Lebanon – Beirut

Beirut, Lebanon

Beirut feels, in one area, like a New York-by-the-Med from its skyscrapers with million pound boats in its Marina and high end restaurant complex. Then, in another area, becomes a 17th century town, with its old quarter and exquisitely painted ceiling Main Mosque and Cathedral sitting side by side next to roman ruins. Growth and expansion is a major factor here and recovery after the civil war is very evident. Walk the long, long sea front promenade and divert into the main shopping street to get a bite to eat from many artisan eateries. Pop into one of the best modern art galleries in the region and then into the museum full of ancient artefacts nearby. It’s full of contrasts and changes and I loved it ! There is a big nightlife here so choose your hotel well but remember to use Beirut as a base to explore nearby cities and sites on tour buses. Public transport, as many of us understand it, is virtually non-existent, hence constant massive traffic jams.

I visited seven places in Lebanon, as part of my Middle East, three week tour. I used Beirut as a base for day trips out of the city into Lebanon. Below are the other sites I visited in Lebanon:

Byblos, Jetta Grotto Caves and harissa, (click here for info)

Baalbek, Anjar and Ksara Vineyards, (click here for info) 

On this Middle East trip, I also visited five places in Egypt and six in Jordan. Find the places I went to under those countries on my destinations page.

Use Beirut as a base to explore this interesting country

Lebanon is, physically, not a huge country. It is only 271 km top to bottom and 56 km wide. However, it is difficult to move around in, due to its mountainous landscape, underdeveloped infrastructure and lack of good public transport.

Luckily Beirut is pretty central from north to south and is in the coastal, non-mountainous area, so north to south routes to other coastal cities ie Sidon, Tripoli and Tyre are not too bad.

It is when you want to go east, inland, that you hit the mountains, deep valleys, and differing communities that have not always got along well. Here communications and travel can be a challenge. As I write, the Syrian Civil/ISIS War has just finished and the road route into Damascus has reopened.

However internal political tensions in Lebanon have resurfaced. Economics issues have also appeared after the recent mega-explosion in Beirut. These all threaten to push back gains in many areas, made over the last few decades.

You can hire a car or even an expensive car and driver option to take you to many sites around Lebanon but these are time consuming, unreliable and even scary. Knowing the bad state of many roads and the many military road blocks in more isolated areas to negotiate, this can also  be difficult.

Why Beirut?

For many, many years I had wanted to see Beirut. I had heard that it was a mini Paris and  that it was a wealthy city in an Arab/Middle East setting. In those days many countries were not wealthy, (apart from the oil-rich states). The impressions of style and chicness with minimal poverty was the vision ……. then came the horrendous Civil War.

That put paid to any visit to this city and promptly blew away any aspect of wealth and chicness.

It recovered when that war finished and again I wanted to go, only to have the Israeli and Syrian invasions disrupt the country’s peace again. Some calm for a few years but then the ISIS conflict and latterly the Syrian refugee problems again stunted growth and made me concerned for safety there. Things calmed down when ISIS was defeated and as I was planning a trip to Egypt and its neighbour Jordan, the thought of again getting to Beirut raised its head.

I looked at the possibility of visiting Lebanon – not cheap as budget airlines don’t fly there and the semi-monopoly of a few state airlines made it expensive. Hotels were not cheap either so I reconsidered it. Finally I looked at internal flights from the region and decided that even a short flight from nearby Amman in Jordan was too expensive …. so …..  I had airmiles saved up for a time that I would desperately need them and this may be the opportunity.

Luckily my loyalty programme included an airline I could use on that route.  I booked it!.

It took a few weeks of checking for the latest deals on hotels in Beirut and finally a fab deal appeared for a good and well reviewed hotel  …. I booked it! At last  – Lebanon added onto my Egypt and Jordan trip, with a stopover for a few days in Istanbul on the way back thrown in …. this was going to be fun.

Where to stay in Beirut.

Several areas come to mind for this question.

If you want to be central, then the Hamra area is good. Surrounded by the shopping streets and central area of Beirut and near some of the sites and the coast, it is good for those who do not want to walk much. I love walking as anyone who follows me here knows so that was not a benefit for me.

The Zaitunay Bay/Marina area is ultra modern with the best hotels – Phoenician and The Four Seasons are neighbours here but very, very expensive. No real culture nearby as the Marina and restaurant area is recently built for the wealthy – but handy to moor your £20 million yacht in …. I don’t have one !

A sea view in Ras Beirut or Manara is nice but then you are at the opposite end of the city from eg the main museum involving a long walk or taxi ride in congested streets.

I continued my search and eventually found several upscale hotels in an area between Hamra and Zaituny that whilst were in side streets and were thus not strictly in either area, had great prices. Reviews were plentiful and complimentary so I took the plunge.

Where I stayed in Beirut

I decided on an apartment hotel in this area that, from the pictures, was modern (looked new) and had easy access to the east and west of the city.
The B Residence was a great choice.

I had an ultra modern studio with a big comfy bed and a lounge area with TV, a modern kitchen and a new bathroom. Wifi was good, air con great and housekeeping excellent. The balcony was huge with a table and chair and although the view was of the apartment across the small side street, it was quiet. Click here for its Facebook page. 

It is clearly an apartment block that has been converted and refurbished into hotel apartments and there was still some work going on. I noted that the lift still had its transport tape on as was newly installed. and workmen were using it for the upper floors. No noise of work though.

Staff were helpful and arranged transport to and from the airport – remember there is no public bus/train/tram network for the airport. Weird as that might sound it is true and was confirmed also by the tourist office. The taxis are very expensive on the airport-city route so book one in advance or get ripped from the haggling at the airport, as they have a transport monopoly.

There is no café etc at the residence (you have a kitchen for food with fridge and microwave in the studio, but no cooker). Staff were saying they have plans for a café when it is all finished in 2020. There was a big empty patio/room available for it on the ground floor.

One quirk was that they did not supply crockery in the kitchen though. When I asked why provide a kitchen but no knives and crockery they said that people always eat out. However they did get some for me when I explained I booked the apartment to make food at home for a change, after 3 weeks living off hotel food in the Middle East.

It was very near the Zaitunay Bay Marina and other hotels, so if you need some variety, a plethora of up-market eateries are all around you. There was a small grocery store across the road and several fast food style outlets nearby too. I would recommend it as a great central location to base yourself in, to get to all the sites that are spread all over the city.

Yep, I know, I walk a lot and walking 30 mins between sites is not unusual for me – and this will happen on a walking tour of Beirut!. You could take a taxi between sections or just one to get to a far away starting point. However, the walking between sites gives you an insight into how the citizens of the city work, live and shop, just from seeing them on the move and walking through untouristified streets.

Walking gives you such a different view of a city to what you encounter from the back seat of a taxi – just look at what I found on a walking, wander below. I would never have seen this otherwise from a taxi!

No matter where you wander in Beirut, something surprising and photographable always comes into view at some point. I loved how people had decided to liven up a rather shabby area of the street near my hotel with painted tyres as flower pots – only in Beirut!

Split Beirut into 3 parts to visit easily

For me, looking at a map of Beirut, there are 3 tourist areas. On the eastern side of the city is Hamra Street central shopping area and then a walk further to the Raouche Rocks, then walk the length of the sea promenade corniche back to Zaitunay Bay.

In the middle lies the sites around the Grand Serail, Roman Baths, Maronite Cathedral , Al Amin Mosque, Martyr’s Square, modern Beirut Souks and Zaitunay bay.

The third would be the eastern edge with the Sursock Museum and National Museum of Beirut. 30 mins walk between them however.

This how I spent my days in Beirut, by splitting the city into three parts to visit. I managed to see them all easily along with lots of healthy walking between sites. I never took a taxi in Beirut except to and from the airport but I don’t think many would be willing to do the kilometres of walking I do!

What to see in Beirut.

Beirut sites are quite spread out across the city. So the decision is what are the most important sites you want to visit. From that you can work out bite-sized/day- worth pieces to see it.

One option would be to take a taxi ride between the areas (expensive and slow given the congestion on Beirut’s streets).

Another would be take the city tour bus (reduced time at each location and it does not stop everywhere).

Buses are vague and unfathomable for routes on the few that actually run.

The best, in my opinion, is split the city into sections and see each a day at a time and walk.

Hamra Street, Beirut

A walk along Hamra street is a good introduction to the central/main area of the city.

It is generally full of shops, stores, hotels and eateries and has a very local feel. Here the people of Beirut shop and socialise and you will find local and international coffee shops and stores. The streets can get busy and if shopping is not your thing then this may be a boring area, (I personally would hate the walk down Oxford St in London, despite its fame).

The buildings are not necessarily tall or architecturally outstanding (just all built in the last 50 years or so), but every now and again some building will catch your eye. Despite the fame it seems to have, I couldn’t get why it was so famous.

For me it was just an average pleasant shopping city street like many in the world. At the eastern end of the street divert left and follow the street down to the coast.

Raouche Rocks

At the Corniche or promenade are great views out to the Med but everyone comes here to see the Raouche Rocks. These are just a couple of wave-worn big rocks that sit alone a few metres of the coast.

Pretty as they were, I was disappointed in such an average looking bunch of rocks standing next to the very modern semi-skyscrapers of the beach/promenade area. Loads of people, mainly locals were taking selfies with the rocks and posing with friends.

Corniche

The area was modern. Lots of younger generation people and young families were walking the promenade with an abundant supply of cafes. The wide busy road next to the promenade can be off-putting from the noise and speed of some vehicles. I saw road rage between two crazy drivers and some cars there ostentatiously cruising by because of their flashiness.

A walk along this long promenade is bracing as it faces the rocky shoreline with views across the blue Med and a backdrop of largely modern high rise apartment blocks. The walk widens in areas and becomes a pleasant wide boulevard after turning the corner from the rocks and military sea area.

Here I got shouted at by a soldier! I was innocently taking photos of what I thought were abandoned buildings and waste ground with rusty barbed wire thinking what a pity that it was abandoned and left as such an eye sore. Suddenly an armed soldier popped his head of from a decrepit small look-out post and shouted something at me.

I looked up, astounded at his sudden appearance and I think he saw my surprise and then bewilderment at his shouting. He then shouted “no photo,” so I think he realised I was a foreigner and I lowered my camera. He glared at me and I made an “ok” sign and walked on.

I later saw that this was a military area (decrepit as it was with no signage). Weird, it was  across the road from modern high rise blocks (which could get a much better photo of whatever he didn’t want me to take a pic of and had a nearby swimming pool. Be warned !

This promenade/boulevard/corniche – not sure what its official name is – then becomes a really pleasant walkway. The pavements widen and palm trees appear in the middle with seating areas and small mobile cafes for refreshments. The towers become taller and more prestigious and joggers and people walking their dogs appear. Soon this feels like an up-market seaside walkway.

People just taking a stroll and young couples hand in hand grew in numbers and by the end it is a merry throng of people. The views get better as the picturesque seashore rocks widen out to sea and you begin to see buildings across the bay and further along the Corniche towards Zaitunay Bay Marina.

As the skyscrapers of Zaitunay Bay come into view nearer and nearer you know you are at the end of the long promenade. I could divert right here and go back to the hotel or carry on a bit further into the Zaitunay Bay Marina for a drink and rest at a stylish bar with views of the million pound boats bobbing in the marina …. yep …. second choice it was!

Day two in Beirut

So, this day was going to be a visit to just two places but a big long walk between them – I love my walks!

It would be a 30 mins walk to get to my first place but I was interested in seeing the streets, people watching as I walked, browsing stores and seeing life in the city on the way. I passed by several sites (to see on another day) and the route was mainly along well founded pavements in a very safe, and actually pleasant, walk.

I was headed to the Sursock Museum that everywhere had told me was one of the great culture visits of, not only Lebanon, but of the region. Hope it lives up to its big reputation for me! Read next to see my views.

Sursock Museum, Beirut

The Sursock Museum of Contemporary Art, was originally a private villa built by Lebanese aristocrat Nicolas Ibrahim Sursock in 1912. He decreed that when he died, he wished the villa be turned into a museum. He died in 1952 and exactly that happened, with the museum doors opening in 1961.

The Sursock Museum itself is not well signposted in the vicinity (click here for its website info) ,and I took a few wrong turns, despite my map, to find it. It is still a villa but garishly has a huge modern building – unassociated with it – almost tagged onto its side that spoils its look. Do not let that put you off but step inside and wonder at the amazing artworks here.

The first few rooms are personal rooms of the founder that have been left as they were, before other rooms were redesigned to hold the works of art

The Museum’s permanent collection includes modern art, Japanese engravings and Islamic art. Its general collection consists of over 800 artworks, including paintings, sculptures, and graphic arts from the 19th and 20th centuries. The majority of its works, however, are by Lebanese artists

In 2008, the museum closed for renovations and in 2015 reopened, after an expansion that gave it over 5 times its previous space. It now houses a restaurant, auditorium, research library, workshop, exhibition rooms and is widely seen as the pre-eminent art museum of Beirut.

Amazingly this museum is free to enter! Yep, went to pay and was told it is a free-to-enter art house. It’s open 10:00 to 18:00 daily, but closed on Monday and Tuesday, with a late open/finish on Thursday 12:00-21:00. make sure you get your days right to avoid disappointment! Click here for the link to The Sursock Museum website for more info.

It certainly impressed me and remains one of the most enlightening contemporary art museums I have seen in the world. If you are an art lover like me, this is not to be missed in Beirut. Give yourself a few hours and even have lunch at the superbly stylish and modern (but not cheap!) restaurant here.

I have placed my favourite paintings in the sliding gallery here as there were so many artworks I loved. Scan through them and find the ones you love best.

To walk from the Sursock Museum to the National Museum of Beirut would be about 30 mins but I love walking and taking in the sights. I did notice several taxis hanging around the museum area, no doubt ready to pick up tourists leaving so it may not be difficult to catch one here.

However, I set off on my easy, fairly straightforward route to my next place … or so I thought.

I use map.me for my digital map on my phone and would easily recommend this app. Download the map before leaving home or at the hotel to save data usage and time however. click here for info 

The walk was so interesting as it took me into a very residential area and clearly mixed religion areas from the signage I was reading on various place. I ended up going past a big building, heavily fortified and protected by armed soldiers at the entrance and driveway. The Lebanese flag was flying from its top, so I assumed it was some government Ministry.

I later found out it was the General Directorate of Internal Security Forces ….. no wonder there was the big military presence!

The National Museum of Beirut

When I arrived at the Museum there was a problem however. Beirut is built for cars so they don’t always take into consideration pedestrians. I could see the museum on the other side of the road but between me and it was a wide dual carriageway crossroads. No sign of an underpass or overpass.

I spent a while walking beside the road trying to find a way across but nothing. How can they do this!!! Place a museum at a busy crossroads but provide no pedestrian crossings.

I pondered doing a trick that I had to do in another car dominated city – Jakarta in Indonesia. Here I arrived at the Cathedral but could not get across the road as it had continuous heavy traffic with no crossings. Eventually, I hailed a cab to go down the street, turn back and drop me off on the other side of the street near the cathedral.

I was not going to do such a silly thing again, so waited for the traffic to ease after about 7 mins and literally ran full pelt across the main road. I had to do the same at the adjoining road. Stupidly hilarious, dangerous also, but an endearing memory of Beirut!

The museum was officially opened in 1942 after 20 years of planning.

It currently exhibits only about 1300 artefacts (of its collection of 100,000 objects) from prehistoric times, Roman , Greek, Arab etc up to the Mamluk period (13-16th Century).

In 1975, with the outbreak of the Lebanese Civil War, it closed its doors. The Museum was actually on a demarcation line known as “Museum alley,” which separated the warring militias and armies. Consequently it was shelled and even parts set on fire and looted.

The authorities tried to save, hide and protect internally as many pieces as possible but inevitably many were destroyed.

It reopened only in 1997, after 22 years of closure and had several reformations and refurbishments to finally have its present form.

Today it follows that classic museum of antiquities floor plan of a central focussed atrium, side wings and floors that overlook the central area.

I found most of the most interesting parts to be Roman related and even saw pieces from the sites I had visited in the valleys and mountains in Lebanon. The basement was dedicated to funerary artefacts and even had mummies and sarcophagi arranged in eerie display areas.

It is small but as the saying goes “perfectly formed” and well worth the visit, if ancient artefacts, mosaics, statues, pottery and tombs are you thing.

Day three in Beirut

My third day here was going to be a bit of a mix up/mop up session. I was to visit the modern area of Beirut, the Mosque and Cathedral and Govt area. I’d add in a few other places as I passed them. Generally I’d have a wander around what was the smallest of my three areas I had split the city into to visit. there would also be a few surprises on the way.

I set off from the hotel and the first area was only a few streets away.

Zaitunay Bay

Here is where we see the resurgence of a modern day city. The area was part of the old port and the buildings were knocked down to build fabulous new ones. There is actually still a large expanse awaiting development – and presumably funds to do it with.

It came as no surprise that the towering Four Seasons Hotel is set here and across the way is the Hilton and Intercontinental – impressive indeed. The many ultra modern glass, steel and concrete skyscrapers were clearly residential – oh to own one would be my dream – with obvious fantastic views across the marina and bay, to the far shore. The initial impression is one that impresses and the style and height of the new buildings would rival many a major sea-facing city.

Parts actually reminded me a lot of Monaco.

The central part is a new Marina with wooden walkways where mega million pound yachts are moored, probably ostentatiously for all to see and security was minimal. I could walk near the moored yachts and the views out to sea, to the other side of the bay were captivating. There were many more yachts than I imagined would be here and all so closely moored together.

There was the eponymous “Yacht Club” with high security entrance at the side.

The area also had several small poignant monuments with a war/reconciliation theme etc – very relevant to this city.

Nearby are the up market restaurants and bars that, despite the higher prices on their menus, were actually quite busy with the affluent and generally younger locals and tourists.

I walked around here, but my baggy t-shirt and practical multi-pocket hiking trousers bulging with maps, papers and phone did set me apart from the high fashion, impeccably coiffured dining folk, but it was interesting none the less.

The marina’s waters were incredibly clear and clean and the sheen of blue that came off the surface was surreal.

I saw people gathering and looking down from the boardwalk in one area and wondered what was the interest. When I got there I could see that a large shoal of small fish had gathered there feeding and circulating and provoking the attention. Confirmation indeed that the water was clean!

My walk took me to the next few stops, all located near to each other. I passed by the Beirut Souks on the way. Don’t be fooled by its name – it is a modern high end shopping Mall. It was not dissimilar to many I’ve seen around the world but it does have some good coffee shops and cafes, It also hosts the “I love Beirut” signage, that makes a great photo opportunity – and I did take one of it!

Across the road and down one side are refurbished grand buildings, kinda French/Arab in style. It gave a refined look to the area and unsurprisingly here is where many high-end stores are located.

I noticed a fabulously looking, large mosque across the road – it reminded me of buildings in Casablanca’s main square in Morocco. That Moorish modern look again. Morocco and Lebanon were both protectorates of France so maybe there’s the architectural connection.

Al Omari Grand Mosque, Beirut

Interestingly, this building was not on my list of places to see but it was so stylised and old looking from the outside, I just had to go in and see it.

On this site originally were the Roman Baths. A small Byzantine Church was built here in the 3rd Century but was taken over and converted to a Mosque in 635 CE and named Al-Omari Mosque – its present name. Crusaders conquered Beirut and it was renamed the Cathedral of St John in1150. In 1291, the Muslim Mamluks captured Beirut and converted the church back into a mosque. Its Mamluk-style entrance and minaret were added in 1350. It has remained a Mosque ever since.

During the French Mandate the façade was redesigned by adding a portico, and integrating the mosque’s main entrance into the new colonnade of Maarad Street. There …. I knew there was a more recent French/Arab look to this building !

Not knowing its history I was intrigued to go inside. Once inside I was quizzical. Its shape was long and narrow with two parallel areas on either side rather than a large square, as is normal in mosques. The roof had three vaults rather than a dome. It was brick faced rather than painted stucco, again as normal in a mosque. I loved the quirky interior and just put it down to an old design.

It was only afterwards, in reading up about it, I realised the interior was of a Christian designed church. A vaulted nave with two side apses , with a typical Christian vaulted roof made of bricks, was what I had seen. It was reconfigured to be a Mosque at a later date. Such a wonderous discovery and only found out by being curious.

I also read that here was stored a sacred strand of Muhammad’s hair that was displayed only at Ramadan. It was stolen during the Lebanese Civil war after looting in the 1970s and never recovered.

Parliament area

My walk from here continued along the same street as the Mosque and towards the central roundabout among some French/Arabic designed building. It looked like town planning from the 1920s with an modernised Arab style of architecture. Here, in the centre, I knew was the Lebanese Parliament but what I was not expecting was the severe military presence.

The streets now had barricades and armed soldiers and Police guarding the area. I was unsure if I was allowed down so asked a soldier, who waved me by. I assumed I looked touristy enough and asked politely, so I must have looked ok.

The area is urban, stylish and planned. It has a few cafes and restaurants and a few nearby old churches and buildings. However, the presence of the heavy military gave it a strange air.

Well dressed locals were dining and taking coffee in a big open area café about 20 metres from the Parliament and several open air eateries were on the street too.

However when I raised my camera to take a photo of the Parliament, it was indicated not to do so by nearby soldiers. I could look but not photo. Another anomaly as if I sat at a café table I could easily take a photo unnoticed.

Hence, no photos of the Parliament or the famous clock tower in the square but only of various nearby streets, to give you a flavour of this zone.

From the Parliament area it was a short walk to the next place on my list

Grand Serail (Government Palace)

This used to be the Lebanese parliament building and Prime Ministers Office but each has moved out and it is now just a government building . It is strangely guarded by armed soldiers with unsightly barbed wire in the street nearby.

If you want to go along the street where it is located, (actually a wide avenue), you have to check with the armed soldiers first. They waved me through – again I must look like a typical innocent tourist!

It looks an impressive building and has several interesting buildings and churches next to it. Sitting on a high terraced slope, it looks very palatial compared to its smaller, present day Parliament building.

I simply had to re- trace my steps for a few blocks from here, to get to my next place to visit. However imagine my frustration on arrival, when found it completely locked up.

Saint Georges Maronite Cathedral

This Denomination is the largest of the Christian Churches in Lebanon. For decades, in a gentleman’s agreement, Lebanon’s president has been Christian, and its Prime Minister has been Muslim. Thus the Lebanese president is the only Christian head of state in the Middle East. Its Cathedral sits next to the main city Mosque.

It was built in 1894 and is in remarkably good shape, considering it was shelled and looted during the Lebanese Civil War (1975-90). It was extensively repaired and reopened in 2000 and had a new Campanile installed in 2016. The campanile stands 72 meters high but was originally planned to be 75 meters tall as it was modelled on the 75 metre bell tower of the Santa Maria Maggiore basilica in Rome.

However the Archbishop decided to reduce its height to stand equal to that of the minarets of the adjacent Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque. It was meant as a message of interfaith solidarity and harmony. Even more annoying then that it wasn’t open when the next door Mosque was!

The Cathedral and next-door Mosque both sit adjacent to the remains of the old Roman Forum. It is still on display but sadly now are just overgrown, unkept foundation stones and a few columns.

The planning of the mosque took decades due to ground ownership complications. Not least because it was set only metres away from the next door Maronite Christian Cathedral.

However the two buildings have lived side by side in relative harmony since its opening. It makes for a photogenic photo of two major religions respecting each others place physically and in the world.

The exterior is fashioned in a caramel coloured stone. It has several tombstones to one side, in a modern setting, overlooking the roman ruins of the Forum. The main doors are huge, dark brown, intricately carved affairs with a central undercover portico.

The four minarets rise 72 metres and are the exact high of it neighbouring cathedral’s bell tower. It stands on one corner of Martyr’s Square – a large, relatively unadorned, long, rectangular open space.

The interior has a highly decorated domed ceiling – nothing unusual in that. These domes however use various shades of orange with contrasting blue circles to portrait a unique and memorable design.

The light floods in from the arched roof windows and the central square interior is surrounded by Moorish striped arches. An enormous lead glass coloured chandelier tops off the effect, and is complimented by the blue tiled Minbar area.

Being a Friday (Friday evening prayers are the most important and  heavily attended) I had to ensure I was in and out well before they began. I knew tourists would not be allowed entry at that time. Luckily when I turned up the interior was almost deserted so I was able to merrily take as many pics as I wanted.

Modern Beirut

On Fakhreddine Street near Zaitunay Bay is a street that epitomises modern Beirut. It has several amazing residential building that have become icons of Beirut.

The styling of one building with huge, open plan, two storey high balconies, randomly placed on a small skyscraper was amazing.

The bright, white, slim columns supporting the balconies between floors, juxtaposes with the slim flat lines that form the balconies floors or roofs. It is one of the most enticing buildings to live in that I have seen.

Nearby, the Damac Tower with is curving exterior reflecting the light from its almost pure glass exterior, is another wonderous building.

Further down the road, the almost Las Vegas style of the Monroe hotel and adjacent residential building, herald the entrance across the road into Zaitunay Bay and the skyscrapers that this area holds.

Further modern office blocks on this street gives Beirut a mini-Manhattan look – far removed from the old Roman ruins and Ottoman Mosques of its past.

Beit Beirut

My last image here is a poignant one and a fitting end to my visit to Beirut.

Beit Beirut, (click here for website), is a three storey  block of two adjoining houses with ground floor shops that was semi destroyed during the Lebanese Civil War 1975-90. It is still standing, but is really a shell of a building, still showing the damage inflicted on many building during this tragic period.

The bullets-holes of gunfire sprayed onto the walls of the building, the blown out windows and the semi-collapse of various parts of the building from shelling, have been left as they were.

It is Beirut’s equivalent of the Atomic Bomb Dome building in Hiroshima, left to tell a story. The story portrays the damage that conflict causes and serves as a memory to all of the not too distant past, when war was a reality.

120.00 people died in the conflict between rival religious/political groups and resulted in an exodus of nearly one million people from Lebanon. The country, in general overcame the conflict and now has a stable harmony between these groups.

March 2019