Marrakesh, Morocco
The land of hippies, tie dyed shirts and music …… oh, wait ….. that was the 60’s …. defo not like that now. The famous central market area is … well just that and, quite frankly, failed to impress as it was generally a mess and full of overactive street sellers. Nice to see however, and at night loads of tourists frequented the open air restaurants, so it’s clearly popular with many. Loved the Main Mosque with its green gardens and stylishly tiled pavement. For me I shall always remember Marrakesh for how green and full of pretty parks and gardens it is – how do they keep them so well watered ? The city walls, ancient tombs, beautiful Palaces, Majorelle’s stunning, colourful gardens and a sprawling Medina all impressed me.
So this is it …….. the beginning of an awfully big adventure (to use a quote)!
So I have quit my job, gathered the finances to do a year off, planned this trip, paid the travel bills, got my insurance and have arrived …. scary or what.
In my first trip, of hopefully many over the next year, I am spending time in Morocco. I have flown into Marrakesh to see what the vibe is about the hippie world (or did I miss that in the 60s, lol). I’ll experience my first trip to Africa, experience my first touring in a foreign land and generally see if I like this and can even survive it!
My Moroccan venture was actually a 3 city tour by train from Marrakesh where I flew into. I then went by train to Casablanca and then onwards, again by train to Rabat. Click on the name of the city here to see my individual city reviews. Click here for Moroccan trains service.
Hotel transfer is best in Marrakesh.
I arrived at Marrakesh airport and had chickened out of haggling for a taxi and arranged a hotel transfer through Expedia to take me to my hotel. I did this as the price for a shared transfer with other fliers going to other hotels in Marrakesh was so cheap. As this was my first big solo trip. I also wanted to ease myself gently into the self-sufficiency game.
I’m sure I’ll pick up how to haggle, get to know what prices should be and how to get airports taxis or public transport in the future, as I get more used to this. There was no public transport in Marrakesh that was easy to understand anyway, so I guess the transfer was kinda logical anyhow !
Got talking to a couple in the minibus to the hotel who were from Cyprus and South Africa and they quickly gave me the general lowdown or what to see and visit in their own countries during the 20 mins drive to teh hotel. These places are both on my list so it was helpful to know.
For this trip I had opted to stay in a riad in the old Medina area of Marrakesh. Something different I thought, and I was looking forward to finding out what riad style accomodation would be like
What’s a riad?
Well it’s a hotel, but Moroccan style i.e. it is a large house built around a central open courtyard with the rooms going off the courtyard.
It sounded fun and as I wanted to immerse myself into difference, I chose this over a conventional style hotel. Also there were few conventional, large hotels in the ancient Medina area, so the options on accommodation was limited anyhow.
Did I make a good choice?… yes and no.
• Positives are that in the Medina you are near to many of the sights and there are walk-through old alleys and small roads, which emanate old values, traditions, and way of life. No cars and big roads to cross, no having to pay for taxis (public transport was not really an option in Marrakech) and you see how many locals live.
Restaurants are often nearby and prices can also be cheaper than a 50 bed tower block style hotel in a flash, built up tourist area, which is the case here, away from the centre.
• Negatives are that it can be noisier – locals shouting in the streets under your window sometimes. Having to pass street sellers every day who can be overwhelming in their sales techniques. There also the fact that you get woken at 6am and every 3-4 hours afterwards by the call to prayer from the nearby Mosques. That was a huge startled wake-up for me when I heard it the first morning. I had no idea what it was at 5:30am and actually thought it was an emergency warning alarm till I heard the sing-song nature of the calling.
Got that every morning but fell back to sleep when it finished …. an experience!
You have to carry your suitcase through the pedestrianised often unkept rough walkways as cars cannot enter – not good if you have a big suitcase but I travel very light and had a small hand luggage case.
Riad rooms usually come off the courtyard which usually leads to the front door so sometimes guests have to walk past your courtyard windows when they enter/leave – not good at 1am when a rowdy bunch come back or you get woken by early birds trundling suitcases past your window.
Would I do it again …. probably not….. I would opt for a quieter, conventional hotel (they would usually be in the modern outer areas) to get the calmness but check they have a shuttle to get to the centre.There are a few convential hotels that are near enough to walk into the Medina area ….. the 5 star La Mamounia would fit this if you can afford their prices!
Jemaa el-Fna Market Square
The big thing to see, I had heard, was the central square/market of Jemaa el-Fna in central Marrakesh.
And it is just that – a huge, irregular shaped open area full of market stalls selling everything from Moroccan fast food, clothes, souvenirs, household goods, crafts and home necessities.
There are displays by snake charmers, horse drawn carriages ready for hire, and a scattering of restaurants in the square and on the fringes.There are a few larger conventional style hotels here too that usually have a bar/terrace higher up overlooking the square and are busy at night with the tourist trade.
The market is very busy at night, not only for food and drinks but the traders carry on into the night as well. I get the uniqueness of a big open air market and nightlife too but I was actually disappointed at how ordinary it was.
I've seen many better and more engaging markets around the world. Also, the persistent, dare I say overwhelming, actions of the street hawkers trying to sell me tat and tourist trinkets did get on my nerves after the 50th one doing it in the square. So, after seeing it once each at daytime and night time, I avoided it.
Everyone has their own opinion and friends said they loved the market. It certainly is a big crowd-puller and has some interesting buildings on its edges but it’s not high on my list as a memorable part of the city.
Tip - the tourist police station is here, so if the unfortunate happens and you need their help, here is the place to get to quickly.
Koutoubia Mosque
One of the sights that I did love was the nearby Koutoubia Mosque and its stunning minaret – apparently the tallest in Marrakesh. The view towards it from the new paved plaza in front is wonderful.
Its beige colour matches surrounding buildings and gives it an even more ancient air - it was built in 1199 but has large 15th century Moorish style additions. As a non-Muslim I wasn't allowed in, pity as I ached to see if it was as beautiful inside as out.
It is set in lush gardens, with springs and water channels and fruit trees.
The lush green gardens of Marrakesh.
On one side of the Mosque is the Parc Lalla Hasna. Its grounds of tree lined walkways, ornamental fountains and clipped hedgerows are beautiful. The whole area is so green, despite the hot, dry climate.
The grounds are a lovely place to rest on the benches and take it in. One side of the gardens looks across to the 5 star deluxe Mamounia hotel. The smaller Elkoutoubia Garden has a more geometric design, again with a water feature and shady walkways.
It surprised me that there was so much green vegetation and water, in what is a semi-desert area, I even saw oranges growing wild on the trees - these areas have been so well maintained. Either gardens give great views to the Mosque and the minaret which at night is illuminated.
The next day was going to be a long walk through Marrakesh. Weather was ideal, not hot, with a cooling breeze and sunny ......... so the sunscreen went on in readiness. I worked out it would take me about 3 hours to walk the route including stops for pictures and picking up on anything extra of interest that came my way.
I went from the Koutoubia Mosque along Avenue Mohammad V on what was a wide and new pavement area.
I passed more luscious gardens and I went into The Cyber park and was surprised again at how well set out it was, with luscious greenery and some modern artwork.
It was stunningly peaceful and I spent a while walking around and eventually sitting down here, taking advantage of the peace and tranquillity.
For me, I will always remember Marrakesh for its green, palm filled and beautiful parks...how do they do it?
To my right as I walked along the avenue, I saw Marrakesh Town Hall. A modern building in a beige stone, old design surrounded by loads of palm trees and again set in green gardens. Further along you reach Bab Nkob which is a replica gateway connecting the city walls and providing a beautiful view as an entrance into the city.
Marrakesh fortified city walls.
Turn right at the gate towers and this was an area I had come to visit on my way to the Yves St Laurent Villa museum.
Here are perfectly restored walls from the fortifications of the city. It is possible, with a few detours to walk round the whole of the city walls and towers as they are so complete still. Admittedly it would take many hours as they are extensive and encompass the whole of the huge Medina.
Now, was a 15 mins walk with the towers and huge walls to my right leading me along the road and curving its way around the medina.
I couldn't believe how big and extensive these walls were and so well preserved.
I had not expected this sight, I never thought of Marrakesh as a fortified walled city. It is worth selecting a section of the city walls, at some point, and just walk along the outside (not inside) on what are often decent pavements, to get an idea of their grandeur.
It was here that I stopped at a small shop next to the big bus station - Gare Routiere - to buy water as the sun was beginning to take its toll in the open.
At the roundabout, further along, I turned down Boulevard Allal Al fassi and at the crossroads, turned left.
My destination is along this road on a right turn called, funnily enough, Rue Yves Laurent!
Majorelle Gardens.
These Marrakesh Majorelle Gardens, (click here for further info), are unique, botanical, landscape gardens set with massive cacti, lush vegetation and bamboo plots. It is a myriad of exotic trees, buildings now housing small museums, water fountains and channels, a pavilion and garden artwork.
Set in 2.5 acres (it was originally 10 acres). it is full of bright blues and greens and is a wonderous place.
The name Majorelle was given to the blue cobalt colour originally used by Berbers and is a dominant colour theme here.
The gardens were created after the French artist Jacques Majorelle bought up land and created this oasis, eventually opening them to the public in 1947.
After his death they fell into disrepair, but along came the French fashion designer Yves St Laurent, who bought them up and recreated an artistic complex that is a major cultural and tourist attraction of Marrakesh today.
Yves St Laurent died in 2008 in Paris and his ashes are scattered in the gardens. There is a memorial column arranged in one part of the garden as his legacy
I absolutely loved these gardens, and the blue cubist villa,that was built here in the 1930s, is so striking .... this is a must see place !
Outside here were horse and carriage buggies nearby for the tourists to catch. That seemed a bit cheesy, so I hailed a cab and went back to the main square from where it was a 5 min walk to my hotel.
Second day here and I have been mightily impressed by two of the three big sights .... wonder what tomorrow will bring!
Marrakesh Medina
Next day I had another big walk planned, again around the Medina to see some Mosques, tombs, Palaces and get near enough to the Royal Place to hopefully see something of it - you can't go in !
My journey starts at an ancient outer gateway called Bab Er Robb adjacent to the Medina's fortified walls. Its name means "Gate of the figs and raspberry drink" .... strange but there you have it.
It is near a much more famous gateway, Bab Agnaou, that goes through the inner walls, just one of the nineteen entrances. It leads through various other archways to arrive at a small street that leads to the road running around the big Mosque. From here, I go to the right and up to a small site entrance.
Saadian Tombs.
Here are the famous Saadian Tombs, beautifully decorated and housed in three separate buildings. It is essentially a Mausoleum for sixty members the family of Sultan Ahmad Al-Mansur and were only rediscovered in 1912, despite being constructed in 1603.
You cannot go in the buildings but there are viewpoints into them from outside and there are small gardens and a small exhibition here.
Moulay El Yazid Mosque.
Afterwards I walked outside and alongside the huge walls of the Moulay El Yazid Mosque with its high tower in front of me. This Mosque dates from 1190 and was originally a Royal Mosque.
Its walls are decorated with arches on a flat background, some open, some not and the eaves have triangular decorations. It is impressively decorated and its setting with ornamental black streetlights and scattered palm trees was a so picturesque
Unfortunately like most Mosques in Morocco, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter, so I never got to see the interior ...... I was however content with my exterior view of the tower and the passing carriages.
I took a break here at the perfectly situated and enticingly Moorish styled Café El Andalusiya opposite. Sitting outside with a coffee and a plate of assorted Moroccan mini pastries was so relaxing. Horses and carts trotted by, and the sound of the call to prayer filling the air, was magical.
From here, it was a continuation of my walk along the street and through the archway at the end of the road and a right turn. Along this street, Rue Dar Daou and Rue Tougma I saw several unusual designs of buildings.
I wasn't sure if they were new designs but carefully done to look older or older restored ones. Anyhow they were very artistic and in keeping with the row of small shops, cafes and small guests houses in this area.
I eventually arrived at the Place des Ferblantiers, a large open plan square with stores around the edges selling craft wares, gifts, tin ware and coloured pottery.
This square was stylishly more tourist up-market. It was also bedecked with high-end looking and more traditionally styled restaurants, that were quite busy. I noted that these were open in the eve and not too far from my hotel, so I was tempted to come back later.
The next place to visit was off this square through the entrance in the high fortified wall.
El Badi Palace, Marrakesh.
The Palace is today in semi ruins and the forecourt still shows the layout of some of the original 330 plus rooms.
There is not a lot to see here but the massive courtyard filled with small trees and huge pond gives an indication of how opulent this palace once was.
Badii Palace was completed in 1593 by the same Sultan that built the previously seen Moulay El Yazid Mosque, down the road, that I had admired while enjoying its vista with my coffee and cake.
The Sultan is also buried in the Tomb's Mausoleum I had just visited, so it all seems to connect to a period of extensive building by this ruler.
There is a small museum here and an old wooden Minbar from El Katuobia Mosque in central Marrakesh.
One of the best things here is to go up onto the walls, via the steps and entrance, in a far corner near the Café.
A walk along a part of these walls gives you views over the rooftops and a sense of its position in Marrakesh.
Notice the many nests that have been built here by the storks.
Now walk back out of the entrance and across to the other righthand corner of the square you came in on. Then go around the corner you are on and along a road of shops on the right-hand side of the road. This will end up at the site of the next visit.
Bahia Palace
The entrance here is not so obvious and is at the end of a wide tree lined lane with high terracotta coloured walls.
This is a Palace of some 160 rooms, but the vast majority of them are off-limits to the public. However, the ones you can visit are beautiful.
It is very much a coloured, geometric-tiled Moorish style of building. It's decorated arches, vibrant colours, fountained courtyards with small planted plots were captivating.
It was cool after the heat of walking in the mostly open air Badii Palace and the intricate patterned ceilings and views through gold barred windows was more what I had in mind for a Moroccan Palace.
The colonnaded walkways with rooms leading off and the courtyard with views of nearby palm trees tops was picturesque and when the call to prayer was emitted from a nearby Mosque it took me back in time!
Miaara Jewish Cemetery.
Ok, call me macabre but nearby was a place I wanted to visit. It was the Miaara Jewish cemetery. Dating from the 16th Century it is known as the largest Jewish cemetery in Morocco, right next to the Mellah - or Jewish quarter of Marrakesh.
Its area is large, although the Muslim cemetery next door is about 8 times the size of this one.
It is still in use today although nowadays the Jewish population of Marrakesh is only around 220 people down from the thousands before when Marrakesh was a huge Jewish Pilgrimage site.
Entry was by donation at the little office at the entrance, attended by the polite caretaker, who also offers you a skullcap to be worn in respect for the site.
I have heard that now there is a small entrance charge instead. There are interesting photos and descriptions on the walls of a little reception area written in Hebrew, along with the epitaphs on the tombs and dedications.
Unfortunately, I don't read Hebrew but took a few pics of the more interesting ones for my Hebrew reading friends back home to explain to me their significance.
It is so big, with little shade from the sun, so I walked the more interesting area of the oldest section, which is very compact with little space between the graves and well worn inscriptions. There are several large mausoleum type structures in a few areas and I believe these are for the Rabbis and eminent families.
Most grave inscriptions are in Hebrew but I did see some in English.
It was here I finished my sightseeing for the day, knowing that my hotel was a short walk back through the Medina.
My last day was a relax day as I had seen all I really wanted but I had a few hours to kill before my train to Casablanca in the afternoon.
Royal Palace area.
I spent teh begining of teh next day wandering around the area and gardens in front of the Royal Palace - you can't see much of the palace itself as it is behind high walls.
In fact, when I tried to take some photos in the area the sentry guards yelled at me that I couldn't. That seemed strange as there was no security risks, as I was taking photos of the gardens and people around me. I complied when in their sight and took a few when they had gone!
I saw a gateway to the left of the Palace walls and people were coming and going so I went in. I found it was full of wide alleys, old buildings and was actually a route into the Medina area and a left turn to the Rue de la Kasbah. Here there were lots of workshops, small garages, local homes etc and there was a real local work feel.
I did get a few looks, as I don't think they were used to seeing tourists in a "local" area but that's what I love doing - to see real life in the places I visit. The road leads on to an area of local cafes and then heads towards the Moulay El Yazid Mosque.
There was a little café that I noticed had a roof top terrace that must have great views of the Kasbah area - pic here shows it so try it out.
My travel by train from Marrakesh to Casablanca.
My onward journey to Casablanca was to be done by train, (click here for Moroccan trains info). I wanted to see the countryside and see how locals travel, so this was to be an adventure in itself!
Marrakesh train station is about a 30 mins walk from e.g. Katuobia Mosque and is actually a nice walk to see the suburb area and a see how the locals live.
It is initially along palm fringed Avenue Mohammad V to the big 16 Novembre Plaza where the Central Post Office is. From here take a left turn onto the wide Avenue Hassan II and its then a direct walk along this road of residential apartments and shops, to arrive at the front of the station, Really easy to follow with good pavements and really safe!
You know me – I walk everywhere when possible and I actually enjoyed this walk.
Cheap train travel.
The station is actually quite small inside but the ticket counters are to one side and clearly marked and I got a first-class ticket (the difference in price was minimal to second class) on the day.
The trains take 2hrs 40 mins and costs between £8-16 depending on which train and class you travel in. I heard that a coach is about 1 hour longer but a few pounds cheaper, but can’t vouch for the quality of the ride or coach.
At the station it was dead easy, walk up to the counter, buy a ticket to Casablanca (they speak English luckily and the ticket was so cheap compared to the UK), wait for train, check departures board for platform, get on comfy train and we are away. Why did I assume this was going to be harder than it was …. Simple!
Finally on my first trip across Morocco and the fun starts !
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Feb 2017.
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That must’ve been such an exciting but anxious time when you’re solo traveling for the first time! Marrakech is one of those places that looks so amazing, with lots of history behind it, but I’ve heated lots of mixed reviews on visiting this place as a solo traveler. But I’m glad to see that one can travel to Marrakech and have a relatively good time!
Happy to say that I went with trepidation – my first tour of a country – but came back envigoarated and wanted more. Marrakeash is fine for solo travellers, I felt safe. I noticed females get picked on more by the overzealous and often agressive street sellers. I also saw confident females politely rebuff them when they became too much – good for them!. Maybe the insistent hawkers are a Marrakesh thing, as Ive not seen it so heavy in any of the other 72 countries I’ve visited. (Egypt may be the exception!).
The best country to visit! I am yet to go to Morocco. I cannot wait for the day that I actually do! Thank you for covering this.
When you get to Marrakesh let me know what you think.It seems to be a place that divides many between the love or hate it. I found myself in the middle as I saw both sides.
I have always wanted to visit Morrocco but as a solo female traveller I’m a bit hesitant. Congrats to you for embarking on your first solo trip. I’m not good at batering either and in fact refuse to do it. It’s unfortunate that you aren’t allowed in the mosque unless you’re Muslim. I love observing different religions. I’m excited to follow more of your solo journey.
I saw little of the issues that seem to plague the city’s reputation against solo females, but then I’m not a solo female so maybe it wasn’t obvious. I definitely cant barter – usually because I have no idea of what the price should be but also I rarely buy souvenirs or trinkets anyhow. There was a shop that meticulously had all its items with a price on them (at good prices too!) and the tourists were flocking to it. The two shops next door where bartering was usual were empty ….. hopefully lesson learned.
We have long wanted to visit Morocco and Marrakesh is most definitely one of the cities we would like to see. Yes, the first thing that comes to mind is hippies, so it was nice to see how things have changed. I didn’t realise it was a fortified city. Attractions that particularly appeal are the Majorelle Gardens, Saadian Tombs and El Badi Palace. Love the decorations in the Bahia Palace, they are exactly how I imagined the architecture to be. We sometimes visit cemeteries when we are travelling – they are often very interesting. We are crap at haggling and would find the street hawkers frustrating. We would definitely have done the hotel transfer, especially on arrival while we were still getting our bearings!
The city walls seem to get very little mention in guidebooks yet to me they were so attractive. The city is full of places to visit however and I would have loved to see more and experienced the food and drink more here. I hate bartering and never do it, but then I also rarely need to except to buy food.
Like you, I wasn’t expecting to see so much greenery in a desert city like Marrakesh. But Parc Lalla Hasna and Elkoutoubia Garden are so lush and beautiful! Maybe there are some underground water sources or something. The cacti at Majorelle Gargens are nice, too, and I especially love that cobalt blue. I can’t wait to visit myself someday!
Yep, the city is remarkably green. As you say, maybe the have some underground water source. The Majorelle Gardens are splendid and for me was a wow moment to see the amount and variety of foliage in this city.
I love your honest feedback about the riad! Might be a bit overwhelming for me to have that every day. The square at night looks really lively and exciting. The fortified walls do look quite impressive to walk around. Sounds like there is a lot to do in Marrakesh! I’d love to spend more time in Morocco.
The walls are impressive and actually took me by surprise as they seem to get very little promotion for such a large attraction. There is definitely a lot to do inMarrakesh and a visit back there to see a few more places would be on the cards for me.
Excellent post with deep and insightful guidance on Marrakech. Jemaa el-Fna Market Square looks fantastic and I would love to try the food there. Reasonable train cost too. I hope to explore this place some day!
Worth seeing this city and I would definitely recommend adding in another location. Morocco has seriously improved its infrastructure and the train system there is now quite modern and easy to use.
Morocco is one of the top places on my list. I’ve wanted to go for years ever since my friend came back from a trip and raved about it. She just went back this week and now made me even more jealous. The riad looks interesting and I would likely opt for it as an experience but good to know some of the downsides to that type of accommodation too. The gardens would be my first stop, so pretty. How do you not just reach up and grab oranges!! Great intro to Morocco, excited to read about the rest of your travels there
The temptation to pluck oranges was there believe me, but I believe in only leaving footprints behind and not disturbing anything when visiting these locations. The Majorelle Gardens are so unique and just must be on anyone’s list to see in the city.
Marrakesh is one of my favorite cities in Morocco, although, of course, a bit touristy. But I was blown away by its architecture, markets, and food. You have compiled an excellent guide to this city, with precious tips on how to get around and what to see. I like Jemaa el-Fna Market Square despite the tourist hustle and bustle. Koutoubia Mosque is excellent architecture, and I also really enjoyed Majorelle Gardens.
Glad you liked Marrakesh, it can be a bit of a marmite taste city – you like it or hate it. I really wanted to go inside the Koutoubia Mosque but non- Muslims are denied entry. Pity as I ve heard it is wonderful inside.
You were pretty brave to chose Marrakesh as your first destination on your first solo trip. The haggling and harassment would have put me off big time and probably intimidated me so much that I’d never left the hotel room. Thanks for your honesty and feedback on centrally located riads vs traditional hotels and the markets. Like you I’d be more drawn to the gardens and many palaces, each looks more enchanting than the previous one. How do you feel about this first trip today?
Carolin | Solo Travel Story
The harassment was annoying, especially as it was my first experience of it so intensely on what was my first large solo trip. Today I take it as par for the course and deal with it much better. This trip was a real eye opener for me as it proved to me that I had an inner confidence and organisational ability that I doubted. I actually really enjoyed the trip and thus it spurred me on to commence travel blogging.
As soon as I clicked the link, I was already singing the song!
Lovely post, Barry; I can only imagine the anxiety of quitting your job and heading off on a big trip. I’ve never been to Morocco, although it’s on the list. I’ll wait until we’re fully located in Spain, as it’s 4 hours from Malaga on the ferry.
The gardens really took my fancy; they look so pretty and well-maintained. The mosaics in the Bahia Palace are also breathtaking!
How did you fare with the street sellers? My parents got overwhelmed by those as well.
Lovely to see you had a great trip.
Morocco is well worth the effort to see and it does depend on what you want to experience as to where you go there. Yep, a ferry trip across the med from Malaga would be great, I’m not sure where it would land in Morocco however. The street hasslers can be overwhelming, but after a few years now I can take them in my stride. The annoying part is before you even get the chance to see what they have on the stall etc they jump on you asking what you want and start suggesting items. It can be so annoying.