Andorra La Vella, Andorra
I knew very little about this city before I visited it, so discovering this affluent, pristine city was eye opening. I thought it would be an olde worlde, mountain tax haven for the rich with few amenities except the local ski resorts. Boy was I wrong! It has one of the biggest public Spas in Europe, has street art to rival many museums, has the most well maintained public parks, streets etc that I’ve ever seen and the cutest little Perfume Museum that I never thought would interest me but I adored it !. Views of the mountains on all sides from any street – they must be a fabulous sight when snow capped in Winter – and a quaint Old Town area to rival many small cities. It’s true it’s clearly a wealthy city but has charm in abundance.
My trip to Andorra La Vella.
To me, Andorra has always been synonymous with Skiing, snow, mountains, Companies registering here to escape tax charges, mountain chalets and affluent living. So I decided to see for myself what this little country with a big name was all about. I decided to go in Summer, partially due to the fact that I didn’t want to wait until Winter to see it as I envisioned, partially because I cant ski anyhow and partially because I knew getting to and from it would be less cumbersome in Summer.
Remember that being a mountainous country Andorra doesn’t have its own airport and you have to fly into Barcelona, Girona or Toulouse and bus it from there. I was expecting quant old villages and a capital with old stone and wood buildings and a very Swiss- looking/affluent/expensive feel to it. Some of this is true but some very much not.
How to get to Andorra La Vella from Barcelona Airport
So I flew into Barcelona airport and had already booked my onward trip to Andorra La Vella, the capital with Andbus, www.andorrabybus.com – a minibus service that runs from the airport to the capital. This is a great service as it stops at both terminals (at T1 it is from platforms 7-12 in the bus departures area), which meant I literally got through customs went down the escalator to ground floor bus terminal and I was ready to board.
My plane got in early and I had given myself plenty of time to catch the bus 2 hours later (there are about 6 -7 services per day in peak season less in Summer) but it meant that when I got to the bus stop the earlier bus was there ready to go. So, I approached the driver, explained that I was on the later service but could I swop into the next one waiting and he said ” sure no problem” . He took my ticket, checked some details on his phone app for Andbus, converted my time to the one waiting and said “all done” and I was on board ..yyyaaaayyy !
Mountains and lakes on the way !
The journey up to Andorra La Vella takes about 3 hrs 15 mins and is by super modern comfortable minibus, with plenty of room. We whisked out of the airport and straight on the motorway and started our journey into the mountains. There were no stops on the way but the bus website allows you to put in the name of the most popular hotels in La Vella and it will assign you to the nearest bus stop to that hotel. Luckily for me my stop was across the road in front of the hotel and it is where I got picked up from too.
There is a actual official border between Andorra and Spain/France and passports are checked on each side so remember to have your passport ready.
The views on the way were glorious and a lovely way to be introduced to the Pyrenees. Seeing a few big lakes, cute towns and impressive mountain ranges on the way was a fabulous introduction to my arrival in Andorra.
Where I stayed in Andorra La Vella
The hotel I stayed in was the Hotel-Aparthotel Cosmos Escaldes which was a great choice. At first I was concerned that I had chosen the cheaper option as the hotel is further out of the old city centre but realised on arrival that the Andorra La Vella is actually very walkable. I walked from the hotel to the centre easily in 20 mins or so (and further, on my hikes up the mountain sides). So where you stay doesn’t really matter unless you have mobility issues (there are no big hills in the city unlike many mountainous cities I know of).
This part of Andorra La Vella has the Museo Carmen Thyssen, the famous Caldea Spa, the Centre d’arts d’Escaldes Engordany, the Sant Pere Martir Catholic Cathedral and the lovely shopping/bar/restaurant street of Av Charlmeny. The other end of town has the old centre, churches, Parliament and squares so either way you have to go to the other part whichever one you stay in, if you want to see all of Andorra La Vella.
Museo Carmen Thyssen
I wanted to go the famous Museo Carmen Thyssen (site info here) but when I arrived it was shut and like many other tourists with me I was confused as I tried to work out why we were disappointed. I checked the website and no info as to why- it did not warn of closed dates. Then I spoke to the Tourist Office across the street from it and they said that it closes for a few weeks between each major presentation of art to set it up and there is no access. There is an interesting street artwork in front of the museum and the blocks of flats around it have a painted in hexagonal/geometric designs on the walls to give the area an arty feel.
The Museum itself looks like a big warehouse with an alpine style roof.
Escaldes Engordany Art Centre.
So I went on to the Centre d’arts d’Escaldes Engordany, (site info here), literally across the road and visited the fabulous Chagall exhibition of 105 engraved prints but there was no photography allowed so can’t show how impressive it was. This Arts Centre also has a small permanent collection – some of which I show here and also changing exhibitions, so check ahead if there is something coming up that you would like to see.
Sant Pere Martir Cathedral
Next door was the Sant Pere Martir Catholic Cathedral with a very Italianate cream brick bell tower. The interior was fairly plain but as there was a service going on inside I kept to the side and didn’t take photos but its worth a visit if you are at the nearby Museums.
A photo of this Cathedral with its bell tower against the rising mountains behind it makes for an impressive photo.
As I was in the area and now had time to kill due to the Museum closure I decided to take a hike up the paths nearby into the hills and mountainside. There are several signposted walks (parts can be a bit steep) but it takes you up cobbled paths to views overlooking the city with pretty bridges and views into gardens of nearby old houses. I took the one called Cami de les Molleres.
Pont Tosca
It starts at the Pont Tosca (an old bridge that you can see just as Av Chalemany changes name to Av del Pont de la Tosca) on the right hand side as you are walking out of town.
The walks go further up if you are more adventurous but I had seen enough and was getting tired in the warmth. I wandered to the top which ends at a main road and you can continue further if you want.
I turned and headed down this road , down through the nearby modern blocks of apartments, stopping to take some great pics from a car park on the way of the city from above.
I crossed down onto the main road and headed towards town and then crossed the road and picked up the next downwards walkway called Cami de la Cananleta – another cute cobbled walkway that took me to the Valira river with its rapids and concrete sides where you can get fantastic shots of the racing river and the nearby old houses and another modern museum.
Caldea Spa
Next day I decided to explore the streets around the hotel and see the famous Caldea Spa, (click here for info). This is the biggest Spa in Europe, fed from the spring waters of the nearby fast flowing mountain stream. It is also the tallest building in Andorra at 18 storeys. It dwarfs the nearby area due to its mega size for such a small capital city and its glass tower can be seen from many parts of the city. There is a modern square in front and several arty statues and fountains that blend in well with the modern architecture of the Spa.
At £64 for entry it felt expensive but everyone tells me it is an experience to behold inside …..well…….maybe tomorrow if I’ve done all my sight seeing !
Andorra Parliament Building.
I had heard of the famous “Parliament of Andorra” and just had to visit it for myself It is an amazing set up for a Parliament. The original building of 1580 (first pic) is set in a square on the side of the valley in Old Town and was in use until 2011.
Then the new building opened next to it but it extends underground and below it down the valley, so to see the new building completely you have to go down the hill and look back up to the top.
You have to imagine it from the pics but the Old Parliament is literally on the roof and set back from the new ultra modern one.
You can look down from the square (roof of new building) to see 7 yellow kneeling statues on poles in the square, they represent the 7 parishes of Andorra and are in the grounds of the new Parliament below.
Old Town Quarter, Andorra La Vella
The old quarter in Andorra La Vella is actually quiet small but totally pedestrianised so walking about is really easy without worrying about traffic. At each turn there are views of the enormous semi-cliff sides as it is in a huge valley. Thankfully the valley is too steep to build up to so there are not many hills/steps to climb.
Church of Saint Stephen
The area has many restaurants and small bars and has the Church of Saint Steven (Sant Esteve) and feels more like a large village than a capital city. The church looks more quaint outside than inside with a lovely portico and different architectural styles. Inside it has colourful but small stained glass slotted windows and has a more modern style.
After exploring the Old Town I went back down the hill past the new Parliament Buiding and took a walkway along the river nearby. It ends further up at the modern cable stayed bridged of the Pont de Paris. From here a walk into the Malls or shopping streets is one direction or carry on along the river to the Caldea Spa again, passing by a bridge that looks like the boney carcass of a whale shaped into a pedestrian bridge over the river leading into the park.
Street Art in Andorra La Vella
Funky street art is everywhere ! This is just a sample of the huge number of statues, artwork, bridges, waterfalls etc that dot the city. It is a very, very affluent city (obviously as its a tax free haven for the rich !) and they spend money on beautifying the city with art work. I have never seen so many street cleaners n the streets are impeccably maintained, clean, litter free and I even saw men going along with a big machine that scrubs the pavements clean with water n bubbles …. amazing.
The Perfume Museum
This is a very small Museum but I found it fascinating. It is actually inside the Julia dept store on Av Charlemany so is a strange place to find it. It came as included in the tourist card I bought and as I was passing by the main shopping avenue it seemed a waste not to pop in. The receptionist gives you an audio transmitter and I did find it quite exhaustive and very full in its explanations so skipped the ones I wasn’t that interested in. It has bottles from ancient Egypt and medieval England and then goes into various perfumes and famous brands and you can sense the evolution up to the present day.
I did find the row upon row of bottles a little plain but if you have time to read the description beside the more famous exhibits it is actually very informative. There is a little display of the more common fragrances, herbs etc used in perfume making and all in all I found it worth the visit.
All in all a great little place to visit, to get the perspective on a small, independent mountain nation that is incredibly affluent, picturesque and remarkably very affordable despite its reputation.
This is what it looks and feels like in the height of Summer ……… wonder what its like at the height of winter, for what it is more renown for – skiing and after-piste fun ….. now there’s a really good reason to come back to this nation, watch this space !
Sept, 2018.
Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.
Spain – Benidorm
Benidorm, Spain The cheap package holiday destination for many Brits who want a booze, beach and sun vacation in cheap hotels on [...]
Monaco – Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo, Monaco The yachts, the mega cars, the Palaces, the Marina, the 5 star hotels, the best restaurants, the events where [...]
Monaco – How to get to Monaco from Nice Airport
How to get to Monaco from Nice Airport. There are local transfer buses, direct express buses, trains, taxis and helicopters and more. [...]
What a great description of Andorra, can’t wait to go back 🙂
Thanks for the kind comments. It was certainly very different to what I was expecting. Somehow I thought more alpine/chalets/olde worlde, which it has a little of so the modern buildings caught me off guard. Maybe I should go back in Winter to get a different perspective ….. that’s an idea for a new post maybe?!
Hoping to visit Barcelona this year at some point and adding this place to my list, looks like a lovely place to visit! Thanks for all the detailed guides!
To add in Andorra to a barcelona trip is really easy – my post explains how to catch a coach direct from the ariport or even the city centre. It’s worth the effirt to stay for two days
This is such a beautiful area! Love the Mountain View’s, cobble stones, little streams and cute homes. This seems like the ideal place to just relax and wander around in.
It was so different to what I was expecting. It’s small enough to walk the entire city and even up the slopes to get great views down to the city below.
When I was in Barcelona I visited a small mountain village at the base of the Pyrenees called Querables and Andorra very much brought some memories back. The scenery is incredible and the natural stone buildings. Andorra is much larger and much more things to do.
I don’t know Querables but if it is like most Pyrenean villages it is very picturesque. I’ve only just heard that Andorra is the highest capital in Europe – never knew that when I posted the article.
What a great looking place. It reminds me a bit of Tallinn, lots of old historic areas and pretty views but then you walk a little further and some of the more modern buildings take over. The views on the way looked spectacular. This is a place I hadn’t thought of visiting but I might now
Andorra was my penultimate country to visit to say I had seen every country in Europeand it was so different. I’m not so used to teh high mountain scenery so that was captivationg. I’d love to back in the Winter to experience deep snow where I saw green fields and warm sunshine
I didn’t know much about Andorra before reading this. It looks like a charming place to visit – although the Caldea Spa looked quite anachronistic compared with the lovely stone buildings! (The spa also seemed to be very expensive!) Loved the street art, particularly the Dali-esque soft watch. Shame about the Museo Carmen Thyssen – it looked interesting. The setting of Andorra La Vella amidst the backdrop of the mountains looked wonderful. Thanks for a great intro to this little country.
Yes, I agree, the Spa was slightly out of character in the town but at least it was not in the centre to spoil everything. I seem to have a habit of booking trips when at least one of the sites I want to visit in a place in closed! ….. maybe next time.
What a cute city! I love all the photos of the city with the mountains looming behind the buildings or else the river raging through it. I particularly enjoyed the Pont Tosca – how picturesque! I’d like to visit the perfume museum. I enjoy quirky museums like that that only require as much thinking as you feel like dedicating. We did a wine museum like that in Paris.
Those mountains became a big feature of the city for me. There are not many cities that have these huge walls of rock looming over them. That Perfume Museum was quirky but actually quite interesting. It shows how perfumes developed and the bottle shapes over the years were so interesting.
This is a great introduction to Andorra. I love the mountainous location, it is stunning. I think I would enjoy the perfume museum, even though I’m not a huge fan of perfume. It seems like the kind of surprise and quirkiness that I love in small museums. (reminds me of many of the small Icelandic museums). I will always take advantage of a spa — even if it does creep into the “splurge” portion of my budget.
Lyn | http://www.ramblynjazz.com
Yes, the Spa was shockingly expensive so had to skip it, despite its uniqueness. The perfume museum was so interesting. You see the history, that I never thought exited, behind brands that
I’d like to see Andorra at some point when I’m making efforts to go to Carcassonne. It is a place you rarely hear others talking about and the 3h trip from Barcelona sound doable. I don’t know much Andorra and can’t tell which culture may have influenced it more. From your pictures I’d guess French as the many stone build houses and towers point to that.
Carolin | Solo Travel Story
Would be great to include Andorra in your Carcassonne trip. You get to see another place that if quite different.
I have often feel that a lot of small towns are underappreciated. These quaint smaller towns are great for slow travel and or day trips. As you don’t have to really rush to see all things and with exceptionally less travelers to compete with. Your post are bringing light to some of the hidden gems of the Pyrenees #flyingbaguette
Jan – https://flyingbaguette.com/
I agree. I often prefer the smaller, quaint towns over the huge ones. They have character and ambience that many large capitals do not have.
I’m not sure what I was expecting when someone mentions Andorra – but it wasn’t this. The mountains make sure an idyllic background to the city. I am impressed by the bridge and the street art. It seems like you can find the art pretty much anywhere!
I too was unsure what to expect and was expecting something more like a quaint Alpine style town. It does have that in the Old Town area but it is also a lot more modern than I was expecting.
When I think of Andorra, sky resorts and snowy winters inevitably spring to mind. I was only passing through Andorra and had no idea that it would have so much to explore and so many activities to do, let alone that it would have the largest spa in Europe!
The whole area of the old town looks very picturesque and pleasant for a stroll and for enjoying the public space in peace.
I thought along the same lines as you but really did not know what to expect. That spa certainly did impress me (from the outside), but unfortunately it was way above my budget to use.