few other high class hotels so there were plenty of places to eat and drink also out of the hotel.

The Hotel has 2 restaurants and the Italian one was good, if a bit quiet.

The entrance atrium has high ceilings, deep armchairs and sofas, panelling and decoration that gave it an air of affluence and tradition. It contained a marvellous but small café off to the side away from the front area for quietness and privacy.

The room was sumptuous with one of the comfiest beds ever, gold wall lights, panelling, velvets and soft lighting gave it a classic feel, all meticulously maintained. Despite that not being my usual first choice for style I actually liked it a lot and loved coming back to my relaxing room.

One of the best features was the roof top area.

A big pool with a covered area containing huge loungers, a restaurant tabled area, a bar and even a big jacuzzi. The terrace overlooked the area with the city centre on the horizon and at night the pool and bar area were lit up in multi-colour lights and was serving a fabulous buffet evening selection of food.

I spent most nights here looking out to the city and enjoying the relaxation sipping my drinks in the warm night air.

Doha city transport.

Having said that the city is not huge, taxis are plentiful and cheap and there is now the beginnings of the Metro system that was being finished on my visit and only opened recently. The Doha Metro system will be extensive (300km and 100 stations eventually) when finished.

If you are reading this check out the maps as it is expanding by the month and so keep yourself up to date on transportation.

There are feeder buses that connect with the Metro stations so effectively the city is so much better connected than before and without the need for air-polluting taxis.

Here is a good info site, (click here), but be warned as the lines are not all finished yet despite the maps. It’s good site to keep yourself informed.

Museum of Islamic Art, Doha.

So, first day here and the first place I wanted to visit was the Museum of Islamic Art, (click here for museum website). The National Museum of Qatar was a few months away from opening but I did see the impressive style is was built in from the outside.

I had no idea exactly what I would be seeing here and, unusual for me, had done little homework on looking it up so put it down as an adventure and I would gain from the experience of a bad/good choice of venue. I am very happy to say it was a hugely impressive visit.

The building, the grounds and its setting on a promontory next to the arc of The Corniche, with a view across the bay to the skyscrapers, contested with its contents for admiration. I totally get why the reviews were so good now.

Inside the entrance atrium has marvellous curved stairways that reminded me of the shape of the Pearl Monument nearby.

The views from the floors down to the café area and through the grill styled windows across to the other side of the bay were outstanding. In the café you could sit beside a modern interpretation of a geometric black stone fountain and look out at this panoramic view. You can watch the boats chug along out to sea and glance over at the water skiers and speedboats showing off nearby.

I need at least one coffee pit stop per day and this was to be my first as the setting was captivating. Marble floors, white leather sofas, 4 storey picture windows and the calm and serenity of the areas reminded me I was in an important building.

The artefacts were surprising as I was expecting …. Well …. I was not sure what to expect as the reviews all just kept mentioning beautiful displays. So, to get it straight the museum holds ancient pieces to do with Islamic history and art.

There are decorative ornaments, ancient vases, 14th century swords and daggers, wall art of the 16th century, intricate coloured tiled display, doorways and carved doors, small tombs and religious items from centuries past.

It’s an eclectic mix but well put together in deliberately dimmed rooms. The photos here do not do it justice so get there yourself to see the treasures it holds.

Do walk outside the building through, the large glass doors to the side to the “library” area.

Here there is an exquisite mini plaza, modern water feature, and an arched open-air view across the bay and on the other side back to the park and waterway leading up to the entrance of the Museum.

The National Museum of Qatar, (click here for website), is nearby here, a short wlk or a quick taxi ride away. It was in the final stages of preparing to open, having just been built. It was a few months away from launching but I did see the impressive style is was built in from the outside.

I would encourage you to visit as it has been receiving rave reviews but unfortunately, I was too early to see the opening – maybe I’ll report on it on my next visit to Doha.

Souk Waqif.

Also nearby is Souk Waqif and this is worth a meander. I couldn’t make up my mind if it looked too much like a modern make-over or if the buildings are actually old and maybe just some are restored really well.

The streets show what the old Souk was like in Old Doha, but with clear more modern additions in an older style, a bit like the Al Fahidi District in Dubai (click here for details on this). It has stalls with pedestrianised wide streets selling everything from spices, clothing, homewares, sweet shops and then a section full of restaurants, and cafes selling food, bong pipes and drinks in open air settings for people watching.

There is a small, clearly older covered street here with internal shops and these sold tourist gifts, artisan leather work, rugs and even a store with masses of firearms on sale!. The buildings are the cream stone coloured mud/stucco style with upper floors and it was a welcome relieve to be among the shade after walking through the big open, rather barren plaza in front of it.

The nearby 1920s Al Koot Fort looks impressive looking over the square (it’s now a museum) but it affords a nice backdrop at night, when it is lit up decoratively, for the large central open square in the heart of the Souk area. Small squares with a mini mosque, trees giving shade to open air cafes and general open-air seating for relaxing with a coffee and hookah (bong) pipes are seen everywhere.

To one side is the Gold Souk and anyone truly interested in buying real gold is encouraged to shop here. Not for me however, as bling and gold accessories is not my thing but it looked well set up if it is your bag.

Walk through all areas and you will see a multitude of stores but I took a route towards the Falcon Souk area where there were stores and places selling all manner of hunting equipment, some primarily for falcons (a prized sport here). There were places to buy falcon hoods and jesses, spearfishing stores, and general hunting. A strange site for me as I am unaccustomed to this but still interesting.

This area leads out onto the horse corrals and the camel pens. Yes, there are actual horses and camels kept here in huge pens and you can even approach them for photos although none seem to approach people and they keep their distance. If you want to buy a camel here is the place but I also heard that they all belong to the Emir of Qatar, so maybe not.

Waqif Park, Doha.

From here it is a short walk across the road to the Waqif park, holding green lush gardens, despite the hot sun. Here is a small amphitheatre, fountain and views across the bay to the skyscraper skyline, to the camel pens and buildings of the Souk Waqif itself and across to the famous Clocktower, Al shaykh mosque, and the Emir admin buildings. Surreal with the wide lanes of traffic whizzing by on either side.

The Pearl Monument, Doha.

The Corniche itself just in front is accessed by underpasses, scrupulously clean and maintained, as getting across the multi lane highway would be impossible on foot. You enter out into Corniche park area and walkway itself and if you take the right underpass, you see the Pearl Monument ahead.

This was one of the original monuments of Doha established here many years ago near the bay as a nod to Doha’s and Qatar’s past history. Before Qatar found oil and gas, pearl fishing was one of its main industries. Set in front of the Dhow boat harbour from where the pearls were landed it is often full of tourists trying to get the eponymous selfies, but luckily quiet on my passing by.

The Dhow Harbour.

Onto the Dhow harbour, which is still a working harbour set on the Corniche. Boats ply in and out, are repaired here, docked here and from where many sea cruises and bay trips originate. Many were undergoing repairs and refurbishments clearly but you are free to wander anywhere and see these magnificent wooden structures tethered up.

The Corniche, Doha.

A walk along the Corniche was a must for me, you all know I love my walking! It’s a very long arched 5 km bay walkway from one end to the other. I did it in about 1.5 hours, but had several stops on the way for photo opportunities and coffee pit stops. It has relatively little shade so do use sun protection cream and keep yourself hydrated on hot days.

It was a great walk as the sea breeze is cooling, the views across the bay to the skyscraper headland ahead beautiful and views of the various lit up tourist boats (a bit chintzy maybe) enchanting. People were jet skiing, speedboating and every now and again a Dhow with onboard restaurant plying sightseers back and forth came into view.

I was politely called out to several times by boat owners about to leave on a Doha bay trip to see if I wanted to join in. Tempting as it was, my intention was to walk from one end to the other not sail it.

Be aware that crossing the main road running parallel to the Corniche is virtually impossible, although I did see a few people doing it, due to the heavy flow. There are crossing points but they are few and far between so plan you walk well if you do need to get back by crossing this road.

The massive Al Bidda park, with lots of kid’s playgrounds, cafés, meeting areas and grassed areas to sit out in are plentiful, so don’t rush the walk but enjoy the amenities on the way.

West Bay business district skyscrapers.

I eventually arrived at the Business District and what an arrival it was. At the start of my walk, the buildings I was half circling towards were normal skyscrapers but as evening was falling, I noticed the skyscrapers were being lit up and the designs were amazing. They formed an artistic skyscape in themselves. Purple block of colours that turned to pinks to reds and alternated every minute or so.

The Burj Doha building looked like a huge cucumber shape rising into the sky and had a mass pattern of mainly yellow lights illuminating it. Others had pinpoint lights alternating in colour and others with single block of colour in artistic form. It is clearly done as something different and an attraction for the city by the Doha urban planners.

This was an unexpected delight so if you get the chance go to this area in the eve as darkness falls, do plan it in, as it was a highlight of Doha for me.

Qatar International Food Festival.

As I approached the area, I could see masses of people heading towards the park and it intrigued me what this was all about. I knew it would not be a demonstration or political rally, so what was it. As I neared, I saw it was being held in a big park opposite the Sheraton Grand Doha Resort Hotel and that there were lots of small marquee tents and people sitting on the long hill there.

I could here some German oompah band music so I was even more intrigued. Walking into the area and saw food stalls galore, seating areas, masses of families with kids, a small music band area and suddenly the smells of different foods wafted through the air.

I had stumbled upon a free annual event that I knew nothing about and I just happened to be in Doha for its celebration – The Qatar International Food Festival.

So I walked among thousands of people all trying out foods from the hundred of marquees and side tents displaying and advertising so many different foods. Many hotels were advertising their foods from their kitchens and many small restaurants were selling their wares. I actually found my Hotel had a tent there but I preferred the food from the tent next door – sorry Hotel Warwick.

It was a great atmosphere and then I heard a rock band start up in the large music area and the Westerners rocking along to classic rock n roll tunes. Noticed the locals didn’t seem to like that music though as they vacated the area to the swaying Westerners.

I walked the tents trying yet more food, much of which I had never heard of but saw a stall selling long sticks of something that looked like spiralled potatoes. It had a long queue so I thought it must be good but the queue was fast moving. I tried …. I don’t know what …… but it was like fried yams spiralled along a stick and it was from a stall with a Caribbean sounding name – delicious though.

Nearby, kids were squealing in delight as they ran in and out of the high jets of water in a play fountain with coloured lights and even the adults were joining in and getting soaked. Many were resting on the long sloping area where I again heard the German oompah band that had hundreds watching and taking photos – the last thing I expected to hear in Doha!

There were stalls selling freshly squeezed juices, bags of something that looked like popcorn, plates of cooked food, Mexican, Indian, Javanese, Chinese, Italian, Brazilian, Arab, Japanese and of course American styled foods. Everything! I filled up and actually never got to eat back at the hotel afterwards as I was stuffed.

It was a fantastic celebration of music, food, warm night air, drinks, families, fun and a backdrop of the nearby illuminated decorative skyscrapers and overlooking the bay. After about 2 hours, fireworks suddenly lit up the sky nearby. They crescendoed into bigger and bigger displays culminating in a huge explosion of light that filled the entire sky and caused a massive echo off the nearby buildings.

This was the sign for the gradual closing of the event for the night A fabulous ending to the night.

What an unexpected find. From here I caught a taxi back to the hotel and went straight to bed, Exhausted but mega happy on my first day here.

Next day I wanted to see something that I had read about but would not usually be on my list of must sees in itself. It was a shopping mall. Again, not somewhere I would head to specifically but this one was different.

Villaggio Shopping Mall.

It boasts a mall that has enclosed ceilings but lit up with moving clouds and a changing blue sky to make it look like it is open air and facing the sky. Intriguing I thought, just want to see how they do that and if it actually looks real or fake. There is one the same in Las Vegas and I wanted to get an angle on this one, (click here for Villaggio website). Well, yes it looks real – I have no idea how they do it but the edges gave it away as being fake because the blue sky did not totally cover the edges and a few times some bright lights overlapped it and cut off the sky which would not usually happen. I also heard that it had a Venice style to its shops and many are along an open canal network with paying trips on gondoliers available.

Yep, there they were and yes it did have a Venice feel to it, but I had no real point of reference. I had not been to Venice yet and I was booked on a trip there in 2 weeks’ time so that would be the defining moment of truth.

Now in retrospect I would say that the canal was a fun feature but Venice canals are much less maintained, smellier, and with dirtier water – none of which I suppose they wanted to incorporate here but as a fun feature it kinda works. Queues were long for the canal trips however and the views are just of the shops so not that interesting!

Top-end stores were here but there was a also a perfume section, a restaurant area, an exclusive shop area e.g. Bulgari. Tiffany, Louis Vuitton section that was less shopped by the masses. Most visitors seemed to be the local Indian/Pakistani/Sri Lankan/Pilipino guest workers and some ex-pats and tourists with only the occasional traditionally dressed Arab/Qatari shopper.

I liked the feel of the mall, even had a Pizza at Pizza Express which is actually one of my favourite UK restaurants but the crowds could be overwhelming at times. It also has a huge ice rink, a multi-cinema and a kiddies adventure land area .

The outside sported The Torch Khalifa Tower – another modern cylindrical tower next to the modern arched styled 40,000-seat open-air Khalifa Arena, built in 1976 and host to iconic international sporting events.

Outside was a huge green park with gardens, palms, jogging tracks, cafes and a big lake so it was very family orientated, no doubt to help give some variety to the families shopping to their heart’s content.

Did I enjoy Doha. A resounding yes as Iliked the feel of a walkable and picturesque city in its older part of the Souk, harbour, Corniche and Museum of Islamic Art. I also loved the creativity of the different shaped skyscrapers and the clean and well maintained feel to all areas.

I enjoyed the less touristy feel compared to Dubai and the family feel of the city. My wish would have been to have had more time to have visited the Grand State Mosque, The Fort, the Katara Cultural Village and gone up into the ultra-modern and exclusive area of the Pearl Qatar (just to be nosey and see the opulence and wealth of this residential area).

Now that the Metro system has opened and the National Museum has flung its doors open there will be more to see on my next visit … which I would very much like to be sooner rather than later.

April 2017.