Denmark – Copenhagen

Copenhagen, Denmark

What does everyone come to Copenhagen to see? …… the Little Mermaid, of course. However, you could be disappointed at how small it is. Its setting is opposite a huge factory. Then there are the hordes of tourists trying to get a selfie by clambering dangerously onto the rocks to get at it. A city of old, elegant, spire topped churches, modernist Scandinavian architecture and Danish Royal Palaces galore. The bohemian Christiania area is interesting to see, but somewhat unimpressive …..so get yourself along to the Tivoli gardens, especially if you have kids, for an old fashioned amusement park experience.

The residential lined canals and bicycle-laden streets give the city a calm, affluent town feel. Don’t miss the changing of the guard at the Amalienbourg Palace and definitely climb the tallest church spire in the city for a vertigo inducing view over the rooftops!

Where I stayed In Copenhagen.

My trip to Copenhagen was a weekend break with a friend to see the sights and generally get to know the city. We decided to stay at The Hilton at the airport as the rates were much, much cheaper than the city centre. Here we could get a better class of hotel for our money, (and the hotel was stylish and comfy) and there was a direct Metro link to the city centre, only minutes outside the hotel’s entrance.

This was an excellent choice as we could definitely not hear any plane noise due to the excellent soundproofing of the hotel, We never waited more than a few minutes for a Metro to take us into the centre, arriving within 20 mins or so.

Another great reason for this choice of hotel is that we wanted to take a trip across the water to Malmo Sweden (more on that in another blog, click here), Here there is a stop at the airport for Malmo bound trains that was so easy to use.

What to see in Copenhagen.

Its situation means that there is a direct line of view from the Opera through the gardens next to the Palace, straight over the large fountain in the grounds and straight in line with the aperture in the road between the Palace buildings with a view to the famous Frederik’s Kirke. The pics below show the view from the fountain one way across the water to the Opera House and the other way to the Church.

There was not a performance on when we were there, so a visit was not on the cards ….. but one day I would love to return to attend a production as the building looked so impressive.

What was also exciting was that there were several ocean-going, tall, sailing ships moored nearby that reinforced the nautical feel of the harbour/quayside that we were in.

The many coaches that arrive and line the nearby highway tells you on approach that you are near something important. Tourists however were so disrespectful and were risking injury by clambering over the rocks just so that they can be selfishly in a selfie photo of it. I actually saw some tourists clamber up the rock/stand she is on and hang from it to get a photo.

I was hoping they would slip and fall in the water as it was so unnecessary and disrespectful.  Eventually these actions would clearly damage the statue and the surrounding area, but dozens were trying to do it. There was no-one guarding the monument to prevent this abuse, although it clearly happens every day. There were so many tourists that it was actually difficult to get a photo as they would push in front of anyone taking a photo to get closer themselves.

I had to resort to standing back on the raised walkway and using zoom to get a shot.

There were so many tourists that it was actually difficult to get a photo as they would push in front of anyone taking a photo to get closer themselves.

I had to resort to standing back on the raised walkway and using zoom to get a shot.

Now the exciting (or scary for me, as I do not like heights) part was that you get to climb up the spire by going up the 400 steps. However last 150 steps take you around the spire, ON THE OUTSIDE, along a spiral staircase (with a handrail)! There is a charge of around 35 Danish Krona to up and on busy days there can be a queue.

It was to be an adventure but what I didn’t realise was that the staircase is quite narrow and you often have to let people pass you (up or down) which can feel a bit awkward. However the view from the top was amazing and even on a windy day I was glad I had done it.

There was a great view across to the Opera House not far away and it gave a real perspective to the city and how it is definitely not a skyscraper city. To think that a church tower built some 320 years ago is still one of the tallest buildings in Copenhagen, incredible!

Grand rooms and opulent ceilings and furniture definitely gave a hint to its importance.

There is a story about Peter the Great (1672-1725), Tsar of Russia who rode a horse up and down the Round Tower’s spiral ramp in October 1716, why I don’t know, if I find out I’ll re-post the answer on here!

It costs 25 DK to go in and is quite a walk up to the top but at least it is a gentle sloping ramp rather than steep steps.

Great pics were taken from the top observatory.

It also houses the Crown Jewels in an exhibition room. It felt strangely small for a Royal residence – although it was originally designed as just a Summer retreat.

What was also interesting was that it was quite dark.  Much of the decoration was dark wood wall panels, brown painted/embossed ceilings and again more dark wood furniture.

There is a ceremonial changing of the guard at noon each day. A small troop of Lifeguards march a set path through a part of the city to arrive at the Palace and then stand guard.

You can walk virtually up to the door of any Palace but the guards will keep an eye on you – just in case !

The site is full of Disneyland/theme park style rides but much more traditional in build.  Some are many years old and set in lakes or gardens All around are small stalls selling food and trinkets. There are several cafes and lakeside settings of restaurants.

High slides and a roller coaster trundle overhead and it has a refined fun fair feel, with Chinese and Alpine themes in some areas. Again, not my type of things but the kids here were loving it and it was quite busy, so each to their own I guess.

These gardens are well placed if you intend to see a few nearby attractions. The Carlsberg Museum (sculpture and art) is next door and the huge and stately Town Hall is opposite. Copenhagen Central train station also sits next door and the National Museum is just a few minutes along the road.

Copenhagen in a nutshell

So, to sum it all up – Copenhagen is a very walkable city, very low rise but bigger than I imagined. The affluence is visible but I loved the way the people retained the love for older culture and buildings. I particularly loved the big nod to the environment with their bicycle usage.

It’s not a cheap city but not as expensive as its Scandinavian neighbours, eg Stockholm and Oslo. With an easy train ride into Sweden and further onwards to see  Stockholm or Oslo, it’s ideally placed as base for a multi-site trip itinerary.

May 2016.