South Korea – Seoul

Flight to Seoul from Taipei

I flew into Seoul Incheon Airport from Taipei, Taiwan on Asiana Airlines.

This was my first time on Asiana and it was quite an enjoyable flight. It’s only 2.5 hours between the two cities so I was not expecting luxury and huge legroom (I am 6 feet /1.83 metres tall), for such a short distance. However, the legroom was great, service fast and efficient and the whole flight very comfortable.

I’ve had much worse experience on short haul European flights so this flight was impressive.

However I did notice that this flight cost twice the price as my Osaka to Taipei flight with Tigerair.. Ok, Tigerair is a budget airline but the distance was exactly the same and the difference in quality was minimal.  Needless to say, I am still impressed with Tigerair prices and quality and Asiana just showed that these S.E. Asia based airlines really have got their act together impressively.

Arrival at Seoul Incheon Airport

I just had to take this pic.

As I wandered through the arrival area I passed by a bank.

I had South Korean currency on me but I wondered if I should have taken out more, As I looked up and saw the sign for “Woori bank”, the lettering of “Worry Bank” crossed my mind due to the similarity of spelling.

I’m sure the bank is fine but it did give me a chuckle on arrival – a good or bad omen?

I took it as a good omen that I was going to enjoy Seoul ….. and I was completely right in that assumption.

Catch the train into Seoul from the airport

Just remember than whilst Incheon Airport is highly regarded in airport circles for its modern design, services and facilities, it is 60km from the centre of Seoul. It’s situated on an island in the bay and two long road and rail bridges travel overwater to reach the island (an adventurous vista in itself).

The quickest and most comfortable way to access the airport is via the modern AREX train link to Seoul central station.

There are two service that operate on the same line. The Express is virtually non-stop and takes 45 mins, leaves every 30-45 mins and costs 9,000 won (about £5.50/$7.50).

The all-stop train however takes an hour, leaves every 5-15 mins and is cheaper at 4,150 won (about £2.50/$3.50). Luckily, each of the last 8 stations into the city on the all-stop train, have a Metro link. Thus you may not need to go right into the centre, depending on where your hotel is.

These Trains are a great modern introduction to this city of diverse styles. They travel over the sea causeway bridge across the bay, so if you arrive in daylight, that is one helluva panorama to take in before you even get to the city!

Just be aware that Korean Rail (KTX) also operate inter-city train routes from the airport too. These trains go direct to major cities, so make sure you are catching an AREX train to Seoul city centre or you may have a long journey back!

Where I stayed in Seoul

I did my usual intensive investigation into getting a good hotel at a cheap price in a decent area of the city.

Like Tokyo, central branded hotels here are very expensive. Forget any international chain as they were way out of my budget so I searched by price and star quality and the choices were somewhat limited. Four and five star hotels were coming in at high prices and so I had to slip down to 3 star ones.

These were within my budget but often they were further out from the centre than I wanted or were not near a Metro station for easy access into the city. I was however impressed with the pictures of these 3 star places – they looked modern, decent and the room pics and reviews were good.

One however stood out. In some agencies it was 3 stars, in other a strange 3.5 and others a 4.The pictures were of a very modern, stylish hotel, 5 mins from the Metro and the plethora of reviews were very good.

I looked on other sites to see if this was the same and yep, decent price, good pics and also good reviews. I was a little concerned that it was classed as a 3 star but in the end the price and location won me over.

IBC Hotel Seoul

To say it was a good choice would be an understatement – it was great

A short walk from the Metro and surrounded by stores, a couple of Malls, eateries galore and even some Western food outlets if I wanted cheap and cheerful.

On arrival, I was pleased that the exterior glass box atrium entrance and external art work was immaculately clean and stylish.

Inside, the receptionists spoke excellent English and were immaculately groomed and uniformed in a spacious, incredibly light and designer- led lobby with a beautiful Café at the far end. I did use the Café and it was busy with some very well=dressed regulars and business men. I was more than content.

The room was immaculately clean, modern simple lines in style (we are in South Korea where minimalism is king remember, just like it was earlier in my trip in Japan). The bathroom ultra- modern, even with robes and slippers. The wifi was great, the room snuggly warm on what was a cold day and even a safe and kettle and coffee stuff. Beautiful

The breakfast was plentiful, varied and in another stylishly modern bar/restaurant area on the second floor, that doubled as the lunchtime/bar setting for guests with great daily deals advertised. It however wasn’t open in the evening which I would have loved. I instead took a walk down the street and had bountiful places to chose from along the toad and in the Mall.

It was an ideal location on a busy road, but I asked for and got a very quiet room at the back, which I loved.

There is even a good gym and a spotlessly clean and modern coin operated laundrette. There is also a small, exquisite convenience shop attached to the back of the hotel if you need snacks, served by a great guy who chatted to me in perfect English. I loved the set-up.

I had pre-booked my day trip up to the border with North Korea via a tour Co and the receptionist happily called them to check their pick-up time at the hotel and called me when they arrived. The day trip to the JSA (Joint Security Area) – where you see the presidents etc shake hands across the borderline was not available so I settled for the DMZ trip (area around the border area but not including the JSA area.

At the time, trips to the JSA have to be booked well in advance with evidence of passports etc provided and done through only a few specialist agencies. It is also a lot more expensive for this highly regulated trip.

I would definitely recommend this hotel for the quality and style. In my view it is definitely a four star hotel – I checked recently and the prices were now at the higher end compared to similar 4 star hotels. Don’t know why – perhaps the quality has been recognised or that I just got a fantastic deal!

Here’s the link on Expedia to check them out, click here

A little bit about the history of Seoul

To understand a bit about present-day Seoul, you really need to look back in history.

Why is there a distinct lack of buildings from before the 1930s. (hint – war destruction)? Why are there so few historic buildings, apart from the Palaces considering this has been a major city since the 14th Century. Why is there a North and South Korea rather than one Korea? Why is there a heightened sense of security and preparation for invasion/attack?

Read on and I hope to explain this all.

So, I knew Seoul was a large, modern city but when I read up on it I was quite surprised at some of the accolades it has received over the years.

Quoted as Asia’s most liveable city, the 4^th biggest urban economic centre in the world but also one of the most expensive property cities on the planet. It hosts the fifth tallest building in the world.

It has one of the best quality of living standards in the world and is currently home to nearly 10 million people as the capital, and largest city, of South Korea. Samsung, LG and Hyundai are based here.

WOW, I never knew and this fired me up even more to want to explore this city.

So, how did this mega-city come about.

Well, you know I love a bit of history, so read on if you want to know.

Its origins date back to 4000 BC as a settlement. In 18BC it was established as the capital city of one of the then 3 Kingdoms that now roughly make up the present-day North/South Korea and a part of China.

One of those Kingdoms (the largest) was called Goryeo from which the modern-day name Korea is derived – interesting eh?

The city, over the centuries, was called Wiryeseong, Hanja, Hanyang, Hanseong and Keijo (the last one under the Japanese occupation from 1910).

It actually did not get its present name until after WW2, in 1945, when it was named as a variation of the ancient word for “capital city” i.e. Seorabeol.

In the 11^th century it formed a major city of the then conquering Silla Kingdom, roughly what is today just north and South Korea. An Imperial palace was then built here to denote its importance.

From 1302 it was governed by the Joseon Emperor dynasty for the next 500 years, until it changed its name to the Korean Empire in 1897.

After centuries of isolation the city opened itself up in the late 19^th century and received the admiration of many Westerners for its traditional but remarkably, tidy, clean and organised environment. It was the first city in East Asia to introduce electricity (actually in the Royal Palace).

Japan invaded and took over all of Korea in 1910 which lasted until they lost WW2 in 1945. They renamed the city for their own purposes but this was removed when they surrendered.

Most of us probably now the rest of the history of this region. War broke out between the Communist Chinese/Russian supported North Korea and the American/West supported South Korea. The Korean War lasted from 1950 to1953 when a UN brokered armistice was set up.

Actually, there never was a termination of the war. A ceasefire/truce was arranged and a border line set up that holds to the present day. The two countries are still officially at war.

The city was lost and retaken several times by each side but the end result at the end of the war was a totally devastated city of rubble and mass refugee status.

Today that destruction is revealed in the apparent relative newness you feel when you wander around the city. There is a distinct lack of old buildings except the restored Palaces and Shrines.

In the 1960s and 70s, Seoul underwent unprecedented industrialisation, expansion and economic acceleration. It became a world economy and that is reflected in its buildings and affluent lifestyle today.

It is now more densely populated than New York and one of the most densely populated cities in the world. Presently 49% of the population of South Korea live in the extended greater-metropolitan area of Seoul. This is one massive city, something I had not fully appreciated until I visited it.

So, having arrived and checked into my hotel, (luckily they let me in earlier as my room was ready), I was itching to explore this city.

My first site was just a few Metro stops away from the nearest station to the hotel, so that was a great choice of location for my stay!

Changdeokgung Palace

This was the second Palace that was built for Royalty in Seoul. The first and oldest being Gyeongbokgung about a km to its west. Consequently, this Palace is also referred to as the East Palace,

The legend has it that the Palace was ordered to be built in 1405 (taking 7 years to complete), because, in a power struggle, the King had killed his half-brothers in the old Palace ad couldn’t bear to live there.

Just remember the Joseon Dynasty of Emperors ruled Korea for 500 years from the 14th Century and they actually built 5 Palaces to live in at various times.

A lot of what we are going to see is a faithful reconstruction of the original. Despite being continuously extended by Emperors over the centuries the site experienced massive, devastating fires in 1592 and 1623. It certainly didn’t help when the Japanese invaded, took over the country from 1910-45, and tore down 70% of the structures.

Walking around, however, you would never know that these buildings are largely renovations from the last 50 years.

The massive multi-tiered roofs of the gate houses are some of the biggest and most impressive structures in the complex as the photos show.

The buildings are numerous and the rooms extensive (you can only go in a few of them however). I can’t give a running commentary on which building is which in the pics as there are too many – also Korean Imperial architecture is not my strong point!

Suffice to say that this Palace incorporated libraries, audience chambers, private Imperial quarters, administrative buildings, cookhouses, guard rooms, gardens and ceremonial buildings.

What is striking as you explore is that the buildings blend into the surrounding slopes and greenery of the site. Apparently, this was intended and is a point of difference from the more regimented and grid pattern of the other Palaces.

The harmony of the size, colours and shapes of the buildings certainly do blend in with the topography of the landscape.

Many areas take on a more village gathering of buildings in their style and outlook.

One area of the grounds has a large lake and what is called a “Secret Garden” (Royalty called it their “Private Garden”). It feels more like an exuberant mini-forest of greenery and trees and the peaceful, rural setting is beautiful.

Walking around here it is deathly silent, with only the chirping of birds to be heard. You would never know that you are in the heart of a major world city.

The throne room seemed quite basic, colourful ….. but basic. A huge wooden raised throne sat at the top of a set of stairs in a very open building.

Leaving the site, I walked through another ginormous fortified gatehouse, past yet more lattice filled windows with large pagoda style roofs.

The site reminded me of the Shrines and Palaces I had seen in the previous weeks in Japan. Here, at this site, it seemed a little more subdued and homely however. The buildings felt less ceremonial and more like actual living quarters.

This had been my first Palace visit in Seoul and I was impressed. The older one was about 1 km away to the west and was next on my list of places to see.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

You can walk from Changdeokgung Palace to the next one in 20 mins or so but as the Metro station was nearby and my time was restricted, I took the Metro.

Alighting from the Metro station, it was clear that this Palace was a different concept altogether. As far as Palaces go, this looked mighty and from the outside more like a fortified, walled mini-city. No wonder it is a UNESCO protected world site of importance.

The Palace was the first built of the 5 under the Joseon Dynasty in 1395. The first Emperor of the Dynasty actually ordered its construction.

Such was its importance that it became not only a Palace but the centre of government of his territories. The necessary admin and governmental buildings were built here and huge and sumptuous private and ceremonial buildings erected. Some 500 buildings with around 7,700 rooms was the eventual size of the complex …… now that’s what I call a Palace!

The style of the Palace incorporated the traditions and culture of the time. Buildings were set in gigantic, square, paved courtyards, the walls were high between sections and the whole complex surrounded by fortified walls and gates.

This is definitely a more grid patterned, rectilinear designed Palace. Less homely and more built to impose and impress. It’s difference to Changdeokgung Palace that I had just come from was noticeable.

All was great here until a war with Japan in 1592 meant that it was burnt and destroyed. The Court and Imperial family moved out – even Changdeokgung Palace down the road was destroyed too.

For the next 273 years the Palace was left abandoned and derelict and in a sorry state.

In 1867 all that changed. The Prince Regent decided to restore the Palace to its original style – virtually every building and rooms were rebuilt and restored copying the original design.  The Imperial family then moved back into the restored Palace.

Just like at Changdeokgung Palace down the road that I visited; the Japanese invasion of 1910 changed it all again. The Palace was seen as a symbol of national sovereignty for the Korean people. Thus, the Japanese, using an excuse that they were to hold a huge exhibition on the land, set about demolishing 90% of the Palace’s structures.

They actually built a new Colonial Government building on the site. Only the Throne Room, a grand Pavilion and a few other buildings survived the carnage.

When the Japanese surrendered and left in 1945 the site still housed its detested Japanese Govt buildings. The Korean War of 1950-53 saw further destruction of more buildings.

In 1989 the South Korean Govt decided to restore the site and rebuilt the original buildings. It demolished the Japanese Colonial Govt building in 1995 and by 2009 had restored 40% of the site to its former glory.

There is a plan to fully complete the project by 2030

The gatehouse you see here was completely restored after being demolished. Even in a rebuilt state it is wonderfully majestic.

Once through the fortified gate house, you enter into a huge square with high walled buildings lining the perimeter. In front of you, in the centre lies a huge pagoda roofed building with steps and calligraphed writing etched into a stone tablet.

This square is overwhelmingly huge and is only the first of several you will encounter as you move through the grounds.

The throne Room is similar to Changdeokgung Palace’s – a wooden structure surmounted on a large pedestal with wooden stairs. However, the roof height is much higher and extensively painted.

As you walk around the grounds from square to square, you notice that whilst the buildings are one storey high as in Changdeokgung Palace, the walls are much taller, the roofs much bigger and more elaborately curved and the building itself much bigger.

Then you enter into a section that has a very different style of design.

Here the buildings had half walls of stone and bricks rather than wood and surmounted by heavier stone or brick walls, brightly coloured and lower roofs. Was this a fire prone areas, so had I actually stumbled on the cooking area.

At various points you could look into the wide-open doorways and windows, deliberately opened for display purposes.

Inside the contents showed that the buildings was an office, a sleeping area or a relaxation/private residence.

The grounds continue in a grid pattern and eventually you arrive at a grand pavilion surrounded by a wide moat – its almost like the building is sitting inside a small lake

The grounds are somewhat bare but with the backdrop is of Mount Bugak majestically and imposingly rising to the skies. It is a hugely picturesque site and the fringes of local trees add to the uniqueness of the panorama.

There is a small section of buildings that have side walls with small entrances, giving this area a village -like appeal, especially noticeable after the grandeur of the buildings you have just passed.

They are also quite colourful with painted walls and decorated roof eaves.

Finally, you enter into an area of separate, long buildings with what look like white paper screen window blinds and plain curved roofs. These are set round small open areas with grassed side areas and paved walkways.

Nearby are ornamental waterways and stone flat bridges crossing them and connecting nearby area.

On leaving the site you again walk through mighty a fortified gate house, this one has its entrance set at ground level. The walls and roof eaves are very decorative in a dominance of greens and browns.

Today had been a real “Palace Parade” and I had enjoyed seeing these two Palaces immensely.

I did appreciate the difference in style of the two Palaces, not always discernible to the untrained eye. Maybe my exposure to similar styles of architecture in the previous weeks in Japan and Taiwan had taught me a few things about the designs of this region.

The day was now over as far as sightseeing was concerned. My legs were definitely telling me that, so I made my way back to the Metro station. On the way I passed by the National Palace Museum of Korea in the grounds of the Palace I felt however I had seen enough of Palaces for today …. Maybe another day.

The next day came all to soon and after breakfast I set out for the nearby Metro station to my next vist a few stops away.

Seoul City Hall

The old City Hall/Library was built in 1925, in a Japanese Imperial Crown design – traditional blocky angular stone work of the 1920’s we see in Europe also. Remember Korea was under occupation by the Japanese from 1910 to 1945.

The square outside has a huge green circle lawn surrounded by an encircling paved walkway where events and exhibitions are often held.

The new city Hall was opened in 2012 and is a particularly eye-catching building.

It was built here right next to the old City Hall which it now seems to teeter over and somewhat envelope in its curving shape. The old City Hall was converted to the City Library when the administration moved into its new building.

The buildings definitely clash in style next to each other, and although I’m a fan of new buildings, the two jar next to each other.

The dark glass panels and steel frame of the new building have an almost alien aspect to them. An enormous glass eye appears to be sticking out from one side and the individual flat panes in an irregular geometric pattern, as part of the curved façade, reflected light at various angles.

In many ways I preferred the Old City Hall design on the outside. It seemed more regal and imposing as I expect govt buildings to be. The new one looked more like the creative end of a shopping mall or even an inspiring airport terminal.

The inside of the new City Hall, however, is very different,

They were clearly trying to be more eco-friendly with its massive curtain wall of foliage with light streaming in through the glass panelled wall supported by white steel beams.

A couple of huge artistic works hung down from the ceiling and the effect was quite a blend of futuristic design meets eco needs. I rather liked it.  For me the inside was more interesting than the outside.

Its free to enter the new building and wander around to appreciate its internal styling.

Once outside, I could reassess the building on its merits, having seen the good credentials of its internal eco-style …. Maybe it wasn’t so unstylish after all!

Deoksugung Palace 

Right opposite the square that City Hall and the Library sit on is the grand entrance to a Royal Palace.

Bear with me, as I hear your squeals of “not another Palace”. This one is different from the others … kinda … and has some fun features not found at the other two you have read about here.

A fun feature – well, at 11:00, 14:00 and 15:00, there is a ceremonial changing of the guard outside the main gate on the large public area in front. It’s free to watch, so make sure you arrive there just before any of the three times for this feature.

Guards are dressed in traditional colourful robes with appropriately traditional beards and headdresses and it is real spectacle to watch. They parade and march, accompanied by ceremonial drum beatings, shouted orders and carrying long, piked staffs and then proceed through the gates.

In ancient times these guards were empowered to ceremonially open and close the Royal gates and that tradition has been revived for tourists – although locals delight in watching as well.

I didn’t know about this but and it started just as I arrived – talk about right place, right time …..  brilliant!

Ok, this Palace has history too, although in a different way.

Originally it was not a Palace, just a group of well-to-do houses, which housed minor Royals from the 14^th century. It came into its own when the other two Palaces (Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung) were burnt down during the Japanese invasion in 1562 – remember we discussed that in the previous chapters here. Well, when that happened the Imperial family decamped to here and it was then classed as a temporary Palace.

In 1618, they all moved out of slumming it here when Changdeokgung Palace was rebuilt. They kept the complex under their control and renamed it West Palace (maybe just in case they needed it again ….. and guess what!).

Deoksugung Palace was reused again in 1897 after the Emperor’s wife was assassinated by Japanese agents and the Royal family abandoned their Palace and, after a brief year under Russian protection in the city, moved here for safety. The last Emperor of the Dynasty lived here until his death.

The Japanese invaded in 1910 and just like they did with the other two Royal Palaces they set about destroying and altering this this one too. The area was reduced by a third and 90% of the buildings demolished.

The Emperor was allowed to reside here in the newly completed Western style building in 1910 and another classically styled Western building for a museum was built in the grounds. The complex effectively became a park and even Royal buildings were converted for public use eg a café was established.

Since the 1980’s there has been a programme of restoration of the Palace which is ongoing even today

Again, I’m not going to do a building-by-building review of this complex – like I said before in the other Palace complexes there are loads of buildings (mostly rebuilt or restored and I am not an expert in this field.

Suffice to say the first section of the Palace is the oldest. You even get to walk over a wide flat bridge that used to have water running below. Every Palace has this as it symbolises a cleansing action as you enter the sanctity of the Royal grounds. The one here dates from 1411 and is the oldest bridge in Seoul.

Huge pagoda tiled roofs on brown wooden walled structures abound and like the other Palaces has staterooms, libraries, relaxation Pavilions, private bedrooms etc dotted around the area. Just wander and take in the atmos – you can’t get lost in the enclosed area and there is much to see.

There is a relaxing landscaped section with trees, low walled buildings and small archways dividing gardens that is adorable. Just listen and you can hear nature, birds singing and peace and quiet. Like the other Palaces, you don’t hear the hustle and bustle of the outside urban city

The throne room of this place is more sombre and more intricate. Browns golds adorn the artefacts rather than the reds and blues we saw in the other Palaces.

The last Emperor was a modernising one. He installed electricity in the Palace (the first place in Seoul to get it), and built a modern European style terraced metal Pavilion and in 1905 started the work on new accommodation for the Imperial family.

A new classic style Western building was built with Doric columns, a triangular roofed portico and in white stone. The designer was a British architect

It still stands today although now houses a Museum about the Palace. I didn’t go in as there was plenty to see outside. He also set out formal gardens in front of the building with lawns and a central fountain.

The Japanese built a museum next door in 1938 and it still stands today as the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art – quite a setting in this part of the grounds.

The gardens can be somewhat bare here with the sandy open ground and trees making it feel somewhat abandoned. However, these areas are the unrestored ones so maybe they will contain something more in future years.

Want to see another fun feature?

Well, for this one you have to go outside the Palace walls,

The road that runs around the Palace perimeter is of a beautiful beige/grey stone block design, surmounted by a tiled roof ledge. It is immaculately restored and a walk along the long route throws you back to the 15^th Century.

Ok, in parts there are modern buildings on the other side of the road but many parts have correspondingly low walls on the other side.

The fun element? According to legend anyone who walks along the route with a partner will break up with them soon. If you are with your partner maybe you should walk the route separately!

On one section of the walkway there are often stalls selling craftworks and foodstuffs. Today they were selling knit wares and embroided blankets.

The stall holders had a great way of displaying their goods by neatly and carefully wrapping them around the trunks of the trees that lined the road. It made a unique and colourful show of all the beautiful patterns.

For my last visit of the day, it meant a 25 mins walk along spotlessly clean and tidy residential streets to get to the base of the huge hill in central Seoul.

Was I going to take the long and arduous walk up the hiking trail to the top? Nope, I had a much easier and enjoyable plan to reach the top to see something at the very summit

Namsan Seoul Cable Car

I took the Namsan Cable Car to get to the summit of Namsan Park, a wonderful oasis of green trees and vegetation in the heart of the city. The park itself can be reached by a 2 km uphill walk but the cable car can do it in about 5 mins for the cost of 13500 Korean Won return trip (about £8/$11). The uphill walk is steep in places so attempt it only if you are fit enough.

I chose the easy way by cable car to save time. The car can get busy and they have no problem with filling then full so it can be a bit claustrophobic if you hate crowds.

Make sure you get in first so you can nab a space near the big picture windows as otherwise you will have to peer over heads and shoulders to get a view as you ascend/descend.

Today was a bit hazy so my ascent did not give me the best of views and the car was quite full. However, the haziness cleared once at the top so I got the panorama I was expecting. Click here for the website if you need opening times, fares, directions etc

N Seoul Tower 

So once at the top of Namsan hill, there was something else to visit.

The 236 metre tall tower here, was completed in 1969 as a radio and TV broadcasting tower – the first in Seoul. By 1980 it had also become a tourist attraction with the addition of an observation deck at the top.

Nowadays there’s also a revolving restaurant at the top that takes 46 mins for a complete revolution and masses of eateries and souvenirs stores in the lobby areas on the two-level Plaza area below.

The area around the base of the tower gives great views across the city from the boardwalks and walkways (the views from the top of the tower are amazing however). The walkways up the mountain arrive here and you can see the walls and good condition of the trail down if you decide to attempt it.

There is a long wooden terrace where the “Locks of Love” can be found. Just like in many cities (usually the fencing on a bridge however), here lovers can place a padlock denoting their love for eternity.

It seems like it has become so popular that the fence has run out of space and now large cone shaped stands are available to lock you padlock to … cute, eh?

In the lobby is the ticket hall to take the lift up to the top- be aware it can get very busy. I was there on a relatively quiet day and the queue was long but quite fast moving.

Once at the top you have the fantastic views over the city of Seoul and off to the far distance.

The panorama is eye-popping. You can see right to the suburbs and its one of the furthest distances I’ve ever seen from a tower – only the tallest one in the world in Dubai would probably match it.

This is because you are not only up a 236 metre tall tower, that tower is on the top of a mountain in the centre of the city. In total you are 479 metres above sea level.

The views were a little hazy as the day had condensation in the air from the coolness of the weather, but I was agog at the layout of the city below. It really shows how big and concentrated Seoul is as a metropolis.

I’ve lost count of the number of observation decks of tall towers I’ve been on round the world, probably 20-25 but this was an amazing one for the views. The added interested is that you are looking down from the tower to the mountain that you were previously looking up at from street-level near the cable car station.

Seoul shopping area

Once I descended the tower it was getting dark and it was definitely time to head back to the hotel.

My route to the Metro station took me by one of the main shopping areas of Seoul and it was buzzing with people, even in the evening.

I stopped by to take in the neon lights, busyness, food stalls lining the street and gather the general ambiance of the area. People were thronging the streets and it felt buzzing with activity and voices that gave me the thrill of being back in a metropolis after the quietness of the tower.

I stopped off and bought battered shrimp in a paper cone at the stall in the pic. Other stalls enticed me in and I was happily pointing (I don’t speak Korean) and indicating how many of other foodstuffs I wanted.

After eating them all, I was full and deliciously so too – maybe the fact that the hotel wasn’t serving evening food was a godsend after all, as the choice on offer here was plentiful and scrummy!

The Metro station was just down the road and off I headed back to the hotel for some well-earned rest. I was loving Seoul and day two had been as joyful as day one here.

Sadly, I had one day left before my flight back to London and home and tomorrow I was going to see something I had wanted to see all my life. I knew I had to be up early for that one, so bedtime was going to be a little earlier than normal tonight.

DMZ Imjingak South Korea

The DMZ is a weird place to visit. It is effectively a no-man’s land about 40 km north of Seoul.

As North and South Korea never signed a Peace Agreement they are effectively still at war. However, after the war, the 1953 Korean War Armistice Agreement meant that the two sides ceased armed encounters with each other.

A 257 km long border was established and a DMZ or Demilitarised Zone about 3 km wide on each side of the border fence was created. It means that a huge unoccupied “wasteland” exists between the two countries. The border only meets with buildings in the JSA – Joint Security Area, where a large hut like building stretches across the border and both sides can meet whenever needed to discuss issues.

The DMZ is thus also a massive tourist attraction as everyone wants to get as close to North Korea as legally and physically possible to see ….. well …. the other side!

Thus, the DMZ welcomes around 1.2 million visitors every year, despite being one of the most heavily fortified borders in the world.

You can’t just rock up to the border and say hi.

You have to go on a pre-planned and booked tour with an authorised private or group tour. You can book online in advance – in fact you virtually have to as numbers are limited. I did that.

If you want to go to the JSA that’s a different ball game. Passports have to be sent in advance, checked and authorised before you get there – that can take a few weeks. I couldn’t be without my passport so had to just be happy with seeing the DMZ.

The tour company picked me up from my hotel and we passed through Seoul stopping at other hotels on the way for more passengers on the tour. We ended up being quite a United Nations of different nationalities and I was seated next to an American airline pilot who was there with friends for a few days. We chatted about our travels and it was good to have company onboard for what was a near full day tour.

Passports have to be provided to the tour guide as they need to be checked and these are handed back at the end. Scary to not be in possession of my passport for a while so I carried back up ID e.g. drivers licence just in case something went wrong (like I missed the coach pick up while on the tour etc).

The tours are great and really informative. The guide will point out various things on the way and explain what you are about to see when you get off the coach in the many different places of importance. They also accompany you as a group in sensitive areas and warn you when you are about to enter a no photos area.

So, we set off through Seoul’s heavy but fast-moving traffic and into countryside. Being just 40 km away we arrived at the first site quickly.

On the way the guide informed us that a NK defector had managed to secretly get across tthe border section exctly where we were going, the day before. The NK guards detected him at the last minute and shot at him, seriously imjuring him, but he still manged to cross the line. He was now in a SK hospital recovering.

I had heard about this on the news the night before and wondered if it would affect our trip today.

She warned us to be extra careful and considerate as tensions were still high and we may not be able to visit all areas due to the heightened security.

As it turned out, everything was fine and we saw everthting as usual, but what a coincidence for me. No-one crosses the border for years and suddenly someone does it the night before I go to see it all!

Imjingak is a bit of an anomaly. You arrive at a huge car/coach park and disembark. To one side is a big amusement park …. I kid you not. The border has become so touristified that they have even set up an amusement park here – mainly for kids. Do people get bored here that they need this entertainment? Weird!

There is also a big tourist office, a viewpoint across to the official DMZ area, a museum and a plethora of various memorials to the dead of the Korean War and to hopes of friendship across the border.

A modern train station stands to one side also.

The monuments are scattered around various areas and you can walk between them. They are mainly commemorating lives lost by various soldiers of different countries’ battalions There is a Pavilion in ancient Korean style with a large curved pagoda style roof. Underneath is a huge hanging Peace Bell. There are also shops and cafes.

I really felt I was getting off at a spreading amoeba of a motorway service station with attractions.

We were free to wander and take photos and be back at the coach at a certain time.

There is a section that is more interesting however. Here are the original railway tracks that ran between the two countries and that was used to exchange prisoners. On its track is an old locomotive that was shot almost to pieces on its last trip to prevent it falling into Communist hands.

Nearby, attached to the rusting barbed wire fence are thousands of paper prayer tapes wishing for the reunification of the two countries.

Further along you enter through a turnstile to walk up to the remains of the old bridge that crossed the river towards North Korea called the Freedom Bridge.

Poignantly there is a large white sign stating you are in Imjingak. It has two arrows. One points south to SK and states “Seoul” and the other points north and states “Gaesong,” the nearest NK town.

Look across and you can see an old remnant of the railway with a solitary backdrop of NK.

There is a newer bridge nearby that carries the present train line towards NK. Most trains terminate at Imjingak however. This bridge was built in the advance hope that one day rail service can operate between the two countries again. It is symbolic under the present political impasse between the two countries.

Now we needed to reboard the coach and take the 10 min drive to the next port of call within the DMZ.

The coach tour is great as it ferries you around the most importances sites and you get to see a lot, quite efficiently, but with plenty of time to explore at each place.

Dorasan train station DMZ South Korea

The coach drops us all off at what is the nearest place to the SK fence for the DMZ proper. Thus is as near as you will get to the NK border at ground level.

The big attraction here is the new train station, the last stop before the border. In truth it is a mixture of white elephant/hopes for the future/a practical solution.

Dorosan train station is modern and stylish and spotlessly clean and organised – almost a showhouse of efficiency on the train system in SK.

It is the last stop on the line from Seoul that used to cross the border into NK. In 2007, it used to ferry supplies across the border to factories in Kaesong, 1 km into NK and bring back manufactured goods. It was a project to restart good working relations between the two countries but NK abruptly terminated it all in 2008 after a political spat with the South.

It now stops 650 meters short of the DMZ and is presently a terminus for the train line.

It’s a white elephant as it has been built as the border crossing station into NK in the future – that future time is anyone’s guess! However, it is a hope for the future as there is such a desire by the SK people (and probably the NK people if they were allowed to say), for a reunification of the line.

It is kept functional and ready for that event!

The practical element comes from the fact the roughly four trains a day ply the line to the Dorasan terminal. Others terminate a stop before at Imjingak. Line service however is open to frequent adjustments of timetable – I heard it had been reduced to one train per day recently and stops reaching here altogether if there is a border crisis.

The big neon word sign outside alludes to the future hopes of reconnection to other international lines.

You can go inside the station, buy a ticket for the train, negotiate the turnstiles etc as normal and see the buildings interior and platforms. On my visit it was deserted and just myself ad a few other tourists were wandering the platforms looking at the stationary trains on the line.

The trains were brightly painted with cartoon figures and creative designs – they added a fun element to what was a clinically clean and deserted modern station at the time.

Inside is a graphical representation of what the outside neon worded sign was stating. It showed the hopeful new train lines connecting Seoul, via this station, to NK, China and Russia.

Keeping the dream alive and foremost in everyone’s thoughts, I guess.

The next-door station shop was quite fun. I guess, in the future, it will be selling books, newspapers and sweets/candy for the journey ahead. At present it was making use of the fact that the station is more a tourist site for its fame than a well-used form of public transport. You could buy bars of commemorative chocolate with the DMZ logo on the wrapper. Innovative or what!

All back on the bus again, after our fill of Dorasan and we are off to the next site, 10 mins away.

Dora Observatory DMZ  South Korea

This is a large concrete observation platform for the public built on the side of the highest point in the area – Mount Dorasan.

The 500-person capacity viewing platform is free to enter and a large open terrace gives you panoramic views across the DMZ into NK and on a clear day you can see the buildings of the town of Kaesong in NK.

Binoculars mean that you can get up close to the border and activity (hardly any) inside NK near the border. You can see the huge flagpole with the NK flag fluttering in the foreground – SK has a similar one nearby to counteract its effects.

We could see the SK military observation posts nearby that the public cannot approach and the borderline, railroad and access roads up to the crossing were visible.

It was all so eery, we could see into NK – nothing too much to see except trees, barren land and a few access roads. I was at the most heavily defended border in the world and all was so peaceful and quiet on the ground. I could see no activity and all was so calm.

Propaganda messages and music are blasted across the border to each other from high speakers. It all seems a little weird and unnecessary but that’s politics for you.

It was a bit hazy on the day and often we were looking directly into the sun across the border so the photos here reflect that lighting issue.

Well, this was the most I had seen of NK, we were near the border and it all seemed a bit surreal, gazing across the wilderness, wondering what people on the other side were doing. Probably looking across wondering what we were doing!

There is a small display about the border in a nearby building to wander through but the main attraction here is to be able to effectively see across the border.

Again, back on the bus and off we go for another 10 mins ride. You do get plenty of time at each site and you can do whatever you with relative ease and freedom. The tour was actually quite informative as at each bus ride the guide explained what we would see next and where to go. They didn’t force us to go with them in a snaking line …. just wander and enjoy it at your pace and leisure which I found great.

The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel DMZ  South Korea

This was the only time that the guide had to accompany us on a visit.

We were about to enter a politically sensitive area and we would effectively be as close to the actual border line as you can get on the tour.

You won’t see any photos of the exterior or inside of this attraction as they are not permitted.

This is one of four known tunnels that go under the border line (demarcation line) between the two States, but there are estimated to be around 20 more somewhere.

This is the third one discovered and probably the most famous one.

Access in down a long slope or in a small seated carriage for those less able and it can feel a little cramped.

The tunnel originates in NK and was discovered by SK in 1978. It actually extends over 435 metres into SK territory at a depth of 73 metres underground.

Whilst it is not huge, only around 2 metres high and wide, it would have been enough, if successful, to get 30,000 troops and small arms through into SK every hour. It was intended for a surprise assault on Seoul.

When you get to the bottom you can go right up to the first barricade (effectively a walled up section of the tunnel) and peer through a small window to see further along the tunnel to the second barricade. There is a further barricade at the actual demarcation border line.

You are now as close as you can get to the real border, so NK itself is a few metres away! Only the JSA station manned by the UN and border guards will get you closer.

The area outside has a well-known DMZ display for that Instagram pic.

Warning, the DMZ sign is very popular, I had to wait ages before it cleared of someone waiting to have their pic taken next to it or pulling a stupid pose over it. At one point there was an actual queue of people waiting to pose and have their partner/friend take a pic of them with it. I walked away several times as the queue was long and I didn’t want someone in my pic.

Patience paid off and for about 30 seconds there was a period where no-one was waiting. I got my shot in quickly!

There’s also a sculpture here, again emphasising the wish for unity of the two countries and world Peace.

War Memorial of Korea Seoul 

This Museum, dedicated as a Memorial to all the conflicts that SK has been involved in, is huge. It is apparently the largest of its type in the world.

It is a six floor museum building housing artefacts, equipment and memorabilia from all Korean wars including the ancient ones. The floors are themed so you can choose to see different periods of historical wars or indeed all of them (that would involve a few hours at least. however).

I saw snippets of most but concentrated on the 1950-53 Korean War as it was the one I knew most about, especially having just come from the border that was created as a result of it.

There are over 13,000 items to see if you really want to see them all but I didn’t have the attention capacity for a day here – or the time even.

The Memorial building opened in 1994 and comprises of a huge main building and two very long side buildings surrounded by a small lake/moat. The Colonnaded, almost terrace-like, side buildings contain bronze wall plaques with the names of all the Korean and foreign military personnel killed in the Korean War and the Koreans killed in other wars SK was associated with.

Click here for opening times/tickets etc 

A poignant, sombre memorial plaque states “We will remember the noble sacrifice of the soldiers who joined the UN forces to fight for freedom and peace!”.

Inside the artefacts are presented in cases or as a central display and there are far too many to photo so I have picked just a few here. A massive ancient drum caught my eye in one room and the uniform of a British Army soldier worn during the Korean War drew me in, in another room (I am a Brit after all!).

A war scene painting also caught my attention, semi- propaganda, semi-realist, semi-rural artistry – it was a thought provoking artwork.

Outside, open-air sculptures, statues and memorial structures filled the gardens. A symbolic bullet, sliced in two held a prominent position with its clear message.

Bronze soldiers depicted in action, brotherly help in wounded scenarios and more symbolic memorials dotted the open grounds. In the lake were small military patrol boats and even a mini-submarine.

As I turned a corner in the grounds, I came across a sight I had never seen before. A mass of military hardware ranging from jeeps to bomber planes filled the area to the perimeter.

You can wander around and even touch many of the instruments. I saw tanks, armoured personnel carriers, ground-to-air missile embankments, jeeps, fighter jets and even a B52 bomber (one of only three outside the USA). The amount and variety of armaments is staggering.

There is weaponry from the Communist forces as well as the democratic forces and it was the first time I had been close up to a Russian MIG fighter.

Whilst the armoury here could be interpreted as a glorification of war it is actually supposed to show you the extent to which humankind equip themselves to kill each other and to show the futility of these machines against the destruction they caused.

On leaving the grounds I noticed a symbolic peace bell hanging from what I thought was a modern interpretation of a bell holder. Look again and you realise it is the letters of u and n (UN, for United Nations) forming the structure for a peace bell. Quite an artistic symbolism indeed.

The Metro station was nearby – I love the efficiency of Seoul’s Metro – and I took it, with one change of line, to my next destination.

Parliament Building area Seoul

As I surfaced from the National Assembly Metro station, I could see the Parliament Building ahead of me in the distance,

As far as parliament buildings go this one is relatively new, having been completed in 1975.

It definitely stands out, as the structure has 24 white granite columns supporting a large eaved roof with a conspicuous blue/green dome rising from the centre of the building. The inside walls are white and multi-windowed. A curious combination of Classic Greek, Korean and modern.

You can go inside (passport ID needed) and tour but I only wanted to see the outside of the building.

The area was curiously semi-deserted. Only a few people were passing by on the commercial side of the nearby streets and I was actually alone as I crossed the road to get to the pavement leading to the Parliament entry grounds.

Open gardens with paved walkways make their way to the building and across the grounds. The yellow sandy soil contrasted with the greenery of the nearby shrubs and trees.

I looked around and no-one was about. Had I wandered into a security area as I was alone on the street. I saw no signs prohibiting where I was and there were no police or guards to be seen.

I hesitantly walked closer to the building expecting to hear a shout of warning or at least see a guard but nothing. The grounds were open and I wandered almost up to the open area of the entrance.

Still no security and nobody about. I took photos (couldn’t see any “no photos” signage) and carried on exploring.

It just seems that very few people are interested in getting up close to the building or admiring the perfectly maintained and quite creative gardens.

To each side of Parliament are two modern buildings around the same height as Parliament. One is Parliament’s Library and the other is the members offices building.

Various statues and bronze figured displays are situated near the building but what caught my eye was the total openness of the area and the lovely, but traditionally spartan gardens.

I wandered from one of the gardens to the next and got up close to see the immaculately maintained building and walked back to where I started.

If you turn with you back to the Parliament building there is a lovely view down the wide avenue with modern office type buildings on either side. To one side is a curious pedestal and column surmounted by figurines and a dove (a peace symbol).

Expecting to be felled by a sniper thinking I was a terrorist I looked around for guards or something to indicate restrictions …. but nothing. It’s just the way Seoul rocks around its Parliament building I guess and for once I was hoping to see other tourist to justify my presence … but no-one.

Finally, a family walked by on their way to the other side of the gardens. I had seen the first person in 10 mins – curiously I noted hardly any traffic passing by on the huge multi-lane highway.

Ok, the day was finished and I had time to make my way back to the Metro station and get back to the hotel via a different, easy route.

My time Seoul was coming to a close and I was due to fly back to London tomorrow after what had been a tremendous, tiring but exciting trip around Japan, Taiwan and SK (and almost NK!),

Time to take stock of this wondrous trip and relax at the hotel with a smug smile knowing I had enjoyed and been inspired by what I had seen over the last 2 weeks.

My thoughts on Seoul

I knew little about this city before I arrived and left knowing a lot.

I loved the Palaces – hope I didn’t bore you with the amount of them – but that is what Seoul has in abundance. I was surprised at the skyscraper element. I knew they were here but never expected them to be so big and so, so tall.

The DMZ had me worried that it would be an area of guards staring and watching you and checking what you did go close to the border …. but no, quite the opposite.

I never saw guards or military personnel. We went past a UN camp, but that was it. One place even had an amusement Park there and whilst we couldn’t take pics in the “invasion” tunnel I never thought I would actually get to be a few dozen metres from the real borderline.

The city is so modern, clean, well maintained, stylish and full of commerce. People are so polite and friendly. I know the Koreans may hate me for saying it but it felt like a little Japan with Chinese influences mixed together with modern Western inspired architecture.

I loved this city. Don’t know when I’ll ever get back but it will not be soon enough if I do.

Nov 2017

Below are some related posts on nearby places to visit. Click on the pic to view.