Cyprus – Nicosia

On my 7 day trip to Cyprus I also took in the following places.

Click on the link for each place to read my post on them.

I arrived in Larnaca and based myself here, then made day-trips out by car, to see each site.

Larnaca – I click here. 

Kyrenia – click here

Paphos – click here

Limassol – click here

Day trip to Nicosia

My trip to Nicosia was to be made from my base in Larnaca.

When I first thought of car travel in Cyprus, I had my reservations. I did not know what road conditions and driving standards would be like here, so I was in two minds about doing this.

Looking at public transport links however convinced me that in order to do this five location tour, car was the only reasonably quick and reliable method of transport.

If I took the drive to Nicosia, then this would prepare me for my proposed trip to Kyrenia on the north coast of the island. All the route up to the border would be along the same route, so I could gauge the conditions and also have a pre-run of the route.

I planned the route and was surprised when the map said the route was only 48 km long with a journey time of 43 mins. The route was almost entirely by a modern, dual carriageway. It all looked very easy and uncomplicated – and it mostly was.

I left early and encountered no hold-ups along the way. The only complication was when you reach the central area of Nicosia and realise that many streets are one way only. My trusty maps.me app on my phone however guided me around when I put in my destination after a short stop after realising this.

I had found a parking area near where I wanted to go and actually found it quite cheap to park in this modern setting, situated below the old city walls. Innovative or what! The view from my parking spot was up to the angular walls of the old city defences!

Everything I wanted to see was within walking distance from here, apart from the Art Gallery I had planned to see. That was actually on the route back to Larnaca about 2 km away so I drove there later and found free parking easily on the street nearby.

What is the origin of Nicosia’s name

This can be a little difficult as Nicosia is just the English version of the capital’s name.

Today, the local Greek Cypriots call it Lefkosia and the local Turkish Cypriots call it Lefkosa. Yep, that did confuse me as I drove towards Nicosia and kept wondering where this town called Lefkosia was on the map, that the road signs kept referring to!

Way back in history, the city was supposedly named Lefkosia after one of the daughters of Achelous and Melpomene – two people in ancient Greek Mythology. The ancient Greek words for white estate are “leuke ousia” and thus it also translates as “White State” or “City of White Gods”. Seems it could come from either.

If you want to go trace the city’s name through time, there are confusing variations at different times in history. Back in 1050 BC it was recorded as being called Lidr in the city-state of Ledra. The ruins of old Ledra can still be seen in the city.

In 392 AD it was referred to as “Leucotheon”. Early Christians called it Leuteonos and the Byzantines in the 2^nd Century AD called it Leukousia.

By the 4^th Century AD, it was being called Lefkosia – the Greek name it carries to this day. Confusing, eh?

So when did the name Nicosia appear on the scene? That first appeared in 1192, when the French speaking Lusignans, who ruled the island from that date till 1493, called it Nicosie, which was corrupted to Nicosia in English.

Take your pick on the name, but for clarity, I’m sticking with Nicosia in this post!

Nicosia through the ages

Nicosia is old – it is known to have been an inhabited area since 2500 BC – that is old!

We know it grew into a city-state by 672 BC and then diminished to the size of a town by 329 BC being reliant on agriculture. Nip over to Ayia Paraskevi hill in the south east of the city if you really want to see those remains.

However, after the early Christians regarded it important enough to have the seat of a Bishop here in the 400s AD, it grew substantially. Being an inland city though, it could not compete with the coastal towns that prospered from international Mediterranean trade.

That all changed when the Arabs continually attacked the coastal areas and devastated many towns.

Now its inland situation, away from marauding seafarers became its asset.

Salamis, the old Cypriot capital on the east coast was sacked by the raiding Arabs in 647 AD and thus inland towns became more attractive settlements.

Nicosia grew, aided by the fact that it had a secure water supply and in a protective inland location.

The Byzantines in 965 AD moved their capital to relatively safe Nicosia and it remained the capital until today.

It prospered through the 11^th and 12^th century, mainly from not being attacked – just as well as it did not have defensive city walls.

Richard I of England invaded and took the island in 1187, but sold it to the Knights Templar later. The French Lusignans took over in 1192 and renamed the city Nicosie, from where the English version Nicosia comes from. They built much here – St Sophia Cathedral in the city is probably the most famous of their constructions. Their Tombs are also here.

My post on Paphos describes some of the grand buildings they built in Paphos, now in semi-ruins.

Tumultuous times then happened. It was conquered by the Italian Genoese in 1374, then the middle eastern Mamluks took over in 1426.

1489 saw the Italian Venetians take over, who built immense defensive walls that encircled the city in an eleven-pronged star shape in 1567. Three gates entered the city and the city river was diverted to flow around the walls like a moat. Much of them remain today and my car park, at ground level, was sited here.

In 1570, disaster struck. The Ottomans, having captured many other Cypriot cities, headed to Nicosia and laid siege for 40 days.

Of the 21,000 inhabitants of the city, 20,000 died. Every building, church, palace etc was looted and destroyed, leaving only 1,000 people living in the city. That number was less than several nearby villages. The St Sophia Cathedral was looted and turned into a Mosque and remains so today. More on my visit to that site in my post later.

The island remained under Ottoman rule until 1878 when it was given to the British by the Ottomans on condition of support for them against Russian expansion. The Brits had previously turned down the same offer three times, in the previous 40 years!

The Brits expanded the island as a major naval base and strategic location in the Med’. However the tax that had to be paid to the Ottomans for “leasing” the island was paid basically by the Cypriots which caused more poverty and resentment to another set of occupiers.

When the Ottomans sided with the enemy in WW1 Britain annexed the island and took complete control in 1914.

In 1955 a bloody armed struggle against British rule began, aiming to unite the island with Greece, supported by most Greek Cypriots. During the period of the struggle, Nicosia was the scene of violent protests against British rule but it ultimately failed.

In 1960 Cyprus was made an independent nation with Nicosia as its capital.

In 1963 communal violence broke out between the Christian Greek Cypriots and the Muslim Turkish Cypriots in the city over amendments to the Constitution.

Sadly, the violence was not contained and the city was divided into a Turkish area and a Greek area by a barricaded dividing line through the city, a bit like the old Berlin Wall. This so-called dividing Green Line was administered and patrolled by the UN and still survives to this day.

Why is it called “The Green Line” – well quite simply, it was the colour of the pen ink used when the line was drawn by the UN through the city.

In 1974, a coup d’état by the Greek Cypriot favouring political groups and the Greek military leaders of dictatorship ruled Greece, ousted the President and government and installed a Greek government. Five days later Turkey invaded in retaliation and commenced occupation of the Muslim majority northern half of the island.

The fighting caused an immense refugee problem as the Christian and Muslim populations relocated to either side of the island. Properties were abandoned and taken over relentlessly. The Green Line was now extended across the whole island, effectively partioning it into two.

In fact, the owner of the apartment I rented in Larnaca told me of how his family fled from the northern area to Larnaca and that their house there is now, taken over and lived in by Turkish Cypriots.

In 1975 the Northern part of the island occupied by Turkish forces renamed their area and then in 1983 declared independence as the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

At present no country in the world (except Turkey) recognises this newly formed area.

The two parts of Nicosia were completely cut off from each other. It wasn’t until 2003 that two crossings were opened, and another in 2008 between the two halves.

Nicosia is today the only city in the world that has an international border running through it, thus demarcating it into two separately run areas.  It’s a unique and interesting phenomena but also a sadly contentious one.

Ledra Street area

Ledra street, way back before partition of the island in 1974, was the bustling main street of the capital. At the time it was not pedestrianised, as it is today,

With the outbreak of hostilities between the Greek and Turkish communities within the city and further out in 1963, the street became a somewhat dangerous place to be in. The Greek separatist group often committed acts of terror and shooting on the street with bombings and shooting of then British authority guards or soldiers.

It earned the nickname “Murder mile” as the street was around a mile long.

Barricades across streets that divided the two communities, were set up in 1963 and British personnel patrolled the areas. The city was effectively cut in two and no-one could cross the barricades.

When the Turkish army invaded the island in the north in 1974 and later set up a separate administration for that area the barricades became permanent and the UN were called in to patrol the new “border”. The island was cut in two and no-one was allowed to cross any border

Today, Ledra Street, on the Greek side of the crossing, still retains much of its central importance for commerce and many big brands have their main stores here. However, with the advent of big glitzy shopping malls it could be claimed that Ledra Street is now not so important or busy.

The Greek side of the street has high-end store and lots of fancy open-air cafes and street seating. It feels like an affluent Italian resort and in good weather the restaurant open-air areas are thronging.

There is an attractive, huge, aerial sunshade along the street. Triangular pieces of canvas in beige and yellow have been stretched across the street to provide shade and gives the whole area really bright and stylishly creative, aerial display

Ledra Street Crossing

The first border crossings were set up in 2003

The Ledra Street barricade was proposed to be opened as the tenses eased but it took a while until April 2008 that both sides agreed and initiated it. After 34 years the street was finally then opened and stayed open as the fifth crossing over the UN Green Line on the island

There are presently nine places where you can cross the border today.

The crossing is literally that. You walk out of any shop nearby and on the side of the street, next to a weird pole style monument, are two booths.

I call them booths because they actually look like large ticket offices or car park paying booths. If you didn’t know what they were you would miss the crossing.

No security is obvious but then as you approach, with shoppers weaving past you, you see a small roped barrier down the street. You go to the right and present your passport – no real queue or anyone directing

You pass through, then carry on walking a desolate part of the street where everything is bordered up and even barricaded and suddenly you realise you are in the middle of the actual “Green Line”. Walk twenty paces further and you arrive at another “ticket booth” and show your passport again. You are waved through and you are in Northern Cyprus!

On both sides, the passport checking is cursory, a quick glance – often not even looking at your face to compare. I swear I could have had Mickey Mouse as my passport photo and they wouldn’t have noticed.

Once in Northern Cyprus, it is also obvious you are somewhere else, as this part of Ledra Street is definitely more run -down – tacky souvenir shops, grocery stores and lots of small places selling cans of drink and candy. It’s definitely not the affluent look you were in 30 seconds ago of designer brands and outdoor classy restaurants in Southern Greek Nicosia.

The atmosphere and style is immediately different. Turkish names in Roman alphabet letters replaced Greek letters, stores are small family affairs and smaller and unstylish. The area looks dated and most of the streets are narrower and pavements get rarer. Buildings are lower, often only one or two stories, not the 4-9 storey ones in the south and there looks like there hasn’t been any buiding/deveopments for 30 years. What a contrast. It has to be seen to be appreciated.

So, I am across the “border” and I was to explore the Turkish side of the city before anything else.

I wanted to get across early, in case of any issues, and also see all I needed to before it was closed to come back. I couldn’t find opening/closing times on line, so still don’t know if it is 24 hours opening or restricted.

Buyuk Han (Great Inn) Nicosia

My first place to explore was only a few minutes across the border and I set off down the small mainly pedestrianised streets that often had tables and chairs outside a café. Invariably too many of them and somewhat encroaching too much on the actual walking area.

I arrived at the huge, tall, solid looking walls of one side of this massive square structure topped with dozens of small chimneys

This was a caravanserai – an olden day inn used by groups of traveling merchants (caravans, from where our present-day word comes from) as stop-off points.

They are huge buildings, usually in a square shape with high outer walls. One big entrance would let in e.g. heavily laden camels and inside was accommodation. They housed the travellers and animals in separate rooms and pens, afforded food and water for both and often even had a Mosque for prayer. If you got a good one there would often be a Hammam (public bathhouse) and a few stores to buy goods.

This was impressive from the outside and I walked round to find the entrance in.

Walking in you are greeted by the interior, two story terrace that runs round the four sides of the entire building. The glorious arches gave it an almost cloister feel with lots of space and openness.

I could see why this was the biggest caravanserai on the island, having been built by the Ottomans in 1572.  There are 68 rooms in both floors, with the ones at the ground floor being historically used for commerce and the ones at the first floor historically used for accommodation. There are also 10 one-storey shops behind the colonnade at the eastern entrance.

Inside the courtyard is a small Mosque and a fountain for washing.

It got its name “Great Inn” in the 17^th Century having previously gone by several other names.

When the British took over Cyprus in 1878, they used it as a prison, but it returned to being an Inn in 1903 when the new Central prison was built. In 1945 it became a residential block for low-income families and was only restored for commercial use in the 1990’s.

Today it is an art and cultural centre with lots of beautiful artisan workshops and shops selling unique handicrafts. By law the handicrafts have to be made by the tenants living above their shops. If you want a unique, home-made Cypriot gift then here is the place you must buy it.

I wandered several stores (large rooms) and the creativity and charm of the items were beautiful and unique – I was sorely tempted!

There are also a couple of cafes here. They however had erected modern beach style umbrellas to give shade to the outside seating areas. That definitely jarred on the beauty of the ancient walls and arches and spoilt what could have been a perfect interior setting.

Selimiye Camii Mosque Nicosia

This building has gone by different names over the centuries depending on its Turkish or Greek name or when it was a Cathedral or a Mosque.

Let’s go back a while to 1209 when it was decided to build a Cathedral here. It was to be called Hagia Sophia or Holy Wisdom in Greek from the name of the earlier church upon which it was built. During its construction two major earthquakes in 1267 and 1303 destroyed parts already built and so it had to be restarted.

The Kings of Cyprus, however were crowned here, but It took over 100 years to be finally finished in 1326. At the time it was considered to be the largest Cathedral built between 600 BC right up to the 1700’s in the Mediterranean. It is certainly the largest and oldest surviving Gothic church in Cyprus.

In 1347 the northwest tower was built and 1373 saw damage to it from the raiding Genoese. In 1491 it was severely damaged by another earthquake but the invading Venetians restored it. In 1507 it was made the centre of the city when they built the massive defensive walls around Nicosia.

The Ottomans attacked the city in 1570 and the Cathedral became a refuge. They broke the city walls and entered the Cathedral, killing the Bishop and many inside. They then set about converting it to a Mosque and adding two minaret towers, and Muslim prayer features inside.

Being such a huge building, it was now the largest Mosque on the island.

In 1954 it adopted its present name of Selimiye Mosque or “Selimiye Camii” in Turkish.

So, approaching this present-day Mosque was a bit surreal.

I was clearly walking towards a Gothic large church with the tracery of stained-glass window, Norman styled arches and a very European 14^th Century look.

There were flying buttresses, rose glass windows (bricked up) and further clerestory windows all traditionally found in Christian Churches. However, it seemed as if someone had taken a huge knife and cut off everything from the roof eave upwards. The roofline was uncharacteristically flat. The towers and some parts of the windows seemed unfinished of even demolished.

At two corners of the edifice were two slender tall minarets rising to the sky, clearly a Mosque feature. I was looking for the domes, a traditional feature of Mosques but none were here. The windows have no stained glass in them, despite being clearly designed to hold it. It looked as it was in semi-ruins from the outside.

At its large door were racks for placing your shoes in and writing in Arabic and English stating it was the Selimiye Camii.

There were very few people around so I approached, took of my shoes and entered.

Walking around inside I was clearly inside what was once an old church except there were no Christian symbols. The walls were strangely painted completely white but there was a red patterned carpet on the floor. Two opposing characteristics.

Ahead of me was the nave and two side aisles, above me was a classic Christian vaulted ceiling supported by traditional Christian columns connected by archways.

As I walked further in I could see large discs on the wall with Arabic scroll and finally, near where the alter would be or at the end of the nave was a minbar, from where the Imam would deliver his service.

It was all so unreal, mish-mash and I didn’t know what to make of it. It was much more Christian in style on the inside than a Mosque. I suppose I was expecting much more alteration from the original but the 14^th Century Christian Cathedral style stood out.

Today, it is regarded as the main Mosque of Nicosia and can hold 2500 worshippers.

Around the Mosque

Just opposite the Mosque is a smallish but pretty building called The Stone Works Museum. It was built in the 14th century in the Venetian style. It was once a place where pilgrims and travellers were given accommodation.

It has many examples of stone works (badges, marble works, sarcophagi and columns) from the Middle Ages until today. It is also known as the Lapidary Museum.

It was closed on the day I visited despite the opening hours stating it should be open.

Just up the street was another church that had been converted into another use. It is now a local authority building. I took the pic not because it was famous (maybe it is!) but because it showed again how buildings have changed use over the centuries.

Dervish Pasha Museum

The Dervish Pasha Museum is located in Belig Pasha Street, a 15 mins walk from the Mosque

The house itself was built in the early 19th century, it has two entrances, one of which has the date 1807 on it. It is renown as a fine example of Ottoman architecture and I really wanted to see it.

As I entered, I was hoping it would take Euros as several reviews said it would. Turkish Lira is the official currency in Northern Cyprus but apparently Euros are widely taken at tourist places.

The lady at reception seemed surprised but happy to see me. I got the feeling that not many northern European tourists came here and that it was mainly Turkish tourists. I asked if I could pay in Euros and in her broken English, she said yes and pointed at the sign that displayed Euros and Lira entrance price. I happily paid as it was inexpensive but did notice, doing a quick Euros to Lira conversion that the Euros price was much higher. Anyhow, what’s a Euro between friends!

She was very helpful and friendly and asked me my language and went and got me a pamphlet that explained the museum in English – very helpful. She then explained in her broken English the route and checked all was ok with a smile – a great welcome indeed. I noticed she was the only person on duty also and during my entire visit I only saw a family wandering around the building too.

Inside, the whitewashed walls, plain yellow-stoned arches, terracotta roof and blue woodwork are all typical. It is built on two floors, the first in stone and the second in mud brick.

Various displays of weaving and textile-making were available to see and mannikins were dressed in traditional costumes of the Ottoman period.

Period wooden furniture and implements from days gone by were arranged in cabinets and behind roped off area. They really gave a feel for a house of the time as the windows looked out onto street and the house still had the original floorplan.

Several rooms were furnished as they would have been including a bedroom with a bride and groom, standing to greet you as you enter – weird but there you go.

The L-shaped mansion has a spacious inner yard which has a well.

The room with cases of original clothing fascinated me. The colours and styles were so creative and unlike anything I was used to seeing on a daily basis

There is also a small café here near the entrance.

Whilst it may not be high on everyone’s list of places to visit, for the small price and 25 mins that it takes to go round, it was quite unique in its displays

Crossing back through Nicosia’s UN Green Line

Yes, on the Turkish side, the photo below is the official border crossing.

Blink and you would miss, I nearly did, thinking I had taken a wrong turn as nothing was official looking here.

The passport control is the portacabin-like building on the right.

It’s on the street and you walk up to it still standing outside and pass your passport through the kiosk window to be checked.

Well, that’s the theory.

I walked up to it and the guard was looking down at his phone messaging someone on Facebook – I could see the Facebook symbols. He didn’t even notice me.

I looked in through the window and saw another guy on a computer at the back of the windowless area.

Outraged at the lack of security or attention, I took a few steps forward to see even if they noticed I was there and they didn’t. After going by, a few steps actually past him, I returned thinking no, probably if they did then notice me, I would get into trouble. Knowing these guards, I’d be fined for doing it (the money going straight into their pocket no doubt).

I walked back and looked at him again. No, he still didn’t notice me. I tapped on the window in annoyance and pointed to my passport, “Do you want to see this?” I asked.

He nonchantly slid open the window, took it from me, flicked a few pages for about 3 seconds and passed it back, again uncommittedly waving me on. I’m sure he didn’t even look at the photo!

What a farce I thought to myself, this is just a joke of an administration procedure, there is no real “border” with this attitude.

At the Greek Cypriot checkpoint, my passport was checked properly by an alert guard. Apparently though, this is just Police checking and not even their border security people as the Greek Cypriots don’t regard the crossing as an official border. They consider Cyprus to be one country and that Turkey is occupying the northern third of the country.

A G Levantis Gallery 

Being the modern art culture-vulture that I am, this is one place that I wanted to see in Nicosia.

I collected my car after seeing Turkish Nicosia, drove here and easily parked on the free parking nearby streets.

It is the collection of art and sculpture collected over the years by a wealthy Cypriot. He philanthropically decided to bequeath it to the nation if an appropriate Gallery could be built for its display.

It is primarily Greek art, Cypriot art and European art, housed in three sections of the Museum. Just to explain, the European art is called the Paris Collection as he displayed it all in his large Parisian apartment in the past.

The Gallery was opened in 2014 and is a modern, airy and architecturally impressive building near the centre of Nicosia.

It’s called the AG Levantis as it’s named after the man who gave all the artwork to the Gallery, Anastasios G. Levantis, 1902-78.

Here are many of my favourite works from the Gallery. There are hundreds more but hopefully this gives you a taster of the variety and differing styles that he kept.

The Gallery was impressive and without going into boring detail about each room, suffice to say it was one of the best 2 hours I spent in Nicosia. I stayed right up to closing time as I was loving the exhibitions, which were not just paintings but sculpture and ancient objects he had amassed.

Click here for its website for visiting times and further info.

This Gallery was my last place to visit in Nicosia, or Lefkosia if you prefer. It was time to get back to the car and drive the 45 mins back to Larnaca, to the apartment that was serving so well as the base for my stay in Cyprus

My thoughts on Nicosia

I really didn’t know what to expect of Nicosia as I knew so little about it beforehand. It was therefore quite exciting and unusual for me, to enter into a city with no real mental picture of what I was about to see.

The defensive walls were huge and impressive but don’t really feature as a go to place. They appear at different places around the city where they haven’t been built over.

The border crossing was hilarious and I know I’m being rude in ignoring the cultural, religious and political differences it symbolises …. but it’s farcical to cross. It’s an admin procedure and needs to go, like the Berlin Wall and others and people need to work at reconciliation and respect. It went up when the Greek Cypriots started an unpopular unilateral process and now the two sides can logically work at overcoming that error of political judgement. My fear is that politicians have their own agenda in keeping the two parts separate, rather than work with the will of the people.

However, you must go across that border. The two sides of the city are very different. I’ll stick my neck out here and say that I saw a very affluent Greek side and an impoverished, under developed Turkish side. I know things are changing but the differences are still clear.

The sights are all great but for me, I loved the A G Levantis Gallery. I’m a huge art fan and maybe I saw just too many old ruins and buildings in the other sites days in Cyprus before I got to Nicosia. None were Galleries and so I guess I was needing my art-world fix by the time I got here.

However you must see the Saint Sophia Cathedral/Selimiye Mosque, if only for the surreal internal/external kaleidoscope of architecture and use.

Feb 2018

Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.