Singapore

Singapore

Singapore is a city of an eclectic mix of cultures, races and religions that melt into fabulous rainbow of surprises. From stupendous Chinese Buddhist Temples and markets in Chinatown, to Mosques and fabric stores in Kampong Glam, Malay area.  From Hindu Temples to spice filled restaurants in Little India. Everywhere there are Churches scattered next to Commercial malls  and colonial old buildings. It has the tallest of skyscrapers and ambitious modern waterside developments with beach resorts and cable car rides over jungle areas.

See The Gardens by the Bay, lit up and busiest at night, with koi fish filled ponds in magnificent parks. The city has street illuminations, amazing architecture, art galleries and museums galore, and of course the legendary Raffles Hotel. Do not miss a visit to the Long Bar here and order your Singapore Sling cocktail (it was invented in this bar) and get given a bag of unshelled peanuts as an accompaniment.

I thought long and hard about this and I have to say …… this is my favourite city in the world!

Singapore and my S E Asia tour

I visited Singapore during my month-long tour of South East Asia.

On this trip I also spent time in Indonesia, Brunei, Philippines, Vietnam, Cambodia and Malaysia. It was an amazing time of differing cultures, sights, sounds and smells and remains my most magical long-stay ventures so far.

Read how you can combine several of these countries into a easy tour and get the most of the region while there.

Click below for my trip and reviews of these places.

Indonesia: Bali 

Indonesia; Jakarta

Brunei: Bandar Seri Begawan 

Philippines: Manila 

Vietnam: Ho Chi Min City 

Vietnam: My To and Ben Tri 

Vietnam: HCMC to PPen by bus 

Cambodia: Phnom Pen 

Cambodia: Phnom Penh to Siem Reap by Bus

Cambodia: Siem Reap 

Malaysia: Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia: KL to S’pore by train.

Singapore – best city in the world?

This is going to be the hardest blog to write of the over 100 reviews on here!

Why ? Cos I loved Singapore so much I just don’t know how I am going to condense all that I did and saw into a succinct post without it being too long, gushy or over pictured. I am having to rationalise what I saw, as to be honest, there is just so much to see and do in Singapore. I have already let slip that I regard it as my favourite city in the world so you can guess where this is going, eh?

It is a country with such great wealth and high standard of living and has masses of museums, architectural delights, historical and ultra-modern buildings and unique edifices. Here are Skyscrapers, palm beaches, wonderful parks, cable cars, churches, mosques and temples and culinary delights from around the world.

The city itself has won so many awards and often comes top of many of the ‘”best city to live in/dine in” etc awards.

Its national airline is voted every year as the best in the world. Its airport is consistently nominated as the best. Its lifestyle is held in fame as a world example of harmony and peace. Its buildings and environment often asserted as the cleanest and tidiest in the world.

How do I describe the Gardens by the Bay when there is really nothing else like them in the world to compare to or give examples of. Unless you want to go inside the biospheres and up the gigantic metal trees for skyline views, the Gardens themselves are absolutely free and a delight in themselves and. …. but wait … let me stop the adulations here and get back to the blog.

This is going to be difficult.

Surprise at the airport for my Singapore flight!

Singapore was my launchpad into S E Asia. I was going to hit 7 countries and 10 locations in 30 days, going by plane, train and bus between each capital city. It was also going to be a bit of a whistle stop tour but I felt I had all the bases covered and would see all I wanted to with my virtual “by the hour” itinerary!

The surprise would be when I arrived at the airport. I had quite innocently booked my London to Singapore flight with Norwegian as they had a great price. What I had not realised was that I had booked myself onto the airline’s inaugural flight to Singapore.

So, when I arrived at the departure gate I was met with Chinese acrobats and a huge dragon dancing to the beat of Chinese drums. They were celebrating the event in style and I was one of the people to be on their first flight into Singapore.

There were complimentary snacks and drinks at the gate area, music, press and lots of company dignitaries being congratulated and giving interviews. I stayed away from the cameras as I didn’t want to be interviewed but videoed the dancing dragon and celebrations, taking the occasional photo when it arose.

The free food and drink for the passengers was much appreciated as this was a budget flight and thus I was to get no food on the flight (available to purchase if needed).

How to survive on hand luggage only

The cost of the flight was about a third of what BA or Singapore Airlines was charging but the downside was that this great price was hand luggage only. Could I live out of a small hand luggage suitcase for 30 days, as otherwise there would be a very hefty baggage charge and I was on a budget.

Well, I thought, there’s only one way to find out.

I had always been a big suitcase person, even for small trips so this was a grave concern. How would I survive in this utter minimalist state?

I reckoned that the temperatures were going to be very hot, so minimal thin clothing was needed. I could always launder a few things along the way if needed and reuse, and small individual items could even be washed and dried in the room so I didn’t need repeats of lots of these. Toiletries were at minimum as I don’t need shower gel etc as these would be supplied by the hotel.

Toothpaste was a travel one and I would buy a small one if I needed another, mini deodorant, collapsible toothbrush etc, Easy. I lived in shorts and took one pair of decent trousers and a single shirt for an evening splash at a fancy place if needed.

The end result was that I managed very well and had no issues with the small amount of clothing that was rewashed and used repeatedly. I even came in at under 9 kilos total weight which sufficed for the restrictions.

I accomplished the challenge I had set myself and am now a converted minimalist traveller – easier to carry as no big suitcase, cheaper as no hold luggage and quicker through the airport as no luggage to check in and collect – simple!

Arrival at Singapore’s Changi Airport.

The fanfare on arrival was noticeable – inaugural London- Singapore flight but again I skipped the photograhers and media who were hoping to catch passenger comments and watched bemused as the photos of the crew were snapped by the media and handshakes between important looking people in suits happened.

Flight there was good as I had two empty seats beside me. Couldn’t work out why the plane was half empty when the price was a third what the other airlines were charging and it was on the spacious new Dreamliner aircraft.

I had read that this airport consistently receives the award for best world airport so my expectations were high.

It was spacious and clean enough but did not amaze me. I found the airport actually very confusing. Lack of signage as to where to catch the Metro into town and the inter terminal transport left me wandering around for ages. Eventually I had to ask an airport guide person, who just directed me back to where I had come from so he accompanied me and I found my way but have to say even with help, the route is pretty ambiguous.

The airport design was ok but I’d seen many similar around the world. Anyway I was missing something obviously from the rave reviews of it, so maybe I should plan to explore it more on my way back.

Buy the Singapore Tourist Pass

I bought the Singapore Tourist Pass (click here for website), that gave me unlimited rides on buses and Metro as I did not want to be finding change and buying individual tickets every time I used the Metro (and I would be using it a lot!). It works out cheaper also if you will be using the Metro and buses extensively.

You can by it at the tourist and transport office at the airport – you will probably, like me, have to ask where it is, as it is hidden away in an obscure corner under an escalator.

The pass costs (in Singapore dollars)  $10 for 1 day, $16 for 2 days and $20 for 3 days. The three day one is clearly the most economic and fortunately that was the length of time I would be in Singapore for the first part of my tour trip.

You pay an additional $10 for the card itself but this is refunded in full when you hand it back at certain redemption places. I redeemed mine back where I bought it at the airport.

Which Pass to buy?

There is another tourist pass The SG Tourist Pass ( similar name so be clear which one you want when you buy it). It works exactly the same but costs $25 for 3 days (only 3 days is sold) but there is no $10 refundable charge for the card.

Convenient if you don’t want the hassle of having to get the refund back but that convenience clearly costs $5.

Both cards can be used as a normal top up travel card for transport after it expires if you need it. If you are there for a longer period this will at least get you your first 3 days there at a better usage charge rate.

I would encourage you to get this asap on arrival as you will need to use the metro and buses a lot as Singapore is not small and sites are spread out around the city. Remember however that the card starts from first usage so it can be bought in advance but the first day usage is calculated as from the validation time to 12 midnight that day.

If you are arriving late in the day just buy a single ticket for the metro to get you to your hotel etc as you will only get a few hours usage out of your first “day”. I arrived at 7am so getting it immediately meant I could have a full day’s use for my first day.

Arriving in Singapore in a downpour

I arrived in Singapore in a torrential downpour. It felt weird to be walking in rain. just as I often do in the UK, but that it was still very warm. UK rain tends to bring coldness with it but being a Brit I had a small umbrella as part of my travel kit for S E Asia and it really came in useful several times.

I took the green line from Changi Airport and did the obligatory change of line at Tanah Merah to catch the continuance of the Green line into central Singapore. However my stop was well before that at Aljunied where my hotel was situated about 12 walk from the station.

I already had my walking route planned – I use Maps.me (click here for website) as my digital map as I find them excellent. You download the map in advance to save on roaming data usage and then switch it on and it uses GPS to place you on their very detailed maps.

My route took me past the many “shophouses” in the area – basically shops along the route with houses above them for a family where the resident shop owners live. This is s a sight you will see a lot of in traditional areas of Singapore and even in Vietnam and Cambodia.

They are now often brightly coloured and decorated and are a welcome sight after seeing the amazing but sometimes monotonous huge modern skyscrapers of Singapore.

Where I stayed in Singapore

For the first time I have to report that my choice of hotel was not the best I have made in my time. I wanted to stay out of the centre of Singapore as the hotels there were horrendously expensive – especially for a higher class one.

I had read lots on the general Kallang/Geylang area being ok, cheaper and easy for transport in and out of the centre so I did a lot of research and selected the Bright Star Hotel.

While this hotel was near the Metro, it had good and bad elements. It was well placed for transport, was actually in a quiet side street so I never got disturbed by external noise (internal was something else) and was fairly comfortable. However the bad points were as follows.

At night many guests seem to use the corridors as meeting places and stand for a while loudly chatting at their room door’s entrance rather than go inside the room. Several times I had to ask neighbours late at night to stop chatting in the corridors at their door (Chinese do not talk quietly or seem to respect noise level for peace and quiet) and to go into their rooms.

The corridors are marble so every suitcase wheel, footstep and voice echoed LOUDLYnthroughout, every time anyone went by the room. Housekeeping started at 8 am and they were hellishly noisy, often shouting down the corridor at other workers for stuff they needed and bashing trollies around rooms and the corridor, I never got a lie in so was awoken every morning at 8am by the cleaning brigade!

The rooms had very dated, chipped and used furniture that now looked second hand, even a wardrobe door was semi unhinged and awkward thus to use. The bathroom cleaning was well below par and the shower area had black mould on the tiles that could easily be cleaned off if they wanted to do a proper clean.

I actually did that to keep a sense of hygiene to the shower – easy enough but apparently impossible for the housekeeper.

To top it off they often forgot to clean my room/replenish amenities etc, but did send someone up with the stuff each time I reported it.

Staff were friendly enough and it was cheap (maybe too cheap and that is the comeback on it). I stayed in the same area on my return to Singapore, just a few streets away in a fabulous, different hotel for just a little more, so I guess I just picked the wrong one, despite my research.

First day in Singapore – in the central area

I took the nearby Metro from the hotel and headed towards the central area where I would get off at the City Hall stop.

The metro is ultra-modern, clean, very safe and superbly swift. The carriages were spotless and like everything else in Singapore clean and well maintained – is this why Singapore appeals to me so much.? City Hall stop became my go-to stop as so many times I ended or started journeys here and often used it as a transfer stop from the Green line to the Red Line.

Out of the station and the enormity of the buildings hit me. My first site was the Raffles City Tower housing The Stamford Hotel and nearby buildings and I had to hestitate a while and take in the white cylindrical beast of a tower rising up in front of me – Welcome to Singapore!

St Andrews Cathedral, Singapore

Here was a surprise I was not expecting. Right beside me was St Andrews Anglican Cathedral – surprising because it was set in a green gardens area, in a gothic style and looked like it had just been lifted out of a traditional English city and plonked right here. I just was not expecting something so ….. well …… old and English in Singapore.

There has been a church on this spot since the first one in 1836, the first being demolished in 1851 after being struck and damaged by lightning twice – so much for the old saying! This one was finished in 1861 and is a classical gothic styled one with a spire and soaring arched windows.

Interestingly the Cathedral is called St Andrew’s – after the Scottish patron saint – due to the huge donations being received for it to be built from the Scottish immigrants of the area.

Two interesting fact about the Cathedral are: The Coventry Cross – three silver plated iron nails forming a cross, sent from the ruins of the 14th century Coventry Cathedral in the UK, destroyed by bombing during the Second World War, (I also saw a similar cross from Coventry Cathedral in a church in Montreal Canada).

Also there is the Coronation Carpet in a side Chapel that comes from the carpet that was used in the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in Westminster Abbey, London.

Note that there are free guided tours of the Cathedral at various times and days – None on Sat or Sun – and Sun it is for worship only. Click here to get info on the tours, opening times etc

Parliament Building, Singapore

Walking down North Bridge Road towards the river you pass the former Supreme Court, a grand classical domed building, now the national Gallery of Singapore. You will now arrive at the new Parliament building of Singapore – the old Parliament building behind it is now an Art and Exhibition Centre.

The new Parliament building was finished in 1999 after the old building it replaced behind it had become too small for the administration and meeting chambers space needed in a growing Singapore. Singapore gained independence from Britain by joining Malaysia in 1963, but became a fully independent republic in 1965 when it then split from Malaysia.

The new building is very authoritative and definitely has an eastern style in its architecture but with a western allure in its exterior classic columns. I wasn’t allowed to go into the building.

You can go inside the building but tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and it can be busy so people are often disappointed to not be able to get in. There are group tours available but these need to be booked in advance. Click here for the parliament website about visiting 

However the interior was not high on my list of visits, so I was perfectly content with taking in the views from the streets across its perfectly manicured lawns.

My next visit was to be the place I had been wanting to see for many years and I had high hopes that its unique setting would delight me – it did!

Boat Quay area

This area is where the old shophouses from the colonial days were still preserved and in use,. It has a famous backdrop of juxtaposing skyscrapers and holds the very piece of land that Sir Stamford Raffles – the founder of Singapore – landed in his boat for the first time.

A walk across the bridge spanning the Singapore River and I was in Boat Quay area. This is an entertainment area of restaurants, big bars full of locals and tourists alike that face onto the river and across to the parliament building. The shophouses from 100 years ago have been converted into bars etc and many have small hotels above and down side streets.

The restaurants were on the high end of prices, no doubt due to their location and vista. There were plenty of live fish and crustaceans in huge water tanks on show ready to be freshly plucked out of the water and cooked. If you want night life, here is the area, and while it was a tad touristified and dealing in volume judging by the masses of outdoor tables, the elegant shophouses and river views made up for the excess.

Plaza one area, Singapore

The area immediately behind the Boat Quay area could not be more different. Comprising massive, tall, but usually slender skyscrapers, they dominated the eyeline everywhere you looked. It felt strange to be standing among what were clearly traditional Singapore two storey shophouses yet at my back were 40 storey mega buildings, almost taking out the sunlight.

A walk around this plaza area showed that there were numerous statues representing scenes from the past history of the area before the skyscrapers arrived.  Several modern art sculptures were also placed here next to the Cavenagh Bridge that I used to re-cross the Singapore River. to get to my next spot.

Sir Stamford Raffles Statue, Singapore

So, this is the famous area. At last after all these years I am now standing in the very bit of the river where this man, the founder of Singapore, landed his craft. The area is actually an embankment with railings since modern development has turned it from the riverbank it was to a Business District of mega buildings.

The Statue is quite regal but smaller than I was expecting and that is it. There is no plaque or big memorial and the area is flagstone paved and quite unassuming. Wonder what the fella would think of Singapore today?!

The Arts House

This was the former parliament building and today, unlike before, you can walk right up to its entrance. This arts institution is in a 200-year-old building hosting film festivals, performances & art exhibits. It is grandly Georgian in style from the outside and indeed does resemble a former centre of government. Pop inside for the many ongoing exhibitions and performances. It was not on my list to attend any and the outside was impressive enough.

Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall

The theatre is housed in a dual building. By this I mean that the, again classically European inspired building, is in two halves. On one side is the Theatre and on and the other is the Victoria Concert Hall. Inside the building the shared atrium to the two buildings has been stripped back. It again shows the classical architecture of its period with a new steel beam supported glass roof, clearly made to accommodate the numbers using theses buildings.

National Gallery Singapore

Walk  200 metres further and you are now at the National Gallery Singapore, (click here for website). This area of the city literally has 4 art galleries and exhibition places sitting side by side so if you are the culture-vulture like me this is the area to head for. This Gallery is unique in that it is housed inside what was the former City Hall from 1929 with an extension that used to be the former Supreme Court.

The building is home to more than 9,000 artworks from across Southeast Asia spanning the 19th century to the present. It has a permanent collection , often several alternating exhibitions at once and an art library. To top it all it has 3 amazing  restaurants and a rooftop bar with views of the city.

Singapore Cricket Club

Just across the road is another famous piece of Singapore history. What could be more indicative of Singapore’s old colonial past with the UK than a cricket club building. Yep, Singapore has this exclusive club and right slap bang in the middle of Singapore on prime commercial land is ….. a cricket ground.

The grounds are large and you can enter as a non- member to eat and drink at its up market bar and restaurant, if you want to see the exuberance of a member lifestyle! The building itself from the outside is glorious – very colonial in design – it was  established in 1852 and still today hosts regular social functions & tournaments.

The Merlion

Across the road and at the end of the Esplanade road bridge, is an area that has become synonymous with Singapore. The park here (mostly concrete walkways) has the backdrop of the very grand 1920’s style architecture of the 5 star Fullerton Hotel and the high statue of the Merlion.

The statue gushes water from its mouth into Marina Bay and is possibly the most photographed item in Singapore. Certainly at the time I was here there was a permanent crowd of people waiting to get their place at the front of the promenade to get a selfie or a long distance pic of the Merlion.

The Merlion is the official mascot of Singapore, depicted as a mythical creature with a lion’s head and the body of a fish. Its name combines “mer”, meaning the sea, and “lion”. The fish body represents Singapore’s origin as a fishing village when it was called Temasek, which means “sea town” in Javanese. The lion head represents Singapore’s original name—Singapura—meaning “lion city”. There you have it!

It was placed nearby originally in 1975 but moved to its present position in 2002 when the new nearby Esplanade Drive bridge was built.

Esplanade area

The Esplanade is an area of a park with several war memorials. One is of a patriot who died fighting the Japanese in WW2, another the Indian Army. there are also memorials to a past city benefactor and the Singapore Cenotaph of WW1 and 2. It gives some shade and greenery to what can be hot days and constant skyscraper sights in this city.

Beside it is a quite futuristic looking area with two silver spikey doomed buildings that are the Esplanade Theatre and Mall, office and an outdoor theatre complex. It leads to an outdoor arena that overlooks a floating platform in Marina Bay.

Marina Bay

This is probably the second most photographed area of Singapore and one that many will recognise because of the amazing building shapes here.

From the esplanade there is a modern bridge called The Helix bridge. the design is supposed to represent the human DNA helix (hence its name) and is a superbly futuristically designed structure.

The bridge has a canopy, made of glass and steel mesh that is  incorporated along parts of the inner spiral to provide shade for pedestrians. The bridge has four viewing platforms from which you can get wonderful shots of the bay, Merlion Park and the Singapore skyline.

Just across the bay next to the bridge is the Art Science Museum. It is a design, science & technology exhibition centre and is housed in a distinctive, modern, lotus flower-shaped building that gets everyone’s attention.

The nearby buildings of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel with its triple towers supporting an overhanging roof that incorporates a swimming pool is a marvel of a sight. It seems impossible that the overhang can be supported and is such a different design from any logically shaped building that can be seem in their dozens in Singapore.

Marina Bay Sands Mall

I visit a Mall now and again, usually just to get my retail merchandising hit from my retail manager days and this one was on the list. Yep, full of high end stores that they weirdly insist on writing as shoppes not shops. It is massive and architecturally astounding with its glass and steel curving canopy of a roof.

On several levels, it would take a few hours to go round completely and that is not a few hours I had to spare. Here is the place to do your shopping if retail therapy is needed. I actually found the other end of the Mall from where I entered to be the nicest outdoor area – complete with views of Marina Bay skyscrapers, artwork and palm trees.

Gardens By The Bay

This is one of the most magical places on earth.

It’s difficult to describe it as I know of nothing similar elsewhere. Ok, I’m going to try to describe it anyhow.

It is a series of open-air themed gardens, plush walkways of foliage, open-air amazing art, eco-zones, lakes, two enormous bio-spheres containing plants and trees, and a series of manmade metal trees resembling sci-fi flora from the film Avatar with an aerial skywalk between them. Click here for its website with attractions list and opening times

You can go up the trees and walk a sky platform between the trees full of vines and greenery and at night, huge illuminated dragonflies and insects.

It has fabulous views over the park and towards the Singapore skyline and the futuristic glass and steel domes of the two bio-spheres.

I arrived with the sun shinning but as dusk arrived the whole place came alive with illuminated dragonflies, animated figures, lantern like terraces of houses, boats and animals. You can wander the whole park – it is massive and it is very popular so you do not feel unsafe as there are lots of people – mainly families – around.

Kids love the carton like characters lit up and adults admire the creativity and genius of the effect. The traditional Chinese houses scenically set on the lakes were now lit up with river scenes, boats and images of children watching from the houses windows and doorways. It’s one of a kind.

Each season its illuminations are themed and as I was there at Halloween time there were lots of pumpkin and squash displays, with scarecrows, Hollowed out pumpkins showing illuminated faces were everywhere,

The bio-spheres contain internal collections of flora and fauna from around the world in temperature controlled zones. It hosted alpine plants, desert flora, massive tropical trees, cacti and the world’s biggest indoor waterfall with pondlife. It again had themed attractions (Halloween at present), all so artistically created.

Well, that was me finished for the day. The sun had gone down the lights were on and the kiddies were still running around the park squealing in delight at the lanterns, lit up cartoon characters and the fun of it all. I wearily made my way back towards the mall where the Metro line was waiting , efficiently as ever to whisk me back to my hotel.

Second day in Singapore – three cultures in one!

I had read so much about the ethnic mix of Singapore, how harmoniously they existed side by side and how they each celebrated their uniqueness within the country. Basically, apart from the Europeans who make up the majority of the Christian religion, there are three other groups – Indians (mainly Hindu’s), Malays (mainly Muslims) and Chinese (mainly Buddhists).

Each have settled throughout Singapore but each also have traditionally centred themselves around a certain district and today I was to visit each district. So, first off I travelled to the furthest one from me – Chinatown.

Chinatown, Singapore

The MRT station (Metro) for Chinatown is so easy to find on a map because it is called …. “Chinatown” …. simple! So off I went on my Metro trip on the fabulously clean and efficient trains with just one train change for one stop and I was here.

On exiting Chinatown station you are suddenly aware that you are in a Chinese area. The buildings are colourful shophouses and totally adored with Chinese script, designs and lanterns on a rope crisscrossing the streets from on high. The initial area is covered by a massive glass roof supported on big steel girders  to protect shoppers from the rain and sun and most of the streets are pedestrianised.

Everywhere are restaurants shops, trinket and gift shops but also clothes, food shops, phone stores and tech places  – just to let you know that there is more to buy here than what tourists normally go for.

The area is manned by Chinese shopkeepers and the air is full of Chinese voices. Yep, there are also a lot if tourists from all over the world here but go down some side streets off the beaten main area and they disappear and you are in a real Chinese environment. The area was very busy, and actually busy from people buying, eating and snacking.

I kept looking up at the buildings as they had gone to some effort to give it a definite Chinese feel in coloured roof tiles, wooden shutters and dragons and mystical lion statues everywhere. The higher buildings were so well decorated and a few even snuck in a few modern flower designs into the pastels coloured walls

I had read up about a famous Buddhist Temple here in Chinatown and everyone said it was a must see. It was an easy stroll down the main street and then a small turn left and I would be there, so off I trundled.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

The size of this temple surprised me and you get no advance warning as you literally turn a corner and there suddenly a few metres in front of you is a 5 storey Temple complete with overhanging tiled roofs.

Despite it looking like a near typical Tang Dynasty old Chinese Buddhist  temple it was only built in 2007.

Its exterior is a rich blend of dark red and whites with tiled upward sloping eaves on each level. The interior is very decorative, colourful and sumptuous with again lots of red, and this time gold.

The Temple is so called because it holds a relic of Buddha that was retrieved from his funeral pyre in India – his left canine tooth.  The relic is stored on the fourth floor and although only Monks are allowed into the room you can see it from a viewing platform outside.

The Buddha Tooth Relic is housed in a giant stupa weighing 3,500 kilos and made from 320 kilograms of gold.

There is an interesting museum on the third floor

You can go on a free guided tour of the whole building on Saturdays but you must sign up in advance at least a few weeks before. I was not here on a Saturday but have attached here a link for you to sign up if you want to do this in advance – click here.

I was only here to see the ground floor, which alone was quite extensive, as here is the actual temple/prayer area. Fascinating designs abound and as I entered the prayer area I was astounded to find that a ceremony was already in place and there were hundreds of worshippers seated and chanting with the monks.

Periodically the lead monk would recant for a while and periodically the audience would join in a chant. I stood back and watched in amazement as the ceremony unfolded, chanting alternated, various people performing various parts of the service came and went and worshippers wandered in and out slowly.

It was very solemn and quite mesmerizing as the repetitive chanting become somewhat hypnotic to an uninitiated like me. I was allowed to video the scene and discreetly take photos.

Worshippers outside and at the entrance were bringing glowing joss sticks of incense and bowing and praying and inserting the sticks into the small pit. It was exciting to see an actual ceremony taking place – for what I would not know – but I left feeling honoured that I had been allowed to watch it unfold for 30 minutes.

Needless to say the interior of the prayer room was stunning in its opulence and design.

Just to show how religiously diverse Singapore is I noticed that as I left the Temple there was a Christian Church just ahead on a corner even though this was Chinatown. As I made my way back to the MRT, as the next visit was to Little India, I passed a large Hindu Temple, which I popped in to see. Further along was a Muslim Mosque – all located with a stone’s throw of each other with worshippers happily going in and out and passing by each other.

A true show of religious harmony in action!

Little India, Singapore 

I needed to get to the area of town called called Little India as this was where traditionally many Indians  (Hindus) live in a large community. I looked for my MTR station which also coincidently happens to be called “Little India”! The station was only 3 stops further down the purple line from Chinatown

The walk from Little India to the main street was noticeably and unusually dirty for Singapore. The Indian street traders did not seem to have the same standards as the Chinese traders and rubbish and unwanted fruit and veg was discarded into the street to rot and accumulate. There were workers actually performing tasks on the street instead of inside shops so a bit of negotiating my route around them was needed.

I suddenly felt I was in a less cared for area by the traders despite it still being Singapore. I guess I wanted authenticity and so here it was. However when I got onto the main street things went back to the standards I knew of Singapore. This time the shops were heavily geared towards textile and clothes selling and there were numerous gold and jewellery stores.

Again a difference of emphasis between cultures.

Phone and repair shops were in evidence but what particularly struck me was the street decorations. They were very well arranged and the pretty swirling patterns in pastel blues and pinks stood out well in groupings over the streets. A festival was obviously happening I guess – unless it is always decorated like this! I did come by this way one night and noticed that the street decorations were now also lit up.

The main road did have heavy traffic running through it so here it was a question of crossing the roads at the crossings to seek out what was on the other side and the area felt very much an Indian centre.

Again like the Chinese faces in Chinatown, here were Indian faces, scripts and designs on buildings. You do feel like you are in a part of India and this time there were much less tourists than Chinatown.

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple

On the main road in Little India stood the building I had come to see. This is a well known Hindu Temple that serves the local worshippers. The outside was strange as it had a big white tarpaulin covering what seemed to be a makeshift roof for the entrance walkway before you enter the Temple. It seemed shabby and at first obscured what should be a wonderful view up to the richly embellished area above the entrance.

Hundreds of small intertwining figurines and animals decorated the roof and it sloped up several metres in a terraced effect. Certainly different to anything else I had seen in Singapore.

I approached and was wary if I would be allowed to go in. The Temple was very busy. Busy to the point that shoe space was all used up and shoes (you take off shoes to enter the temple) had been discarded wherever there was space left near the entrance.

I watched a while and saw a couple of tourists enter so thought it must be ok. I discarded my shoes nearby and entered into what was a noisy smoky ceremony happening.

I was fascinated as this was so different to the Chinese Buddhist ceremony that I had just seen. Two ceremonies in one day – I was striking it rich!

I stepped to one side so as not to be in the huge crowd that was chanting and semi singing to a drum beat. Many were making offering of incense burners and there appeared to be food offering and flowers arranged on various surfaces around the Temple haphazardly. People were sitting in some places , looking like they had been there all day as they were dishevelled.

Others were seemingly waiting for something to happen expectedly. Others were joining in the mass chanting, swirling around the floor and crammed in together around a central person in a loincloth making the noises. Another monk came out and did more chanting and the crowd thronged around him for a while.

I could see that other monks seemed to be preparing something inside a small semi-obscured chamber that seemed holy. Again they were bare-chested and loin-clothed or in robes. I just stood and watched for ages trying to work out what was happening and what people were doing.

Unfortunately I couldn’t work it out and people were entering and leaving the temple at will so again that did not give me a clue. I got several smiles from worshippers who were only too happy to have me there and some were a little surprised but ignored me.

It was very, very interesting despite me understanding nothing about what was happening and again I felt honoured to be allowed to witness it all. After seeing what I felt was the main event I slowly made my way back to the entrance and retrieved my shoes.

I went to the side of the building to get better pics of that fabulously ornate entrance roof area and left with the interior noise still bellowing away.

Next stop was to be the Malay (Muslim) area called Kampong Glam – I wonder what I may stumble across there!

Kampong Glam

Conveniently, only another two stops away, was the next MRT station I needed to get to, to visit this site. Having not long ago spent a month travelling around the Gulf States, I felt that of all the areas, this one may be the one that I would have a bit more knowledge about and recognise more things in the Islamic faith.

One of the main attractions here is the Sultan Mosque. However the whole area is again a restored section of traditional shophouses, again brightly coloured and maintained exquisitely. The atmosphere these shophouses give makes the area feel at once oriental but also Muslim.

The shops now sport Arabic script and Arabic names appear on the signs. The foods and clothing on show have a Arabic slant and the faces are now more middle eastern but predominantly Malay.

Sultan Mosque

The mosque is definitely built in an Arab Islamic style but there also feels a slightly more colonial-oriental feel in its colourings and window arch styles.

The beautiful golden dome stands out from afar and you can almost orientate yourself if you look up and can see it or the minaret in another part of Kampong Glam.

The first Mosque was built here in 1824 by the then Sultan of the area of Singapore. Sir Stamford Raffles actually donated a large sum to help in its building.

One hundred years later, in 1924 most of the Mosque was replaced by a larger one – the present day one – in order for it to accommodate 5000 worshippers.

When I visited the mosque, it was very quite and at first I could not see anyone in it. I assumed it was thus closed and looked as best I could inside from afar and then approached to take a few more pictures

An attendant nearby noticed my apprehension and beckoned me forward and assured me that I would be able to enter.

I hadn’t planned on going inside any Mosques today and was wearing long shorts which are sometimes not allowed. I pointed out my shorts and said can I still go inside like this. I think the attendant realised my respect and concern that I wasn’t appropriately dressed and produced a long cover-up wrap that is often used for these events.

He tied it around my waist so that it covered my legs and gave me a beaming smile and assured I was ok to go in now. Such a welcome and he even gave me a little history talk on the mosque.

I got my photos and felt the solemnity and peace at having the whole mosque to myself. The interior colours of green, white  and gold were unusual as I have never seen this combination set of colours before inside a Mosque.

The exterior is very grand and majestic and that gold dome was a wonder of style that really shone in the sun..

Malay Heritage Museum

This building, housed in what looks like a large villa, traces the Malay history of the inhabitants of Singapore. It also gives an interesting account of Singapore’s past and often holds travelling exhibitions. The large flat pond with fountains at the front of the house and gardens is often an attraction in the heat of the day, especially among kiddies who love the streaming fountains.

Third day in Singapore

So my days were coming to an end and to be honest there was so much more I wanted to see here.

Often I was having to make do in just seeing the outside of eg a Museum as I didn’t have the required 3 hours to visit it fully. I knew the most important places that I wanted to see and was content with them – there’s always the chance of a revisit at sometime in the future.

So, today was going to be a beach day …… beach I hear you say ! Well yes, Singapore actually has many big beaches (actually they are on Sentosa island connected to Singapore by rail/road – remember Singapore is an island itself.

Sentosa Island

I had no idea what to expect here. Is it a Disney-like spectacle, is it jungle and natural sandy beaches, is it built up ? Well, actually – all three.

The island has a protected wooded  area that can be whizzed over by cable car so there is a huge area of green canopy od forests. It does have beaches.

Small sometimes and dotted with palm trees with a backdrop of service buildings i.e. bars, restaurants, surf schools etc but not really high rise and quite fitting for families and friends to relax on.

The island does have large areas of built up hotel complexes, usually high end and low rise with a touristy, hotel/entertainment/games area but it is kept quite secluded and is aimed at family enjoyment.

It works well as a combination of all three of these and you can chose either and not feel encroached on by the others.

Don’t forget the two massive golf courses that take up a lot of the land here too.

The island is connected to Singapore by a monorail. Its an experience in itself as it travels over the short expanse of water between the two islands and has two further stops on the island itself.

The pink colour of the carriages does give it a slight Disneyesque feel but the stations are again a typical marvel of modern, clean efficiency that is the standard in Singapore.

I took it from the mainland, across the waterway, through the day trippers tourist area and ended at the beach where I got off. The views out to sea are just not what I was imagining.

You see hundreds or cargo ships moored out at sea and even parts of the distant docklands. Passing container ships are a delight to watch, wondering where they are going in the distance.

The beaches feel man-made and are semi-cicular but work so well with small lagoons off-shore, jetties (lots of water and jet ski opportunities here) and loads of palm trees actually on the beach.

I noticed it was predominantly families and young couple here and occasionally there were more group and crowd orientated bars etc.

It felt up market and the bars and snack places were more upmarket, I feel, to deliberately avoid the unruly, cheap masses.

I walked from the beach station along the beach road (there is a tram that links all the beaches so you don’t have to walk but the sun was shining and it was a cooler day.

I walked along two beaches on my way to my destination, felt the water and sand under my toes and took in the sun …. I felt I was on holiday and not in a mega city environment.

Cable Car on Sentosa Island

I finished my beach walk at Siloso station and boarded a cable car gondola for my trip over the trees. I heard that this cable car system can be very busy with queues at peak times but today it was a breeze. I got on straight away.

The cars hold about 6 people and slowly fly you up and over the huge green canopy below.

The journey is made in silence as up here there is no noise apart from the occasional squawk or call of the birds in the tree canopy.

To one side you get a sight of the forest and even to the mainland skyscrapers in the distance.

You also get some views across the island and out to sea. The moored up container ships now came into view much more and there were even more than I could see from the beach. They spread for miles out to sea and did make me wonder why they are there and not moored up at the docksides.

There is now really only one thing left that I haven’t done in Singapore.

I have left it as the last place I go, as I want to leave here with yet another amazing memory of this fantastic city – yep I still say it is my favourite in the world.

It is probably the most famous setting in Singapore and when I tell you it involves an hotel, a colonial past and a drink, you will easily have guessed what I am referring to.

This part of the review is a little different, as after Sentosa island I went back to my hotel and packed ready for my flight out to Bali, Indonesia the next day.

For this last part of my review of Singapore, you have to imagine that I have returned from all of my trips around S E Asia and am spending a night back at Singapore.

I have just got off the train from Kuala Lumpur after travelling through the jungle and made my way to my hotel. I stayed this time at the five/6 Hotel Splendour in the Kallang area of Singapore. A great choice and so much better than my previous stay at Bright Star nearby.

Five/6 Hotel is a weird name I know, but it was really good value, with a stylish room, quiet and great wifi. I’d definitely be back to stay here again.

So back to my last night in Singapore.

Raffles Hotel

This is a colonial-style luxury hotel in Singapore. It was established by Armenian hoteliers, the Sarkies Brothers, in 1887. The hotel was named after British statesman Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the British coloniser of Singapore.

It started as a privately owned beach house built in the early 1830s and the road facing it in those days was actually the beachfront. It underwent big remodelling later and was first a hotel of 10 rooms that opened in 1878.

Over the next 20 years it expanded to 75 rooms and in 1899 the present main front building as we see it today was completed, with the region’s first electric powered lights and ceiling fans. History lesson over!

With this history and its high class reputation I knew I had to be well dressed to get in! I dressed up well in my only smart trousers I bought for such an event, pressed shirt and proper shoes. I had a fear of being denied entry to one of the most up market and famous hotels in the world so dressed to fit in.

I arrived and was greeted by the famous Sikh uniformed hotel concierge and I asked for directions to the Long Bar for the famous drink. He was so friendly, not haughty or stuffy as I was expecting and happily directed me.

When I visited Singapore the hotel was undergoing extensive refurbishments so the pics don’t do it justice. I have seen the photos of the hotel now that it has fully reopened after its multi-million pound make-over and it looks even more stunning.

The famous Singapore Sling

I headed for the bar, took my seat and ordered the cocktail that this hotel is famous for – the Singapore Sling. I was hesitant at ordering it despite its fame as it is gin based and I do not like gin but, hey ho, here we go, it has just got to be tried.

The actual recipe has gin, cherry brandy, curacao, benedictine, grenadine with orange, pineapple and lime juice. Quite a mix!

When it arrived I gingerly tasted it and it was actually really fruity and great, no real gin taste as I guess that the other ingredients were masking it.

It was invented around 1915 by a Raffles Hotel bartender for ladies to order as a cover drink as people wouldn’t think it contained alcohol (a taboo in those days).

I was served a hessian bag of peanuts in their shells and was amazed to find that you are actively encouraged to crack them open and throw the shells on the floor – making quite a mess. I looked around and indeed that is what is done.

Shocking in such a place but that is the tradition and who am I to argue with tradition. My normal sense of tidiness made me keep looking for something to put the shells in but no, on the floor they must go.

I love peanuts and so when my second Sling was brought over (they were so good I just had to have another), more peanuts were brought and I merrily devoured these.

Final goodbye to Singapore

So, it’s the my final night of my month long tour of S E Asia – 7 countries, 10 locations, 2 intercity/country bus rides, an international train ride …. and a Singapore Sling …. and it was to be spent in my favourite city in the world!

I’ve loved the whole journey but Singapore stands out by a mile. It is such a city of diversity, beauty and harmony.

Religions, cultures, races, foods, architecture, mindsets all intermingle here and produce such a vibrant and cosmopolitan range that it is indescribable. It is a place I really wished I could live in and I can’t wait till opportunity brings me back to this enchanting city/island again.

Sept 2017.