Estonia -Tallinn

Tallinn, Estonia

Tallinn is a city with a wonderful blend of Modern Scandic, Art Nouveau, brutal Stalinist and Warehouse style buildings. The streets are interspersed with grand, colourful and operatic edifices. They are encompassed by huge, fortified, turreted walls, the likes of which I had never seen before. Walk its streets of gable-roofed buildings and stop off at the famous Town Hall Square for a coffee. Pop into one, of what seems likes dozens, of central picturesque churches, then climb its steeple for the amazing views over Tallinn. Take a walk out of town to Peter the Great’s Summer Palace and original log cabin, (he loved his simple log cabins, did Peter). The modern grey slate and glass designed KUMU Museum nearby will captivate you with its paintings and modern art sculptures.

My tour of the Baltic States

My trip to Tallinn, Estonia was part of my 10 day trip to visit the three capitals of the Baltic States.

I flew into Tallinn, Estonia, for a 3 day stay in the capital of Estonia. Read all about my experiences in this fabulous city in this post.

From here I then took the Lux bus to Riga, Latvia, Click here for my post on my Tallinn to Riga LuxExpress bus experience

Riga, the capital of Latvia was another marvellous stay of three days. Click here for my post on Riga.

From Riga I then travelled onwards, again by Lux bus to Vilnius in Lithuania. Click here for the Lux Express Riga to Vilnius post.

I stayed in Vilnius, the small but enchanting capital of Lithuania for 3 memorable days. Click here for my post on Vilnius.

At the end of this wonderful ten day trip I flew from Vilnius back to the UK.

Tallinn Airport transport 

I usually see if I can get the hotel to arrange a cheap car pick-up when I arrive in a new city. Often I have little concept of navigating around many cities as they are all so diverse. On the ride in I can then get a feel for the size and complexity of the route.

I will then often get the info from the hotel on how to take cheaper public transport back to the airport and where the bus/train/tram leaves from.

Tallinn airport, (click here for official airport website), is actually not far from the city centre. I worked out I could easily walk it on urban streets in about an hour. It is almost set in the suburbs and would not be difficult but the arrival time of my flight meant it could be dark when I arrive and who knows if it was going to rain also.

This time I read up and saw that there is easy and quick public transport from the airport – so I took public transport.

Airport Tram

If you need to get to the city centre from the airport, Tram Number 4 (airport to Topli line) from outside the terminal takes approximately 15-17 minutes. Ticket price is 2 Euros, which you can buy from the driver or buy a QR-ticket on the Internet or at the ticket machine located in the tram waiting hall. So easy, it stops at Hobujaama, (a major tram/bus hub area near the centre). This hub was also just a few minutes walk from my hotel. It then carries on to skirt the southern part of the outer city walls if you are based there. Click here for tram 4 timetable. 

Airport Bus

Bus Number 2 (Moigu to Reisisadam), stops at the airport on its way in from further out. It runs every 20 to 30 mins depending on the day/time, The main city centre stop is at “A. Laikmaa” and is also a small bus hub for the city. Again, conveniently, this stop was 5 mins from my hotel.  Journey time is about 15 mins and costs the same as the tram at 2 Euros. Click here for Bus Number 2 timetable

Airport Taxis

Taxis are not advised. In Tallinn the rates are not regulated and you will need to know what the rates should reasonable be before you discuss the cost before getting into a taxi – you will get overcharged if not.

However should you definitely need a taxi from the airport only use the official airport taxis that are waiting here. The official taxi partners of Tallinn Airport are Tulika Takso, Tallink Takso, Airport Taxi and Tulika Premium, whose cars will be waiting for passengers right in front of the terminal doors..

I decided on the bus, have your 2 Euros ready as they will not appreciate a large note or may not even be able to change it.

The journey was quick, safe and comfy on a modern bus. I arrived in no time and it was interesting to see the urban landscape as we passed through the inner suburbs.

Where I stayed in Tallinn

I did quite a bit of research for a place to stay in Tallinn and it was surprising.

The hotels were generally much more expensive that I was expecting. It was clear that most of the hotels within the walls of the Old Town area (which is where you will spend 85% of your time sightseeing) were in the high price bracket range.

Clearly being at the centre of the action has a price to pay but you do get the convenience of walking to the sights within minutes. However walking was no issue for me. Anyone who reads my posts know I love walking, seeing the urban landscape (good or bad) and getting a street level feel for a city.

My trick was therefore to find a hotel that was not within the city walls but within a decent 20 mins walk to get to them, It could also be on a short tram ride away (trams are universally cheap around the world I have found) – yes Tallinn does have trams …. I checked !

Some decent hotels outside the walls, but near enough, came up in my search – although several where higher class global brands and a similar high price. I needed a good reviewed hotel, modern with a restaurant for an evening meal to avoid me trekking out after a long day of walking. Yep, that love of walking comes into play again.

There were several local company hotels but the one I eventually chose filled all that I needed. It was in an area of town that had thoughtfully mixed newer buildings with the older restored ones. It even provided an eclectic mix of stores and bars/restaurants nearby by coincidence. The area was Rotermani Kvartal or Roterman for short,

It was also conveniently a few minutes from the bus and tram stop that I could take from the airport. The rate included breakfast and the pics looked great , I booked it and was not disappointed.

Hotel Metropol

This was my choice and it was a great stay.

The public areas had clearly been recently renovated and were very stylish and comfortable. The rooms were more basic Scandic style than the more classy opulence of the lobby and bar etc but still perfectly clean and modern.

Wifi was great and the room comfy with an armchair as well. The breakfast was really good with lots of variety and well replenished, despite the hotel being clearly very busy.

I did find it difficult to get a table one morning at peak time but they opened the adjacent bar area with its armchairs and tables for extra room. I simply decided to eat earlier or later to avoid that rush.

The bar was plush and comfy but strangely underused. However that meant that service was quick and easy, so I had no complaints.

The only other issue was that for two nights I was advised to eat in the evening early at around 6pm or late around 9:30pm. This was because the hotel was full with two major tour companies and these had pre booked the entire restaurant for their groups who would take every table.

A bit of an inconvenience but the food was amazing. The presentation was of a high grade and the service equally helpful.

Room views over Tallinn Old Town

What was great also about this hotel were the views.

Although it wasn’t in the Old Town centre within the fortified walls, it was tall enough to see into it. Some of the refurbished warehouse/industrial style buildings that had been tastefully converted into shops, clubs restaurants ads homes were nearby.

My room gave views down to these cobbled streets and old buildings. I had lived in a beautifully renovated old brewery building in the UK years beforehand and so appreciated the design and skill in the renovation of these buildings.

If I looked to the other direction I got views of the modern office and residential blocks that intertwined among the older restored buildings in a rejuvenation of this part of the city.

My room was high (as requested) and so I could see somewhat across the terracotta rooftops towards the church spires in the distance. These views were magnificent and possibly better than I would have got at a lower level within the walls – I was delighted.

The room rate for a 4 star hotel was very good, one reason why I decided on it and the reviews were good too. My choice was validated.

A big plus with staying here also is that the city gates are only a few minutes walk away and it’s actually near one of the best starting points for a tour of the inner city behind the walls. I would recommend this hotel definitely.

Roterman area near the Hotel, Tallinn

The area the hotel is located in is now an upmarket mix of offices, hotels, residential blocks and high class store and restaurants .

This used to be a warehouse area, near the port and many of the old buildings, from 150 years ago, have been beautifully restored and updated. There were mills, factories, and storage buildings here, built of old limestone. Many converted into apartments and later additions have added Scandic sympathetic structures to the zone.

It is mainly pedestrianised but so charmingly atmospheric in its design to keep the atmosphere of old town but with modern facilities.

Restaurants and bars abound here – up market ones for the stylish and affluent gentry of Tallinn. There’s even a Museum of Estonian Architecture here if you really want to get into the aesthetics! I loved it

A little of Tallinn’s history 

Tallinn has gone by so many different names in the past that it would be easier just to list them and explain briefly. I don’t want to get into a long commentary about this as it could become a history rather than a cultural blog post !

Tallinn is about 80 kms south of Helsinki, in Finland, across the Gulf of Finland. It’s 320 kms west of Saint Petersburg in Russia and 300 kms north of Riga, Latvia. Finally it’s 380 kms east of Stockholm in Sweden, across the Baltic Sea. It has an historical link with Denmark too and its history and name is closely linked with all of these locations. This much history means it is now a UNESCO world Heritage site

Around 1050, the first fortress was built on Tallinn in Toompea, an inner city area still on high ground today. It was first heard about in 1154 and called Kalevan – the Russians called it Kolyan and the Finns called it Raaveli. Then for a while up to 1219 it was a city called Lindanisa.

The Danes took it over and called it Reval, It was then ruled over by Catholic Germans, then the northern German/Dutch/Poles for the next 300 years. Over all this time is prospered as a trading city to the whole Baltic region and beyond.

In 1561 the Swedes took it over, the Russians captured it in 1710. The 19th century brought industrialisation of the city and the port expanded and became an important commercial and transport hub.

It stayed in Russian hands until Estonia gained its the independence in 1918. It then changed the capital’s name from Reval to Tallinn.

At the outbreak of WW2 it was re-occupied by Russia and heavily bombed, invaded and taken over by Nazi Germany and then re-annexed into the Soviet Union after the war.

It wasn’t until 1991 that Estonia was reborn again as a sovereign nation after the fall of Communist Russia. Today it is a city of just 427,000 inhabitants yet receives over 4.3 million visitors each year.

Kadriorg Park

On my first day in Tallinn I knew exactly where I wanted to head to first.

Kadriorg Park and its Museums were well reviewed and being the culture-vulture that I am I read up the the two main art museums here held the best artworks in the whole of Tallinn.

From my hotel it was simply a case of taking a fairly straight walking route along a wide road with well maintained pavements.

I enjoyed the walk as it gave me another street level view of the mix of architectural styles (more modern) en route. I passed several large shopping areas and modern blocks of apartments but there were strangely wooden semi-dilapidated houses on the way.

Many had clearly seen better days and some were more county lodge style. They all shared the characteristic though of being entirely wooden constructed with mainly panelled outer walls.

I later found out that these were the typical homes from an earlier time. Whilst to a conservationist’s eye they were unique and charming to many Estonians they were simply antiquated and run down and were gradually being replaced but much bigger buildings.

Pity, as I later saw in Riga, Latvia the following week how these homes had been restored well and often became stylish bars and restaurants harking back to a bygone era in their design.

The park is extensive with abundant trees and lawns and an attractive jogging and strolling location for locals.

It also holds 4 museums, the Kadriog Palace (also a museum) a massive lake with central island and a Japanese Garden. The outskirts have narrow canals with footbridges and the number of monuments and statues is extensive too.

Interspersed among the foliage and huge trees are cafes, walkways and various small outhouses for the park.

There are a few fountains too but the general feeling of the area is that it is a walking wilderness for recreation and bike riding.

It was laid out originally as the gardens for the Palace that Peter the Great commissioned for his wife Catherine I. They apparently used the building infrequently when they visited from St Petersburg.

One part of the park is set to terraced flower beds and stepped walkways with street lighting. Benches are provided and I saw many families with kiddies running around simply enjoying the fresh air and space.

Various open-air festivals are often staged in the park. Plan your walk through this park if you want to get the best out of it, as it is huge. There is a car park if you are driving here, as no doubt after an extensive walk around here you may need transport home.

From 1741 to 1917 the Palace was the home of the governor of the autonomous Estonia region within the Russian Empire.

After Estonia’s independence from Russia in 1918 the palace housed various art exhibitions and a gallery. In 1934 it was the home of the President of Estonia until his new residence was finished in 1938, just across the gardens within view of the palace.

The gardens are immaculately maintained and the colours compliment the colours of the facades of the Palace.

Two fountains adorn the formal planted flower beds and mini boxed hedges. The gardens are big and even with 20 or so other tourists visiting on the day I felt quite alone wandering the grounds.

There is a raised terrace up a flight of steps, facing back towards the Palace with a Poseidon statue and cascading fountain ending in a large pool. I wanted to walk up the steps and see it all from above but gates higher up the steps exclude anyone from doing that.

I believe the gates would lead into another garden but that backs onto the Presidential Palace opposite, the assumption must be that they are private for the President and an obvious security area.

Interior artworks

After WW2 the palace was again used as art gallery but not well maintained and thus in 2000 it reopened after 11 years of extensive refurbishment.

In 2006 the modern KUMU museum opened, again nearby in the park, housing only Estonian art. The Kadriorg Palace, now housed only foreign art and thus both became two of the five Art of Estonia buildings.

So, you can see the interior of the palace where Pater and Catherine wandered and marvel at the decorative wails and columns, but the Palace also functions as an art gallery. The ground floor looks and feels quite functional.

Here are the rather plain plastered walls and ceiling with chandeliers fairly unadorned. It serves as an atrium and entrance area for the Palace and tickets can be bought here.

Up on the first floor is some quite noteworthy decorations. High at eave’s level, in the light filled two storey windowed room, is a plaque with the initial E of the Empress Elisabeth.

The room is very decorative in its greys and whites and the feeling is more Western European than Russian. The curved, embellished eaves reveal mini statues and plasterwork of cherubs and flowers. It is altogether a very different style to the rather darker and plainer ground floor areas.

Let your gaze rise higher and you will see the large painted ceiling fresco with a particularly large decorative scene.

Its so easy to walk in this room and miss the highlights – the plaque, cherubs and opulent ceiling painting are above your head .

The walls of the Palace contain the foreign artworks and they are displayed as it they are paintings in a house. Unfortunately no photography s permitted so sorry, none to see here.

There are no masterpieces here of great world-famous artists. In fact I had heard of none of them, but that does not detract from the beauty of the works on display.

Presidential Palace

This was finished in 1938 and was the new Palace for the President of the newly independent Estonia. The President previously lived in the Kadriorg Palace at the end of the large gardens.

It was first lived in by Konstantin Pats who was five times the President of Estonia. Sadly he didn’t get long to enjoy living here. Following the Soviet takeover in 1940 he spent most of his remaining years incarcerated in psychiatric institutions – he was deemed delusional for continuing to maintain that he was the president of Estonia.

Whilst you can’t go inside, you can take as many photos as you like from the outside through the gates. It curiously has pink and white pastel coloured walls and a green pastel roof. Quite photo-worthy!

Peter the Great’s cabin

This little museum is housed in what was Peter the Greats house when he first visited Tallinn. Being ungracious, I could say you may walk past it thinking it is just a large amenity building or storeroom, such is its small size and non-descript look.

However it is an historical building, over 300 years old.

It is s restored and features period furniture and paintings of the Tsars on two floors. Small enough to see it all in 30 mins it has an interesting video in the basement explaining the house.

It seems quite a basic building for a Tsar but remember that Peter was at heart a hands-on, practical man and he loved the simpler things in life, despite his grand buildings.

In some ways it reminded me a lot of the log cabin that he lived in while building St Petersburg

KUMU Museum Tallinn Estonia

This is one of the five buildings of the Art of Estonia Museum. KUMU is an abbreviation of the Estonian “Kunstimuseum” (‘art museum’). Clever eh?

It is a modern glass and granite building completed in 2006 and actually built as a semi circle into the limestone gradual slope of a hill in Kadriorg Park. It even won the 2008 European Museum of the year Award.

The entrance is very stylish with its grey slate walls, green tinged glass  and a curving, massive wall. The ground floor house an interesting gift shop and a relaxing café.  It includes exhibition halls, an auditorium and an education centre for children and art lovers.

I spent a long time in here as the building is quite deceptively large. It goes down into the ground as well as having a roof top level with the top of the slope.

Click here for link to Museum info

If coming by car then fee parking is available next to the museum on Valge Street.

Whilst the internal area and exhibits were captivating, it also has one of the most interesting displays of outdoor art work.

Here you can also appreciate the artistry if the shape of the building built into the natural slope of the park but also see the incredible artworks.

I particularly loved the somewhat scary looking columns with weird shaped baby heads.

Estonian artworks

KUMU has both permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. The main collection covers Estonian art from the 18th century onwards, including works from the occupations period (1940–1991) and showing both Socialist Realism and Nonconformist art.

The artwork on Soviet times was unique as I’ve not seen too many places that have this quantity and quality of art from that time.

Whilst I had never heard of any of the Estonian artists – I don’t think I even know one Estonian artist in fact, the displays were amazing.

There was a uniqueness about the artworks as they presented an historical aspect on eg the Russian Communist period and the post breakup period.

The art works, especially the room of sculptured heads and busts – does Estonia have a thing about heads?- was different from anything I had seen displayed in traditional modern art galleries.

It is the biggest museum in Estonia and one of the biggest in Northern Europe and it certainly lives up to its 2008 “best in class” award.

After my day of long walks my legs could not face the 30 mins walk back. This was easily resolved as I walked back to where I entered Kadriorg park. Tram 1 or 3 at the stop marked “Kadriorg” would carry me back to virtually a few mins from where I started at my hotel …… I took the tram back!

Thus finished my first day in Tallinn and I was already excited at what tomorrow would bring with its very different itinerary.

A walking tour of Tallinn 

To see Tallinn Old Town area will require a lot of walking. Much of it is pedestrianised and to be honest that is the best way to see it fully.

I conveniently started my daily walking trips from my hotel as it was near the walls and near the northern gate entrance. I literally walked out of the hotel, through the car park and crossed over the big road intersection and I had started my journey already.

Here was the

Kanuti Garden

This was once a moat area to the city walls but was drained and in 1866 converted to an open air area where seasonal circuses and funfairs entertained the masses. It was converted to the more formal gardens that we see today after WW2 and in recent decades embellishments were added.

One of which was the statue to Russian novelist, philosopher and journalist F. Dostoevsky’s. His literary works explore human psychology in the troubled political, social, and spiritual atmospheres of 19th-century Russia.

I suppose it is fitting that his bust is located in the park next to the impressive Russian Cultural Centre. This once held the old Navy Officers House but its use was reassigned upon Estonian independence from Russia.

The park is filled with trees, lawns and border hedges with plentiful seating to enjoy a warm day. The recent 2008 fountain named “Boys with umbrella” adds a sense of playfulness to the surroundings

Walk north out of the park and you walk along the perimeter of the old city wall fortifications. Here is the coastal bastion- a grass roofed thick granite walled defence section overlooking the grassed area in front. Here is also where the monument to the lives lost in the sinking of the Estonian ferry in 1994 sits.

Northern Gate Entrance

Walk further and turning the corner you are met with one of the biggest towers of the old city walls. This wide and stout tower now houses the Estonian Maritime Museum. Not something that interests me, but if it does it for you, then you apparently also get great views over the rooftops of the old centre from its roof .

Walk through the 16th Century gate built into the side of the tower and you are now in the Old Town area.

Streets from here on are well preserved and maintained. Renovation is strictly controlled to preserve it antique look and to be honest parts are like stepping back a few centuries.

Cars can come through this gate but you will find they are strictly ones owned by residents in the Old Town area, suppliers to the restaurants etc and specifically a cute train with carriage for tourists!

Two of the buildings worth seeing here, from the outside, is the quaint Estonian Children’s Literature Centre  that’s also a small museum

A few doors further along is the eclectic “three-in-a row” building of the Three Sisters. This building complex today is a well known hotel but records date them back to 1362 and every owner since is recorded … history indeed. These houses formally lodged merchants and city elders. It was on this street that spices, meats and grains were bartered and sold.

This will give you an introduction to the visual and architectural delights you are about to encounter on this walkabout.

Remember to look up as many of the buildings have beautiful ornamentation at roof and second floor level that you must not miss.

Carry on walking up the street and take the first right, then the left at the end of that road.

You are now a few metres away from probably Tallinn’s most famous church – and I’ll tell you why it is so famous.

St Olaf’s Church Tallinn

This church dates from 1297 and got its name from the Norwegian King Olaf who was later made a Saint after his death. It was a meeting place for the Scandic people in the city at the time. Over time it passed through the hands of various religious denominations (presently it is a Baptist Church).

The fact that it still stands is amazing as it has burnt down 3 times and been hit by lightning 10 times. The present spire is nearly 124 metres tall – hence why it was used in Soviet times as a radio mast.

The fame to glory …. well, it is said that between 1549- to 1625 it may have been the tallest building in the world.

The interior is actually very plain. Its whitewashed walls and brown wooden pews stand out starkly.

The lack of wall adornments and the slender columns supporting the pointed arches of the nave draws your eye to the only two big embellishments. The altar has a large painting of the crucifixion. The other end contains the pewter coloured pipes of the organ.

The only other adornment are the several large chandeliers hanging low and suspended from the vaulted ceilings. However it is not the interior that inspires, it is something else!

Views from St Olaf’s spire

To one side is a doorway (fee payable), up which you climb hundreds of steps. The climb only has a rope handrail and the steps are somewhat roughly hewn and the climb seems forever.

You are climbing what was once the tallest tower in the world so expect physical exertion to get to the top!  You will definitely be rewarded with what is the greatest view over the rooftops of the old town and even further out to the port and suburbs ….. well worth the effort.

The views are astounding.

On a clear day, which today was, I could see all the red roofed turrets of the city walls and virtually follow the wall line around the old town. The higher Toompea area that I was to visit later was clearly visible and you get a real visualisation of the floorplan of Old Town.

The far outer areas of the city with the modern tall buildings were visible and the Baltic Sea and forests between here and that coast line were glorious.

You get views that you would never get at street level. For instance I could see into the coastal bastion and its interior buildings that were not visible from the street – where I only saw a huge grass roofed walled fortification.

The roofs of nearly every building in the Old Town are covered by terracotta tiles. many looking fairly new from renovations. The cream and white colours of the stucco covered house walls stood out in the sunlight and it was a real moment. of awe.

Old Town area

Climbing down from the top of the tower, I realised I had quite a bit more to explore in just this part of Old Town alone.

Follow the road back on the original route as before. The roadway here is surfaced in well worn smooth bricks and parts are cobblestoned to lend an authentic air to the area. Although cars can use the roads, few seem to – no doubt the rougher surface deters them but also these roads only lead to residents houses and local restaurants etc so they are definitely not major thoroughfares.

Take the next right. This leads you along a street of less developed and maintained old building – no doubt give it a few more years and these will be as pristine as the others are before they were renovated.

At the end of the street you arrive at what looks like a massive hole punched through  the city walls. The side streets on either side of the walls give you an idea of how houses are built right up to the walls. Walk through the gap and you enter into a huge grass parkland with walkways and massive trees.

Snelli Park

This park is full of low hedges, big lawns, play areas, ponds, fountains, statues and artwork. There is even the leftover of the old moat that is now a pleasant elongated zig-zag small lake.

This park is delightful and on a warm Summer day such as the day I had, it was great to take advantage of the tree shade and just enjoy the greenery. Locals were picnicking and chatting on the benches, kiddies were playing in the playgrounds and others just strolling along the myriad of walkways.

There was an open air display of small gardens of differing designs but for me the fountains and views across to the city walls and turrets was the outstanding view from here.

Tallinn city walls and towers

If you ask people who have visited this city what is the outstanding feature, I reckon most would reply the City Walls. I’d probably agree too!

They are some of the most complete mediaeval, and later, walls that I have ever seen. They are in such a great state of preservation that it is still easy to imagine how the areas looked back in its day.

These views of the walls and towers are also probably the defining image that is portrayed of Tallinn in any tourist publication. In Snelli Park area you get the best panorama of the city walls

They are amazingly preserved, impressively tall and robust looking and such a picturesque backdrop in any photo. I took so many and this section of the walls with their park walkways facing them is probably the area that will afford you the best shots of these iconic fortifications. Miss this area at your peril!

Rather than talk about every tower, turret or wall I’m presenting a collage of the pictures of the walls as I met them travelling around the city.

Some parts are accessible and you can walk the tops or ascend into one of the numerous towers. There are several still preserved gate areas to the city.

I’ll talk about sections of these walls as we wander the city in more depth, as appropriate, at various points, Here just scan through the pics and you can see for yourself the marvellous vistas and settings they provide.

There are so many good views of the walls that it is impossible to just restrict the pics to a couple. Each turn of a road or hill brought into view another amazing view of them.

I was astonished to find such a treasure here, very unexpected. I knew there were city walls but I had no idea they were so complete, picturesque and atmospheric. The red conical roofs on the towers just looked so … well …. Scandinavian  and quite unique too.

Boris, deers and stairs 

The alternative entrance is further along. A little less impressive as the walls give way to the wide cobbled surfaced street but it has two added attractions. This entrance gives you your first real view of the higher Toompea area that we shall visit later.

The Patkuli stairs here are a flight of stairs connecting the lower part of the city to the higher where the old fortifications are. There is a great panorama from the two platforms. I didn’t take the stairs as I knew later I would be arriving at the top of them from another direction for the views.

The other attraction is the wall bas-relief/plaque of thanks given by the city to Boris Yeltsin, a past Russian President. He supported Estonia in their struggle for independence from Russia and this small but intricate memorial states that.

A little further along is a small grass and wooded terraced area adjacent to the high escarpment of the Toompea Hill. Look into the park and see if you can make out the small statue of the deer standing near the waterfall. You can go into the park along the pathway but it is so small that I just admired it from the roadside.

From here you can spend hours just wandering the Old Town Area, The cobble/brick surfaced streets are just full of 16-19th Century preserved buildings. Apart from some larger than normal glass windows on Shopfronts you would think you have been sent back in time.

Even the street lights are painted ironwork gas lamp style attached to walls. Every building is a different pastel shade and the signwriting for the stores and restaurants is stylised in old script.

I walked to the end of the street before turning left at an old entrance under some buildings and head down Pikk street. Yes, you will notice the tourist numbers have increased – a sure sign that you are near some important sites.

You are now in true tourist land – an abundance of small restaurants, cafes, ice cream shops and souvenirs store will tell you this and just ahead further along Pikk Street is another place to stop.

Holy Spirit Church Tallinn

The Church of the Holy Ghost or the Holy Spirit is a medieval Lutheran Church that dates from 1319, It was enlarged in 1360, with vaulting, a low tower and large gothic windows. Finally the tower we see today was built higher in 1630.

From the outside it has a small entrance with a a high inlaid clock set into the walls dating from the 17th Century.

It is famous for being the first church to hold services in the local Estonian tongue rather than the various conquering languages at the time.

The interior is again rather plain on its white-washed walls but there is a beautiful panelled wooden mezzanine running around the walls. The paintings are of biblical scenes originating from the 17th century. Again, dark wooden pews like in St Olaf’s are sited in the nave.

I was surprised to see a certain flag hanging above a memorial plaque on the wall. I recognised it as being of the British Royal Navy. On closer inspection it commemorated the British Navy lives lost during the fighting for Estonia after WW1

Pikk Street Tallinn

This meeting of several pedestrianised roads outside the church forms an irregular square. Here sits the Estonian History Museum in the Great Guildhall and the yellow painted Marzipan Café that will tempt you in for coffee and cake.

The rest of the buildings on the long street is are architectural delight. Full of beautifully restored buildings housing offices, residential units and shops. Art Nouveau buildings mix with faux mediaeval styles and all painted in differing pastel shades.

You will notice a rather grander styled building called House of the Blackheads. This beautiful building is the home of Tallinn Philharmonic Orchestra and is used as a concert hall. But when there is no concert taking place, there is not much to see except its impressive façade and the great, medieval main entrance door. painted in green and red.

Walk the length of the street for a few more minutes until you come to the fork in the road. Here lies a cute open air restaurant with tubs of flowers, checked tablecloth tables and all enclosed by a low wall. Note to self to maybe come back later here this evening.

The walk down this street to the road fork and back should only take around 7 mins but is well worth it to see one of the most architecturally rich streets in the city.

Beside the Church of the Holy Ghost is an alleyway. Take that route past some more charming old buildings with outdoor artisan eateries and you will arrive at the Town Hall Square. One of the most famous sites here.

Old Town Hall Square 

The Square is as old as the Town Hall i.e. from 1322 but the buildings lining it on its perimeter do not date from that period. They are mostly 17-18th Century classic Scandinavian style. Remember Tallinn was heavily bombed by both sides during WW2 and much of what we see today are restorations or rebuilding of their ancient buildings.

It is famous for having a Christmas tree here every year since 1441 and regular open air markets are set up here. Goods sold can be anything from souvenirs and traditional crafts to foodstuffs.

Today the majority of the square’s buildings are restaurants and bars at ground level. Often with extensive open-air seating and massive parasols. It is very touristy in that hundreds flock here, especially during the Summer to enjoy the views from the hundreds of tables and chairs.

The paved flooring keeps the ancient feel to the square. The sloping roofs and many irregular patterned windows and storeys levels give it a charm that many want to see.

Old Town Hall

Along with the city walls the Town Hall with its 64 metre tall, slim tower, is another of the iconic symbols of this City.

It dates from 1370 when it was just a single storey building rather than its two storey one now and was more of a storage building than a local govt building. It became a building of jurisdiction some 50 years later.

Look up at the top of the tower and you can just make out a weathervane. A weathervane has been there since 1530 but the present one is not that old.

It is actually an image of a person with a staff and flag rather than the traditional cockerel. According to the legend, the model for the weather vane was a peasant boy who excelled at the springtime contests involving firing a crossbow at a painted wooden parrot on top of a pole.

Because he was lowly born he was not given the prize for winning. However it was decided to reward him with the job of town guard for life. All his life, Thomas gave candy to the children in the Town Square. When he died he was immortalised in the weathervane

Now parents would tell their children that Old Thomas was watching how they behave and would leave candy under their pillow for good behaviour. What a story !

The tower was bombed during WW2 and had to be restored in 1952 along with a new weathervane in Thomas’s image and again another new one in 1996. The original one is on view inside.

During its long history it has also doubled as a Theatre, a Courthouse and today is a Museum. The local authority moved out of the building in 1970 when it was renovated into the historical attraction it is today.

The building is actually a record breaker -it is the oldest Town Hall in the whole of the Baltics/Scandinavian area. It won an award for the restoration of what is the oldest surviving Gothic Town Hall in Northern Europe and is today a UNESCO World Heritage site  …. praise indeed!

The building is rather plain from the outside is its cream coloured walls and lack of embellishments.

St Catherine’s Passage

This is just as you might expect …. a walkway or passageway between two areas. It connects two roads and is pedestrianised. There used to be a Monastery here but that has now gone, leaving only a carved portico as to where it was. Elements of the Monastery have been taken and used in the nearby St Catherine’s Church and the St Peter and Paul Cathedral.

Today it is an almost Harry Potter environment evoking old shops, overhead, horizontal buttresses seemingly holding the walls lining the passage from caving in. There are several shops here and even what appears to be residential units – all old of course.

A walk along here will throw you back a few centuries and there is even a part that goes through a wide echoing whitewashed tunnel to give you even more  reminisces of times past.

The irregularly placed windows, haphazardly designed doorways, overhead glass and black ironwork lamps and flaking stucco on the walls cannot fail to impress.

Viru Gate Tallinn

If you have survived so far you are doing well. We have walked for hours and no doubt many kilometres on today’s walk and my legs were beginning to tell me it was time for home.

Walking out of the passage at the other end and turning right brings you onto Murrivahe Tanav. This street has high walls topped with a wooden palisade that are the old town walls. Yep, we have walked from one end of the walls, through the Old Town area and have now arrived at the other end.

The houses and establishments here are built up against the walls which rise to around 3-4 storeys high. The stones and blocks forming the inner surfaces of the walls are impressive and are supported by strengthening buttresses.

Market style stalls abound, attached to the walls and here traditional clothing, souvenirs and fabrics are sold in a quite homely local-feel shopping area.  A couple of square towers rise above the walls. Now walk along the length of the walls to the end of the street.

This was to be my last sight to see and at the end if the street you arrive at a wide avenue to your right, a large open area and two impressive rounded towers.

This is the Viru gate, once a fortified entrance into the city. Part has been demolished, no doubt in an attack in previous years or because the narrow entrance was no longer useable in a more modern age.

The area is idyllic as pedestrians walk the cobbled streets, horse drawn carriages go plying through and the area (apart from a modern building that has seemingly defied the city plans) are gloriously ancient. Ignore the MacDonald’s on the corner – at least they kept it in a somewhat older building!

The buildings again work themselves into the structure of the towers and the couple of delightful open-air cafes here are perfect for people watching.

The city walls extend across the street and green, tree filled gardens are here to add backdrop.

An unexpected delight here is the flower market.

There is a purpose built, long line of flower stores situated right next to the park selling hundreds of various types of flowers. Cut flowers in bunches, pick and mix. huge tubs of bouquets and even mini bushes were all on sale.

The colours are Instagram-worthy and it was noteworthy to see that locals were here by the dozens buying their flowers. Prices were cheap and I was tempted … but where am I going to put flowers in my hotel room? ! If you get here take time to wander and take in the flowerscape in front of you.

This was now the end of my second day in Tallinn and I impressed by what I had seen so far. My legs were telling me that I had walked kilometres and my stomach was telling it was time to eat so I headed for my hotel a short 20 mins walk away.

One more day in Tallinn

This was to be my last day in Tallinn, as I was due to catch the bus to Riga in Latvia the day after.

My day walking would start by taking me back to The Viru Gate where I finished yesterday. From here I would walk beside the wide boulevard next to the park that I had seen, past the Opera House and Estonian Drama theatre to arrive at Freedom Square.

Note the modern block across the road – built on what looks like tree stumps from the ground. Not a special building but a really interesting one that caught my eye

Freedom Square Tallinn 

The beginning of this square, as you approach from the main road is quite green, full of trees on well kept lawns

What you can’t miss from this direction however is the solid looking yellow painted church of St John’s with green sloping roofs. This is a newly restored 19th Century Lutheran Church that faces the main square.

Walk into the plaza itself and several things will strike you.

It is wide open, flat and quite empty. It is here that military parades and open-air concerts are often put on, so the lack of paraphernalia is therefore a must,

The lighting is modern, on huge angular arms. Apart from the church, there are modern building on one side including a dept store. On another is a grassy tree filled mound with a huge glass cross. On the remaining side is a massively wide set of steps leading down to an underground shopping mall and car park.

The plaza is seemingly quite bare and brutalist modern, but looking towards the cross with its backdrop of tress and green mound is quite picturesque – quite a contrast depending where you look.

The plaza used to be called Victory Square in Soviet time but now the name Freedom Square and commemorates Estonian Independence from Russia.

The cross – called The Liberty Cross – is a recent addition to the square and commemorates those fallen in the War of Independence Estonia fought in 1918. At night this opaque glass cross is lit up to shine over the plaza.

Cross the square and head for the grass moll ahead where we re-engage with the city walls – they never seem to far away from anything important here.

Lindamae Park

This park is quite extensive and joins onto Snelli Park that we visited earlier, taking us around that section of the city walls.

Walking through the tree-scape there are cafes, a small church and plenty of walkways.

Further back is the floor imprint of two feet. This commemorates the Baltic Way which started from here. This was an event in 23 August 1989 when the Baltic capitals of Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius were, in one day, connected by approximately two million people joining hands to form a human chain. It spanned 675.5 km across the three Baltic states. At the time they were under Soviet rule and thus was one of many acts of defiance moving towards their independence from the USSR.

The tower you can see nearby set into the city walls in the Kiek in de Kok, a restored cannon tower from the 15th century, It’s now a museum with exhibits & tours of secret tunnels. I didn’t venture in as it was minor attraction for me and there were more interesting things yet to see.

At a crossroads you will see a huge granite block with an epitaph engraved on it.

This huge stone is installed in memory of the restoration of Estonia’s independence and its withdrawal from the USSR on August 20, 1991. Citizens fearful of the UUSR overthrowing the newly declared independent Estonia blocked the way to the building of the Supreme Council of the Estonian SSR. This local govt centre was located in the castle of Toompea, where the present Estonian parliament is now located.

When the counter threat to Estonia’s independence subsided all the barriers and boulders were removed but this one left as a memorial to the action to defend Estonian independence.

Just across the way is a small pretty statue on a rock mound of a grieving mother. It is supposed to represent the sadness of mothers under the repression of Stalin. There are benches to sit nearby and I did to take in this quite insignificant but beautiful sculpture. The statue is called Linda, who is also a female folklore hero who built the nearby hill.

The park was quiet, not many people about and I could hear the rustle of the leaves and the birds chirping away – a moment of bliss

Parliament Building and Toompea Castle

Walk out from this statue onto the main road and you will get an outstanding view of the Toompea Castle – now the Estonian Parliament. You know you will be here as the number of coaches for day-trippers is large in the nearby car park and frustratingly on the side on the road you are standing.

The tower you see in front of you is Tall Hermann, originally built in 1360 but added to in the 16th Century. It rises from Toompea castle – the Estonian Parliament building.

The building here emphasises the site of the castle, on a large hill to one side of the Old Town area within its walls. You can see this mediaeval side of the castle but walk uphill from the crossroads near the memorial boulder and you enter the Parliament square area with a totally different façade to the Parliament building.

Once through the walled sides of the bridge, over the chasm, you enter into a square with the façade and main entrance of the Estonian Parliament building to your left and Nevsky Cathedral to your right.

Parliament has sat here from Estonia’s declaration of independence in 1918 till its overthrow by the Soviets in 1940, then the Nazis in WW2, then back to the Soviets after WW2. It wasn’t until 1992 that Estonia again declared itself independent and removed itself from the Soviet political system. It has been the seat of Parliament ever since

You can go on a tour of the inner rooms of Toompea castle which holds not just the Parliament but also, an exhibition area, an art gallery, a shop and seperate castle rooms. A passport/ID is required for access. Click here for info.

There were works going to the ground in front of the Parliament on my visit and to visit inside would have meant a long wait for the next tour time so I moved to explore the Toompea area further.

The castle itself has been here since the 9th Century but the grand buildings you see today are mainly from the 12th Century  In 1219 the Danes took it over and the castle itself was called Taanilinnus “Castle of the Danes ” – from where came the name Tallinn for the city today.

The castle was expanded massively when a Catholic Military Order from nearby Riga in Latvia took it over in 1227.

Over the centuries the castle fell and was taken by so many invading forces. First Teutonics (German area) in the 14th Century who added a monastery, chapel and dormitories, Then Swedes. Poles and Russians all had a hand in  a few more additions in later centuries.

The Russians added a Palace in the 1700’s to the front.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

As the main Orthodox Cathedral in Estonia, this building is much smaller than you would expect. I saw much bigger Orthodox churches in Kiev, Moscow and St Petersburg. It is exquisitely formed however with rich decorations on the outside in white, terracotta and beige. The onion domes were, for me, strangely covered in black fish-scales like tiles. I am more used to seeing them covered in gold.

It sits opposite the Parliament/Toompea Castle and is the starting point of any trek into the Toompea Hill district of the Old Town.

Built in 1894 under Russian rule, it was considered for demolition when Estonian gained its first independence in 1920, so hated was its reminder of past Russian dominance. Thankfully it was not destroyed as it is a beautiful building today.

Toompea Streets Tallinn

According to a legend, the entire hill of Toompea was made by a mythical female called Linda – we saw a statue to her earlier. She built up the hill with her own hands, if you believe the story.

Historically this ancient hill was inhabited from the 9th Century, due mainly because the natural hill was an easily defended stronghold. Over time, the hill developed itself commercially and then spread further along all sides. It still is a seperate hill to the rest of Tallinn Old Town area.

The whole area of Toompea Hill is filled with classic Scandinavian buildings. Many elegantly restored and painted and all giving a feeling of a bygone era. So many streets are cobble-stoned and there are several viewing platforms where streets end in small plazas or dead-ends with wide panoramic views over the land ahead.

I simply wandered the streets and enjoyed the marvellous buildings I encountered – embassies, govt dept buildings, residential homes, small stores and a few grand edifices now internally converted into up market offices.

St Mary’s Cathedral 

Originally dating from the 13th century as a small wooden church that was built by locals. It was rebuilt by the invading Danes but yet another invasion saw it desecrated and it wasn’t until 1240 that it was finished in a basic style and design.

Enlarged in the 1300’s, then severely damaged in the Tallinn fire of 1684 and rebuilt, what we see today dates from that period. The spire however is an 18th Century addition.

Set in another open area surrounded by houses of past centuries, it dominates the area, with its bright white walls and stark black roof.

The interior houses many famous leaders and revolutionaries from around Europe from centuries past.

What is noticeable on the interior walls are the almost overstocked and large emblems of coats of arms from the 17-20th Centuries. These stand out on the rough and white coloured walls as they are somewhat colourless.

There are pastel green painted blocks of pews and an ornate pulpit. A viewing area that resembled to me more a train signalling box hangs on one wall and the dominant altar piece painting in its multi-pole framing stands out.

The more modern organ from 1914 stands at one end.

Danish King’s Garden, Tallinn

The park is the place where the Danish flag “Dannebrog” was apparently born and is the present-day flag of Denmark. Legend has it that the flag fell down from the heavens during the Battle of Lindanise of 1219.

In this battle the Danish King Valdemar II was fighting the Russians. As he won the battle he used this flag and its design to represent him

Every year on 15 June, Dannebrog or the Day of the Danish Flag is celebrated in the garden. and a festival is held

The park’s name derives from the times when Tallinn and the surrounding area was ruled over by the Danes. Their rule lasted over a hundred years mainly during the 13th century.

Their rule brought great prosperity to the city

An interesting sight here is that of the several bronze statues of ghostly monks.

It is supposed to be the most haunted place in Tallinn and these monks roam at night. Somewhat cute and weird, the statues are well worth seeking out to find them ….. hint one is above your head on the walls!

The views from the multi-layered gardens are spectacular over the Old Town area but look down the walls on the other side, as here is a modern sculpture. No info on what it is but my guess is it is an abstract interpretation of the falling of the red and white flag from the heavens …. who knows!

There is a Museum in the towers and entrance gives you the opportunity to also walk the walls in this area.

Thus, my final day in Tallinn ended.

The walk back to the hotel from here was a leisurely stroll through the Old Town streets that are just so full of charm and history.

Whilst the buildings themselves may not be historically important, they are old, beautiful and atmosphere just emanates from their walls.

I loved just strolling and wandering the streets, taking in the views at every turn of the road. Tallinn had impressed me greatly and was definitely not the modernist Stalinist city that I imagined it to be. Yes, there are examples of this in the outer areas but the Old Town was one of the most complete Olde Worlde places I had visited in a long time.

Street scenes of Tallinn

Just more pics of the buildings I encountered on my stroll back to the hotel for a well deserved rest before my onward journey to Riga in Latvia the following morning ….. i just can’t get enough of these buildings !!!

Aug 2017

Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.