Trebinje, Bosnia-Herzegovina
A small town just across the border from its famous nearest city – Dubrovnik in Croatia. Relaxed feel to the town, full of low, charming old buildings, tree covered squares to sit back and watch the world pass by, Church and bell tower up on hill overlooking city with great views to the mountains. A wonderful introduction to this country.
I visited here as part of my 3 week road trip I did to see as parts of Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina by hire car from Podgorica, Montenegro.
This was combined with crossing the border into Croatia and also Bosnia Herzegovina, eventually returning to where it all started.
See below for the other destinations on this trip. Travelling by car between these places was actually one of the best car trips I have done and so easy. Road conditions were good, traffic light but do remember to get the necessary car insurance upgrade from the hire company to take it across the border
Check beforehand if they permit it, tell them and get the stamps etc put on the documents as all border police in the Balkans do check these documents.
Travelling by car to Trebinje from Dubrovnik
After Dubrovnik, (see post here) I planned to visit nearby Bosnia & Herzegovina. The Ivanica border crossing is about 20 mins away and I had heard of several stories of long queues at the crossing so felt unnerved at the journey. As I set off all seemed well, it was quite clearly sign posted and it was a long drive up the mountains with amazing views back to the Adriatic sea behind me.
Unfortunately there was no real safe place to stop to take photos and it was somewhat misty anyhow but I had a real sense of climbing the heights into the mountains. The mountain road was actually quite well made and maintained and was surprisingly quiet. I got to the border in about 25 mins and there was only one car in front of me so it took seconds to cross the border!
Car documents were checked to see that I had the appropriate insurance and permission from the car hire company to go across the border, passport stamped and I was beckoned on with a pleasant “welcome”.
Drove through huge mountains and could still see down to the Adriatic sea but there were again very few places to stop n take pics. I headed for Trebinje on a well made road and kept admiring the big imposing dark coloured mountain ranges that came into view at each turn of the road. I am not a keen mountain road driver but the sights were captivating and so pristine.
It took me about 25 mins to reach my hotel after I had crossed the border into B&H, after taking a few wrong turnings in the town.
What to see in Trebinje
Trebinje is a charming small town steeped in old country buildings, a small old town area, a 16th Century stone bridge and a Serbian Orthodox Monastery church high up on a hill overlooking the city, that was completed in 2000 but is styled to look older. The town was certainly not as affluent as Dubrovnik in Croatia where I had just driven from but the centre has a real olde worlde sleepy mountain charm that I really liked.
Hercegovacka Gracanica
I managed to drive my car to the top of the hillside through small local neighbourhood streets to get to the Serbian Othodox Church, Hercegovačka Gračanica. It was built as a replica of the famous Gračanica Monastery complex in Pristina, Kosovo from the 14th century.
Inside is the tomb of Jovan Dučić (1871-1943), a Bosnian Serbian poet and patriot. Its walls and ceiling have beautiful frescoes, were highly decorated and looked recently finished, although some peeling of the paint and plasterwork was beginning to show.
It was a very misty and showery day so my pics of the views from the hilltop across to the nearby mountains and down into town are a bit blurry from the mist. I was also the only person at the church so had it all to myself. The nearby bell tower was lovely and in Summer there is a large restaurant/bar nearby that overlook the town.
Trebinje has two lovely squares with lots of tree cover and places to eat outside. It was still rainy and misty when I got there., so that scuppered any plans to have a spot of al fresco dining.
What was so captivating was the lack of modern signage above the various bars, restaurants etc. They had avoided over-commercialising the town centre area, Any signage was discreet and in keeping with the age of the buildings. This really lent a great atmospheric feeling towards the heritage buildings.
The pavements had seemingly been newly repaved but had been paved in old beige cream flagstones in keeping with the colour and style of the old buildings.
A small refurbished fountain in one area of one of the squares again kept the historical feel of the centre. It bowled me over as to how such a small and relatively unknown town had kept faith with the heritage of its past.
It has a little old town area with a Mosque (closed when I visited), entered through a tunnel gateway many metres thick and old preserved town walls. Clearly in Summer there would be open air bars here as well but they were closed due to it being off season.
Herzegovina Museum
I had read about the Herzegovina Museum, (see here for opening times etc) and was looking forward to seeing this little gem but when I got there unfortunately it was closed – off season again. The tower attached to it was visible from a long way away and seen throughout the town so if ever I want to return I would have no problem finding it!
Orthodox Cathedral Temple of Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord
The city is big enough to have an Orthodox Cathedral with lovely painted iconography on the walls, in the centre of town, in a small park. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century and has recently been totally cleaned up and restored both inside and out .
Arslanagica Bridge
This is possibly the most famous thing here. However despite its age and historical importance, it is actually very plain and of a simple construction style.. The bridge, built in 1574, used to connect the trade routes of central Bosnia and Herceg Novi, in Montenegro, and other important places in the Ottoman Empire.
Interestingly, the whole bridge was moved in the 1970s to Trebinje from a site several kilometres away due to construction of a hydropower dam, which I drove by on the way back to Montenegro.
This was my sole trip into Bosnia-Herzegovina but what an impression it left on me.
A small and rustic town that clearly has restored and maintained its heritage buildings to a high standard. The quietness (ok, it was off season), gave the town a peaceful atmosphere and the ease of walking around (despite the rain and mist) endeared this charming town to my memory.
Feb 2018.
Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.
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This is really interesting – great to have an insight into one of the smaller towns of Bosnia and Herzegovina! The Hercegovačka Gračanica church looks like a little gem – I really admire Orthodox architecture and the art-work in the interior of the buildings. Thanks for sharing!
Trebinje was certainly an atmospheric and great introduction to what was my first visit to Bosnia-Herzegovina. As you say. the Hercegovačka Gračanica church was defo a little gem and I was so fortunate to have it all to myself to contemplate its beauty (ok, it was off season and rainy so I guess only to be expected !). It has left me with a desire to see more of B-H one day.
Trebinjie sounds exactly what I look for. It checks all the boxes for me: small town, under the radar from mass tourism, close to a major city – Dubrovnik. I love how you described it as relaxing, full of charming old buildings, tree covered squares, and of course, a church with a bell tower to listen to the ding, dang, dong ring out. Bonus would be the mountain views.
It was just as you described. I actually felt that I was the only foreign tourist there, so that was an added bonus to see it all unspoilt.
That overlook of the town is spectacular! I love exploring little towns and seeing what the area has to offer, and this town seems to have a bit of things to do that’s steeped in history. Great post!
Thanks for your comments. I was pleasantly surprised by my choice as I was expected a more mundane and average town and it was the opposite. Just shows that great sites are still to be found.
Trebinjie looks like an amazing place to explore, love the off the beaten path vibes!
Thanks for the comments. It is certainly of the beaten path but so worth a visit.
While not as well known as the capital I sometimes find that these smaller border towns hold a lot more unique history, the unheard of stuff, and ate often quite charming in an understated way. That seems to be the case here with Trebinje
Everything you say here is so true. When you find this in something that was not planned to be that way it is even more thrilling.
We visited Trebinje briefly on our recent trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina and really liked it. Curiously, you captured our hotel – the Platini, located on one of the lovely squares – in one of your photos! We had had a really long drive from Sarajevo, via Tito’s secret nuclear bunker, that day, so didn’t manage to spend as long in this town as we would have liked to. We very much regret that we missed the Hercegovacka Gracanica and, sadly, the Arslanagica Bridge. The Herzegovina museum was open when we visited though, so we were able to look around – there were an interesting permanent collection and an excellent temporary art exhibition. We absolutely agree that Trebinje is a charming town that takes great pride in its heritage.
What a coincidence. I did look at staying at that hotel but it was fully booked at the time. I didn’t get to see the Museum as it was closed and would have loved to see the art exhibition. Pity you didn’t get to the the hilltop church and the bridge as they are both beautiful. Like you, mine was a stopover on the way to somewhere else but I was lucky enough to arrive early and had a full day there to enjoy such a charming town.
Lovely photos of this small town. The gray sky and misty atmosphere actually work to add to the ambience of the old buildings. It’s a shame the museum was closed. Just a reason to go back some day!
Glad you like the atmospherical photos, I wondered if the darkness and mistiness of them would convey the beauty. ideally I would have liked to see the town on a bright sunny day but it was not to be. Another blogger went here and saw the Museum after I did and said it was an interesting one …. I missed out on that!
Such a charming town! You have had an incredible trip!
Glad you liked reading the post. Trebinje is certainly a charming little town, and it surpassed my expectations.
What a great introduction to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Trebinje looks charming — I love that they don’t have garish signs. The church looks magnificent. What a shame to miss out on the Museum but that’s the way of the world when we travel in low season.
Lyn | http://www.ramblynjazz.com
Yes, such a pity the Museum was closed as it was on the list of things I wanted to see here It’s certainly a place I would return to to explore more..
The moody rain and the moody town. It looked like a very quiet from the photos but I’m sure the locals were just taking shelter from the rain. Normally its us travelers who are crazy enough to go out and poke around town come rain or shine. Interesting church and architure. Trenije seems to be a town that deserves a tender gaze and attention #flyingbaguette
Jan – https://flyingbaguette.com/
Trebinje was such an uncommercialised treat for me. I feel I was the only tourist in the whole town and for that reason it felt even more special.
Wow, the architecture is beautiful. I never really thought of that in this part of the world, but the attention to detail is captivating. I actually like that the bridge is plain and simple, i think it adds to the historical charm
The town and area was so non-touristic that it gave it an extra special appeal. This road trip, for me, really showed me a different angle on this part of Europe.
I can imagine Trebinje to be a very charming town and ideal for a stopover. The many historic sites still preserved give it a timeless charm and I liked the central area around the hotel and the fountain, which must be d.elightful to sit in during the warmer seasons and enjoying some al fresco dining/coffee. Bugger that it was a rainy day on your visit, but I have no doubt you’ll revisit Trebinje in the future.
Carolin | Solo Travel Story
Yep, the rainy, musty day did mean the pics were not at their best. I also got wet but it didn’t detract from an lovely time in the town.
Bosnia Herzegovina isn’t a country full of tourists on its own, but these small towns, off the beaten track, are a gem for those who like to explore places full of history and culture, but far from the hustle and bustle of the capital.
Trebinje has a charming and inviting atmosphere, whether for a short stay or as a stopover for other destinations.
I would totally agree and would love to explore more of this fascinating country, so untouched by mass tourism (at the moment!).