Malta – Valletta

Valletta, Malta

Take yourself back into the 16th Century, walk the streets of Valletta and imagine yourself on the set of Games of Thrones and draw your sword. Several scenes were filmed here as the city is steeped in historical and near-untouched ancient areas. Visit the old pro-cathedral, walk the dozens of pedestrianised streets, then look out over the water to the other shores of the city. Sit and take in the atmos at a Café on a beautiful Square …. go on, you know you want to!

Seriously, this is one of my favourite 3 places in the world and can’t wait to get back there. Miss it at your peril !

Valletta sits up there in my top three places in world that I love. Its uniqueness sets it apart from the other two, which happen to be Muscat in Oman, (see here for review) and Singapore, (see review here).

It was a find that I, at first, found strange, as in all the world, it was relatively on my doorstep (a few hours away by plane).  Compare it to my other two choices – ok I still have many more places to see – that are so much further afield and different, and you see my surprise.

It should not really be such an attraction for me, as Malta’s history is very much enrolled in Europe’s and thus influences should be more usual for me as a travelled European.

I’m thinking here of sights I may not always get to see on a daily basis in more far flung places – coral reefs, mud brick forts, vast sand dunes, herds of majestic wild animals etc etc that draw travellers to these countries in search of these unique features.

So how come it totally stands out for me.?

Why is Valletta such a great place to visit?

Hard to put a precise finger on it but I really felt the blend of Medieval Crusader fort, Italian church ornateness and Arabic styled gardens. Add in sea vistas from on high in the middle of the Med and the hugeness of the city fortified walls and you are getting the picture. Further more, the long and troubled history of a small island, so strategically placed, melt into one and gave it an atmosphere that I could breathe, feel and see, all in one.

Valletta is perfectly restored and maintained as an historical city. Rarely do you – in the centre at least – witness the intrusion of modern structures interrupting the “olde worlde” feel (the Parliament building being the only exception).

The lack of car traffic in the central area, helped by the narrowness of many side streets and the pedestrianisation of the popular shopping and transitory main roads, means walking is a real pleasure – and sometimes the only way to go in the city.

The sheer amount to see and visit here meant I left Valletta wanting to see more and to go outside Valletta to the other islands and towns. That would have to be another day!

How to get from Malta Airport to city centre.

My 3 day trip here really comprised of several long walks – yep, remember that I love my walking. You can follow my walk and leave it at any point to return to it another day, but I found this the easiest way to see the city and to make sure I got in the major sights.

Malta main airport – Lucqa airport – is Malta’s only international airport and is quite close Valletta. So, how to get from Malta Airport to the city centre? The two main ways to get to the city are by bus or taxi.

The X4 bus route stops at the arrivals terminal outside and leaves about every 20-30 mins from early morning to late eve so you will always be able to get there. At around 2 Euros it is cheap and modern but does involve a wait if you have the time and can take around 20-30 mins to get into town, depending on traffic. It drops off at the bus terminal and you will have to walk from there if your hotel is in the historic centre, or catch another bus/taxi if you are further out eg on the coast.

The other popular method is taxi either by pre-arranged pick up or grab one as you arrive outside the arrivals terminal for around 16 euros (fixed price as at 2017). I ordered a pre-booked shared shuttle taxi that I shared with 2 passengers who happened to be booked into the same cab from my flight as we were travelling to Sliema area – outside Valletta.

It was only 10 Euros so well worth it as the transfer of bus to bus/taxi would have been time consuming and I got taken to the hotel’s door. There are plenty of online pre-arranged taxi booking companies so try them for quotes and select a well promoted and reviewed one!

Where to stay in Valletta/Sliema

I stayed at the Sliema Marina hotel, (see details here), which I would recommend as an out-of-central-city hotel. It has direct access to the promenade and harbour front, for a 15 mins cheap water ferry ride directly into Valletta. The hotel had been renovated and the room was quite large with a full balcony with lounger, table and chair.

Wifi was great, sofa and bed very comfortable and as I had booked a superior room (with seperate sofa and TV area), I had a bay/Valletta skyline facing room – adorable or what! The promenade below was actually very quiet – noise wise, especially at night, despite it being a main road with bars and restaurants below. So despite my light sleeper status I was never disturbed.

The breakfast room is to die for, as it was up on the 5th floor top terrace with the most photogenic views across the bay to the spires and towers of Valletta opposite, across the water. Breakfast was great and plentiful and you even get a view from your table of the bay.

I wanted to stay here as I had seen that the views of Valletta from the promenade on the bay opposite the city, were marvellous. My fear was that being central in a pedestrian area of Valletta may be noisy at night.

I caught the frequent, modern sea ferry across the bay each day and back in the evening with no issues and what a wonderful way to arrive there each morning !

Sliema area visit.

So on to see the sights!

I did something unusual for me and instead of heading first into the major places in Valletta I decided to explore the pretty promenade headland area of Sliema. It’s a well-to-do suburb and I walked the sea/bay promenade on a gloriously sunny day up to the furthest point to take pics of the fortified walls and visible church spires of the city just across the bay.

The walk round the sea front was very easy, modern and obvious, taking you past several bars and restaurants – mental note to self in case if I needed them later in the eve. It ends in a walk around the headland overlooking the Med’ and from here you can see the yachts and small boats heading in and out of the bay – so picturesque!

The walk took me into what was clearly an up market modern residential area, complete with designer mall, top restaurants and past old buildings converted into luxury apartments. All very nice and glamorous and showing me the affluence of this suburb. Unlike the wonderful old town Valletta, that I had come here to see.

St Julian’s Bay area

I walked further and turned the Cape and strolled the long seafront promenade towards St Julian’s Bay. Nearby I saw the old Victorian bathing area that had been carved out of the platform rock, and felt jealous of the ownwers of the ultra-modern, balconied apartments that were facing the sea.

I noted the old St Julian’s Tower, built here as a defensive structure in 1658 set facing the modern promenade buildings.

I passed by through green gardens and vistas across the bay to big hotels and beaches, some not so picturesque. This was definitely the famous more up market tourist holiday area, not unpleasant, very well maintained and designed but not quite, again, what I was searching for here.

Streets and houses of Sliema.

I turned away from the sea and started to enter the narrower streets of Sliema itself. Clearly an upmarket residential area and full of 18th century villas, mini palaces and grand buildings that showed the area’s past wealth. The buildings were all in a beige cream coloured stone work and even the modern additions kept the faith of the stone colour and a nod to older designs – no glass and metal modernist apartments here!

The atmosphere reminded me of an Italian grand village, with its low-rise buildings, wooden shuttered windows, ornate facades and columned entrances. Many of them had small, palm-decked and green-foliaged front gardens.

I came across a pretty, irregular shaped square, of coloured shutters at the windows of houses here, with an old red British telephone box in middle. Clearly reminiscent of its British colonial past.

I was heading for a hotel I had read about and was originally going to stay in. It boasted a high vantage point overlooking Sliema, with views to the bay and Valletta from its roof-top terrace. I changed my mind as I decided to swop it for the view of the sea promenade, sea going yachts and ferry boats moored in front of my chosen hotel, with closer views of the Valletta skyline.

However, I did stop off for a coffee and a rest in its shady courtyard bar and took in the elegance of the Hotel Palace, read the evening restaurant menu and decided to return later that evening for a wonderful meal overlooking the lit-up skyline of Valletta and the Bay.

Having now completed my walk-about of Sliema I headed downhill towards the bay. Passing through the quiet narrow streets, I arrived at the ferry pick up point on the promenade near my hotel, for my trip across the bay to see Valletta itself.

The Sliema to Valletta harbour ferry.

The ferries are frequent, very modern, fast and everyone, including the locals were using them, pretty much as anyone would a bus. The fare is cheap at 2.80 Euros return and run from 7am till midnight in Summer every 30 mins. They cost a little bit more after 7pm and are less frequent in the late evening.. Ferries stop at 7pm in Winter.

You can buy a weekly, unlimited use card for 10 Euros, which means after your 4th return trip, ferry use is essentially free.

Even adding up the cost of my numerous ferry trips across the bay, the cost would come nowhere near the extra cost, but convenience, of staying in Valletta old town itself. This was confirmation indeed that I had saved quite a bit by opting for a less central hotel but with an easy and cheap ferry link directly to the walls of the city for my explorations.

The trip alone is worth it as you pass by the central Manoel Island in the Bay seeing the old military buildings of Fort Manoel peering over the waters edge. You really get the feel for any invader trying to gain entry to this fortified premonitory of a city, in years gone by. It certainly felt impregnable as you neared the height of the fortified city sea walls at the ferry stop in Valletta itself.

I loved my trip in each morning by ferry!

What to see in Valletta.

My first stop on my walk-about was to orientate myself from a central, well-known point. From here I could work out my directions and gain a mental picture of the layout of central Valletta.

After disembarking from the ferry, I made my way up the very wide and steep rampart that lead to the top of one part of the huge fortified sea walls.

Once at the top, Valletta suddenly opened out into the narrow lanes and pedestrianised streets that I would soon become used to and fall in love with. Very historical and atmospheric,

I walked along the roads with the cream stoned buildings rising several stories on either side of me, at times blocking out the sun due to their height and narrow width of the road.

I walked past small restaurants and bars, some small bijou hotels and B&Bs and several local shops. Eventually, I came to the area of a massive stone fortified wall that formed the building of the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.

Quite a mouthful but quite a long name for what is a massive building. It was clearly once part of the defences and I felt miniscule compared to its sheer size and imposing strength.

Valletta Opera House and the Parliament.

My walk continued along Ordnance Street till I arrived at the square hosting what must be the only modern building in the old city area of Valletta – the Parliament building, (info here). Its cream stone coloured walls blend in perfectly with the surrounding historical buildings and its design is not overtly modernist to detract from them either. The sculptured walls even give a nod to the older edifices nearby and only the rectangular glass windows and raised base detract from the ambiance of the square.

The original Opera House of 1866 stood here in all its neo classical columned glory. It suffered a catastrophic fire 6 years later and was rebuilt but on 7 April 1942 in WW2, German bombers destroyed most of the building and the rest was felled in safety several years later. In recent times the site was remodelled to form an open-air venue but the main entrance terrace and base areas are still visible in its present use.

Several columns were re-erected and today its appearance is more akin to a Roman ruin with a temporary open-air use. Click here for info on performances and opening times etc.

Whilst it is picturesque in a ruined historical treasure sort of way, to me it screams out needing a restoration rebuilding of the original impressive building – no doubt too costly to perform at present!

St Publius Church and The Mall area.

The next-door huge City Gate is a must-see that leads out across a defensive high bridge to the Triton Fountain. Nearby is the fabulously opulent Phoenicia Hotel (under renovations when I visited) and then it leads onwards to the cute and underused Mall Gardens and Independence Monument.

From The Mall I could see over to the imposing St Publius Church (closed on my visit), set in front of Publius Square. The area nearby is called The Granaries, as the stumps of the columns of the old granary building are still visible there.

Park benches in The Mall, under the shade of the trees, give a great opportunity to people watch and take a rest to take in the peace and beauty of this small area. A variety of trees, plants, shrubbery and several statues/monuments make it worth the time spent in getting to this more outlaying area of central Valletta.

Churches on Republic Street, Valletta.

Moving on back down Republic Street, one of the main shopping streets of Valletta but also an historical walkway, you come across two churches almost opposite each other. The elaborate exterior of St Barbara’s church will entice you in. For me however the Church of St Francis of Assisi was more interesting with its full-on opulent interior.

Further on down the street is the Museum of Archaeology, which I skipped as there was so much see on the outside today.

St John’s Co-Cathedral.

I continued down Republic Street and came to the side street and square that forms the entrance area to one of Valletta’s most important and famous buildings – the St John’s Co-Cathedral, (click here for info).

Due to renovations on its entrance the entry point was a side door today. The small charge and short queue were easy enough to tempt me in.

The ornate St. John’s Co-Cathedral was commissioned in 1572 by Jean de La Cassiere, the Grand Master of the Order of St John, an organisation I was to see much more of later. The interior, with every colour of marble, gold leaf, baroque excess, patterned flooring, highly decorated walls and ceilings and paintings and elaborate wall tombs, were at first, an assault on the eyes.

It was a bit overwhelming to take in so many designs and over the top décor but gradually as you move around the Cathedral your senses start to get accustomed to it.

To say wealth and show of affluence in tombs and eulogies is strong is an understatement and clearly this was an immensely important Cathedral in its day. It was originally the main church for the St John’s Order, and plainly decorated. However, in 1660 it went over-the-top, intricate Baroque in order to rival Rome in its opulence.

So, why is it called a “Co-Cathedral”? Well, after being taken away from the St John’s Order by the occupying French in 1798, it began to rival the official Cathedral of Malta in Mdina town in popularity.  Thus in 1820, the Bishop used it as a second Cathedral or “Co-Cathedral” in importance. There – history lesson over.

The pictures give you a sense of the grandeur and extreme decoration but seeing it in real life is a once in a lifetime wonder.

Cafes on Republic Square.

On leaving the Cathedral …. sorry … “Co-Cathedral” ….. you see the impressive classical façade of the Law Courts in front and further down Republic Street you arrive at Republic Square.

Here the regal statue of Queen Victoria stands in the square surrounded by affluent customers at the several stylish outdoor cafes facing the National Library and nearby Casino.

The surroundings here on a warm sunny day just tempt you take a rest, enjoy a drink or get an ice cream from the popular ice cream stand of the well-known Café on the square …. I did just that!

A busking clarinet player was playing classical arias and well known opera pieces. He was doing a great job at creating an elegant and relaxing venue to sit and enjoy the afternoon sun.

St George’s Square and Presidential Palace, Valletta.

So, onwards down the same street to arrive at yet another square – St George’s Square where a complex of buildings sits, housing the Grand Master Courtyard, Presidential Palace and State Armoury. All open at various points and times in a somewhat mish-mash of adjoining buildings full of atmosphere and opulence.

There is a sentry guard outside that has become a real photo hot=spot.

Once on the Square look up at the wall of the palace and you see two marble inscriptions from the UK and USA, both honouring the resilience and fortitude of the Maltese people during their struggle in WW2. The Military cross of St George, awarded in 1942 by King George VI of England to the people of Malta is also honoured on the Maltese flag itself.

St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral of the Church of England.

I walked from here through the side streets and headed towards the fortified walls on the bay side facing Sliema. From here you can see the spectacular views of the other side of the bay and the new construction of modern buildings at the headland.

I stopped at the St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral of the Church of England, built 1844 – well, being English I just had to! It is the only CofE church in Malta, (click here for details of opening etc). It has a 60-metre spire and I realised that this was the spire I could see so prominently from my hotel on the other side of the harbour. It sits next to Marsamxett Harbour for the ferry ride back and the spire is now a recognisable symbol for Valletta itself.

It has a long association with the military, especially representatives of the British forces defending Malta during WW2 and its many plaques and present-day display flags honour that association. Its 19th Century design and interior is somewhat plain but with perfect proportions and sits handsomely on Independence square with the grand monument of past executed patriots at its front.

St Elmo’s Fort.

Next follows a long walk alongside the huge fortified sea walls on St Elmo’s Bay up to the massive St Elmo sea fortress overlooking the headland and two bays either side with a view to the Mediterranean. This fortress is huge and takes time to wander around the sprawling mass of buildings. Some are elegantly restored, some are awaiting restoration and many are still used as warehouses for equipment etc.

In one part, it contains the National War Museum and interactive displays.

In other parts, it exhibits memorabilia of its history, with walls several metres thick that helped it defend itself against the heaviest of bombardments. There are gun emplacements, barracks, even a church to visit. The setup is definitely one that needed to be a self-sufficient, defensive, deterrent against attackers from the sea.

Rolling videos and displays and the opportunity to experience life as it was inside massive tunnels and barricades, shows how important this fortress was to the survival of Valletta.

Knights Hospitallers Building, Valletta.

From the fort, it is just a short walk to the building of the Knights Hospitallers or …… “Order of the Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem” – to give it its full official title!

It is a medieval Catholic Military Order, originally an organisation to help the poor and sick on Pilgrimages to Jerusalem. It then became a Military Order to protect the Holy Land. They had a huge presence in Valletta from 1530 to 1798.

This building was their biggest building at the time – a kind of barracks/hospital/armoury. The interiors of the Hospital are huge, if somewhat spartan, but gives an idea of how impregnable and massive the buildings and fortifications of the day were.

Did you know that Valletta gets its name from Jean Parisot de La Valette, one of the Grand Masters of the Order. He successfully fought off the biggest ever siege to Valletta, against overwhelming forces of the Ottomans.

He personally laid the stone on the first building that was planned to be the founding of the city. Honour indeed! Also, the St John’s Ambulance (in UK) –  a voluntary medical help group, has its origins in the Order!

Lower Barrakka Gardens.

Continue the walk along Mediterranean Street along the side of this building till you arrive at the Siege Bell War Memorial, a structure with columns, dome and a large hanging bell inside. It was built to commemorate the siege of Malta during WW2.

Along with the Siege Memorial next-door, sits below the Lower Barrakka Gardens, with stunning views across the Great Harbour to the fortified areas of Fort Angelo and Fort Ricasoli.

Here you can also see the other two “cities” across the bay and watch the mega yachts sailing into the harbour and often the sea cruise ships moored in the harbours and Marinas opposite.

The Gardens here are like an old Roman park with classically styled arches and walls. Here are porticoed small buildings and a glorious fountain and pool. The green shrubbery and palm trees, with statues and memorials, give shelter from the sun on a hot Summer’s day.

Benches are dotted around and many locals wander these gardens for the peace and quiet it gives, in the city centre setting.

Victoria Gate area.

Continue a long walk along the fortified sea walls here, past beautifully restored residential buildings with coloured shutters and a mish-mash of levels with covered balconies. Here are often some of the most desirable dwellings in which to reside in Valletta.

You can look down onto what was the busy wharf with its cream stoned, classically styled warehouses.

Walk further along the sea road and you will arrive at a small square with red shuttered quite tall residential building next to the stylish Grand Harbour Hotel. Look for the stairs going underground below you. You are actually standing on the top of Victoria Gate – an old Valetta city gate entrance. Go down the steps and out through the gate to get great views and photo opportunities of this building.

Nearby are yet more of the original wharf warehouses and buildings from years gone by, many now residential homes or workshops.

Upper Barrakka Gardens.

Now walk back up to the top again and carry on round the harbour walls to arrive at the Upper Barrakka Gardens. It’s some way from the Lower one earlier I know, so the name can be confusing. From this terraced bastion you get what must be the most panoramic and impressive view over the inlets of the complex of harbours on this side on the waterway.

You can see the fingers of land spreading out into the waterway, the harbours, medieval buildings on the opposite banks, boats and even the industrial cranes of the working commercial harbour.

Come here just before 12 noon every day as they set off the noon cannons in The Saluting Battery in a traditional show that brings in hundreds of viewers. The embankment below has an arrangement of cannons in gardens and the upper area overlooks this.

With a lovely open-air café, semi ruined walls with arches, statues and monuments, shrubbery, water pond and the classically styled Maltese Stock Exchange Building in the background, it has to be one of the most beautiful scenic gardens ever.

The Lascaris War Rooms that tell the story of Malta during WW2 are nearby

Auberge de Castille, Valletta.

From here walk out of the gardens and into Castille Square opposite. You will see the pretty Castille Hotel to one side and also the Auberge de Castille.

The huge Auberge building was originally built in 1570 to house the Knights of the St John Order from the Iberian Peninsula. It was remodelled to its present wonderful style in 1740 and has often been called “probably the finest building in Malta” – I would probably agree.

Its sheer size and ornateness is deserving of that name and it actually is now the Offices of The Prime Minister of Malta. If you get the chance, come back here at night as it is illuminated beautifully along with the square and central fountain.

To the left-hand side of the Auberge is an opening that leads to a small open air area, past the Post Office, with two churches almost opposite each other. The first one on the left, Our Lady Of Victories Chapel, is quite plain from the outside but decorative inside. It is remembered as the first building that was built when Valletta was established in the fortified area in 1565.

The one opposite is grander on the outside but plainer inside with a simplistic theme and design but still colourful. Walk further on and we are back at the Opera House near to where we started out.

I have written this review as a walk around town but it would be so easy to split this into several days and just recommence where you left off or take it in reverse, as you wish.

Valletta has to be in my top 3 places in the world I have visited that seriously enchanted me. I loved the ease of walking around the, quite often, pedestrianised areas of the city. I loved the Game of Thrones architectural and historical feel to the city. I loved its immersion into history as having the St John’s Order, immense fortified sea walls, beautifully ornate churches, Palaces and Auberges.

The incredible survival of this small island against the might of the attacking WW2 German forces is a story in itself. It is packed with history for such a small place and one that I would love to come back and see more of …….. one day!

Below is the beautiful sight of coloured cloud formations from the plane window as I flew back to London over Malta. It’s a captivating pic that just conveys to me the delight and magic of having visited Valletta.

March, 2017.