Azerbaijan – Baku

Baku, Azerbaijan

Capital of Azerbaijan, this city oozes wealth from its sometimes quite bling buildings, to the large black limousines in convoy that drive around its streets.

The Old Town area with its fortified walls, towers and ancient buildings is a real calm in the oasis. The old Palace, baths, Maidan Tower, cobblestoned streets and balconied, restored buildings are a real charm to see. Just outside are beautiful parks, carefully maintained and a massive sea front promenade to rival the best in the world. 

Contrasting with this are the sometimes gigantic signature building of glass and steel rising to the skies in full adoration of modern architectural styles and tastes. 

The iconic buildings for the city are now the Flame Towers. An eye-catching trio of buildings designed in glass to replica the appearance of three flames emerging from the ground. At night these display a light spectacle of colours that defy imagination – just go and see them one evening.

The one drawback to the city is the traffic. As Azerbaijan has huge oil fields, petrol is so, so cheap. That encourages travel by car, the fumes are obvious in the air and infrastructure has been developed for road use that makes the car the king.  

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I started my 3 nation tour of the Caucuses in Baku, Azerbaijan before moving on to explore Georgia and Armenia.

Azerbaijan was an incredible adventure and whilst I spent time in the capital, as this post will show I also spent time in other areas of the country. Sheki and the northern mountains was a long day trip – click here for the link. For something so different to anything I had seen before, I also sent a day in the area of the mud volcanoes, Fire Temple and Yanar Dag. Click here to see that post. Finally I flew the short flight to the city and province of Nakhchivan in the Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic. Click here for that post. This is an exclave  separated from the main area of Azerbaijan and wedged between Turkey, Armenia and Iran. Here I used the services of an excellent guide who showed me the delights of the province and who comes very much recommended by me. Click here for his info.

I flew to Baku, Azerbaijan from London and to be honest, this isn’t as easy as you might think.

Since BA stopped flying here direct it means only Azerbaijan Airways have direct flights from the UK. The price was hellishly expensive and I can only think it is this high because the airline has the monopoly on the direct London-Baku flights.

I looked around and found that the budget airlines fly here but with a varying length of stopovers in other European cities (Vienna, Vilnius, Chisinau and Budapest were the obvious and easiest ones).

The price was 30% the price of Azerbaijan Airways and even meant I could pay for a nights stayover in one of those cities, enjoy its sights and continue on the next day and still have money to spare ….. guess which one I did!

I flew via Budapest on an early flight, stayed at a decent hotel at the airport, had a quick 20 mins fast bus ride into the city, a lovely evening meal and breakfast and enjoyed 8 hours reacquainting myself with a city that I had not seen for about 6 years. It was still cheaper with all these expenses than flying direct.

Check out the options for these connecting flights that are so worth looking into.

Where I stayed in Baku

I stayed at the Renaissance Palace Hotel outside the centre area and up on the hill overlooking the city.

I would normally do a full review of this hotel but not long after I visited it stopped taking bookings on the major hotel booking sites, claiming to be full or not taking bookings.

It doesn’t surprise as although the hotel is definitely not 5 stars as it advertises on its street front signage, it a lower class 4 star.

Rooms were dated but spacious, carpets needed cleaning and the bathrooms not particularly clean.

I arrived late at night and tired at the hotel

The receptionist who checked me in gave me a twin single bed room despite me booking a double bed. He did not tell me that until I complained after arriving in the room. I insisted on a double bed, as booked, because I am over 6 feet tall (1.9 metres) and well built. I explained I don’t fit into single beds clearly – my feet hang over the edge and if I turn, I fall out. He said he had no other rooms, even when challenged that I had booked it 2 months ago so they knew in advance and confirmed a double bed not the option I could have taken of a twin single. He refused me an upgrade and said the hotel was full. Appalling service. He insisted I took it and he would sort it out in the morning. I thus spent an uncomfortable night barely sleeping in a bed too small for me.

The next morning, he wasn’t there so I enquired about the promised room change. The female receptionist checked and nothing had been passed to the day staff to change it. I asked if the hotel was busy and she said no they had been quiet all week. She admitted he effectively lied to me and quickly arranged for a room change, would move my clothes etc into it whilst I was out and apologised – just shows what a different person, with a different attitude can do.

Breakfast was good, but only 10 or so people eating in what is a huge hotel (it was so quiet).

Evening food was basic and half the menu not available, I was the only person in the restaurant and had to go find the waiter to serve me as I don’t think they were expecting anyone. Service polite but slow. After two evening meals I ate out as it was not a convivial experience there.

The bar area and restaurant are quiet grand but I noticed were used mainly by Indian families and local workmen (even dressed in work overalls for breakfast. It felt that the hotel had seen better days despite the opulent look.

Don’t use the taxis that wait outside the hotel, they charge 3 times the price than an Uber one which reception can order for you.

The upside is a nice location above the city but you need to walkdown to the sights or catch a taxi. The price was very cheap at £30 a night for an ok 4 star – that’s what made me think the clients coming here are coming for price and the services are thus diminishing as a result.

Air con and wifi were good.

Personally (apart from the price) I wouldn’t recommend it. Stay nearer to the centre for a higher price or one of several nearby hotels that seemed better for a similar price.