San Marino – San Marino city

My last European country ticked off the list

My visit to San Marino was going to be very special. Even if it turned out to be a disaster of a visit, it was an important event.

Why?

Well, San Marino was be the very last European country for me to visit, to be able to say that I have visited EVERY European country so far.

Some countries do not feature in my posts, as I had been to them before I stated my blog and thus have no photos of them. As some where when I was in my teens, I know full well that they have probably changed beyond recognition now. They are on my list of revisits I must do when, and if, I eventually get to fulfil my dream of visiting every country in the world. ….. that may be some time away!

How to get to San Marino

Ok, San Marino is a bit of a backwater place to get to. It is a sovereign country but being the fifth smallest country in the world means that it does not have its own airport or even a train station. You get there by bus or drive after arriving somewhere else in Italy, as it is completely landlocked by Italy.

The nearest airport is at Rimini some 25 km away.

Rimini is quite a small airport and has flights mainly during the warmer seasons there. In fact, when I took my flight there were only two other flights arriving at the airport the whole day.

From the airport, you walk out to the font of the building. Yes, it is that small, and catch a bus from the airport stop in front. It was so quiet that I was actually the only person waiting for the bus. Bus info is scant but they seem to come around every hour so be prepared for a wait.

There are other buses on the main road if you want to walk about 7 mins further out and wait at the bus stop near the big roundabout.

The airport is so close to the city that once you are out of the airport building you can virtually see the start of houses across the road.

The ride into Rimini to the train station is inexpensive and it takes around 20-30 mins depending on which route that particular service is taking. It was cheap at about 3 Euros.

Once you get off at the train station (a quite elegant long, classically styled building), the stop for the bus to San Marino city is directly across the road.

You buy your ticket at the tobacco/stationery shop near the corner (return tickets are better value), displaying the signage for tickets to San Marino. The stop is just a little further along the road, where the houses start after the shops finish. Click here for the Rimini to San Marino bus service 

There are boards with the bus number and routes there, so you can find which of the two stops next to each other you need.

There is a bus about every hour that takes around 45 mins to get to San Marino, as it stops at several villages and university stops on the way. Tickets are 5 Euros each way.

The main stop for San Marino is not in the centre, as the city is on a huge sloping mountainside with narrow streets, so be prepared to get from there to your hotel. I did notice that taxis were waiting there if someone needed them but again, they can’t go into the city as the roads are too narrow and most are pedestrianised anyhow.

The centre is nearby but remember you will be walking up some steep slopes as the city is built into the incline of a mount.

My stop for my hotel was after the main stop. The bus goes along the side of the summit and then circles the mount to reach back to the route it came in on and starts its journey back to Rimini.

Getting from the airport to San Marino is actually quite easy if you follow this plan. The only issue is that you may have wait at the airport and in Rimini for the buses if your timings don’t coincide well with the service times.

Alternatively, you can catch a taxi from the airport direct to San Marino. This is not cheap – my hotel quoted me 65 Euros each way to arrange it. If there are several of you this would be something to consider, as you can split the cost and get there quicker and more comfortably.

I preferred to spend 16 Euros return on the buses rather than 130 return by taxi and enjoy the fun and challenge of arriving by public transport. I actually found it very easy and quite comfortable on the bus.

A little bit about San Marino before we explore

So, anyone would think being such a small country there would be so little to mention about this country.

Well, that is somewhat true but what there is, is actually quite intriguing.

How did this landlocked, Italian speaking microstate of 61 square kms, with a population of only 34,000 inhabitants come into being?

It doesn’t have its own currency (it adopted the Euro when it was first invented). It also It has no airport, train stations, separate language or border posts (I had to use sat nav on my phone to find out when I was actually in the country).

Its “army” is made up of around 300 mainly voluntary personnel who perform ceremonial, (touristy) duties, are musicians in the marching band and engineers who maintain the ceremonial canons and displays.

However, it does boast of being in the UN, issues its own passports and car number plates, is one of the wealthiest places in the world by GDP and for such a small country, has two simultaneous Presidents– quite a dichotomy!

The largest city is actually Dogana, not the capital San Marino city.

It holds the record as the world’s oldest Republic – with the cute official title of “The Most Serene Republic of San Marino”. It’s also the third smallest country in Europe and the fifth worldwide.

That’s all the anomalies sorted out and explained

So how did San Marino get established?

For that we need to go back to 275 AD for the birth of a man who was known by a single name only of Marinus (meaning “of the sea”). He was born on the island of Rab, in what is now the Dalmatian coast of Croatia on the Adriatic Sea. He became a stonemason but had strong Christian religious feelings and even was ordained for religious services.

Eventually he had to flee when the Romans (who ruled the area) tried to persecute him for his beliefs. He heard that the city of Rimini, virtually on the opposite side of the Adriatic Sea from the island, was looking for craftsmen to rebuild its city walls after destruction by attacking pirates. His stonemasonry work and experience meant he was immediately taken on by the authorities there.

It is said he also spread the Christian word among his fellow workers who had often suffered the same persecution as him.

In later life he decided to leave Rimini and went to Mount Titano (the cliff top of present-day San Marino City) and founded a chapel-monastery there in 301 AD, where he lived as a hermit in religious contemplation.

He became so well-known for his religious devotion that the lady who owned the Mount gifted it to him. Thus, was born the area where San Marino city now stands and the start of the country.

He died in 366 AD and was later canonised as Saint Marino.

So, what next? The self-governing area extended in size gradually during the 14^th and 15^th Centuries to include neighbouring towns and its eventually borders then, are pretty much what they are today.

Its first invasion happened in 1403 when the famous Cesare Borgia took it over for 6 months, till Pope Julius II intervened and restored its independence.

A failed invasion in 1543 happened, then in 1631 it came under the “protection” of the Papal States but retained autonomy and then another 4 month occupation by a local Governor.

It was quickly restored to independence and even Napoleon respected its independence when he conquered Italy in 1797.

Everything went well from then and it prospered.

Want to know a fun fact? Abraham Lincoln, the American President was made on honorary citizen. He was duly impressed!

In WW1 it remained neutral, despite Italy’s (remember it is landlocked by Italy) attempts to subvert it. It remained neutral also in WW2 despite having a Fascist administration.

Only at the end of the war was it briefly occupied by Germans and once bombed by the British.

Since then, San Marino has prospered to become a wealthy Republic. It has retained much of its 15th century street layout and buildings, with industry only built on the outer flat plains of the country. To walk its myriad of streets and walkways is like taking a step back a few hundred years.

Want a few more fun facts? San Marino is the only country to have had a truly democratically elected Communist Government, it lasted from 1945-1957.

It won its first ever Olympic medal at the Tokyo 2020 Games, and finally in April 2022 elected, as one of the two regent Presidents, an openly gay man. The first ever elected openly gay Head of State in the world!

That’s San Marino in a nutshell, nothing dramatic but full of intriguing events.

Where to stay in San Marino

There are several varying options here, all with pros and cons.

A. Stay in Rimini where the hotels are much cheaper with a greater selection of grades and styles and take the bus into San Marino. However, you have to be prepared to get to the two main Rimini bus stops (near the train station and Arco de Augusto). Then an hour’s drive in at 5 Euros, then the same back. Could be cheaper but it’s 2 hours travelling plus the distance from your hotel. It would be a rush to see everything in one day if you don’t linger or decide to miss out a few places but doable. If not, you repeat the same the next day, with the same cost in money and time

B. Stay in San Marino city. This is quite expensive per night due to the monopoly of the limited number of hotels there – mostly of a high class too, in a conservation area. However, you are next to everything for no extra cost and within 5-10 mins of most attractions. More possibility of seeing San Marino in one day if you arrive very early for check in and leave bags and use the next day for more exploring before collecting bags. Thus you could effectively save a night’s accommodation.

C. Do as I did, and stay at a hotel out of the centre at a 20 min walk in (uphill, I know). This was the medium cost option, giving me two nights in an hotel, no travel costs but extra leg work

D. Stay in San Marino countryside in a nearby town e.g., Serravalle, Dogana or Domagnano. Cheaper and still officially inside the country of San Marino, but involving an expensive taxi ride into San Marino city or use the bus on the main road, if you can find the timetable.

Where I stayed in San Marino

I did my usual extensive research and decided not to be in the city centre. Prices were coming up as very high and my budget didn’t afford them – wonderful as they were.

I didn’t want a long journey into and out of San Marino by staying in Rimini. Although I did toy around with the idea of it and add in Rimini for 2 days as an extension to use the beach and see the sights.

The hotel I chose came up with a very good cheap price for the stars it was and I was seeing a lot higher prices nearby. Photos looked wonderful and the reviews (many) were good. It meant a 20 mins walk to get into the centre up what are quite long and tiring upward sloping streets but I liked the price for the extra legwork involved.

On reflection I would say that unless you enjoy walking as I do and are fairly fit, the constant upward slope of the route (along wide, well-maintained pavements beside the road) was quite tiring. The only benefit being that it was downhill on the way back!

The route was actually quite picturesque too as there were often big panoramic views of the surrounding countryside as I ascended the mount along the street. It was also an insight into seeing how locals lived in quite stylish and well-maintained buildings.

San Marino IDesign Hotel

This 4 star hotel was a good choice.

Its very modern both inside and outside. The views from the front of the hotel actually look down over the nearby countryside.

If you have a car there is free street parking opposite, on a long and underused layby.

The foyer was wacky but so artistic. The lift was surprising. It had a classic London telephone box image on the wall but the illuminated walls changed colour gradually every few second from pinks to reds to purple and all myriad of colours. It certainly made the lift trip every time more exciting than usual!

The owners clearly wanted to have a “design” and the large seating area of the foyer was a mixture of Dali/Picasso and modernist artwork interpretations everywhere. The area was almost an art and sculpture gallery in itself. It was very stylish and quite unique, the photos hopefully convey that message.

The breakfast room was not huge but it was never crowded. It was again an artistic work to inspire. There was an outside terrace in the morning and evening as it doubled as a bar. In the warmth of the sunny weather I had on the trip, having breakfast al fresco was a delight.

However, the downside (despite it advertising itself as a non-smoking hotel) was that guests were allowed to smoke in the big outside terrace/patio. Smoke drifting past me while I’m eating breakfast is not what I want so I eventually kept inside the hotel to avoid the smoke (I am an avid cigarette smoke hater).

The rooms were very modern and spacious. Lots of glass and chrome and white linen. However, in its attempt to be ultra “designer” it lost its way in some practical aspects. The desk chair was a stool (no back support) and being at the desk for a few hours for my writeups etc meant I did have to ask reception to swop it for a proper chair with a backrest, which they happily did.

Weirdly the main sockets were on a side wall, away from any surface so I had to recharge my phone by lying it on the floor near the socket. Luckily, I had an extension lead for my laptop and iPad but that impracticality stuck in my mind.

Another weird thing was that I couldn’t find the light switch to the bathroom. I called reception and they told me it was on the main bank of light switches near the entrance door. It was strange to have to walk to the door to turn the bathroom light on, then walk across to the other side of the room to go into the bathroom – and then the same on exit. Design over function doesn’t always work!

However, the room was quiet (I asked for one away from the main room Infront), really comfy, great aircon and WIFI and a marvellous breakfast and I enjoyed it. I would defo stay here again if the same deal was on.

Day one in San Marino

Unusually for me, I had not planned an hour-by-hour itinerary of where I needed to be to see what I wanted and make sure I covered the areas.

In San Marino, there is no real “one famous place you can’t miss”. In fact, whilst there is much to see in fabulous vistas and glory there is no iconic, one place to get to. There are many, all of equal interest.  Most people don’t even know of San Marino let alone can name one famous sight there. Nothing of Eiffel Tower, Big Ben, Taj Mahal or Pyramids fame here.

Having said that, don’t get me wrong in thinking it is not a relevant place. It is fabulous in many other ways.

Walking the streets (if you can ignore the hordes of tourists and shop signs), really is like stepping back to Mediaeval times or the 15^th Century. The whole city is preserved much like Dubrovnik and Venice are and it is so unchanged that it almost feels like a stage set.

Rarely do you see anything “modern” and everything is preserved and refurbished back to its original state of antiquity – there are no MacDonald’s or Starbucks in San Marino city (thank heavens!)

The sites I visited will have some extra info on them, if they merit it, but this post is going to be picture filled.

The vistas are of street upon street of glorious building, none particularly famous in themselves but forming a unique historical panorama that delights the eyes.

San Marino city is not a city of Museums, art galleries, impressive public buildings and heroic statues. Yes, it has a few of these, small in size and importance, it is about something else.

Getting lost in the maze of interconnecting streets while gazing at the traditional and beautiful ancient buildings and taking in the history of the place, is what San Marino city is really all about.

Have I whetted your appetite enough now, because that is what we are about to see? So let’s get on with the trip.

I set off from the hotel for my climb up, long ascending roads. On the way the buildings often opened up and I could see the land falling away from me as I got higher. This gave me the full experience of realising I was ascending a Mount – at various points my legs did too, as whilst it is not exhausting, it does require a bit of stamina. I did also wonder why I was the only person I could see dong this, on what were perfectly maintained pavements and walkways.

When a large group of fortified looking building started to appear ahead, I finally knew I had reached the first of the several gateways into the ancient city itself.

Gate of Saint Francis

These impressive fortified gates date from 1361 AD when they formed part of the city defensive walls. They were repaired and refurbished in 1451 AD and 1581 AD. A balcony from the 16^th Century looms over the exterior entranceway.

The city’s coat of arms is also prominently carved into the balcony’s façade.

This was it, the entrance into the city and walking through iy just showed how high, strong and intimidating they are.

Did I mention that the whole of the city of San Marino is a listed UNESCO place – yep, not just one building but the whole ancient city area. If you don’t believe me, then look on the wall just inside the gate, as there is a plaque there declaring that very fact!

Follow the streets

You pass through so many fabulous squares, small setting of buildings, towers on one side, huge rising mediaeval buildings on the other and nearly all traffic-free.

Just “follow the streets” if you want to as I did and take in the views. Here’s a collage of the views I encountered before I arrived at one known site on the route.

If you can get a map of the city, that would be very helpful. Many of the streets can look similar, as they are all ancient and knowing where you are headed is a good idea to avoid getting lost and having to backtrack..

I had a map, but decided to just follow the very long terraced route along the twisting road, with all the building on either side and views out from the mount.

Cava dei Balestrieri

On your way up the mount, if you follow the main route, you will come across this. Look down from the parapet and you will see the Cave dei Balestrieri. It was originally a quarry opened up in the 19^th Century to extract stone to restore the Palazzo Pubblico above,

Its translation is The Crossbowmen’s Quarry – strange I know, but apparently it was used for crossbow practice.

Today there are still archery displays here on the 3 Sept every year, where over 80 volunteers, dressed in mediaeval costumes delight the crowds with their skills. It is also used as an open-air theatre.

Cable car

The Funivia di San Marino is an aerial cable car that was originally installed here in 1959 but more recently completely modernised in 2017.

For the cost of 4.5 Euros, you can travel down to Borgo Maggiore below and vice versa. It is very popular with tourist who often just do it for a return trip for the marvellous view on the way down/up.

You have to be quick with your camera though as the trip only takes about 3 mins. The cars carry around 30 people. There can be queues, especially in peak season and they run every 15 mins or so.

I did just that, but between journeys, I visited a well-known church in Borgo Maggiore before my return trip back up.

For the cheap price it is and the extra fun it provides and the views, its worth taking that 30 mins out of your day to enjoy it.

Chiesa di Sant Antimo o del Suffragio

I decided to take the cable car down to see the church below here. Whilst it is not well-known, I had read up about it and it contained something somewhat unique and maybe macabre to a non-religious person like myself.

Inside the Church here, which fairly plain inside but beautifully maintained, is a bone of the Saint the Church is named after.

It’s in a glass fronted wooden cabinet in a wall insert.

I was just curious to see a bit of a dead saint, weird as that may sound.

It was noticeable that I was the only person in the church at the time. It did cross my mind what the security was to prevent someone just smashing the case and making off with the relic. I had visions in my mind of some Mission Impossible scenario, whereby if the case is smashed alarms go off and steel cages slide down to block off the exits and gas rises to choke the assailant – my mind can work overtime sometimes!

It was actually calming to wander the church and the area after experiencing the tourist hordes up above.

The big square next to the church is an old market that had been used for centuries and now has a beautiful clocktower and small history museum.

More street views

Back up at the top after my return in the cable car, it was time to explore again.

I was headed for the next stop – The Palace – but the route would take me past glorious buildings. None are particularly famous and most are just homes, apartment (converted on the inside) and offices, all located in centurie’s old buildings.

The walk is just filled with wonderful sight after sight of these ancient edifices, still in their centuries old stone and designs. As I said, the whole city is a UNESCO site, so town planning is strictly controlled to maintain its traditional atmosphere and structure.

Just walk and walk and admire the surrounding buildings as you pass them for ages. Every now and again, you get a gap in the buildings and a visual panorama opens up of the countryside below for kilometres on end. I was in photo heaven!

Liberty Square

Eventually my wandering brought me to probably the “Piece de resistance” in San Marino City

Liberty Square or Piazza della Libertàis in Italian, possible the prettiest location in the city. The views down one end to the Palace and views from the square across the massive hinterland are absolutely gorgeous.

The square will usually be flooded with visitors and I did struggle at times to get photos without masses of bodies being in the foreground.

The square is flanked by buildings from the 14^th Century now contained elegant restaurants and some souvenir shops. At the other end, despite is ancient status are government offices associated with the Palace (Parliament building)

Right in the middle of the square is a statue called Statua della Liberta (Statue of Liberty. Yep, New York isn’t the only place with one of those!

It’s made in the neoclassical style and sculptured from white Carrara marble.  It was sculptured by Stefano Galletti and was donated by Countess Otilia Heyroth Wagener from Berlin to the Republic in 1876, She had recently become Countess of Aquaviva, a town nearby,

Representing Freedom, the statue is quite striking. Look up to its crown and you will see it embellished with three towers representing the fortified city of San Marino, which is also on the city coat of arms.

Interesting fact – this statue is on some of the 2 cent (Euro) coins.

Palazzo Pubblico

For a building that is the Town Hall and also the state Parliament building, you would have expected it to be bigger. Bear in mind that the Republic of San Marino is, however, only 61 square kms in size with a population of 34,000 people.

Therefore, everything has to be in proportion. For me the building is smaller than an average UK Town Hall with about half the number of voters for only one member of the UK Parliament to represent.

The Council here has 60 members to represent the country.

The building is superbly maintained and impressive with its battlement tops and carved insignia in the walls. Would it surprise you that it only dates from 1894? The design is straight out of the 15^th Century Renaissance Italy, deliberately so to blend in with its surroundings.

Inside, that theme is carried on and the cream stonework and wooden beamed roof oozes ancient methods of construction.

Heraldic shields and weapons adorn the walls and despite its fame, there were relatively few of the outside masses venturing inside.

The walkway through the ground floor and up the stone carved stairs invoke history. At one point along the route, you can peer into what was the old Council Chamber that originally held 11 representatives. Their seating against the wall and the two urns representing the two simultaneously elected Presidents on the oak carved table, are quiet atmospherical.

Why two Presidents, who each serve a 6 month term? Well, apparently it is to prevent too much power being placed in the hands of one person and thus counterbalances any possible excess of authority.

Carry on the route and you enter into another much bigger chamber that holds the current enlarged number of members. Modern leather chairs, microphones and electrical equipment reveal that this is where the Parliament members sit,

The walls are highly decorative invoking past styles and there is even a chimney piece (unused).

The front wall of the debating chamber holds a huge fresco of St Marino watching over the attendees.

As I was leaving, I saw guards in traditional military uniforms assembling inside. I stopped and wondered what was happening. I watched as four of them formed a line from orders from the leader, then starting marching, arms swinging and rifles supported towards the front door.

I realised that I was witnessing the changing of the guard ceremony – something I was not aware happens. Yet another case of right time, right place.

I got in some pics then discreetly moved over to a big side window. Ahead of me were hundreds of tourists waiting for the ceremony – they clearly did know it was happening. I had a vantage grandstand view. all alone from the window, right onto the ceremony with no crowd. Talk about luck.

I got more pics in and then pictured the end result of the final guard standing to attention on guard outside – what luck!

That was day one completed. It was late afternoon and I was feeling weary from all the uphill climbing and the warm sun was taking its toll on me.

I decided to head back to the hotel, bearing in mind this would be a 30 mins walk back, but at least it was downhill!

Nearer the hotel I passed by a small corner grocery stall/souvenir shop. I peered into the exterior glass cabinet at what I thought was just souvenirs.

Yes, some were, but there were also novelty bottles of beer. I chuckled to myself to see that they were all tongue-in-cheek labels dedicated to world dictators. I just had to get a photo of them – Stalin and Mussolini beer! I wonder what they taste like?

Day two in San Marino

Up early and breakfasted I set out on my uphill hike again. This route was now familiar, so seemed shorter. Previously I had wondered if I should take a taxi to get there quicker and asked at reception how much it should roughly cost. The reply back of around 20 Euros for what would be a 5 mins journey was enough to convince me I was better walking. I was warned that taxis are expensive here. That 20 Euros would be better spent on something to snack on and drink later.

Retracing my steps, I now took the shorter route to get back to where I finished the trail yesterday. There are occasionally short cuts up alternative routes and sometimes flights of steps between levels to avoid you having to take the long winding route round the mount upwards.

I arrived at the first place I wanted to visit today.

Basilica of San Marino

This is the main church of the city and is dedicated to San Marino (Saint Marino). It does get confusing that San Marino is the name of the country, the city and the founder and Patron of the city.

It was built in 1838 to replaces a much smaller church from the 7^th Century here. That 7^th C one replaced one from the 4^th C – there is a lot of history on this one plot of land!

Such is its fame of the Basilica that Pope John-Paul visited it in 1982 and blessed the relic of San Marino kept inside.

In the first pic, see that doorway at the top of the flight of stairs to the right.

That is the small Church of St Peter and dates from 600 AD originally, Inside are carved niched that are reputedly where San Marino had his bed. In the second pic, San Marino’s remains are reputedly stored under that altarpiece.

Inside, it is a classically styled Church with 16 columns running the length of the main nave supporting a wonderfully illuminated panelled vaulted ceiling in white and beige.

At the other end of the nave from the altar, is an equally impressive organ, situated high in the wall.

Alongside the Nave and in small alcoves are various chapels and shrines dedicated to several saints and memorials to long dead, past, influential dignitaries of the city.

The proportions of symmetry and colour is quite remarkable, they blend in well together in equal amounts. The whiteness of the painted walls and ceiling convey a plainness that accentuates the columns, religious paintings and icons vividly

Remember that the Republic of San Marino has two Presidents (officially called Captain-Regent). Well, they have a dual throne in an alcove in the church – notice the two cushions!

Castle and cliffs

From the Basilica it is another winding walk up beautifully pedestrianised and restored streets to reach the summit of the Mount.

Here is one of the three towers that San Marino is famous for. So much so, that they are represented on the national flag and coat of arms.

It’s an almost Disneyesque picturesque sight. The stone flagged floors and small walls run along the cliff edge on this part of the Mount.

There are small gardens, varying level walkways (bring stout shoes and be prepared for a mini workout on those steps!) and a free transportation back to the 15th century in the views.

This side of the Mount is drastically different to the other side that we have been gradually ascending to reach this point. One side is full of the terraced and winding roads that rise to the summit, where we have been. Whereas this side is a virtual cliff drop

Once at the to there is an almost sheer drop down a massive cliff face on the other side rather than a similar gently descent.

Standing atop here at the summit gives you unparalleled views without obstruction on either side. You can actually see the coastline on the horizon and Rimini alongside, some 15 km away, as the crow flows.

I am not good with heights, and although there are low walls to protect you, it did feel a little unnerving standing on the edge of that precipice looking down, but what a view!

Even at the top here, there are a few eateries and snack places, discreetly placed in the old buildings and one on a vast open top terrace overlooking the area and countryside. I decided that 20 Euros I would have spent on a taxi should be spent here at the summit café with coffee and cake ….. there’s always time for coffee and cake on any of my trips!

City walls and Towers

There is a route that takes you along the cliff edge, beside or on the city walls to yet more ancient buildings, towers and defences.

I’m going to let you scroll through the views I got on the route. I hope they give you the impression of the strength and majesty of these walls and towers. A picture tells a thousand stories!

The walk takes around 40 mins and again is on stone or bare ground but the sights are impressive.

Massive defensive walls shoot up to one side. Fortified buildings built of beautiful grey granite like blocks intersperse your route. At several points you enter into semi-forests of tall tress and lush vegetation on the route and you even get to walk through the walls via a dramatic archway to the other side.

I recommend stout shoes and even a bottle of water with you if it’s a hot day as the steps, inclines and declines, whilst safe, can be exerting on your feet.

Walk slowly, admire the views, as there are many at each turning and do not rush. At points the number of people will thin out and you can feel the atmosphere of these ancient walls and towers.

The final stretch is much more rugged but still walkable and you arrive at yet more reconstructed and restored massive defensive towers, with yet more views over the countryside from the ledges.

At the end is a section that feels more like city walls rather than mountain walls. It descends down into the city itself, off the summit and forest clad areas.

You can look down from the walls into gardens and rooftops and there is even a section that descends via steps down around 100 metres, ending at the roadside and one of the other gates into the city itself.

It is here that I left the walls (they actually end here also) and walked down the street further to my next stop

Plaza Sant’ Agata

I include these photos because, I just loved this area. The square is named after Saint Agata (Agatha) and has one side with a small ancient tower and battlements overlooking the slope below and countryside.

On the other is a fabulous multilevel building with steps taking you to the next floor entry.

In front are the old archways supporting the above walkway and in front is a carved bronze and stone statue to five times Captains-Regents of the Republic (President) in the 18th century, Girolamo Gozi. He played an important role to re-establish the independency and the rights of San Marino.

Then to the final side is a small but culturally important building.

Teatro Titano

This theatre that performs concerts, theatre productions and musicals was built back in 1750. Now fully renovated in 1982 in seats 315 spectators and puts on a full repertoire of productions.

Its smallness and lack of overt embellishment, added to its charm on what is a less touristy and followed route up to the castle walls.

This was my last stop on my visit here and my legs were telling me it was time to rest.

I was near the exit now so the short walk back to the hotel and a more early arrival back was more than welcome.

Leaving San Marino

My leaving time was the the morning after exploring the city walls and after a lazy breakfast, I relaxed in my room until official checking-out time.

For once I was in no hurry, as I had the whole day to get back to Rimini, for my afternoon fight back to London.

My bus back to Rimini left a couple of minutes’ walk away from my hotel, so that was an easy journey back. I then only had to cross over the road to a bus stop on the other side and await my bus to the airport. Having already done the route in reverse, I was feeling quite at ease at negotiating public transport and knowing where to go.

Once at the airport I settled in and awaited my flight, Disappointed that the flight was announced as two hours delay, I had to amuse myself in what was one of the smallest airports I had been in.

A look at the departure board revealed that there was a grand total of 4 flights leaving this airport today! Clearly the delay was nothing to do with the airport.

Once out on the tarmac and waiting to board the plane, I looked over at the horizon – I could see the Mount of San Marino in the distance. The three summits along the edge were clearly visible.

It just brought back to me how close San Marino is to Rimini (in Italy) and the airport.

My thoughts on San Marino

San Marino is a setting in itself. It’s dotted with ancient buildings and meticulously preserved streets and buildings. As I said before you would think you were back in the 15^th Century from your surroundings (if you can ignore the tourists).

It is on a par with Dubrovnik and Venice as one of those cities encapsulated in time, preserved in a historical bubble and full of atmosphere.

The city is on a Mount so walking up and down can be exhausting in the sun if you are an avid trekker/walker like me but so, so rewarding.

If you need a map, here’s a handy one to print off  – San Marino map

It’s easy enough to see it all in a day (at a push with an early start and late finish. I would not advise that as the pace needed would be fast. Spend two days and do it at leisure. You will be surprised at how many times you will want to just stop and look at the latest gracefully old building in front of you.

Many places are short stops inside as there are no massive museums and international art galleries that take hours to go round, but do not miss getting to the summit and walking the walls.

What it will cost you in legwork and calories is more than compensated in views and memories afterwards.

Sept 2018

Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.