Tunisia – Carthage

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Cathage-Roman-Villa-Tunis-Tunisia

Carthage, Tunisia.

If ancient Roman ruins are not your thing then I guess you will give this section a pass. For me however they fascinate me (sad I know). The ruins of this once great city are extensive and most people even drive from individual excavation site to the next  … but I love walking and so did just that. Amphitheatres, bathhouses, temples, villas, theatres, forums, you name it they were here and in huge amounts. A few thousand year’s worth of history under my feet!

By the end of the day however, I was Roman ruins “saturated out ” but so glad to have seen them at last. The trip by train to see then from Tunis was a highlight as it trundled over the water causeway, with views out to sea, back to the city and even into local’s nearby houses and gardens.

Carthage, (meaning New City in the ancient Punic language), near Tunis, is one of those places in the world that has a long, long history and to skip it in a few photos would be so, so wrong, So a little background info is needed to understand why it is so important even though is has been reduced now to ruins and rubble in fields.

A little history on Carthage

It was founded by Queen Dido, a Phoenician, in 813 BC when she fled from Lebanon, (see UNESCO info link here). That makes some of the ruins I will see today about 2800 years old ! It grew and formed a huge trading empire and battled with the Greeks for 200 years from 560BC. It then battled with the Romans from 218BC to control the Mediterranean – remember Hannibal and his elephants crossing the Alps to attack them? (he was from Carthage). Eventually Carthage lost the wars and its empire in 146 BC to the Roman Empire and was totally destroyed and raised to the ground and left as fields.

The Romans under Julius Caesar then recolonised it and by 44 BC was the second biggest city in the Roman Empire with 500,000 inhabitants. It was taken over by the Vandals in 440 AD (who didn’t vandalise it! – ha-ha – but grew the city). Then taken over and expanded by the Byzantines in 533 AD, captured by the Muslims in 698 AD and it remained prosperous and expanded. Carthage was now replaced by Tunis, (see review of Tunis here) just down the road as a more modern setting and the city and country become a French protectorate in 1881.

Ok, history lesson over! So I am to see a lots of various ruins but predominantly Roman today.

How to get to Carthage from Tunis.

Well, Carthage is a massive archaeological site – not just a small city ruins but spread over about 12 square kilometres of area. Some has been excavated and restored, much is still underground and covered in earth and grass/flowers and some has apartment blocks and roads running through it.

It is so huge an area that it doesn’t have a fenced off area (apart from some big excavated buildings) and you can live in it and drive through it. Imagine an area about 6 km by 2km and that would be what it once covered.

It lies about 14 Km north east of Tunis City but in reality is an extension of the urban area with train, bus and car routes running through it. To get here you can use buses – never worked out how they ran or where from. By car – a good idea of you want to hire one for a couple of days to drive between areas on the site or by train and use leg power/taxi to do the short distances between sites. Get your hotel to recommend one or book up online beforehand (can be expensive for what it is but you usually get a guide with it).

I say walk because there are many normal roads running through the site and they all have decent pavements beside them but I am an avid walker so you may wish to use taxis sometimes. I took the train from Tunis Marine station at the end of Habib Bourguiba Avenue. There is a ticket office inside the small station and return tickets can be bought there .

It was about 30p for a 2nd class return or 60p for 1st Class return. Crazily cheap but to be honest I saw little difference between the carriage classes and there is no checking or monitoring so I felt anyone was sitting wherever they wanted. The train is dated and basic but the seats were ok and what do you want for 60p anyhow???

I got a seat near the window – the doors strangely are boarded over so you cant look out of them. I watched the world go by and the trip in itself is fascinating as it goes out from Tunis on a waterway causeway with views across the lake and into a small dockside and industrial area and back towards the city skyline. The lines meanders really close to the houses further out and across small level road crossings. It was a great insight into how people lived and worked around here as you are literally looking into gardens and windows as the train passed by.

Where to get off – well it depends where you want to start your walking trip. I got off at Gare Salammbo and walked the 15 mins to what is left of the ancient Punic Port.

What to see and do in Carthage

Not much to see nowadays but this port in its day was magnificent and I just had to see whatever I could …. basically nothing now apart from the unique ring shape it had and the outer harbour.

Sorry to bore non history seeking readers but that’s me! To see anything you have to go into the museum in the middle of the harbour ring where there are some ruins but it was not enough to get me in there so I passed. I walked back from hear towards the Gare Byrsa, turned onto La Goulette road and walked for 20 mins taking in this quieter area of Tunis with a few grander houses in the area till I reached Av de la Republique crossroads and turned right down this Avenue towards the sea.

There are a couple of Embassies down this road, heavily guarded and one even motioned that I had to walk in the middle of the street with the cars rather than the public pavement in a show of grandiose appropriation of public areas. At the end of the street is a view across the bay to the mountains on the the other side – unexpected as thought it would be beaches etc but quite a picturesque view.

Here is Quartier Magon, a small archaeological site but to be honest you can see most of it from outside so I didn’t go in as the site I was after was round the corner. I walked up past the Post Office and Police Station and at the end of the road to my left was the entrance to one of the biggest sites in Carthage – the Antonine baths, a UNESCO world heritage site, (click here to see info).

At the ticket office I was offered a combined ticket for 5 other sites in Carthage costing 12 dinar and was really glad they suggested it as I was going to the others anyway and buying the combined ticket saved me quite a bit.

Carthage – The Antonine Baths

The baths here are a 2nd Century Roman thermae complex. Now in ruins but with info boards at the viewing platform showing how it once looked and the floorplan. It was huge now so would have been quite a sight in its day!

I walked down the steps to the baths themselves are there are unmarked stairs to go down into the baths and wander around the massive walls, arches and remains.

You need a little imagination to envisage how it looked but when you see the size of the Gymnasium exercise area and the walls of the pools it brings home its size.

I did feel a little strange that I could walk up to these  ruins of nearly 2,ooo years and actually touch the walls. There were no stewards to stop anyone doing this or indeed damaging the ruins further

There is definitely a feeling as you explore that these were impressive buildings of teh time. The walls were tall and the rooms vast and would have been a splendid sight in its day.

I did get the impression that this what a bombed out village would feel like from a war as parts were still easily discernible as to what they were but others were completely destroyed and in rubble on the ground – all very interesting though!

I walked round taking pics and then retraced my steps and basically wandered the site to see the other outbuildings,

Walks through the site to other areas feels like you are walking through a park as much is grassed over and has trees growing and they have left areas undisturbed to reveal only the important finds.

A few minutes walk through the gardens you come across yet more ruins of small houses, ruins of a basilica with columns and walls and even some old cliff side buildings that looked more like caveman dwellings now. These are more basic foundations and small walls that although they wouldn’t give you a great impression of the buildings, unless you are an archaeologist, you get to see the floorplan and size of these structures.

Often mosaics were exposed on the ground and you can see them in situo still. One of the delights here was a small underground temple. You can almost miss it as it looks like the entrance to an underground bunker that you are not supposed to enter but a small sign gave it away and it is open to the public. Go down the steps and into a small cavern temple with a lovely mosaic floor and a few decorations …. gorgeous ….

It was quite dark and flash was needed to get a pic and even that was quite dim. Enchanting small space that gave an real feeling of solitude. I was alone in what was a quiet site today (was off season and a rainy-ish day ). I soaked up the atmosphere of this underground chamber of worship, the smallest I have ever seen.

From here my next site is about 10 mins walk or a quick taxi ride if you can find one in the quiet area. I walked up the road alongside the entrance /exit away from the sea and up to the crossroads. You then cross the road, go under the train bridge and take the first right onto Montee de l’Odeon.  Walk uphill past some wealthy looking owned houses, cross over the crossroads and go further up ……. there are no signs for the entrance!

You will see guards with guns who look at you which put me off as I thought I was near a military place, but by now I was recognising that every tourist site has armed guards. The entrance is also next to the Portuguese Embassy which may explain why there were  more guards than normal. My combo ticket got me in here and after the entrance it is a short walk to see the remains of the old Roman Villas section of Carthage.

Roman Villas

There are just small walls and columns at first but do not be put off as the further you walk in the more there is to see. On a raised area there is an almost complete villa with views over the area.

You can walk its small paved mosaic garden and view the outside colonnaded portico that runs along two sides of the building.

One of the restored areas housed hundreds of removed mosaics stacked against the wall as there are just too many to display adequately.

From here there is the walk to The Odeon (ruins of the Theatre ) but try as I might I could not find it as again no signage, I later looked on a more detailed map and saw it was through an open area that I thought was a waste field  blocked by trees! Here you are on what is probably one of the highest points in Carthage and gives some views across the neighbouring territory.

To one side you can glimpse the modern Mosque of Malek Ibn Anas, below are more villa ruins and to the other you can see across the flowering wild fields towards the Presidential Palace. You cannot go in but you can see guards across the way around to prevent access in and you can see just the roof of the building and the sea beyond.

Amphitheatre

Next stop was the big amphitheatre (Carthage has two) and it was a journey out of this site down the hill and turn right at the main road and follow. The entrance is like a grand avenue (armed guards again) with a large car park. Whilst it was good to see it, it has been restored so much that it doesn’t feel authentic anymore. Concerts and plays are performed here regularly so there is a modern stage and metal structures for speakers and TV . One part still has the original huge stone seat-steps. Good to see, as it is nearly 2000 years old, but the modern setting takes the edge off the ancient history it holds.

From here was another 20 mins walk or catch a taxi ….. I warn you I walk miles and miles every day and love the exercise and taking in everything around. You may be wanting to stop here and go home from exhaustion….but I continued. A walk out to the crossroads and up Rue Symphax here, past the ancient columns in a small park next door – you can see then from the road and by now I was a bit all roman-columned-out.

Walking through residential streets upwards in what is clearly a more upmarket area of town and down the other side. Turn right , then left up the hill, up to near the Hotel Didon and a right turn up the hill, Carry on past the Museum (closed down apparently) and you arrive at an old Cathedral.

Acropolium of Carthage

It was called Saint Louis Cathedral and built on the site of an old Punic Temple on Byrsa Hill, the tallest hill in Cartage. In its day was the most important Catholic church in all of Africa until the later Cathedral in the city took over. It is now called the Acropolium and used as a music and convention centre. The interior is still as a Cathedral with a big aisle, apse and altar but is converted to what is needed on the day.

Today an organic food and cosmetics convention was being held here! Free entry today and the chance to take pics of the wonderfully decorated interior in pastel shades, in a surreal landscape of commercial stalls. T

This place is not on the usual tourist trail and indeed several guide books miss it out completely but I wanted to see history and this building was certainly big and colourful enough to merit a visit, despite its lesser status today.

There is a small archaeological site next door and a nice café in the courtyard next door for a coffee or bite to eat.

Taxis are at the exit here if a concert or convention is on and I got the usual attention. They could not believe I was walking to the next site about 20 mins away and even though they kept temptingly lowering their initial offer price to take me there I persisted in my walk. One taxi driver even followed down 10 mins later to check and again offered to take me for an even lower price ! I walked on after declining politely.

Down the curvy road from here to a main road and use your MAPS.ME app or a physical map because here the small amphitheatre is not easily seen and is surrounded by trees and in a sunken area.

Small Amphitheatre

Entrance was included in my combi ticket and I walk around the arena and up the banks to get the feel of this place. Again semi-deserted which was great to get the pics but made me feel a bit lonely. You have to visualise again as in its day it would have had steeped high seating that would actually hold 35000 people and two Christian Martyrs were killed here who were eventually made into Saints.

I learned that most of the stone was pillaged to make other buildings after its demise. The foundations of the underground area are visible form the ground which you would not normally see if attending in Roman times but the small gateways into the arena from the walls were still there.

It needs a bit more clearing where trees and bushes have started to grow and it was not in the best of conserved states but the overall impression was atmospheric enough to imagine how it would have looked in its heyday.

One thing stood out here – a white marble column on a plinth that could not be Roman as was too new looking. It dominated the area at one end of the arena at I could not work out why it was there. I found out later that it was placed here by the Bishop of the area in 1881 and originally had a Cross on the top.

Amphitheatre-Colliseum-Carthage-Tunisia

I rested here and decided I had seen all the Roman ruins I wanted , happy at the days adventure but legs weary and fatigued. Should I catch a taxi from the nearby road or walk back to Byrsa station some 30 mins away …. I saw it as a challenge to say I have walk the length and breadth of Carthage. So determined to complete my uni que visit (in my eyes), I gritted my teeth and walked to the station.

It was an easy straight walk back so I could not get lost and interesting again to see life as it is lived in the suburbs. Many locals looked at me on the way as I guess they don’t get many walking tourists in this area but here I am . Got to the station and hopped back on my train to my hotel in Tunis, content and glad for the sit down for the next 20 mins.

There we are, one of my bucket list places that I have wanted to see all my life ticked off the list. Impressed by the size of the site, surprised to see more modern developments among it but content to know I have now seen where Hannibal came from!

March 2019.

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32 Comments

  1. Shireen 13/05/2021 at 16:42 - Reply

    Another detailed post with so much history. I cannot believe how cheap it was from Tunis to here. Great tip about seeing Quarteir Magon from the outside, I’ve found that the case with other places (it’s actually better from outside or a distance). The amphitheatre peaks my interest the most from your article, it looks so grand.

    • admin 13/05/2021 at 23:35 - Reply

      The amphitheatre is still used for concerts and events despite it being 2,000 years old – they built them well in those days! Thanks for the comments.

  2. Riana Ang-Canning 13/05/2021 at 19:04 - Reply

    WOW! Carthage would definitely be on my list for a visit to Tunisia. I love how intact the structures are and the detailing on the tile work is incredible. I love that small underground temple you found – so special!

    • admin 13/05/2021 at 23:37 - Reply

      I too was amazed at how fresh the tiling still looked. They had a huge room full of mosaics and it was like being in a warehouse of recently made ones. The temple was so atmospheric and I almost missed it as its not that well signposted.

  3. Renee 17/05/2021 at 09:09 - Reply

    I would definitely want to visit this if I ever travel to Tunisia. I too find it fascinating. The underground remains of the temple, the theatre, gymnasium, are all treasures. Imagine the stories they could tell.

    • admin 17/05/2021 at 17:29 - Reply

      I stood inside the gymnasium and tried to imagine the people there in the past – quite atmospheric. the Temple was a gem of an encounter – almost missed it!

  4. Emma 18/05/2021 at 03:52 - Reply

    I remember growing up my aunt always told me about her honeymoon in Tunisia and although I’ve never been yet, it sounds and looks incredible. I love learning about Roman history so Carthage would be the perfect place for me. I love seeing all the old ruins, although I can’t believe how many pretty mosaics there are, just stunning

    • admin 18/05/2021 at 12:25 - Reply

      The mosaics are in incredibly good shape, many still on the floor. There is even a mini-warehouse of them on site. They have been removed from floors/walls as a huge slab and just stacked against the walls for proplr to view. There are so many in almost pristine condition. These would feature as a major exhibit pieces in any major city museum but here there are just too many to count! thanks for teh comments.

  5. Gus F 20/05/2021 at 03:28 - Reply

    Who doesnt love ancient roman ruins! This looks like an awesome place to visit!

    • admin 20/05/2021 at 17:45 - Reply

      A lifetime’s ambition was accomplished when I saw these. They were outstanding, especially the virtually intact amphitheatre.

  6. JoJo Hall 22/05/2021 at 18:16 - Reply

    Those ancient ruins are amazing! I love seeing ruins and learning about the history behind these structures and civilizations. Would love to visit Carthage!

    • admin 23/05/2021 at 02:41 - Reply

      Tie it in with a trip to next-door Tunis and you’ll have a great time. I’m a bit of a history geek so adore seeing these places.

  7. Georgina 06/07/2021 at 12:25 - Reply

    You got me at “ancient Roman ruins” – what a delight it is for history lovers and I know I would absolutely love to visit Carthage now that I have read your post. Beautiful photos, especially of the ruins, Barry. I would love to explore the amphitheatre and St Louis Cathedral. Plus I love train travel and you have here, a perfect itinerary for me when I get to travel to Tunisia. Thank you so much for an awesome and complete guide.

    • admin 06/07/2021 at 15:29 - Reply

      Hi Georgina, Nice to hear from you again. Hope you are well. The train ride was an expereince – very, very basic but great fun with the views from the causeway and looking across fields and into houses as it trundled by. The ruins are a full day’s trip as they are extensive but so captivating.

  8. Laura 09/06/2023 at 13:08 - Reply

    I am a fan of ancient ruins. These look like a really nice place to visit. I’m a bit surprised at the lack of people but I guess it is not one of the most popular destinations. Great photos!

    • Barry 09/06/2023 at 13:21 - Reply

      I think it was off season and the grounds are so extensive that even with crowds it may not feel like a lot of people are there. If u love ruins, then this s the place for you.

  9. Lyn (aka Jazz) 08/09/2023 at 16:51 - Reply

    I really enjoyed this post. I am a history buff and really appreciated the background information. I had no idea that these ruins were so open — I have been to a few places like that and I always feel conflicted. It’s thrilling to be so close but I worry about the possible damage.

    I laughed at the driver following up after you refused a ride. That is a clever strategy that probably works more times than not! I have seen that look on a local’s face when I insist I’m fine walking! I look forward to wandering Carthage in the future. You’ve inspired me.

    Lyn | http://www.ramblynjazz.com

    • Barry 14/09/2023 at 15:54 - Reply

      Glad to here the post inspired you, that means a lot to me.
      Carthage was certainly an open site and to walk among the ruins gave it a different angle which I enjoyed.
      Taxis still give me that strange look of not understanding when I say I prefer to walk!

  10. Pam 10/09/2023 at 16:46 - Reply

    Such a beautiful place! I’d love to explore all the ruins and the amphitheater. I didn’t realize that Carthage was as old as it is. The Acropolium of Carthage looks stunning, I’m not sure how that is a hidden gem it’s stunning! The whole place is a wonderful place to visit for history lovers.

    • Barry 14/09/2023 at 15:55 - Reply

      Like you, I am a history buff, so revel in seeing ancient sites, especially one as well restored as this.
      It’s certainly a huge place but well worth giving over an entire day to explore it.

  11. Mitch 11/09/2023 at 08:47 - Reply

    We love ancient Roman ruins as well so Carthage looks to be a wonderful place to visit. I didn’t realise quite how large the city is! We’d be quite happy to walk between the sites. Love the baths and amphitheatre but also found some of the mosaics to be particularly beautiful, especially the bird designs.
    As ever, it was good to read about the history, especially the Dido and Hannibal connections, and also the practical information about visiting. Definitely adding Carthage on the list of places to see!

    • Barry 14/09/2023 at 15:57 - Reply

      Am so glad you liked the post as Carthage has been a place I have wanted to explore for decades. I’m so glad I did as it worth dedicating time to this site to get the benefits of a marvellous visit.

  12. Carolin 11/09/2023 at 10:32 - Reply

    Never heard of Carthage before, but your post has certainly captured my imagination and attention. In places it reminds me of Pompeii, could be a less crowded alternative, what do you think? This is a playground for everyone who loves ruins and appreciates a good mx of churches, amphitheatres and old city structures with probably still in tact supply systems. I can imagine you spend a couple of hours here and still haven’t seen all of it. Might be a case where you have to come back a second time to fully get the grasp of this space.

    Carolin | Solo Travel Story

    • Barry 14/09/2023 at 15:59 - Reply

      I thought the same- as in similar to the pictures I have seen of Pompeii. There is definitely a resemblance. The site is huge and very spread out so walking (or even a taxi) is worth it to see everything. For appreciators of real ancient ruins it’s a site not to miss

  13. James 13/09/2023 at 06:10 - Reply

    Really great piece here! I have heard of this city but never really learned much about it. I now see it is filled with history and my kind of history. My brain is enthralled by the fact that the city is 2800 years old. Truly historic! I love all the photos included also. Walking around these ruins is something I enjoy and would really consider a visit after reading this post.

    • Barry 23/09/2023 at 06:45 - Reply

      Carthage had long been on my list to see as I an a history/archaeology buff and the story of the city’s rise and fall had always interested me. Finally I got to see what it was all about and it didn’t disappoint!

  14. Jan 14/09/2023 at 14:12 - Reply

    I can see why Carthage still continue to captivate the curiosities of many historians and ordinary folks alike around the globe. Not only that this once cosmopitan hub and the wealthiest in the Mediterranean, the mere mention of Carthage evokes a kind of myth that inspire modern day travelers to visit Tunisia’s capital. There’s no better way to immerse in its mythical tale than walk amongst the ancient ruins which you indulgently did Barry 😉 Good on you #flyingbaguette

    Jan – https://flyingbaguette.com/

    • Barry 23/09/2023 at 06:48 - Reply

      It long captured my imagination and I’m so glad to have finally scratched that itch and explored this wonderful site.

  15. Melanie 17/09/2023 at 07:45 - Reply

    If I have my currency conversion correct, 12 dinar seems like an awesome deal for the number of historic sites. I’m a history fan like you, so this place (and your historical info here) definitely interest me. I think it’s incredible to see some ruins that are thousands of years old—we humans have created some beautiful things! I’d really enjoy wandering the big amphitheatre and baths and imagining life 2000 years ago. And those mosaic tiles really stand out, they’re gorgeous. Amazing that there was so few people during your visit!

    • Barry 23/09/2023 at 06:29 - Reply

      Carthage was a wonderous visit and so easy to do by public transport too. You even get the fabulous views as you traverse the causeway too.
      I’m also a great ruins person. I love seeing how people built in the past and the concepts they used to create some beautiful environments

  16. Angela 21/09/2023 at 10:56 - Reply

    It’s been a lifetime since I visited Carthage 🙂 I remember that on the way there we had a car accident with a bus and I almost got fined for taking pictures of the presidential mosque. When I got to the site, I was exhausted ahahah
    Carthage is a magnificent symbol of the Roman empire and is in a very good state of repair. It’s well worth exploring the archaeological site calmly and seeing everything carefully!

    • Barry 23/09/2023 at 06:18 - Reply

      Well you certainly had an adventure before you even arrived at the site!
      I was surprised at the size of the site , although it was fairly easy to get around it.

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